You got it going on.a mini rep of how I run my drip systems
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each halo has its own ball valve
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and at the pump I run a check valve in line
that should do the trickYou got it going on.
As a quick fix I've simply drilled a small hole at the highest point of the hose, popped in a 1/4" barbed elbow to some 1/4" hose running back into the res but above the water line. When the pump is running some water pressure will be lost through this new line as it runs back into the res, but when not pumping the same 1/4" hose will pull air and stop any siphoning.
Thats the plan anyway. Will have to see tmrw at lights on for the first feed.
If it doesn't work then i'll grab those air check valves instead.
Pic in the dark:
*the gunky stuff is some glue around the hole to avoid leaks.
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Do you bring your Scrogg up with your canopy? I ask because they are hanging.Fucking around with a panoramic pic of the veg room/nursery. Everyone's happy in here today.
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Veg is pretty full right now, with Larry / Gorilla Glue / Blackjack clones packed in.
I'm gonna have to cull soon or I might have problems.
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Flower is jamming along: on the left is Blackjack (front) and Larry at the back - neither have been scrogged which i'm now regretting - and on the right is Gorilla Glue (front) with 24K Gold at the back.
19 plants total in here. All from seed.
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24K buds, middle of week 6 on an 8 week strain.
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I had expected them to be fuller at this point, so i've hit them with a PK boost today (H&G's Shooting Powder - free sample so why not).
These guys are budding all the way down the stems which is nice. Medium frosty but lovely scent of cheap Grapefruit soda.
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Gorilla Glue flowers, also week 6 (9/10 weeker) and expecting them to put on weight in the next couple of weeks. Hit these with Botanicare's Hydroplex this week (also free sample), just to get it off my shelf.
Famous for throwing out serious resin, these GG's have been sticky since week 2, and those lower branch flowers are particularly trichomerously. Flowers aren't stacking down the branch quite as well, though.
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Larry OG, week 4 of 10. Stretched well into week 3 which had me worried as lights are cranked as high as they will go (about 3' off the canopy now). Tallest tops at 5ft look slightly heat stressed but I ain't laying eggs over it. Moved one from the back as she was starting to get crowded out. Obviously the overlapping light footprint from other tables makes the inside corners bloom best.
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A view back across the flower room, cos its getting silly jungle in there now. I want a bigger room already.
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I did through the stretch. No need after they stopped. Mostly it was to keep the lower area free from any further build and to buy myself more room to work. It has proved to be a smart decision: it's real tight down there when pruning / pinching popcorn / top feeding.Do you bring your Scrogg up with your canopy? I ask because they are hanging.
Nice one of the cooler ideas I've seen and will probably probably "adopt".I did through the stretch. No need after they stopped. Mostly it was to keep the lower area free from any further build and to buy myself more room to work. It has proved to be a smart decision: it's real tight down there when pruning / pinching popcorn / top feeding.
The chain gives it a decent weight so plants don't push it up. Also the string is sewed through drilled holes in the PVC pipe which also acts as a manifold for delivering CO2 as I pump it right through. CO2 straight to the leaves before saturating the room.Nice one of the cooler ideas I've seen and will probably probably "adopt".
Fuck. Nice work! Don't be afraid of a lil extra sulphur, lots of people think it helps build terpenes.Dry salts arrived yesterday and I spent the day knocking up and bottling some stock solutions.
I've got myself all fascinated by nute profiles over on icmag (spurr + dizzlekush) and had wanted to aim for these as best as possible, even though working with a mixed fert like the 5-11-26 limits this somewhat.
Consider this a work in progress.
There's enough salts here for hella growing, I think i'm good for a long while yet, and all those other expensive bottles are resigned to the top shelf (mostly samples, so whatever).
On the floor you can see my stock solutions. Building off my base of 5-11-26 + calnit I tailored the other solutions to reach target ppm's as best I could (working in ppm's @ .500 scale gave me that extra bit of detail in low concentrations, but back to EC for final res checks).
It was essential to hit these ppm's so that my application rates per gallon would be accurate and ergo maximizing benefit to the plants.
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I know some of you veterans are gonna tell me to KISS but i'm working hard towards dialing this room in perfect, and to that end every little detail is significant. Everything can be improved, all the time, and i'm learning so much as I go.
* * * *
STOCK SOLUTIONS
This might be TL;DR but i'm putting it here in case its useful to anyone, ever. It wasn't a simple task for me to calculate these, but after testing today I can tell you they are all accurate.
I hear apps like Hydrobuddy make this work much easier, but there's no Mac release so i'm stuck with spreadsheets and calculator and now a headache.
**Solutions are 1 quart only to avoid making more than I could use in a week or so. Warm water was used for improved solubility. I have not tested max solubility for any of these. Fert brands included where relevant, and also application rates with final ppm's**
Here's the ppm breakdown for major elements at non-concentrated application rates. Target ppm's in the grey box, totals after application in blue.
- PETERS 5-11-26: 220grams per quart = 10ml/gal for 330ppm
- YARA CAL-NIT 15.5-0-0 (Ca 18%): 145g/qt = 10ml/gal for 270ppm
- AGSIL 16H POTASSIUM SILICATE: 140g/qt = 2ml/gal for 50ppm of silicon
- EPSOM / MAGNESIUM SULFATE: 158g/qt = 5ml/gal for 30ppm Mg
- AMMONIUM SULFATE: 118g/qt = 2ml/gal for 30ppm
- MONO AMMONIUM PHOSPHATE: 118g/qt = 4ml/gal for 50ppm
- FULVIC ACID 69%: 184.5g/qt for 2ml/gal
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Its a way off perfect but hopefully not a bad start to optimum nutrition.
I am trying to understand more about ratios, specifically between K, Mg and Ca:
Also ratios of nitrates to ammoniacal N, with 4:1 apparently being good for pH stability and 10 or even 20:1 being optimal. The above ranges from 12:1 in veg and finishing at 4.8:1, so perhaps can be improved with alternative N sources.
- The above is Ca 3:1 Mg
- K 4.4:1 Mg
Possibly will need to watch that high K as i'm in coco, and would like another P source for late flower to avoid bumping the sulfur any further with M.A.P and epsom combo.
Reducing Ca in late flower may be in response to coco's ability to hold on to it over time, but I might be thinking it too hard now so i'm gonna stop here.
Comments welcome, including telling me i've gone completely off the deep end if you like.
Yeah I think i'm already high in sulfur, but i'm not worried.Fuck. Nice work! Don't be afraid of a lil extra sulphur, lots of people think it helps build terpenes.
what are you using the MAP and AS for?
looks good but I am not sure about those 2 as I dont see a need for them .....but that is just me
as the Peters and Calnit does the job
adding the Fulvic will boost uptake and of course Mag will boost flavor and terps and robust flower sites
but I dont see the need for the other 2
everything is lookin good so far......looks like you are balls deep in the thick of it
I use Yara Liva Brand calcium nitrate, they put a small amount of ammonia based nitrate in their formula.Yeah I think i'm already high in sulfur, but i'm not worried.
5-11-26 + canit is a good base and i'm interested in tweaks.
AS for adjusted NO3:NH4 ratio, as ammoniacal N (none in Peters) is known to aid P uptake, helps with flower initiation and is generally good for plants sensitive to Ca def (nitrates more efficient and better for growth, bulking, K/Mg/Ca cations etc). MAP for the extra P / bloom booster. Sulfur for flavor / terpenes and my research tells me they can tolerate a lot.
Either way these additions are a very small part of the overall nute profile and I will be trialling both with and without.
MAP = mono ammonium phosphateI imagine that Ammonium XXX will deliver XXX + plenty of N
Yara Liva is meant for hydroponics.I have read that ammoniacal nitrogen can reek havok in hydroponics setup
it is meant for soil application
usually if you look at hydro nutrient percentages ammoniacal nitrogen is sitting @ .08% or something along those lines
if you look @ soil application
it is much higher as is 3-4% along with urea
and small amounts of nitrate
which is calcium "Nitrate".....not ammoniacal nitrogenYara Liva is meant for hydroponics.
which is calcium "Nitrate".....not ammoniacal nitrogen
I was refering to the ammoniacal that is being used in the recipe above
which I wouldnt recommend....the reason why I questioned the decision to use it.....along with MAP when Jacks is already plenty for cannabis
IMO using Jacks is a good way to run a really great garden while not having to really mix your own salts
or you can just order a base pack of salts and use a nutrient calc to weigh out each salt individually in order to taylor your feed
but IMO mixing a well blended mix with an abundants of P/K and dumping more P/K in coco is counter productive
can cause toxicity
so is adding Ammoniacal Nitrogen which can cause ph imbalance in hydroponic application and is not easily absorbed as well there are peer reviewed university studies which show it is counter productive in hydroponic application
but I am not here to talk down or insight negativity.....just questioned and gave my opinion based on research