Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
My last harvest tastes greatThis temperature sensitivity and the fact I couldn't get good flavor is why i quit hydro, definitely would struggle going back now.
My last harvest tastes greatThis temperature sensitivity and the fact I couldn't get good flavor is why i quit hydro, definitely would struggle going back now.
Can you show pics of down below?yes ..so you wanna see cola's or what
hole cut in strong lid for either 10" net pots or 3gal buckets in tubs..3 gal is safer, 1 1/8" drain 2" of liquid in tub , drain to sewer pipe , 3/4 pex feed lines 1/2 pex hand drilled drip rings..from 5 minon 15 off to 2 on 1 hr off
inliie coarse coco..i prefer lava though its heavy ..we cannot get lava here anymore
dwc is great but too much liquid volume these ar bare bulb i use cool tubes now..less yield but i don't care..i feel safer
doc greenthumbs chemdawg..crazy excellentView attachment 3659053
not doubting it just saying I didnt have success now with my nighttime temps below 60 my last batch was pretty frosty. Got the Peltiers powered .25 amp was not enough to cause them to have a significant temp difference, 1 amp and too hot to touch within a couple of seconds, so I stuck one on a heatsink hot side up and one on another heatsink hot side down added a fan. Unfortunately only one fan so had to swap the hs back and forth but within a few seconds ice started to form and had 100 deg f on the other it went up to 115 when I put the hs on the fan. The setup was more than maxing out the little 12v 1a power supply though so I think if your not going to run them full blast you need a power supply that wont eat itself up.My last harvest tastes great
I wish someone in here has had some experience with these who could chime in. And I was thinking about using 4 cpu coolers to sandwich the longer water blocks that allow the water to come in contact with the cold for a lot longer. But at that point I'm in over $100 and should just save it and put towards an actual chiller for $300.The power supply not the peltier. I don't know if a constant current driver is the solution but that's where Im leaning
I'd start with figuring out the theoretical energy needed to cool your water starting with the premise that 1 calorie is the energy required to change 1g of water 1 deg centigrade. 6-8 gallons of water 7.8lbs/gal, then add some swag number for the heat added by everything (this will change as your delta T changes and time frame will come into play too, you mentioned the bigger block for more time the bloc inefficiency will come into play too.I wish someone in here has had some experience with these who could chime in. And I was thinking about using 4 cpu coolers to sandwich the longer water blocks that allow the water to come in contact with the cold for a lot longer. But at that point I'm in over $100 and should just save it and put towards an actual chiller for $300.
An extra 150-200 watts of pure heat added seems like a nightmare to me, but then I'm just remembering a fan failure causing weeks worth of setback. I'll do a 1 pot setup soon but the hydro learn/re-learn curve is just a steep as for LEDs.thing is a chiller makes a ton of heat and draws mucho power.so if you can make these lil peltiers work it should save a ton of money
He's right I had one for a saltwater fish tank.thing is a chiller makes a ton of heat and draws mucho power.so if you can make these lil peltiers work it should save a ton of money
Any idea on wattage or power supply or any other spec (gallons, temp differential....) I'll search for info in brewing, I do wine too and chiling to where ice forms can knock out impurities, adjust ph, increase proof/alcohol.....beer though it seems they are taking from boiling down to mind thirties (F).He's right I had one for a saltwater fish tank.
Go to a beer brewing forum and they can help with those peltiers. Tell them you're brewing