Thank you for your advice! I will read this thread front to back to make sure every key detail is adhered. Even if it takes a few different setups in different locations. Just found a UL heater 20W, different models with higher watts. Stego Enclosure Heaters, CSK 060 Series
I was thinking the pallets were counting against me too due to oxygen and just not standing up secure.
Have you seen shriveled and twisted stems bounce back like my last photo? It is the first cutting to root outside the pallet.
You're almost there-you got roots, now you just need to perfect a few things and a lightbulb will go on over your head and suddenly you will be amazed at how fast and easy cloning is. You get those rotting looking stems from being too moist. Heaters aren't necessary in the summer-just be careful when you first use it because I've seen a lot of clones/seedlings cooked by mat type heaters-I used to use one during the winter with a folded towel on top of it, between the heater and the dome. Just try to keep them around 80 degrees, with a mild light-like a t5 above it. Spray the inside of the dome only when it starts to dry up-if get some root riot or rapid rooter cubes, soak them in 6.5 ph water overnight, then squeeze out most of the water-you want just a few drips coming out when squeezing it. Then take the clones normally, dip in gel/powder, etc. Bigger clones root faster, no doubt about it, so try to use bigger cuttings when practicing-it's fine to use dinky cuttings if you have nothing else, but you are hampering your efforts. With root riot cubes, you'll only need to re-moisten them every other day or maybe every 2 days-this lets them dry out a little which encourages root growth. Then just spray the cubes with ph 6.5 water, and then gently, squeeze most of the water back out-this helps keep the PH where you want it, seedlings don't like it when things get too acidic from the peat. I've said it before, but it's worth repeating-Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide (it's a natural, rhizobacteria, no chemicals) helps a lot in the rooting process, and it's worth using in the water for the seedling, and in the water you spray inside your dome-it really does keep pathogens from developing in that moist environment.
I usually clone using moistened Pro-Mix HP in 5" diameter starter pots - but with some friends requesting cuts this time I wasn't able to fit 16 of those starter pots under the dome. Hence the use of the rockwool.
and the very best luck to you with all of your endeavor be looking forward to seeing what you do next 
Is distilled vs tap splitting hairs on this one? What about when the roots show, when would you add nutes, when they are fully aclimated? Read that roots need to develop more to actually pull up water and feeding too early can stund root growth. I know it could be wrong, but just clarifying because I am going to try this out.
That reminds me, I saw some use small pots to give it time to veg, I don’t like that the roots can dry out and only have a small puck to fill in. I was thinking having multiple domes would help seperate cuttings in different phases of rooting but then again with fast result methods it shouldn’t happen like this expirience I am having. Or until the rooted one died, now they all match lol. Only hoping a pinched stem can bounce back.
Don't take them out of the dome at the first sign of roots popping through-wait until you have a bunch popping through the cube, that way it has enough of a root system to support it outside of the dome without wilting. Keep an eye on your clones when you first take them out of the dome and repot them because sometimes they might wilt and you'll need to cover them asap with a ziploc. This happens usually if you keep the cuttings in a very high RH environment, they actually need to be "hardened" off into normal room RH. That usually doesn't happen, but it's worth knowing. I start feeding them from the moment I plant the cubes into their first pot. I use coco and I run plenty .8 EC nutrient solution through the coco a day before I transplant the cube from the dome. Let the plant's roots seek out that moisture-you might not need to feed again for several days-wait until the pot lightens up.
The last part, I might not ba able to follow I use full coco and perlite, with more coco in it than perlite and when fully saturated it still remains perfect h20 and co2 levels, drying the coco raises EC and dries the root out in my media. I prepare it myself and rinse it good, so it is mostly large fibers. Also my mfg says .4 .5 EC for the first week then increase, so I am weighing that out. I thought young seedlings did not need much feed or daily, but they grew in every direction significantly, daily, like supposed to when feeding daily.
Southern Ag GFF is a more concentrated version of Hydroguard, it's typically a much better value, same bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
Uhm, I keep my pucks soaked. You can keep clones in plain water so I don't see why the pucks would be too wet.
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My guess is more oxygen, I think that is what that person meant, kind of like why I noticed fast growth with coco, having good oxygen levels. Haven’t grown many plants in my life but wow, mine grow so fast they need time to turn to their normal green color lol. For a indica photo period, pretty quick. Now I cannot wait to see how fast my auto seeds grow lol.
If they have no roots then there are no roots to use up the oxygen.
I do have some roots though, they have to be small and just not visable yet (I think so because two rooted that I can see. My guess is that the root riot cubes help them pop out the puck faster with roots which is part of the issue here, being day 17.
This is great advice. if you are having some success now, get a jar of Clonex. I almost bet a Raven with a Razor blade and a healthy plant could be trained to take clones with ClonexJust to throw something else at you that might help View attachment 5162230and the very best luck to you with all of your endeavor be looking forward to seeing what you do next