Twisteds grow

twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
max420thc said:
I wish i had a copy of that shore line.OUTSTANDING job growing it beach.
In hydro that biatch would be a straight fucking critter,
If you have to chill your res. You will want to insulate the res well.It will help your chiller from running as much.
If you use ZONE or H2O2. you will not have to worry about Pithium or other bad bacteria building up in your res.Zone works well used at the rate of 2 ml per gallon.
This can allow you to run a little higher temp in your res.But still 75 is the max for me.I have found if i separate the rez from the grow room helps me keep temps lower..at least in a basement.
If you can Shock the root system from time to time with cold water it will push the plant to give up more resin to protect itself from the oncoming cold winter.
What i mean by shock is around 50 to 55 degree F water temps.
I agree with Beach.I want my PH to range some also.
I am running some hygrozyme along with the zone with outstanding results.You can not run mycos with zone or h2o2.It will just kill them.
If you run a AC in the summer time you could if you had duct work run a duct run on top of the res using it to cool the res with.(just a idea)
If the temps are to high in the winter and you need to run the A/C you will need to set the A/C up with low temperature controls.
Dehumidificetion or a humidifier ,Many times in areas that are hard to keep warm they lack humidity in the air.This is need for proper bud development.In the 50% range.
In the summer there may be to much humidity in the air and it may need to be removed.Some growers use the collected moisture in their res.It is pure water,
Click to expand...
Thanks! I only need the ac for summer and I'll just drop it into the window up there. My attic has been pretty tricky to maintain humidity so far. Instead of coling the grow room directly, I plan to add another wall to separate it completely from the attic space. The ac will control that room and be pulled into the grow area. What I'm hoping this does is help create some better humidity conditions. Not sure if it makes sense but it kinda does in my head. It's cold outside and warm in my house and moisture builds on the glass......moisture would be pulled into the air in the grow room....?
my chiller should do an awesome job with little effort. I used it to cool my 180 gal fish tank that had 2 400 halides over it. It's a bit over kill but should be balls on for temp.
 
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max420thc

Well-Known Member
Im not sure how it will work.You will need 3.4 BTUs of cooling per watt of power used by the lamps.Plus you will need the BTUs from your cooling unit to cover the heat gain of the attic in the summer.
Heat will hold more moisture than cold air.When it is cold outside even though it is snowing all the moisture in the air has precipitated out of the air.
Gas heat has a way of drying out the air.The flames and type of heat that is used will dry the humidity out of the air.
Sounds like a bad ass chiller.I have a little one i never use.So long as you can control temps in the res under 75 or 70 F. you should not have any problems with pythium or any bad bacteria building up. Making it easier to use mycos.
Im sure im preaching to the choir and you know what you are doing.But id make sure i had separate circuits for the chiller,and A/C.
You can get a wall plug in day night temperature stat that will allow you to control the temps of your room at night.
If you can get a 15 degree drop in temps during lights off this will greatly increase the quality potency and resin content of your plants.
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
I'll have to set my room temp a little lower. I've been doing about an 8-10 deg drop. I have two dedicated lines running up stairs plus an addition 20 amp on the other side of the room. My light runs off 220 and I can at a line with that for addition 120v. Today I start clearing out the attic. It's a wreck up there....lol and down to my last bowl until harvest.....I gotta move to a med state. Mine is a med state but absolute bullshit to card a card.
 
SOMEBEECH

SOMEBEECH

Well-Known Member

  • Gas heat has a way of drying out the air.The flames and type of heat that is used will dry the humidity out of the air.

    Electric strips are A LOT Worse,@ removing Humidity.
    from a space.Makes ya,All ashey...LOL
    Beech​




 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
Didn't get too far today with the attic .dude came over to buy a few corals from me and made an offer I couldn't refuse on selling him the entire tank...lmao, funny ass day
 

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max420thc

Well-Known Member
Coral is pretty.Sounds like you have your power down.
It can be hard to control temps and humidity in a attic.The summer time is going to be a biatch.
Getting the right size a/c is going to be critical.So a load calculation on the attic space will be a must.
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever done outdoor hydro? I've been thinking about it....I know sun on the system would cause algae but if the system was dyi to be in the ground, it would stay cool and you have the best grow light of all.

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twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
Thanks max! Yeah I do power as part of my pool builds. Im not a trician but do all up to the service then he checks out my work and hooks it up.

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max420thc

Well-Known Member
You will need the surface area of the floors..ceilings and walls..the type of construction they are made out of and type of insulation that is in the walls..floors..ceilings.
You will also need the geographic location that will give you average winter and summer temps .That will determine the HTM(heat transfer multiplier) This will allow you to size the room for proper cooling capacity.
You can find the information in the manual J. for residential load calculations.For heating and air conditioning of a structure.
Of course do not forget to add in the additional load from the electrical use from appliances to determine load.
Tests have been done at different temp levels i have seen and read.
A 15 F temp drop will increase average potency of around 3 to 4 %.THC
If you can lower your humidity levels with lights off will increase it even more.Although i have not seen any formal studys on it..i have seen the results first hand.
It can be hard to lower humidity levels with lights off.I can long winded as to why.It has to do with dew points though.
The target area is around the 50% humidity range.Anything outside of that and you will suffer reduced production and or quality.To high you lose your resin.To low..and you lose your production.
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
max420thc said:
You will need the surface area of the floors..ceilings and walls..the type of construction they are made out of and type of insulation that is in the walls..floors..ceilings.
You will also need the geographic location that will give you average winter and summer temps .That will determine the HTM(heat transfer multiplier) This will allow you to size the room for proper cooling capacity.
You can find the information in the manual J. for residential load calculations.For heating and air conditioning of a structure.
Of course do not forget to add in the additional load from the electrical use from appliances to determine load.
Tests have been done at different temp levels i have seen and read.
A 15 F temp drop will increase average potency of around 3 to 4 %.THC
If you can lower your humidity levels with lights off will increase it even more.Although i have not seen any formal studys on it..i have seen the results first hand.
It can be hard to lower humidity levels with lights off.I can long winded as to why.It has to do with dew points though.
The target area is around the 50% humidity range.Anything outside of that and you will suffer reduced production and or quality.To high you lose your resin.To low..and you lose your production.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I'm in a pretty stable zone then for this grow. I'm running around 47-56 in humidity. Not much I can do with this current grow since it's just makeshift but so far so good. Lights out seems to hit around 60 but the humidifier runs 24 hrs. I'll set that with a timer to shut off with the light.
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
I've decided to do a seperate grow chamber next to the flower chamber. It will be 3*3 with a 6 bulb tek t5 fixture. I'm currently using it on a fish tank but it comes down on Saturday. I'll get this finished first so I can start some new beans. Gonna try some new strains. Not sure what yet.
I'm thinking on Cali connect strain of blackwater, and something ak and bb. I don't know....so many strains out there lol

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twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
So, the veg chamber. I have a 6 bulb t5 for this and since I have coral bulbs, new ones are on the list. The bulbs I have now are between 12 and 15k. Is there any use for that spec? If not I'll give them away. I'm starting to get excited as I draw closer to this. My list is almost complete. Instead of the soil I've been using which is old pig farm soil,perlite and some beads, I'm thinking something new. I'm also close to deciding on my strains to grow. Its between Tahoe og, blackberry kush, headband, chem 40g and blackwater. I'll keep two strains going. I'm pretty decided on blue widow as a stand by strain.

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twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
Day 12 of flower. I fed last night with ro water along with 600 ppm of a mix of super bloom and 1 tsp unsulphered molasses. Plants are right on schedule with dime size flowers. I love openining the door and getting that smell,of Turkish fruit that the Durga Mata brings. Durga Mata is one of my first indoor strains from 5 yearn ago. Fell in love with her and stayed in love. It really compliments the stinky widow. And as a stand alone strain is an amazing smoke. So smooth, abundance of taste that leaves you licking your lips after a sesh. And it's such a hearty strain. Yes, I'm in love with a goddess...Durga Mata
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
Ah, ah, it is what it is with this grow. The fuct up one doesn't seem to be behind and is actually even with the other. I should have super cropped the smaller one like I usually do but just dropped the ball on it this time.
image.jpg
 

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SxIstew

SxIstew

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Maybe a bit of high humidity/over watering... but the texture to some of the leaves makes me think heavy N as well... what have you tried to correct her? Any pH readings taken??
 
twistedentities

twistedentities

Well-Known Member
SxIstew said:
Maybe a bit of high humidity/over watering... but the texture to some of the leaves makes me think heavy N as well... what have you tried to correct her? Any pH readings taken??
Click to expand...
I didn't do much to correct other than letting the soil dry out real well. Watered no nutes just ro/di for the first time in 5 days Ph is 6.9. I'm pretty sure water and N are the issue. I'll see what happens this week. This strain kicks it up on the 3rd week.
 
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