High PH signs, symptoms and correcting...Pictorial!! A must read for newb'z

sativa indica pits

Active Member
you mentioned that thc levels can get up to 16+ but never succeed.. so question., how can u get high thc or read/tell how much thc the plant is producing or going to produce..?

really this has to be done over many generations, with selection of special mothers and a good breeding program. Once you back cross and stabilize certain traits the next crop will be stable and grow like there sisters. there are companys you can send your end product to and they will test thc, cbn,cbd,cbc levels. I just swing a sample down to my doctor office and they call in a couple days and e-mail me the results
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
dub why dont u just goooo away?? I know that big lettered thread right at the top of your list high ph signs symptoms and correcting keeps calling you. try to ignore it
 

tikitoker

Active Member
Because you don't need to. Whether it's 6 or 8. It doesn't matter. And nobody ever really knows, cause they don't bother to check it. Adding anything to a compost tea to try and fluctuate the ph would most definitely just end up killing any beneficial bacteria or microbes. The thought is ridiculous in itself.


But now I'm confused. By what your saying, the ph of the liquid going in does matter, and by your experiment, your plants show the effects rather quickly.
you and aimaim don't make very many teas do you? you can change PH but it has to be a organic source. vineager, citric acid, manure, humic/fulvic acids, kelp, B-vitamins, ect... Dude everything that goes into a batch of AACT has an influence on which microbe will dominate. This will also affect/influence a PH change. Plus microbes have an order in which they wake up from a dormant state, kind of like a domino effect. By the 72 hr rolls round, your AACT PH is at least 7.5-8 and I don't give a shit who you are, is fungal dominant unless its made/mixed to a specific microbe to create dominance. Bacteria are acidic and fungi are alkaline--- im sure you can figure out the rest.
 

tikitoker

Active Member
"Pumping out lbs for my patients"

lol

still on that proving yourself trip huh?
I think I can speak for my friend on proving himself-- yes he has. Is it a trip?, no it's not. What IT IS..... is that the pounds he's providing for patient consumption, is a guarantee! A guarantee that's offered by a well respected grower that has a high standard not only in his grow efforts, but also in general life. Is it too hard to conceive that someone else could know more than you, or be it a far better grower. And if you are anything like others on here within this thread, (i wont say names)and you use miracle grow fertilizer w/ tapwater, you don't PH? PooBuds is all i can say to that. Hey you should make a new user profile and re name yourself "dubsOGdoodooBUDs" rolmao-- take a hike
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
that is spot on. simple. once you actually figure out how it works. you will just say things like dump whatever into your soil. I couldnt resist, I had to fix the ph in those few plants, 72 hrs later and the only change was worse. ill go get a pic or 2...

these are the same plants I watered with 7.5 water
DSC00874.jpgDSC00877.jpg hey everyone, didnt you know, you dont have to bother check the ph of the water your using, Thanks for all the great advice on that!! Now look at those plants! This is my 2nd ph problem with this grow, and I have to thank you guys!! this is what I get for even giving you the thought that maybe, maybe the soil just might buffer back to 6.5. Not all soils will do this and this is fact.

why wouldnt you rather have plants that look like this?DSC00876.jpg

or how bout this?DSC00878.jpg

wtf? Seriously, " THE SOIL WILL BUFFER" yea if you have the right soil, not this mix and not every soil on earth used by all the millions of growers out the all with unique soil construction and composure.
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
Cannabis requires a certain pH range in order to thrive. The pH regulates nutrient uptake. If the pH is too acidic or alkaline it blocks nutrient availability. pH is therefore important in plant growth because it affects the availability of plant foods and prevents the spread of soil borne diseases. Every plant species on our planet requires a particular soil pH for healthy growth. Soils are known as "sweet" if they are alkaline and "sour" if they are acid.

When you go to a garden center one of the first things you notice in the soil section is that there are different types of soil for various plant species. There is soil specifically for roses, geraniums, rhododendron, bonsai plants, cacti, lawns, orchids, palm trees and so on. If you compare these soil products you will find that many differ in pH. So the first thing you would look for are the products which have the correct pH for cannabis. These are products with a range of 5.5-6.8 pH.
- See more at: http://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Soil-Guide#Product Information in North America

info from mandala seeds just though they might have a clue??
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
SOIL

Measure the volume of vinegar* required for a fixed amount of water to adjust the pH down to 6.2-6.5. Add the required amount of vinegar each time you need to water and check the pH before watering.
If the water is too acidic (i.e. below pH 6.0) you should mix or replace it with another water source that has a higher pH. This could be bottled mineral water or rain water.
If you are using tap water let it sit in a bucket for a few hours so that the chlorine evaporates.

*Vinegar is a neutral acid that is completely harmless to plants when diluted in water. It should be used to adjust the pH of the water for soil cultivation to prevent overfertilizing of plants. The commercial pH DOWN products all contain potent nitric or phosphoric acid that raise the salt level in soil and can burn your plants. Especially seedlings and young plants easily suffer from regular watering with pH Down.
- See more at: http://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Water-and-pH#sthash.1s8ZC2YW.dpuf
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
After 42 days of flowering, alarm bells rang as The Doc realised he had made a big mistake when adjusting the pH value in the past two weeks which let him water the plants with a pH value of 2 points lower than intended! That lead to a limited nutrient uptake and many of the shade leaves in the lower and medium zone of the plants rapidly turned yellow and were dropped by the plants then. Well, cultivation mistakes sometimes even happen to the most experienced grower. Of course the Doc was worried whether flower production would suffer from the pH problem, but after having flushed the soil and given the plants plenty of calcium, they soon recovered and bud formation seemed to continue unimpaired which made The Doc feel extremely relieved.

just some thing from dutch passion

Its really strange im saying the same thing as the growers from dutch passion seeds in amsterdam. Im sure they dont know what they hell they are doing right, he just said the same thing ive been saying all week

They must be wrong...haha why didnt that soil 'BUFFER" huh? they have alarm bells for ph?? weird
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
the only time i worried about pH in soil was once
the FFOF ran out of the powdered oyster shell buffer, into flower
i didn't have any dolomite lime, so to fix the incredibly low pH, i flushed until water was the same in/out, then governed my soil pH by controlling the pH in.

I think the oyster shell was leeched out due to my error, i added some extra perlite, and each time i watered i got a good amount of runoff that just kept sucking out the oyster shell.
the oyster shell got out before everything else, resulting in a low (5.0) pH.
after about 15 gallons of water in a 3 gallon container, things worked out and plants came back

having said that i never run into the problem now because i worry more about initial soil pH.
making sure you know what's inside the soil you buy is important.
if working with ffof i recommend using some dolomite

you most likely will never have to do a flush as said; closest thing to flushing the medium would be a monthly leeching, to clear salts off the roots.

i hope you measure soil pH correctly https://www.rollitup.org/blogs/blog28487-ph-distilled-water.html

there's a method of compensating soil pH.
say you aim for 6.5 and you have 6.0, give it 7.0 this watering, recheck next watering.
say it moves to 6.3 now give it 6.7, see where i'm going?
people here i think are just trying to say, that your correction method is off, and you may be misinforming people

accurate pH isn't obtained by just measuring pH in and out.

make things easy, just use a recommended amount of dolomite when mixing your soil up, if it doesn't include it, instead of down the line flushing out the nutrients in the soil (which you may have paid for )

i water without pHing anything, I use a soil thermometer and match the water i give the plant to the temperature of the soil
sometimes pH is 8.0 from silica and no base nutrients
sometimes it goes down to 5.5 from no silica and some base nutes

after i water the leaves always "pray" which i forget what it actually means, but everything stays healthy regardless of what pH i give it, because the soil buffers my PH back.

i get that you are showing what happens after giving the plants the wrong PH for a while, but why would you be doing that?
the point (i think) that is trying to be made, is phing has it's place but you don't see it yet.
for a seedling, you dont use pH up, down, or anything
the baby is barely even using nutrients, pH is irrelevent (in proper soil)
it could grow to be up to a foot with no nutrients and just tap water (not too hard .. duh)

then you transplant it into it's new soil, where it will find new nutrients, and you continue to give it water, maybe rooting enhancer to ease the transplant.. whatever
now there is no need to change your PH... because you made sure your soil was properly prepared with dolomite (of course you put everything else in too, right?)

so what i'm saying here, is ph in out is most of the time unnecessary in soil.. it is this thing that seems important because you are told by certain people it is, but you need to understand that this low /high ph thing is going to happen in hydroponics

the FIRST thing i do when anything happens in soil, i think about what i've been giving her. I'd be crazy to be giving the girls such a high PPM dose that the solution drops down 2 points (remember, no pH down/up)

yes you are correct by saying you can fix by flush. but it's very unlikely someone screws up that bad

IMO the ph up and down are needed rarely, and the proper use is misconceived because of the way people tell others to use it.
the thread should be called "preventing pH trouble with proper soil " or something, get what i'm saying? these people are just tired of seeing this happen over, and over, and over (i think.. lol)
 

pSi007

Active Member
Just wondered what you considered to be the difference between soil and earth?

earth usually has more buffer, soil is more decomposed organics. the soil will run hotter with a lower pH.
regarding the pH 6 or 8, comment.. who cares, lol.. pH @ 8 .. lol.. only as a test or a revenge.. pH 5.9 is 10x more acidic than 6.9, so be careful. cannabis likes slightly-acid.. everyone knows this..

i have 20 years of growing every way you can imagine, dwc, coco, flood, soil, earth, ect.. I find coco to be the best for indoor and earth to be almost impossible to beat. I routinely pull my cali-prop.215 from the ground with an average yield of 2-4lbs per plant. 6'-7'tall x 8'wide, average.


the Nor-Cal earth has so much buffer that it returns to pH 6.8 in a of couple hours unless it's been poisoned. in which case, you would need a couple weeks of weather to decontaminate.

My ACT brew is usually at about pH 7.8 before I give it a citric acid bath (Earth Juice - Natural Down). The citric acid pulls the ph down to about 6.5, this also kicks off the KREBS cycle, in turn, which kicks off the oxidizers to convert the natural elemental sulfur into acid - thereby holding the pH at a slight acid.
 

tikitoker

Active Member
This just keeps getting better

you guys crack me up
I think you're too proud to admit your wrong! Too bad man, you could Im sure, be an asset to the intent of the thread. Just don't know enough I guess. How did you earn that rep? Repeating what others said, being the most recent post and getting the credit? SMH........
 
And if you are anything like others on here within this thread, (i wont say names)and you use miracle grow fertilizer w/ tapwater, you don't PH? PooBuds is all i can say to that. Hey you should make a new user profile and re name yourself "dubsOGdoodooBUDs" rolmao-- take a hike
This is just pure BS. Some of us don't "PH" because we don't have too. Our substrate and fert's are at a proper PH for the strain we grow, so no need to adjust. Same reason I don't add calmag, I don't have to.

I'm sure you and your "buddy" (both registered Nov 2013, interesting) grow great weed and have PH that is dialed in but to suggest that anyone that doesn't PH adjust water grows shat weed is pretty stupid. The OP's grow looks like hundreds that I've seen, because this shit is super easy to grow.

I get why people try and make growing this plant appear challenging, it must be a let down to some of you to know others grow weed that is just as good or better than yours with very little effort.
 

plaguedog

Active Member
pH of your water source is bunk if you don't know the rest of the make up of the source. If your water has zero BUFFER capability, then you WILL get wild pH swings. RO water has this problem, it has ZERO capability to buffer the pH. ALKALINITY of your water source is more important to know (don't confuse the two alkalinity and pH are COMPLETELY different). You could have a pH of 9.0 with low alkalinity content and a pH of 7 and HIGH alkalinity content and guess which water will change the substrates pH quicker? It's been studied DOZENS of times. (IT's NOT THE water with a pH of 9)


Look I appreciate the thread but you don;t have all the facts here. Get your water source sampled and then come back to me.
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
keep throwing ph up/and or down in your soil grows.

as I said, an improper ph in an otherwise properly ammended soil, is merely a symptom. and tells you nothing about what the real problem is.

every now and then a blind bird trips over a worm. goodluck!
 

tikitoker

Active Member
This is just pure BS. Some of us don't "PH" because we don't have too. Our substrate and fert's are at a proper PH for the strain we grow, so no need to adjust. Same reason I don't add calmag, I don't have to.

I'm sure you and your "buddy" (both registered Nov 2013, interesting) grow great weed and have PH that is dialed in but to suggest that anyone that doesn't PH adjust water grows shat weed is pretty stupid. The OP's grow looks like hundreds that I've seen, because this shit is super easy to grow.

I get why people try and make growing this plant appear challenging, it must be a let down to some of you to know others grow weed that is just as good or better than yours with very little effort.
First off dude, we never said that if you don't PH prior, you harvest will be shit compared to ours. What we are simply getting at is that PH is not always "buffered" in every soil mix weather in organic or amended, and we (or SIP) is showing the PROPER way to remedy. Once back on track, hey, do what works for you, but until then, listen, apply and learn. Bro, I have a minor in advanced horticulture and I'm working to master, I am a state certified Master Horticulturist, state and federally liscensed and certified IPM technician and turf & landscape technician/chemical applicator. LOL let me tell you, optimal conditions are challenging. You have a lot to learn friend.....
 

tikitoker

Active Member
ph of your water source is bunk if you don't know the rest of the make up of the source. If your water has zero buffer capability, then you will get wild ph swings. Ro water has this problem, it has zero capability to buffer the ph. Alkalinity of your water source is more important to know (don't confuse the two alkalinity and ph are completely different). You could have a ph of 9.0 with low alkalinity content and a ph of 7 and high alkalinity content and guess which water will change the substrates ph quicker? It's been studied dozens of times. (it's not the water with a ph of 9)


look i appreciate the thread but you don;t have all the facts here. Get your water source sampled and then come back to me.
fuckin well said!!!!!!
 

tikitoker

Active Member
keep throwing ph up/and or down in your soil grows.

as I said, an improper ph in an otherwise properly ammended soil, is merely a symptom. and tells you nothing about what the real problem is.

every now and then a blind bird trips over a worm. goodluck!
I don't so thank you for the concern tho-- your right It don't tell me the whole picture when it come to a problem, but god damn it, it helps. Process of elimination dude-
 

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
your spelling, grammar, punctuation and overall sentence structure needs ph adjusting.

process of elimination tells me, I'm arguing with children.

see ya folks!
 
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