That pump is a good deal.
Glad to see you guys are not taking my advice on using a proper pump TACO OR B&GJust really great injinuity took me awhile to read here I am at the end, I have one question why have not any of you guys running this system experimented with hydronic bolier pumps Like Taco or B&G , they are very resonable in price 50 t0 70 $ and all the moving parts are made of brass, they move 180 deg water on average and a residental size pump can push 3 storys easaly designed to on and off many times a day. may be I missng something ?, Oh and legallyflying ,most likly the reason you have problems with your gas valve solenoid , is that you do not have a drip leg on your gas line ,so you are moving a bit of moisture threw your gas valve, if you go back to post that is like 100 or so a guy showed a piping diagram to a gas water heater , he was talking about taking the plug off and tapping in , Big No that is a drip line by code it must be installed ,but that what you need to do ,gas mains have lots of water in them because there under pressure and as they travel the pressure is reduced and even reduced at your house so pressure and temp inside the pipe changes and crating water,any how get a T and a 6inch nipple and a cap install like the diagram , I dont no SH about growing but learning here ,but over 30 yrs HVAC exper.
I think my pump(s) and heater are designed to be used with garden hose size tubing. I also think the most recent pump I had was specifically designed for use with an on demand water heater.Glad to see you guys are not taking my advice on using a proper pump TACO OR B&G
Your Pump and water heater Premature failures are do to :
1] improper Sizing of supply and return lines
2) Improper pump GPM rating.
Its all about moving the water at the proper GPM , the faster you move the water = less heat transfer in both cooling and heating your water witch in the case of the water heater will have premature failure by passing the water to fast through the heater , and reverse effect on your cooling tanks =moving the water to fast will hinder the cooling of the water. Improper return line size will cause premature failure to the pump along with incorrect GPM.
you should properly size the piping ,pump to the rated flow of the heater (GPM) and add the capacity of your cooling tanks in to the equation
also the pump should be installed on the return side of the system.
But again what the hell do I know.
You can't go wrong with a taco pump. They are top of the line and designed for continuous use and high temps. You should listen to those with more experience than you.Fuck that taco pump. I am going to order a pump that is designed to be used with a tankless water heater on an RV. If that can't run my damn set up then I don't know what can.
If you reread the post by jrainman you'll see that he was referring to low flow causing premature failure not high flow. Low flow would cause overheating and thus....failure.I don't see how moving water too fast through the unit will cause premature failure. I especially don't see how it will cause premature failure of the pump.
Are you sure the pump should be on the return side of the system? That seems so counter intuitive to me. I thought the principal of operation of the heater was that it required a minimum water pressure in order to ignite the burner. How do you generate any pressure at all from the return side?
I dont think so. He said:If you reread the post by jrainman you'll see that he was referring to low flow causing premature failure not high flow. Low flow would cause overheating and thus....failure.
As far as him referring to the return side I believe he is thinking in hvac terminology where the cold water inlet is return. The hot water outlet would be considered supply. Yes you need the pump on the cold water inlet to provide pressure for the burner to ignite... obviously.
Been running a hydrogen for three years drain to waste. Still working great. (knock wood)
He says that faster water will cause less heat transfer and cause the heater to fail. That's not true. Faster flow will cause more heat transfer. Regardless I haven't even had any problems with my heater. My problem has been with pumps constantly failing.Its all about moving the water at the proper GPM , the faster you move the water = less heat transfer in both cooling and heating your water witch in the case of the water heater will have premature failure by passing the water to fast through the heater ,
Water water everywhere. It's not getting destroyed, it's simply being sent back to the processing facility. That same water has been through dinosaurs, the ocean, glaciers, hitler, and now your water heater.I hear what your saying rainman but your assumptions are wrong.
1. I DO have a drip leg on my NG line. The gas solenoid was just faulty.
2. I have 1/2 " lines (garden hose) coming in and out of the system
3. It's not about the efficiency of heating or cooling the water, it's really about GPM of the pump. Higher GPM then the system can pass creates back pressure which causes pump failure.
Drain to waste? I don't know how I would sleep at night knowing I was wasting that much water.
How is using something that is designed for continuous use and high temps (which are not the conditions my pump runs under btw) better than a different pump that is designed to run under my exact conditions?You can't go wrong with a taco pump. They are top of the line and designed for continuous use and high temps. You should listen to those with more experience than you.
Or keep buying sub-par equipment and wonder why it keeps burning up.