Why do some guys wats to still use mono led with cobs?

Add mono's to cobs?


  • Total voters
    116

Where am I

Well-Known Member
Amare began the "white light revolution"?............Really? Lol, can't make this shit up.
Sorry for the misinterpretation of that statement. I did not say that DIY where not using them or that some Company's had white in their lights. Most lights back in the day were burple. I should know I have a closet full of them. The only other company I know of is Apache Tech. There lights were used by NASA and they were not CANA specific.
 

Where am I

Well-Known Member
Well if you're done boasting bout your money making, I'll never buy a light. Ever. It's too fun and easy to diy.View attachment 3692315 View attachment 3692316 View attachment 3692315 View attachment 3692316 View attachment 3692317
Nice job, I am glad you like to build your lights. It is no different than in the "good old days" when we would build our own computers. If you grab a Grainger's, McMaster-Carr or MSC catalog you can source almost all of those components or better yet hit up Thomas Register. Now a days you just hit the Internet and do a search. As for the "boasting" I do take offense I merely stated the facts and my experience.. I am not some "kid " living in my parents basement. It is like purchasing tools you can go down to Harbor Freight and get a decent set of wrenches for a good price they will work, But if you want to get a high quality tool you purchase Snap On , MAC Tool, Rigid or Craftsman. If you need Electrical you go with FLUKE, IDEAL, GREENLEE,,,,
these companies have been around for decades and have stellar reputations. Many individuals don't have the time, desire or skill set to DIY. Could I build a light sure I could just.have no desire to do so... When someone or a company makes a claim that seems unrealistic, I will call them out. It so easy to hide behind the keyboard and make all the claims you want. A one off product is always normally cheaper to produce. it is easier to upgrade. Now produce a 100 of those same lights and have a deadline to complete those lights. Well now you just increased the cost of your raw material even though you can negotiate a price reduction since you are purchasing a larger quantity. Toss in your labor force. Can you get those lights done buy yourself by the deadline? If not now you have to hire employee's. if you want a quality person then they are going to want certain benefits and wages. Well that just affected your bottom line. Lets not forget about the additional tooling and power you are going to need to produce those lights. There is another cost Wait a minute now I need to ship those 100 lights.... Well that isn't getting done for free. You now have to get packaging so they get there undamaged. Finally the "government" is going to want their share... Economics101
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Nice job, I am glad you like to build your lights. It is no different than in the "good old days" when we would build our own computers. If you grab a Grainger's, McMaster-Carr or MSC catalog you can source almost all of those components or better yet hit up Thomas Register. Now a days you just hit the Internet and do a search. As for the "boasting" I do take offense I merely stated the facts and my experience.. I am not some "kid " living in my parents basement. It is like purchasing tools you can go down to Harbor Freight and get a decent set of wrenches for a good price they will work, But if you want to get a high quality tool you purchase Snap On , MAC Tool, Rigid or Craftsman. If you need Electrical you go with FLUKE, IDEAL, GREENLEE,,,,
these companies have been around for decades and have stellar reputations. Many individuals don't have the time, desire or skill set to DIY. Could I build a light sure I could just.have no desire to do so... When someone or a company makes a claim that seems unrealistic, I will call them out. It so easy to hide behind the keyboard and make all the claims you want. A one off product is always normally cheaper to produce. it is easier to upgrade. Now produce a 100 of those same lights and have a deadline to complete those lights. Well now you just increased the cost of your raw material even though you can negotiate a price reduction since you are purchasing a larger quantity. Toss in your labor force. Can you get those lights done buy yourself by the deadline? If not now you have to hire employee's. if you want a quality person then they are going to want certain benefits and wages. Well that just affected your bottom line. Lets not forget about the additional tooling and power you are going to need to produce those lights. There is another cost Wait a minute now I need to ship those 100 lights.... Well that isn't getting done for free. You now have to get packaging so they get there undamaged. Finally the "government" is going to want their share... Economics101
Sweet dude. Thanks for the lesson.
 

SoOLED

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the misinterpretation of that statement. I did not say that DIY where not using them or that some Company's had white in their lights. Most lights back in the day were burple. I should know I have a closet full of them. The only other company I know of is Apache Tech. There lights were used by NASA and they were not CANA specific.
we're smarter then NASA. stupid space men and rocket ships. they conceded in VEG-1 that full spec light is preferable, they are working with low power parameters / caloric testing. they don't have 300watts to drop on GMC red potatos, and soy beans. try growing a crop that feeds 5 with 60watts, then you kinda get what they are getting at.

which is why, I never took the REd/blue hook. yes, chlorophyll a and b peak at those NM, but I'm not in space. i got a 220 outlet with 60amps. id likely shut down the whole ISS if i plugged in my gear.
 
Last edited:

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
we're smarter then NASA. stupid space men and rocket ships. they conceded in VEG-1 that full spec light is preferable, they are working with low power parameters / caloric testing. they don't have 300watts to drop on GMC red potatos, and soy beans. try growing a crop that feeds 5 with 60watts, then you kinda get what they are getting at.
THANK YOU. People need to understand that feeding people with low power in small spaces is not the same as maximizing yield and resin production.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
the ISS Solar Arrays

"....

Altogether, the four sets of arrays can generate 84 to 120 kilowatts of electricity -- enough to provide power to more than 40 homes.
"
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/structure/elements/solar_arrays.html#.V0g78vmLTRa
84,000W/240V = 350A, of which most needs to be used on mission projects and life support, such as environmental control equipment.

I guarantee you aren't feeding yourself, let alone your family, directly out of your grow room.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
You're joking right? I have a whole thread on me building it step by step
My bad. It's another guy who has one that looks almost identical. He had it built. Cool light. I have a question about your lenses as I've been wanting some that are hollow & act more as primaries & protectors. Looks like you have a nice spread with them on. What type lens are those?
Have you any grows with your DIY?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
My bad. It's another guy who has one that looks almost identical. He had it built. Cool light. I have a question about your lenses as I've been wanting some that are hollow & act more as primaries & protectors. Looks like you have a nice spread with them on. What type lens are those?
Have you any grows with your DIY?
FWIW, I'm running 80 degree glass lenses on my CXB3590 modules. They're outperforming the one module that I didn't have lenses for, and the lenses definitely protect the LES from damage and contamination. I'm only giving up a few percent of ultimate performance- which I more than get back with the tighter spread.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
My bad. It's another guy who has one that looks almost identical. He had it built. Cool light. I have a question about your lenses as I've been wanting some that are hollow & act more as primaries & protectors. Looks like you have a nice spread with them on. What type lens are those?
Have you any grows with your DIY?
I've switched to angelinas. They give a much better downward footprint like I've wanted. I am using lenses on the 4 cob 4000k light. Haven't had a chance to use it though. I used the lenses in the tent for a while before switching though, but it just seemed they threw light up too high and all over. I can see the light footprint better with the reflectors.20160518_095014.jpg
 

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
That wasn't directed towards you airwalker. It's towards the whole forum in general.

Possibly on a brighter note.
View attachment 3692379

How the fuck can these guys get away with this shit? Why does it work? It just grows. Let's all be negative to these assholes and not each other.
haha seriously.. those are some bold claims. and nearly $2000 for 4x4 footprint. wow


"The MAX600 high power LED grow lights feature a simple plug-n-play installation. And, like our entire line of full spectrum LED lights, MAX600 uses very low electricity, just 125 watts (1000watt HID comparison)"

and then

"The MAX1200 high power LED grow lights feature a simple plug-n-play installation. And, like our entire line of full spectrum LED lights, MAX1200 uses very low electricity, just 250 watts (1000watt HID comparison)"

So the one with twice the led power has the same comparison to hid as the one half the size? so why do you make the one double the size if it has the same output.

and then quoting NASA... Im sure they are using "Promax grow lights, by Eco-Lite" on the ISS since they are "better than the sun"

According to their site they have been making specialty grow lights for the last 30 years...
Try clicking on the "authorized dealers" section.... Coming soon! really, 30 years, and not one authorized distributor?

Well I know where to buy my next grow light now. lets get them a banner on RIU, that way everyone will know they are legit..
 

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
For all you DIY COB builders, as in @ttystikk @Airwalker16 @REALSTYLES @Sativied and anybody else doing the DIY COB thing, or even non diy, people if you have some significant insight on cooling, I have a few questions.

I am considering starting to take up the CXB3590 platform, on a medium scale maybe 20-30 chips, versus the idea of a mini split ac system, and Co2, to cool 3 hid lights. As the summer rolls around, I may have no choice but to start using AC if I keep my HID lights running, but I have heard that these chips do produce quite a bit of heat. In fact I have heard from one source, not sure how reliable, of a source, since they weren't speaking of one particular led platform, but led's in general. I think it was in a magazine, like either MY, or Garden culture, and it was saying that watt for watt, led's tend to produce around the same BTU's of heat as HID per watt I believe, which was pretty shocking to read.
First off I want to know if that is true or bull. I suspect the latter.
Second of all, since it its not in the form of IR, and is mainly radiated upwards (assuming your chips are pointed downwards) it should therefore be easier to get rid of before it ever gets near the plants. Not to mention you need a lot less watts of COB than you do HID for the same area.

Ideally I would like to have a sealed room and use CO2. Are there ways of removing this heat without ac, in a sealed room, such as maybe having ducting running from outside the room, above the lights, connected directly to the top of the chips, allowing you to raise and lower the lights, but still remove the heat from the back side of the chips efficiently enough to maintain decent temperatures at night, all summer in a sealed room.
Maybe a better way of asking this question, is if all the heat is removed from the back of the chip, is the rest of the room going to need additional cooling, do the chips put off heat in other/all directions, or would removing it from the back of the chips allow you to maintain whatever ambient temp you have going in the room?

I am trying to make sure I explore all options before making any major purchases, whether it be a mini split to use with current HID, or COB + some kind of cooling, or even COB + ac of a lower btu I would hope. I am open to all types of suggestions, including using a water chiller, and radiator module as the source of cool air to send through the ducting removing the heat from the top of the chips.

Basically I need to be able to maintain 70-75 degrees at night, all summer. with a sealed room and CO2, I suppose 80 could be acceptable, but It would be nice to have more control than that, if its a particularly hot day, when it could be anywhere from 77-85% outside during the day, but not much more than that, and significantly cooler at night, which is when the lights are on. Maybe an occasional day of 90, but not regularly. Night time temps range from low to high 70's, perhaps 80 on a particularly hot day. This isn't CA weather, but its not CO either. There is some heat to deal with, but its a lot less than most places in the country. It is enough however that HID lighting, and non AC, air cooling is not going to work for 3-4 months out of the summer. Even at night.
Energy usage is important, which is why am considering the COB LED route, but it is not a cheap route. It will cost approximately double the cost of a mini split, to get the basic parts for a cob setup, so if extra cooling is a minimal cost and good efficiency, it could pay for itself rather quickly in energy costs.

I have been building electronics since I was a little kid, so diy cob route not an issue, and is the only option I am interested in, due to the high prices of pre made cob fixtures, which would be difficult to add custom cooling to anyways.

I want to hear what you guys do, how you cool your cob's and what kind of energy usage you come up with compared with HID and AC, as well as COB+ AC, water cooling, and anything else that could potentially be a significant factor when making this major decision.
But I particularly want to know about sealed CO2 rooms using COB led, and what it takes to accomplish this. I figure if I'm going through all this, I might as well do co2 at the same time, and design it all together, to work together.

Thanks guys
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
For all you DIY COB builders, as in @ttystikk @Airwalker16 @REALSTYLES @Sativied and anybody else doing the DIY COB thing, or even non diy, people if you have some significant insight on cooling, I have a few questions.

I am considering starting to take up the CXB3590 platform, on a medium scale maybe 20-30 chips, versus the idea of a mini split ac system, and Co2, to cool 3 hid lights. As the summer rolls around, I may have no choice but to start using AC if I keep my HID lights running, but I have heard that these chips do produce quite a bit of heat. In fact I have heard from one source, not sure how reliable, of a source, since they weren't speaking of one particular led platform, but led's in general. I think it was in a magazine, like either MY, or Garden culture, and it was saying that watt for watt, led's tend to produce around the same BTU's of heat as HID per watt I believe, which was pretty shocking to read.
First off I want to know if that is true or bull. I suspect the latter.
Second of all, since it its not in the form of IR, and is mainly radiated upwards (assuming your chips are pointed downwards) it should therefore be easier to get rid of before it ever gets near the plants. Not to mention you need a lot less watts of COB than you do HID for the same area.

Ideally I would like to have a sealed room and use CO2. Are there ways of removing this heat without ac, in a sealed room, such as maybe having ducting running from outside the room, above the lights, connected directly to the top of the chips, allowing you to raise and lower the lights, but still remove the heat from the back side of the chips efficiently enough to maintain decent temperatures at night, all summer in a sealed room.
Maybe a better way of asking this question, is if all the heat is removed from the back of the chip, is the rest of the room going to need additional cooling, do the chips put off heat in other/all directions, or would removing it from the back of the chips allow you to maintain whatever ambient temp you have going in the room?

I am trying to make sure I explore all options before making any major purchases, whether it be a mini split to use with current HID, or COB + some kind of cooling, or even COB + ac of a lower btu I would hope. I am open to all types of suggestions, including using a water chiller, and radiator module as the source of cool air to send through the ducting removing the heat from the top of the chips.

Basically I need to be able to maintain 70-75 degrees at night, all summer. with a sealed room and CO2, I suppose 80 could be acceptable, but It would be nice to have more control than that, if its a particularly hot day, when it could be anywhere from 77-85% outside during the day, but not much more than that, and significantly cooler at night, which is when the lights are on. Maybe an occasional day of 90, but not regularly. Night time temps range from low to high 70's, perhaps 80 on a particularly hot day. This isn't CA weather, but its not CO either. There is some heat to deal with, but its a lot less than most places in the country. It is enough however that HID lighting, and non AC, air cooling is not going to work for 3-4 months out of the summer. Even at night.
Energy usage is important, which is why am considering the COB LED route, but it is not a cheap route. It will cost approximately double the cost of a mini split, to get the basic parts for a cob setup, so if extra cooling is a minimal cost and good efficiency, it could pay for itself rather quickly in energy costs.

I have been building electronics since I was a little kid, so diy cob route not an issue, and is the only option I am interested in, due to the high prices of pre made cob fixtures, which would be difficult to add custom cooling to anyways.

I want to hear what you guys do, how you cool your cob's and what kind of energy usage you come up with compared with HID and AC, as well as COB+ AC, water cooling, and anything else that could potentially be a significant factor when making this major decision.
But I particularly want to know about sealed CO2 rooms using COB led, and what it takes to accomplish this. I figure if I'm going through all this, I might as well do co2 at the same time, and design it all together, to work together.

Thanks guys
There's numerous options. Ducting an enclosed cob setup directly out is a brilliant idea if you plan on using cO2. I personally, dont, but should. But my actively cooled build DEFINITELY radates the heat MOSTLY upwards like you suggested. As for same heat as HID, absolute bull shit. Those bulbs burn at 400*+ & these 3590's radiate(on my passive bars) @ around 100-120*. Which is optimal operating temp for them. They like being hot, but perform better cool. So work with that.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Doing a diy duct cooled fixture isn't really complex but I can tell you without a doubt it's the coolest running light you can have period. 95%+ of the waste heat is discarded leaving only the light itself to add to the heat load in your room.
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
I am considering starting to take up the CXB3590 platform, on a medium scale maybe 20-30 chips, versus the idea of a mini split ac system, and Co2, to cool 3 hid lights. As the summer rolls around, I may have no choice but to start using AC if I keep my HID lights running, but I have heard that these chips do produce quite a bit of heat. In fact I have heard from one source, not sure how reliable, of a source, since they weren't speaking of one particular led platform, but led's in general. I think it was in a magazine, like either MY, or Garden culture, and it was saying that watt for watt, led's tend to produce around the same BTU's of heat as HID per watt I believe, which was pretty shocking to read.
First off I want to know if that is true or bull. I suspect the latter.
in a sealed room, 1000W of IR, or HID, or LED, or a toaster, will produce the same amount of heat. thats physics


Second of all, since it its not in the form of IR, and is mainly radiated upwards (assuming your chips are pointed downwards) it should therefore be easier to get rid of before it ever gets near the plants. Not to mention you need a lot less watts of COB than you do HID for the same area.
all light has a radiant heat component to it, not just IR. But now youre not talking a sealed room when you are removing heat. removing heat from a cob can be as easy as a ducted HID fixture

Ideally I would like to have a sealed room and use CO2. Are there ways of removing this heat without ac, in a sealed room, such as maybe having ducting running from outside the room, above the lights, connected directly to the top of the chips, allowing you to raise and lower the lights, but still remove the heat from the back side of the chips efficiently enough to maintain decent temperatures at night, all summer in a sealed room
old ducted reflectors are almost free on craigslist, etc. not too difficult to mod these to hold led heatsinks which vent the back while physically isolating it to leave the LES exposed. you can plate the front with AL or get teh proper heatsink widths a simple variation on this is to take a 4" pipe/duct and section a portion of it in half, and mount it tight to fit to the top of a bar heatsink. another variation would be a 4-6" pvc pipe with a series of tees that fit over the top 75% of a pin fin and drew the tinest amount of air up and out. i can sketch some of these out if this doesnt make sense

watercooling is another emerging option

Maybe a better way of asking this question, is if all the heat is removed from the back of the chip, is the rest of the room going to need additional cooling, do the chips put off heat in other/all directions, or would removing it from the back of the chips allow you to maintain whatever ambient temp you have going in the room?
many people have had trouble maintaining the temps tehy are used to when switiching to cobs. your climate is a big factor here of course

I am trying to make sure I explore all options before making any major purchases, whether it be a mini split to use with current HID, or COB + some kind of cooling, or even COB + ac of a lower btu I would hope. I am open to all types of suggestions, including using a water chiller, and radiator module as the source of cool air to send through the ducting removing the heat from the top of the chips.
if youre gonna go thru that much trouble you can water cool the cobs directly cpu-cooler style

Basically I need to be able to maintain 70-75 degrees at night, all summer. with a sealed room and CO2, I suppose 80 could be acceptable, but It would be nice to have more control than that, if its a particularly hot day, when it could be anywhere from 77-85% outside during the day, but not much more than that, and significantly cooler at night, which is when the lights are on. Maybe an occasional day of 90, but not regularly. Night time temps range from low to high 70's, perhaps 80 on a particularly hot day. This isn't CA weather, but its not CO either. There is some heat to deal with, but its a lot less than most places in the country. It is enough however that HID lighting, and non AC, air cooling is not going to work for 3-4 months out of the summer. Even at night.
i might be confusing natural day/night and plant day/night cycle in your post, but 2 things jump out at me:
1. heatload should be minimal during the natural day when lights are off and you dont have to worry about CO2 which would be off. conventional AC in the space would have a light load
2. many people believe (myself included) that higher ambient temps are useful with LED relative to HID which increases leaf temps with all of the IR. typically 5 deg warmer seems to work well (85 w led+co2 vs say 80 with HID+co2)
3. some have claimed positive benefits to plant growth patterns when there is a 'negative temp differential' (i.e. slightly warmer in plant dark cycle). search forums for this for more infor

Energy usage is important, which is why am considering the COB LED route, but it is not a cheap route. It will cost approximately double the cost of a mini split, to get the basic parts for a cob setup, so if extra cooling is a minimal cost and good efficiency, it could pay for itself rather quickly in energy costs.
efficient lighting saves you money every hour you run it
mini split costs you money every time you run it. if you can reduce or eliminate heat load you'll come out ahead in the long run and pay for your cobs in a year or two (and have many more years of light out of them).

I have been building electronics since I was a little kid, so diy cob route not an issue, and is the only option I am interested in, due to the high prices of pre made cob fixtures, which would be difficult to add custom cooling to anyways.
the pvc pipe with the downward facing tees with passive heatsinks partially sticking up into the ducts is the easiest design i can think of and takes advantage of the wide variety of 'bolt together' predrilled pinfins. literally the smallest fan you can fit to the duct to create any amount of draft should be all you need. or alternatively a small 4" inline could easily draft a 5x10 or 10 x 10 room.

if you really want sealed to save CO2 its hard to beat water cooling which is complex and expensive but co2 aint cheap either

I want to hear what you guys do, how you cool your cob's and what kind of energy usage you come up with compared with HID and AC, as well as COB+ AC, water cooling, and anything else that could potentially be a significant factor when making this major decision.
But I particularly want to know about sealed CO2 rooms using COB led, and what it takes to accomplish this. I figure if I'm going through all this, I might as well do co2 at the same time, and design it all together, to work together.
Thanks guys
some general rules of thumb (depending on efficiency of leds i.e how hard driven):

-1W of HID is replaceable by 0.6-0.7W of LED in most cases, substantially reducing overall heat loads
-re: leaf temp target, slightly higher ambient temps are generally acceptable with LEDs relative to HID
-due to the even nature of multiple cob fixtures heat/light stress on tops of plants is greatly diminished
-there are quite a few ways to be 'completely sealed' or 'partially sealed' (i.e reduced venting/ room air exchange relative to HID
-if you can figure out a system (modified sealed hoods and /or water cooling) with no air exchange the savings in CO2 should really help justify the complexity of the system over time
 

Levradus

Well-Known Member
W
Hey Realstyles,

Thanks for starting this thread ;) I'm surprised to be the first to hop in, I'll give it a go..
EDIT : PurpleBuz beat me to it.

1) APPLICATIONs are different:

I don't see it as a VS but more of a case of complementarity.
- Cobs for the base/broad spectrum are unbeatable in terms of total output, simplicity of build, efficiency and price.
- Monos are obviously the best way to tune/complement a spectrum, as you can really pick out the nm-range you want to boost.

Now fine tuning is not necessary with COBS (I beleive that's where you stand) , we already get to choose between extremely adequate and full spectrums, better than any HIDs, except maybe CMH.
.. BUT ...
LED guys have always been in this spectrum tuning stuff, as that's how it all began (no whites).
After all this spectrum experimenting, alot of us have learned from it and like the idea of hitting our plants the best way we can ( Ah yeah !).
More often than not, the ones to bring the next best thing usually started by experimenting a little further than others (..) it can be exciting to walk in uncharted territories ;)

2) CX vs 660nm : Mono's can be very efficient :

I'm not going to take the easy example of blue leds, which are by far the most efficient around, but take 660nm Osam Oslon deep red:

1) CXA - CXB 4000k/3000K give 4.53 - 4.66 umol/J
So 3500K is probably in between, something like 4.6

1W of CXB3590 3500K CD @48.85W at 56% efficiency gives: 1*0.56*4.6 = 2.576 ppf/W

2) Osram hyper red 3T give 5.48 umol/J
@350mA they have 54% efficiency ...

So 1W of that gives : 1*0.54*5.48 = 2.959 ppf/W

In those conditions : Osram Deep Red gives off 15% more photons per watt than CXB3590 CD 3500K
Shocked ? :lol:


My conclusion:

Some will keep it eZ, that's fine. Some like to get creative, and that's fine too.

In the end the right style, is to do it your way. The RealStYle is keeping it yo' style ;)

:peace:
wow
Ur answer appeared in heavenly mode to me I was really lost that advertisement of cree fuking cobs because I dont have acces to them in my country plus cargo fees worldwide ridicolus amounts
But I have access to osram oslon ssl 80degree - tell me please does it worth to build from oslons like
50 hyper red 30 deep blue few whites totally 100 led ?
 
Top