Godfather420
Well-Known Member
Still working on a water-cooled production line?
Still trying to get it right first.Still working on a water-cooled production line?
ill loan a li-corI'd need a good PAR meter but I'd love to run that test.
nothing needs water cooling lololQuantum boards have their own thread in the vertical section, also doing very well. They don't need water cooling, however.
Hmmmmmm.....Actually yes, lots of things need water-cooling... in fact. how much water did you just drink while shoveling that snow off you driveway? Yes, watercooling.... And how bout that car you're digging out of the snow? Unless its a VW or porsche, most likely it's water cooled as well... ; )ill loan a li-cor
nothing needs water cooling lolol
Hear ya there, well stay tuned. I'm going balls deep in this.Still trying to get it right first.
So what cobs you running? If i remember correctly it was 3590's ?Very impressive work, lots of sexy machined bits!
My water cooled modules are made from 2"x4"x3/16" thick aluminum bar stock, nothing custom about it. Then cut 2" L brackets into 4" lengths and welded them to the ends, tapped for 1/2" NPT and done. All the electronics go on the outside. Each module has 4 chips at 54W each.
With this approach, I was able to minimize cost across a sizeable array.
I hate you. JKYou see, in this system my light is the air handler. They're soul purpose is to adjust via arduinio control to regulate canopy temp
Done. Let's do this asap before I reconfigure my setup and it becomes much harder to do.ill loan a li-cor
nothing needs water cooling lolol
Cree CXB3590 3500K 80 CRI CD bin 72V, four to a Meanwell HLG-185H-C700B driver with the dimming leads capped so it pulls 8% over max, for a total of 54W per chip x 4 chips = 216W, driver adds the difference to get a Kill-a-Watt verified 225W from the wall. King Brite glass 80 degree lenses round out the optics package.So what cobs you running? If i remember correctly it was 3590's ?
For me the decision was easy I have 96 sq feet of flowering canopy and if i choose the 1212 I would need 71 of the 1212 cobs @1.4A to equal 48 of the 1818 @ 1.4Aor maybe the cxb's....... and then there are the cheap 1212's what will i ever do.
Nice use of space on that driver.Cree CXB3590 3500K 80 CRI CD bin 72V, four to a Meanwell HLG-185H-C700B driver with the dimming leads capped so it pulls 8% over max, for a total of 54W per chip x 4 chips = 216W, driver adds the difference to get a Kill-a-Watt verified 225W from the wall. King Brite glass 80 degree lenses round out the optics package.
I cribbed the combo from right here on RIU.Nice use of space on that driver.
So I guess I'm kinda going at this backwards then. I started with what layout I want 3x3 cob. Then I broke down the power from the wall I wanted use. Max 650w. Then i tried to make it as efficient and moderately priced from the calculators.For me the decision was easy I have 96 sq feet of flowering canopy and if i choose the 1212 I would need 71 of the 1212 cobs @1.4A to equal 48 of the 1818 @ 1.4A
so 1212= $923
1818=$1056
Ok $125 difference so far
Drivers I wanted built in software dimming. so that leaves you with the elg drivers right now. Soon the hlg will be available with built in software dimming.
so 1212 uses 36v I would do elg-240-36-d2 you would need approx 18 drivers drivers but the best efficiency is below 50W max amperage is 2.7A
The 1818 uses 54v and need 16 drivers best efficiency is below 150w max amperage is 4.1A
so the difference would be $25 paying $50 a driver. for me it would come down to less drilling and screwing in heat sinks mounting cobs and wiring. With the driver I listed it puts out 4.45A so its easy math figuring out how many per driver yes its wired in parallel so if you lose a cob the other 2 are still fine. this is the main reason I switched from 2.1A to 1.4A by just adding 3 cobs per driver instead of 2 I didnt want anything to happen if a cob went down and it got the full 4.45A would it still run sure but I didnt want to run at full power
As for dimming, definitely be running type b's. Just finished up our custom pcb that will control 4 channels of drivers and 2 fans.Cree CXB3590 3500K 80 CRI CD bin 72V, four to a Meanwell HLG-185H-C700B driver with the dimming leads capped so it pulls 8% over max, for a total of 54W per chip x 4 chips = 216W, driver adds the difference to get a Kill-a-Watt verified 225W from the wall. King Brite glass 80 degree lenses round out the optics package.
1818 3000K80Min 108 COBS @1100 mA ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINKFor me the decision was easy I have 96 sq feet of flowering canopy and if i choose the 1212 I would need 71 of the 1212 cobs @1.4A to equal 48 of the 1818 @ 1.4A
so 1212= $923
1818=$1056
Ok $125 difference so far
Drivers I wanted built in software dimming. so that leaves you with the elg drivers right now. Soon the hlg will be available with built in software dimming.
so 1212 uses 36v I would do elg-240-36-d2 you would need approx 18 drivers drivers but the best efficiency is below 50W max amperage is 2.7A
The 1818 uses 54v and need 16 drivers best efficiency is below 150w max amperage is 4.1A
so the difference would be $25 paying $50 a driver. for me it would come down to less drilling and screwing in heat sinks mounting cobs and wiring. With the driver I listed it puts out 4.45A so its easy math figuring out how many per driver yes its wired in parallel so if you lose a cob the other 2 are still fine. this is the main reason I switched from 2.1A to 1.4A by just adding 3 cobs per driver instead of 2 I didnt want anything to happen if a cob went down and it got the full 4.45A would it still run sure but I didnt want to run at full power