Yellowing leafs

diablo42

Active Member
Leafs turning yellow 4 weeks in, any idea what it could be?
600w hps running 24/7,advanced nutes MGB with bud candy and used big buds for 2 weeks of flower. using 4ml per litre MGB and 2ml of bud candy right now. pH is around 6 (using strips)…autoflowers
 

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drbudkilo

Member
what is EC runoff?.that looks like high ec in media causing lockup. burnt tips are a sure sign as well as random deficiency symptoms
 

Bigby

Well-Known Member
Bit of over watering/feeding, bit of a cal/mag deficiency.

Remove all damaged leaves. Wait for pot to fully dry out. Next time you water give it a bit of a flush, and low dose nutes and some cal/mag. Hope it improves.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Potassium deficiency.

Yellowing along serrated edges and “ tip burn “ ……. This deficiency tends to mimic traditional “ nute burn but the edge yellowing is the common symptom.

Causes can range from ph issue / stress and or salt buildup in medium.

Depending on your medium there are some easy fixes …. However I would get on it as soon as possible.
 

HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
Potassium deficiency.

Yellowing along serrated edges and “ tip burn “ ……. This deficiency tends to mimic traditional “ nute burn but the edge yellowing is the common symptom.

Causes can range from ph issue / stress and or salt buildup in medium.

Depending on your medium there are some easy fixes …. However I would get on it as soon as possible.
I'm guessing since it's getting a full dose of AN.. it may be getting too dry in between causing that excess buildup in the soil. Adding more will lock it out if given to much right? or am I off maybe? I figure the answer to this may contribute to what the OP is trying to achieve. Makes for some nice preventative measures later on.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing since it's getting a full dose of AN.. it may be getting too dry in between causing that excess buildup in the soil. Adding more will lock it out if given to much right? or am I off maybe? I figure the answer to this may contribute to what the OP is trying to achieve. Makes for some nice preventative measures later on.
Not sure what substrate he is running …. Thinking 6.0 ( if in soil ) is pretty much where to look.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
IMO I would still target the midpoint of acceptable PH ( soil ) @6.5 - to allow for drift.

Even if you target 6.0 - it possible it dropped to a more acidic range .
Take that “ Ph Perfect “ nonsense with a grain of salt ….

Autoflowers need very little as far as feed. Multibottle runs can often overwhelm them.
Most good bagged soil can run an auto for weeks upfront ….. all by itself.
This way the auto acclimates to medium without EXCESS.
You can even Top dress more original bagged mix INSTEAD of any bottled supplements.

Think about it …. You are only trying to keep it fed for approximately 90 + days.

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mtnman2016

Well-Known Member
Looks like 2 issues. Manganese and Potassium. If PH were off, I would not expect to see the brown spots, they would go yellow then burn up, not spotty. But as Budzbuddha mentioned, the PH should be near 6.5, I have always had good results between 6.5-6.7 using Fox Farms soils.

Adding Cal-Mag won't hurt anything, especially around 2-3 ml/gal. Up your flower nutes, PH and you should be fine.
 

drbudkilo

Member
what is your EC runoff ? that looks like lockup from high ec
if it start at top its immobile mineral
bottom its mobile mineral
 

drbudkilo

Member
Don’t have anything to test EC
it's a good idea to have a pen . even a cheap one . if not a flush WITH NUTRIENT will at least solve any issues. whether its high ec , missing minerals or whatever a good flush with a complete nutrient solution will solve most issues . push out old unbalanced solution and replace it with available minerals
 

diablo42

Active Member
Just tested the water I use and it was at 900 ppm before nutrients, bottled water was at 300 ppm. Where about should my runoff be?
PH is 6.14 on runoff, ppm says 2500
 
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