Rusting leafs?

S

Samwiseman420

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Please help diagnose my problem foliage, thanks:

Symptoms: droopy leafs – spots – tops yellowing / yellower on top.

Well water with iron not running through whole house filter.

Lowering pH to 6.0 - 6.1 with 25 drops of hydrochloric acid / gallon.

Using 3 (correction: 7) year old nutes ¼ tsp / gallon.

Been adding ¼ tsp cal mag +iron last two waterings.

Water almost daily when moisture probe reads dry with 1 quart / girl.

6/18 light schedule.
View attachment 5438434View attachment 5438436View attachment 5438437View attachment 5438438View attachment 5438439
Click to expand...
Looks like you were doing very well and suddenly these popped up over the last few days. Am I correct? Did you transplant recently? Why are you adding iron? It's in the food you are using. If you didn't transplant recently then you have run out of food from your soil a long time ago. 1/4 tsp per gallon is no way near enough. Stop the calmag and iron and test your nutes and water with a ppm meter to be sure you are getting the proper amount.

7 year old nutes? That's not very good. They not only looked starved but over watered as well. Use your hands as a weight guide to your buckets. Do not trust a probe to do your work for you. Your fuck up is recent and you might be able to fix this but you have a week max before all your fan leaves die.

1) Get a ppm meter asap
2) test your water and nute ppms by themselves before mixing.
3) Lift your buckets to test for weight. Don't trust probe.
4) Once your water is tested write down it's ppm or keep it in your head. Should be similar each time.
5) Your plants are kind of big so 700 to 800 ppm feeds should be ok to fix your problem. If filling a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallon of water use 1 tablespoon of nutes, mix, and test ppm every time until reaching final ppm.
6) Check ph and go if good.

If you can't get a ppm meter but are filling 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket use 2 tablespoons of Foliage Pro and check ph. I used to use it and 2 or 3 tablespoons always did the trick.........................but I used r/o water.

Stop adding other shit in until you fix your current problems :eyesmoke:
 
Greengrouch

Greengrouch

Well-Known Member
Yes problems in the root zone from overwatering can lead to yellowing/spotting. Just follow one of the many start to finish guides online. Quit trying to mix and match from different sources and thinking you’re doing your own research. Find some directions that work with your resources and follow them, you might have to buy some shit
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Greengrouch said:
Yes problems in the root zone from overwatering can lead to yellowing/spotting. Just follow one of the many start to finish guides online. Quit trying to mix and match from different sources and thinking you’re doing your own research. Find some directions that work with your resources and follow them, you might have to buy some shit
Click to expand...
Have fresh nutes and a light meter on the way.
 
EmeraldGreenGal

EmeraldGreenGal

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Have fresh nutes and a light meter on the way.
Click to expand...
If you nutrients were stored anywhere they would be getting light exposure or extremes of temperature then they can lose a lot of potency.

As a side note, you probably aren't doing this but just in case... if you are misting your plant then the droplets on the leaves can cause burn patterns very similar to this.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
EmeraldGreenGal said:
If you nutrients were stored anywhere they would be getting light exposure or extremes of temperature then they can lose a lot of potency.

As a side note, you probably aren't doing this but just in case... if you are misting your plant then the droplets on the leaves can cause burn patterns very similar to this.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Nutes were stored in dark cool place. Actually the little jug fell over and drained some. No misting going on. Buying new nutrients to be on the safe side but going to go with a flush for a week because I added Cal mag and that's when it started to accelerate.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Samwiseman420 said:
Looks like you were doing very well and suddenly these popped up over the last few days. Am I correct? Did you transplant recently? Why are you adding iron? It's in the food you are using. If you didn't transplant recently then you have run out of food from your soil a long time ago. 1/4 tsp per gallon is no way near enough. Stop the calmag and iron and test your nutes and water with a ppm meter to be sure you are getting the proper amount.

7 year old nutes? That's not very good. They not only looked starved but over watered as well. Use your hands as a weight guide to your buckets. Do not trust a probe to do your work for you. Your fuck up is recent and you might be able to fix this but you have a week max before all your fan leaves die.

1) Get a ppm meter asap
2) test your water and nute ppms by themselves before mixing.
3) Lift your buckets to test for weight. Don't trust probe.
4) Once your water is tested write down it's ppm or keep it in your head. Should be similar each time.
5) Your plants are kind of big so 700 to 800 ppm feeds should be ok to fix your problem. If filling a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallon of water use 1 tablespoon of nutes, mix, and test ppm every time until reaching final ppm.
6) Check ph and go if good.

If you can't get a ppm meter but are filling 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket use 2 tablespoons of Foliage Pro and check ph. I used to use it and 2 or 3 tablespoons always did the trick.........................but I used r/o water.

Stop adding other shit in until you fix your current problems :eyesmoke:
Click to expand...
I've only been adding one quart of water per 5 gallon bucket of soil.

So I need to give it a good flush, what's the low ppm number I should be looking for to guarantee a good flush?
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Ppm of my unfiltered well H2O 260. Is that high for tap?

Ppm after flushing 1 gal through 5 gal soil 980.

I'll test the pH adjusted / carbon filtered H2O ASAP. 270.

Retest the rest of the flush runoff 1400 - may not be accurate because sample was taken from the saucer so there was probably dried solids on it.
 
Last edited:
S

Samwiseman420

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Ppm of my unfiltered well H2O 260. Is that high for tap?

Ppm after flushing 1 gal through 5 gal soil 980.

I'll test the pH adjusted / carbon filtered H2O ASAP. 270.

Retest the rest of the flush runoff 1400 - may not be accurate because sample was taken from the saucer so there was probably dried solids on it.
Click to expand...
Your tap is fine. That's about average. I never test runoff. It never gives you an accurate sample. Who told you to flush and WHY? I was already concerned they were over watered and now you flushed them with more water. Now they are saturated with no food at all.

I'm a bit confused about what you are doing and the reasons for doing them. Those plants were fine a few days ago I bet. They lost some color and you went nuts trying to find a solution. Then you saturated them with calmag and iron plus nutes that were 7 years old. Then the leaves started to die and you did more stuff. Now you flushed them with ph'ed tap water and are testing the runoff.

Am I correct at this point? If I am correct we now have no nutes at all in a saturated environment. If this is true those major fan leaves will die real fast.

If my statement above = true then you have to feed them right away. Add nutes into your water slowly until you reach about 700 ppm. Ph the water then feed your plants until small runoff. Take the left over food and put into a spray bottle and spray those leaves with it. It will absorb the nitro faster especially if the roots are already too fucked up.

Vac out waste and sit back with your fingers crossed.

I can't give you more advice until I know exactly what is going on.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Samwiseman420 said:
Your tap is fine. That's about average. I never test runoff. It never gives you an accurate sample. Who told you to flush and WHY? I was already concerned they were over watered and now you flushed them with more water. Now they are saturated with no food at all.

I'm a bit confused about what you are doing and the reasons for doing them. Those plants were fine a few days ago I bet. They lost some color and you went nuts trying to find a solution. Then you saturated them with calmag and iron plus nutes that were 7 years old. Then the leaves started to die and you did more stuff. Now you flushed them with ph'ed tap water and are testing the runoff.

Am I correct at this point? If I am correct we now have no nutes at all in a saturated environment. If this is true those major fan leaves will die real fast.

If my statement above = true then you have to feed them right away. Add nutes into your water slowly until you reach about 700 ppm. Ph the water then feed your plants until small runoff. Take the left over food and put into a spray bottle and spray those leaves with it. It will absorb the nitro faster especially if the roots are already too fucked up.

Vac out waste and sit back with your fingers crossed.

I can't give you more advice until I know exactly what is going on.
Click to expand...
Everything's correct except after the leafs started to rust I didn't do anything else except post this thread.

How do you test ppm if not through the runoff?? I have fresh nutes coming tomorrow. I'm at 980 ppm runoff so there has to be some nutes left?

Out of 6 (3 different strains - 2 each) girls the rusting is affecting 2 of them which are not the same strain. One other isn't looking as happy as before.
 
Wastei

Wastei

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Please help diagnose my problem foliage, thanks:

Symptoms: droopy leafs – spots – tops yellowing / yellower on top.

Well water with iron not running through whole house filter.

Lowering pH to 6.0 - 6.1 with 25 drops of hydrochloric acid / gallon.

Using 3 (correction: 7) year old nutes ¼ tsp / gallon.

Been adding ¼ tsp cal mag +iron last two waterings.

Water almost daily when moisture probe reads dry with 1 quart / girl.

6/18 light schedule.
View attachment 5438434View attachment 5438436View attachment 5438437View attachment 5438438View attachment 5438439
Click to expand...
Excess light is your main issue. Dyna Gro is a little low in Ca and Mg and is worsen with using excess light. Keep adding Ca/Mg.

I see light bleaching all over your plants. Raise your light or decrease intensity. You're also pHing to low IMO. Aim for 6.5-7.0 growing in peat/Pro-mix.

Old nutes works just as good as new ones and I still use a 15+ year old bloom bottle for my cloning tray.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Wastei said:
Excess light is your main issue. Dyna Gro is a little low in Ca and Mg and is worsen with using excess light. Keep adding Ca/Mg.

I see light bleaching all over your plants. Raise your light or decrease intensity. You're also pHing to low IMO. Aim for 6.5-7.0 growing in peat/Pro-mix.

Old nutes works just as good as new ones and I still use a 15+ year old bloom bottle for my cloning tray.
Click to expand...
Re bleaching: explains why yellow on top and green on bottom.

I did see examples of low mag leafs and it looked like my rusting. What's causing my rusting, too intense lighting? I raised them up.
 
S

Samwiseman420

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Everything's correct except after the leafs started to rust I didn't do anything else except post this thread.

How do you test ppm if not through the runoff?? I have fresh nutes coming tomorrow. I'm at 980 ppm runoff so there has to be some nutes left?

Out of 6 (3 different strains - 2 each) girls the rusting is affecting 2 of them which are not the same strain. One other isn't looking as happy as before.
Click to expand...
Dude, you test your ppm when you make your food. When you mix your nutes into the water you test the ppm to make sure it is good enough to feed your plants. Then you test your ph.

I have no clue who told you to test your runoff ppms. I have no clue who told you to flush. AND now it's the lights?!?!?!?

This is getting weird. Good luck.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Samwiseman420 said:
Dude, you test your ppm when you make your food. When you mix your nutes into the water you test the ppm to make sure it is good enough to feed your plants. Then you test your ph.

I have no clue who told you to test your runoff ppms. I have no clue who told you to flush. AND now it's the lights?!?!?!?

This is getting weird. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Well somebody told me to apply KY jelly to the leaves to retain the moisture, that's going to take forever so I'm just going to add it to the pH nute water and spray it on like you said.

Ty :clap:
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
stawawager said:
Temp at 73, 68 at dark hours.
Click to expand...
This is your problem. This is all things at the same time: light intensity, climate nutes.

Let me ask you: do you ever get your plants to stretch out their leaves properly?
Are you in veg or flower?
You should try to raise the temps, until your leaves stretch out, you may need to raise rh aswell. You see with your led lights they dont carry any ir heat. This means the plant doesnt get enough heat of the cannopy. Which means they drink less, and get too little nutes aswell as dont have enough metabolic rate to keep up with intense light. Is your pots sitting directly on a cold floor? Lift them a bit. How to get more heat and transpiration? You can extract from the botto. Instead of the top. You want a few more degrees, for high intensity your want 79 or more.
You may need to lower light intensity and fix you nutes, especially Mg. But dont try to fix this with calmag while you dont have transpiration; youll end up causing lockout of K and more problems.
Also, if you start by the nutes once you get transpiration right youll end up having to change the nutes. Think of it as drinking less of a stronger juice, or more of a weaker. So its best to find where the plants look happy and drinking first. Sometimes its hard to heat up your space: then try this in one side or corner: hang an incandescent bulb to throw some heat and reds on top of your cannopy. If you see improvent of posture the add for the rest but be really carefull incandescent light tend to cause a lot of stretch. So make sure you dont use to much watrage

Once you see good plant posture look at the bew growth, see how it looks. Deficient? Then change nutes and or light intensity. Best of luck.
 
stawawager

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
This is your problem. This is all things at the same time: light intensity, climate nutes.

Let me ask you: do you ever get your plants to stretch out their leaves properly?
Are you in veg or flower?
You should try to raise the temps, until your leaves stretch out, you may need to raise rh aswell. You see with your led lights they dont carry any ir heat. This means the plant doesnt get enough heat of the cannopy. Which means they drink less, and get too little nutes aswell as dont have enough metabolic rate to keep up with intense light. Is your pots sitting directly on a cold floor? Lift them a bit. How to get more heat and transpiration? You can extract from the botto. Instead of the top. You want a few more degrees, for high intensity your want 79 or more.
You may need to lower light intensity and fix you nutes, especially Mg. But dont try to fix this with calmag while you dont have transpiration; youll end up causing lockout of K and more problems.
Also, if you start by the nutes once you get transpiration right youll end up having to change the nutes. Think of it as drinking less of a stronger juice, or more of a weaker. So its best to find where the plants look happy and drinking first. Sometimes its hard to heat up your space: then try this in one side or corner: hang an incandescent bulb to throw some heat and reds on top of your cannopy. If you see improvent of posture the add for the rest but be really carefull incandescent light tend to cause a lot of stretch. So make sure you dont use to much watrage

Once you see good plant posture look at the bew growth, see how it looks. Deficient? Then change nutes and or light intensity. Best of luck.
Click to expand...
I think you're spot on regarding temperature. I had a secondary heater that I turned off trying to get the temperature lower than 70. I also started leaving the door open during light hours so definitely the canopy temp has been a lot higher than pot temp. I moved the heater to blow under the platform (on the back of the platform there's an opening for air circulation).

It was growing fine at 80° but then I turned off the heater and open the door and that's when the pot probably got cold and the canopy stayed hot.

They are vegging. The one in the front left in the 5 gallon bucket is the problem child. I'll get a picture of the 4 girls in the back later in the 25 gallon pot and see if there are "stretching out their leaves properly".

" You can extract from the botto. Instead of the top." Do you mean I can get an exact?20241111_145020.jpg temperature from the bottom instead of the top?

I'll study the rest of what you wrote. Thx
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top