What Do you think about KELLOGG PREMIUM POTTING SOIL?

California's state flower and biggest cash crop Blooming & Flowering Nutes with Cheap-o Crystal Stacker
My plants all started flowering at the same time. One week in bloom and now everything changes:
Note: My plants have only received non-organic Jack's 20-20-20 (veg) and (non-organic) Jack's 10-30-20 (bloom) + Silica, and Cal-Mag, and Tap water only. I don't even Ph it any more. The city water tests at about 6.7 or 6.8 more often than not and contains chloromine's which are rumored to cause nutrient block within the root system. But here, we have it fairly green in their first week of flower. The danger of starting AquGold finisher too early, is that the leaves may yellow before harvest (add 20-20-20 for one feeding). Or starting AG too late, the leaves won't yellow before harvest.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KOVO7Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now that they've begun flowering it's time to change over to Jack's (non-organic) Aqua-Gold. First, I'll pump-spray them with TetraSan translaminar miticide (travels through both sides of the leaf!) Note: Cease™ (7.5 ml/qt) can also be mixed with TetraSan (1/4 tsp/qt.) when spraying.
The plants are needing water, but I'll spray them first, and they'll drink-up thinking it's H2o. Here's the AquaGold instructions:
"Now that you are planning on switching over to the AquaGold Finisher, there are two ratios to follow: One for the AquaGold, and the other for the Epsom Salts (cheap-o crystal stacker). If you water by hand, using your watering can, you should be using 3/4 TSP of AquaGold and 1 TSP of Epsom salts per gallon of water.
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However, if you are using the Syponx, the dosage will be much higher in your one gallon concentrate jug. I would suggest using 1/4 cup of AquaGold, and 1/3 cup of Epsom salts added to one gallon of water in your jug. You should use hot water to mix everything up when first mixed, then vigorously shake numerous times. Even so, you may still see some residue in the bottom of your concentrate jug. Don't worry about the residue.

(Do NOT top off the one gallon concentrate jug with plain water, after your initial or secondary watering and fertilizing.)

When you go to use the concentrate jug with the Syphonx the second, third, or fourth time, you will for sure find residue at the bottom -- as when the water cools, the AquaGold and Epsom Salts will fall out of solution, and go into suspension. I suggest that you place the jug out in the sun to heat up the water, then put the cap on the jug and shake vigorously again -- before watering/fertilizing with the Syphonx.

Hopefully, the Vanilla Kush is a 60-65 day finisher -- but don't be surprised if it takes longer for the trichs to go cloudy, and perhaps some percentage going amber. (Not all strains go amber -- but they will go brown, which is too long.)

As for the other two Sativa strains, well, we'll both be watching to see if it takes 90 - 120 days to finish. If you have to use the 20-20-20 to green them up, only do it once." - farmer

Of note: None of the packaged potting soils have enough perlite included. I add 25% perlite to my Kellogg's. It helps the roots move faster and creates a bigger root ball. Wear a canister mask when mixing the stuff. Shown is Fox Farms, but Kellogg's looks the same mixed. Lots of perlite and watering twice a week, full drench.

Moldy said:

Yeah, I've seen it in HD and Lowes but I use Dr. Earth, the Aloe Vera stuff. Hard to find is the one containing yucca extracts. It has all sorts of goodies and the producer even recommends to make teas using worm casting, etc. I add castings, perlite, (some already in there but not much), vermiculite, 5-5-5 Dr. Earth organic ferts, fish emulsions, icelandic kelp meal, chicken manure soil and that's all I can remember right now.

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I used Dr Earth last year. Started with the bag in your pic but ended with buying just the Dr Earth compost and adding equal amounts of peat and perlite. Worked great.

Got the red and yellow bag of Kellogg's this year. Threw a Sour Kosher in a #3 and let in veg a couple weeks then started carrying it to the shed 7 weeks ago. Works for me. LOL

That's not a lot of soil in there Hoare. 3-gallon containers will grow a plant, I reckon. Do you water it about 3-times a week? The perlite is not good to breathe, but I already said that. Green houses grow them big. Nice plant.
I..uh...in that avatar, is the cop strangling a "perp", or attaching a medal of valor? Puzzled.

Here is a hot set-up for using the Dramm wand. You'll need a pressure regulator. This one is factory set at 41 psi and really works well. I'll leave the pressure at 41. If no pressure regulator is used, then it can and will blow the plastic check-vale apart. The Dramm wand and it's small head will jam oxygen and nutes down into the soil quickly.

HydraGlide voices concerns over the lasting effectiveness of TetraSan after one spray application 1-week ago:
"I see colonies of dead aphids still and very few moving, and I think I'll wait until Aug. 20 which is about 4-wks from the initial spraying of Tetra and instead drench two times over a period of a couple days, with Kontos.
I can then spray Spinosad and BT together then on the same day?"

Farmer: If you are seeing "colonies of dead aphids and very few moving," that means the TetraSan is working as it should.

You can spray the TetraSan again this week, and it will continue protecting your gals from mites and aphids. You can probably also safely spray it once more in about two weeks. I strongly urge you to save the Kontos drench until you are closer to a month away from harvest.

Are you seeing any bud worms, aka caterpillars? If you are seeing any butterflies or moths flying around your yard, then you can safely assume that at least one has deposited some eggs on your gals. Both the Spinosad as well as the BT will take care of that problem, but you need not use both. This is basically, an either/or situation. I also suggest that you spray Cease with either the Spinosad or the BT --- along with the TetraSan.

At this point in the life of your gals (2-weeks into flower), being as they are at the beginning of flowering, you do not have a whole lot of options to use for mites and aphids. Spraying TetraSan now will not damage the budsites, but later on when you are in full blown flower, it can have an adverse effect.

It's all about the timing -- and that is why I previously suggested you save the Kontos drench for the later stages of flowering.

I strongly urge you to become familiar with what is commonly called IPM (Integrated Pest Management) (alternating insecticides) to avoid those aphids and mites from becoming acclimated to any miticide. The TetraSan is a good product, as I don't envision those pests from becoming acclimated to how the TetraSan kills mites and aphids. But the Kontos is different, and being as you will be using it as a drench during heavy flowering, save that one for last."

HydraGlide: Should I be leaving the water leaves on now or removing them?

Yes, I leave the water leafs on the gals until just before harvest -- or until they become a "sink" when they turn yellow. It's those water leafs that collect energy from the sun and result in photosynthesis."
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I'm draping 6x trellis soft netting over the 2x4 cages and fastening them in to a pigtail fastened to the edge of a smartPot. like I've seen Doublejj post on this site. I also have 3.5 sq. soft netting, maybe for the outermost bud-heavys towards November.

Hoare said:

Got the red and yellow bag of Kellogg's this year. Threw a Sour Kosher in a #3 and let in veg a couple weeks then started carrying it to the shed 7 weeks ago. Works for me. LOLView attachment 3990505 View attachment 3990506

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Thats Kellogs Garden Soil?

AnimalMother1974 said:

Thats Kellogs Garden Soil?

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Kellog Raised Bed and Potting Mix

AnimalMother1974 said:

Thats Kellogs Garden Soil?

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Sorry man, I just got the post-notice in my email. Hoare's correct: It's Kelloggs RAISED BED AND POTTING MIX. Use no other. Peace and good farming.
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FYi my Nov. crop cam out nice. Did get a little "brown rot" on some during that last 10th or 11th week of bloom. Should have stayed on it with "Cease" but I got busy, and the rot got busy. Brown rot to me, is when just the sugar leaves begin turning dark brown with bubbly-black starting to show. Any "brown rot" has to be removed or the inhale burns your nostrils for about 30-min.
Also:
A. Black or Brown rot makes terrific bubble hash. There's nothing else to be done with bud rot, but make bubble.
B. If you let your buds grow to amber trichs, the stuff cures and strengthens in 6-months. Like crazy man. I have Panama Red that's bomb, but it took 6-months of curing to become jar-able. Yeah the stuff ages under cool conditions, but, I think the slow-cure caused by keeping them with 62 RH packs delayed the full-cure, and that was a good thing, Martha. Because when I opened the jar under low RH conditions, the material was breaking apart and turning to dust. I Like 62 RH packs, and they last a long time.

The kellogg potting soil at my local home depot always smells like sewage with gray mold growing on it. I think its because it sits in all the rain we get. The stuff literally makes everything I put in it die unless I amend it a bunch. I've complained to the company about this.

waterproof808 said:

The kellogg potting soil at my local home depot always smells like sewage with gray mold growing on it. I think its because it sits in all the rain we get. The stuff literally makes everything I put in it die unless I amend it a bunch. I've complained to the company about this.

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You ever try heat sterilizing it first? Then add good organisms back in as a tea.

hydra-glide said:

Use (1) tblspn of Jack's 1-30-20 bloom, or 20-20-20 veg. nutes well-shaken, in the (1) gal. milk bottle with an 1/8" vent-hole drilled in top of the cap. The 15' garden hose will let you drag the nutes to each plant leaving the gal. jug sitting on a firm surface. - Wrong!!!
Correction:
Use (1/2) tblsp of Jack's 10-30-20 bloom, or 20-20-20 veg. nutes into the (1) gal. milk bottle with an 1/8" vent-hole drilled in top of the cap. Fill 3/4 of full with ordinary, non-Ph'd chlorined, or even chloromined, tap water. Put your fingers over any holes in the cap and shake it violently. Make sure all of the nutes are dissolved.
The 15' garden hose will let you drag the nutes to each plant leaving the gal. jug sitting on a firm surface.

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Do you still use this formula today??

Yes. Unfortunately, I let time elapse before I could go back and correct that 1-30-20 bloom blunder. It is indeed 10-30-20 bloom, and yes I would use the exact same method and insecticides and mildewcide and bud-rot deterrent explained in this posting link included.
I had a very successful crop growing in cages on wheels and I wouldn't take back any recommendations in the entire article. Please remember, that I learned everything I know (but the fan-leaf removals, which my mentor disagreed with) from a successful and retired greenhouse grower in the San Bernardino mountains whose only advice he followed was from scientific botanic articles that all ended with the suffix (.edu) education based
However, because my shop prevented the evening sun from hitting the plants (4:30 pm on) and cast the greenhouse into the shade, I decided to end my growing hobby for indoor, because there is no greenhouse weed I can grow that's going to be as strong and robust and long-lasting as, i.e; Motor Breath grown under hot HPS lighting. Although, this last grow shown in the linked post has made terrific bubble hash, so save the leaves if encrusted. All of those crystal ladened leaves you see, shed gobs of trichomes, and enjoyable from 190 down to 25u.
Always glad to give an opinion. Grow-on my friends, it's fun and healthy.

hydra-glide said:

Yes. Unfortunately, I let time elapse before I could go back and correct that 1-30-20 bloom blunder. It is indeed 10-30-20 bloom, and yes I would use the exact same method and insecticides and mildewcide and bud-rot deterrent explained in this posting link included.
I had a very successful crop growing in cages on wheels and I wouldn't take back any recommendations in the entire article. Please remember, that I learned everything I know (but the fan-leaf removals, which my mentor disagreed with) from a successful and retired greenhouse grower in the San Bernardino mountains whose only advice he followed was from scientific botanic articles that all ended with the suffix (.edu) education based
However, because my shop prevented the evening sun from hitting the plants (4:30 pm on) and cast the greenhouse into the shade, I decided to end my growing hobby for indoor, because there is no greenhouse weed I can grow that's going to be as strong and robust and long-lasting as, i.e; Motor Breath grown under hot HPS lighting. Although, this last grow shown in the linked post has made terrific bubble hash, so save the leaves if encrusted. All of those crystal ladened leaves you see, shed gobs of trichomes, and enjoyable from 190 down to 25u.
Always glad to give an opinion. Grow-on my friends, it's fun and healthy.

What Do you think about KELLOGG PREMIUM POTTING SOIL?

I've been using the raised bed potting mix for a couple years. It's cheaper than the EB Stone Composting Bales, has basically the same ingredients. I mix it with a 50/50 blend of native soil and composted manure, perlite and rabbit poo. Plants are happy.

www.rollitup.org

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And thats 1/2 TABLEspoon (1.5 teaspoons) of Jack's 20-20-20 per gallon of water for outdoor plants?