Watercooled Smart IC COB LED Build

mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
what percentage of the chip's output was light before it hit something
Click to expand...


:peace:(: After experience of Cree following points in particular affect the lumen maintenance:

  • the silicone that serves as the lens of the LED lamp
  • the LED chip materials
  • the manufacturing process
  • the phosphor used and the technique by which this material is applied
To take into account is further characterized in that each component of an LED lamp responds differently to operating conditions (flow rate, temperature). This makes the power loss at each component in several problems. One example is the silicone material that comes as a casting over the LED chip used. The LED industry is using basically a polyorganosiloxane (siloxane) for high-power LEDs. Depending on the chemical composition of siloxanes react differently to temperature: At higher values, the transparency of the material decreases. This reduces the light output of the LED lamp.

http://www.burosch.de/technik/804-verschiebung-des-farbspektrums-der-led.html
yes there is an english version

---> ( this would be a good reason to use a watercooled lens like this...

to bring temp. of the siloxanes down close to watertemp.)

So the problem of light loss starts inside the chip.
But let`s assume 100% light after trespassing the layer of the chip.

If now we use a lense, we have the same issue.
Transmittance of glas or pmma is about 92-93% .
The light loss is not so high inside the transparent lens, but crossing different materials
the light is reflected or broken at a certain degree.
Air ---> pmma, glas = 4% loss // pmma, glas ---> air = 4% loss
The lens also will get hot.

Now i have no instruments to measure blue light transmittance through water and latex,
but my eyes estimate not lower than 85%, because i was sitting in a dark room with the blue Cree Xlamp chip as the only light source.
S6002034.JPG

i measured the heat of CREE Xlamp royal blue XT-E @ 500mA with 3,08 V for ten minutes
and i received 1,3W of heat power. That means ~ 80% heat power
from input If*Vf = 1,54W.

Blue light passes much better through water than red light.

Even if 15-40% of the light energy would be lost in the layers of water and latex and get converted into heat -
wouldn`t explain 80% heat energy in total - as in a coolmac led system you can store ~ 60%
of total input as heat energy if you tap it only from the backside of the chip and let the light stream free to the room.

Able to tap ~60% of the electric. power as heat( only from the bottom of a chip platine means -
there are left ~40% on the front side as light + heat.

I split it up in ~15-20% heat --- and ~20-25% light .

I estimate, that heat resistance through the upper silikon layer is 4 times higher than
heat resistance through the backside aluminium chip platine.

To estimate !!! what percentage of the chip's total output was light before it hit the condom...
i still pretend - it was ~25% than it will lose 15% of the light =(3,75%) which i have to add to my heat output.
As long as i find the converted light back in my heatexchanger - it`s not so bad.
I`m shure the energy efficiency of led light with a watercooled led lens would rise ~10%.
and light heat compliance could reach up to 95% like power heat compliance does since years.

:eyesmoke:
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
It explains how efficiency should be calculated. Makes sense it's too much for you to understand 4 lines of text.

But talk about uninformative shit. Come on man, almost half the posts on this forum are yours and none of those have any useful information in them at all, plus a "wall of text" useless footer. It's just you fishing/fisting for likes all the time.

Anyway, you two bulshitting losers have fun with your bro-fest and "bro-science". If calculating 100% - 50% is already too difficult then it's a lost cause I'm afraid.
Click to expand...
My work and its results are also all over this board.

Funny how I haven't seen any actual work from you.

That speaks much louder than all your whining.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
:peace:(: After experience of Cree following points in particular affect the lumen maintenance:

  • the silicone that serves as the lens of the LED lamp
  • the LED chip materials
  • the manufacturing process
  • the phosphor used and the technique by which this material is applied
To take into account is further characterized in that each component of an LED lamp responds differently to operating conditions (flow rate, temperature). This makes the power loss at each component in several problems. One example is the silicone material that comes as a casting over the LED chip used. The LED industry is using basically a polyorganosiloxane (siloxane) for high-power LEDs. Depending on the chemical composition of siloxanes react differently to temperature: At higher values, the transparency of the material decreases. This reduces the light output of the LED lamp.

http://www.burosch.de/technik/804-verschiebung-des-farbspektrums-der-led.html
yes there is an english version

---> ( this would be a good reason to use a watercooled lens like this...

to bring temp. of the siloxanes down close to watertemp.)

So the problem of light loss starts inside the chip.
But let`s assume 100% light after trespassing the layer of the chip.

If now we use a lense, we have the same issue.
Transmittance of glas or pmma is about 92-93% .
The light loss is not so high inside the transparent lens, but crossing different materials
the light is reflected or broken at a certain degree.
Air ---> pmma, glas = 4% loss // pmma, glas ---> air = 4% loss
The lens also will get hot.

Now i have no instruments to measure blue light transmittance through water and latex,
but my eyes estimate not lower than 85%, because i was sitting in a dark room with the blue Cree Xlamp chip as the only light source.
View attachment 4000932

i measured the heat of CREE Xlamp royal blue XT-E @ 500mA with 3,08 V for ten minutes
and i received 1,3W of heat power. That means ~ 80% heat power
from input If*Vf = 1,54W.

Blue light passes much better through water than red light.

Even if 15-40% of the light energy would be lost in the layers of water and latex and get converted into heat -
wouldn`t explain 80% heat energy in total - as in a coolmac led system you can store ~ 60%
of total input as heat energy if you tap it only from the backside of the chip and let the light stream free to the room.

Able to tap ~60% of the electric. power as heat( only from the bottom of a chip platine means -
there are left ~40% on the front side as light + heat.

I split it up in ~15-20% heat --- and ~20-25% light .

I estimate, that heat resistance through the upper silikon layer is 4 times higher than
heat resistance through the backside aluminium chip platine.

To estimate !!! what percentage of the chip's total output was light before it hit the condom...
i still pretend - it was ~25% than it will lose 15% of the light =(3,75%) which i have to add to my heat output.
As long as i find the converted light back in my heatexchanger - it`s not so bad.
I`m shure the energy efficiency of led light with a watercooled led lens would rise ~10%.
and light heat compliance could reach up to 95% like power heat compliance does since years.

:eyesmoke:
Click to expand...
Not so bad, indeed.

So what do you plan to do with all the heat you're carrying out of the room?
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
So what do you plan to do with all the heat you're carrying out of the room?
Click to expand...
Most important is to adjust the dimension of your watercooled light heat cogeneration to your needs.

In my case it`s a ~325W lamp with ~180W of heat production.
With an average use of 15h daily in a 1,5m² growroom I can harvest ~80L of hot water / day
and more than 1kg of willyweed during the year.

Next step for me is without doubt the instalation of 3-4m² of pv panels to feed my lamp.
First thing i´ll try out is to watercool the pv panels with the same system of rectangular
aluminium tubes, because hybrid pv panels are expensive and as you know such a system
can also be used as radiators during the night - it may serve me.

Technically it would be easy and cheap to distribute hot water to my neighbors - as we use the same hot water pipes.

Specially for pasiv houses this would be a basic combination to get independent ( @Ken Beck ).
With pv panels and/or windpower and (vertical) growing with watercooled led light - we are able to grow (food and more) - to have hot water and heating - and mobility with E-cars or -bikes.

..and coming back to the dimensions - I calculate only a max. ~2500 US$ of investment
for 1000KWp pv complete kit and 500W watercooled lamp power - doing all work and installation by myself.
Enough heat, hot water and electricity for 2 persons in a 75m² flat.
In the moment I pay ~185US$ / month for that bill.:wall::o
 
Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
mahiluana said:
:peace:

...is a coolmac-system. :fire:

to put your heat into a heatexchanger helps you really to save oil or gas and money.

Aircooled led light is ~25% energy efficient - my coolmac-system in the moment ~85%.

Soon I will show you ~95% and the lamp will not need any aluminium or metal heatsink.

View attachment 3970034
Click to expand...
Hold on i got a PC radiator fan cooling unit with no heat sinks at this time where in the hell did you find the system it so that's a system for sale and you place your own lights on at correct can you send me more information where I could purchase this system and find out more about it I understand cops don't come with it and it's water e cold
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
Growcob5 said:
so that's a system for sale
Click to expand...
:bigjoint: light heat compliance :idea::fire: is the future :eyesmoke: ...may be

I sell this water-cooled LED light as a kit with all components included (chips, drivers, aluminum parts, plugs, hoses, pump and hanging kit).
The kit comes pre-assembled and tested.
The client only needs to connect the drivers' inline cables to the connector (blue cable to blue cable - brown to brown) and to solder the output cable to the chips.
It`s not !!! plug and play and you have to fill the lamp with water.


The customer can choose quantity and type of chips and driver - lamp size and (real) power.

Then I negotiate a price and delivery date with the customer and ask for min. 30% before the start.

You can place the order online, by e-mail or phone and make payments via PAYPAL or bank account.

This lamp system is manufactured to connect with heat exchangers using the hot water in your daily consumption.

You can use ~ 60% of your electr. Input, as heat recovery.
Thus, the size of the heat exchanger and the lamp power have to be adjusted. (300W -> 80L, 1500W -> 400L, ...)

more info:

http://www.lumen-laden.de/products/coolmac-300-w-wunschspektrum-wassergekuhlte-led-lampe-6-x-50w-cob/
 
N

NewBKind

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
I don't think I could bear to leave equipment like that behind...
Click to expand...
Bro wtf I'd kill for that equipment. For years now ive performed smt solderinf with only tweezers, lead free paste and very very hot air soldering pencil. I never even use stencils to lay the paste but never have bridges a copper braid can't handle. Anyhow I never did LEDS, mostly hard drive bios chips, mobile device charging ports and lcd flex connectors. Good moneybin that field man it's like 99% profit after initial roi.

What's the old address I'll go get that robot and smt convection oven right now haha
 
K

Ken Beck

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
Most important is to adjust the dimension of your watercooled light heat cogeneration to your needs.

In my case it`s a ~325W lamp with ~180W of heat production.
With an average use of 15h daily in a 1,5m² growroom I can harvest ~80L of hot water / day
and more than 1kg of willyweed during the year.

Next step for me is without doubt the instalation of 3-4m² of pv panels to feed my lamp.
First thing i´ll try out is to watercool the pv panels with the same system of rectangular
aluminium tubes, because hybrid pv panels are expensive and as you know such a system
can also be used as radiators during the night - it may serve me.

Technically it would be easy and cheap to distribute hot water to my neighbors - as we use the same hot water pipes.

Specially for pasiv houses this would be a basic combination to get independent ( @Ken Beck ).
With pv panels and/or windpower and (vertical) growing with watercooled led light - we are able to grow (food and more) - to have hot water and heating - and mobility with E-cars or -bikes.

..and coming back to the dimensions - I calculate only a max. ~2500 US$ of investment
for 1000KWp pv complete kit and 500W watercooled lamp power - doing all work and installation by myself.
Enough heat, hot water and electricity for 2 persons in a 75m² flat.
In the moment I pay ~185US$ / month for that bill.:wall::o
Click to expand...
You mean 1000w of solar panels right? Btw, if you are getting solar panels, get them from sun electronics. They are the cheapest for solar panels you can get. Usually way less than $0.30/watt. Will the system be just dc to feed the leds with a battery buffer or will you use a grid tie inverter for net metering? All hard choices because even if you acquired 36v solar panels, you still will need a buck/boost converter to throttle the power into the lights which only saves some power but wont let you have much else use for the excess power you may have. Either way you are probably looking at doing a grid tie inverter anyways. Btw, there are some really cheap grid tie inverters that work great especially for only 1000w of solar. Your total costs should be way less than $2500 for all of that including the watercooled lighting.
 
K

Ken Beck

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
It`s much easier with a grid tie inverter - but I have to check the legal situation here in fucking-
over-regulated Germany and then find out if my electric meter is able to run vice versa :confused:
Click to expand...
Its the same in the usa, regulators are trying to get rid of net metering like it somehow hurts them when in actuality, it makes the grid MUCH more reliable and stable. The more people feeding in with solar, the less their grid costs to operate as it evens out the power load because your loads are offset to early morning and late afternoon when power usage on the grid is much less. Just people wanting to secure their dominance over the average person through bs laws that serve nobody but themselves.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Ken Beck said:
Its the same in the usa, regulators are trying to get rid of net metering like it somehow hurts them when in actuality, it makes the grid MUCH more reliable and stable. The more people feeding in with solar, the less their grid costs to operate as it evens out the power load because your loads are offset to early morning and late afternoon when power usage on the grid is much less. Just people wanting to secure their dominance over the average person through bs laws that serve nobody but themselves.
Click to expand...
Exactly this. Yet more evidence of how allowing corporations to influence politics fucks things up for everyone.
 
Led_uk_research

Led_uk_research

New Member
My first time on this site and found exactly what I have been searching for. I came across this 2014 article, I have used 4 X 50 watt ones and had great results, I have used individual 12 volt DC 60 mm fans, they seem to work just fine, on a 12x12 3mm aluminium sheet, pulls about 206 watts at the socket, allowing for 5-6% AC conversion seems spot on. I will post the link when I meet the requirements. ;)
 
Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
pleeezzz sub an like pleezz grows love to u and if u need any help i dont no as much as geen jeen but i made my on led light cheeps as i can whith name parts
 
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