Which tape sticks to grow tents?

1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
GreenestBasterd said:
Plus, if the tent is a dark room it’s like a cheap planetarium when the lights are on.
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True, but those holes have a way of disappearing when you zip yourself inside the tent. High power grow light blasting out from inside the tent, normal room light trying to get in from the outside... It makes a big difference, I can't see anything inside my tent.
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
DrDukePHD said:
That stuff looks amazing & American made. Ill definitely get some later. Just a bit out of my price range right now.
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Yeah it's not cheap but you do get a huge roll of quality tape. I often have ends of rolls that I collect from jobs and such, so usually forget that it's $20/roll.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Find some matching canvas or fabric, for patching on the outside of a tent, or the sewable reflective mylar strips they sell for like roadside workers/bicyclist's jackets for on the inside.

Cut to whatever size tape/patch needed, and melt any frayed out cuts on the ends of the fabrics if there is any.

Then, use either rubber contact cement (applied to both mating surfaces first), or good ol' 3M 90 spray adhesive to glue the patches on.

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I think that would be better than any tape, or trying to sew.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
If there was that many holes though, I would just line the inside walls with 1/2" mylar faced (textured to scatter light) r-tech rigid foam insulation panels that cost like 10-15 a sheet.

Four 4x8" sheets worth would cover inside a 4x4 tent, but you would loose a small negligible amount of total sq ft.

Cut out any holes, ports, or seams needed. Use velcro to install it, for easy removal when needed. Especially around access entryways, that might need to fold away to access, etc..

Should be such a tight fit, if you measured and cut properly, that you don't even need to tape off any corners/seams.

Having an extra insulated tent with higher R-values is so much better than not. Benefits like sound deadening, sealing off and using c02 w/ AC efficiently, and more overall control of the environment inside no matter what kind of system or location. Higher CFM fans without the walls sucking in from negative pressure... The list goes on.
 
DrDukePHD

DrDukePHD

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
If there was that many holes though, I would just line the inside walls with 1/2" mylar faced (textured to scatter light) r-tech rigid foam insulation panels that cost like 10-15 a sheet.

Four 4x8" sheets worth would cover inside a 4x4 tent, but you would loose a small negligible amount of total sq ft.

Cut out any holes, ports, or seams needed. Use velcro to install it, for easy removal when needed. Especially around access entryways, that might need to fold away to access, etc..

Should be such a tight fit, if you measured and cut properly, that you don't even need to tape off any corners/seams.

Having an extra insulated tent with higher R-values is so much better than not. Benefits like sound deadening, sealing off and using c02 w/ AC efficiently, and more overall control of the environment inside no matter what kind of system or location. Higher CFM fans without the walls sucking in from negative pressure... The list goes on.
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I think I might do this next run. Thanks
 
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