Timber Owners Group.

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race winslow

race winslow

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You're right the canopy penetration is amazing. Turning these to full power it's easy to see. Plus when configured with enough green light in the spectrum you get further canopy penetration. When I bought the Fatty, I also bought an HLG 600w Scorpion R-Spec. I sent the R-Spec back. I know a lot of people love HLG and their lights apparently work great for them. But for me once I had them side by side, the Fatty was the clear choice for me. Not knocking HLG. They were great to work with on the return and have well made products. Unless something drastically changes I'll be sticking with Timber for a long time to come.
 
lakesidegrower

lakesidegrower

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Have heard nothing but good things - they look so damn cool too lol
I'm a noob to the color temp configurations; what would a 'standard' set up look like to take from late-veg to flower?
 
race winslow

race winslow

Well-Known Member
lakesidegrower said:
Have heard nothing but good things - they look so damn cool too lol
I'm a noob to the color temp configurations; what would a 'standard' set up look like to take from late-veg to flower?
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IMO - it would depend on how many lamps that you want in your fixture. For example if you got the Redwood you could use a 4k, 3500k, 2-3k and 2 -1750k. That configuration would provide an average color temp of around 2800k. That should cover late veg and all of flowering.
HOWEVER, before buying I would contact Dan at Timber and discuss what you're trying to accomplish. He will probably have other ideas that may be better. In any case you'd be getting a fully customizable light made to your specifications.
 
lakesidegrower

lakesidegrower

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race winslow said:
IMO - it would depend on how many lamps that you want in your fixture. For example if you got the Redwood you could use a 4k, 3500k, 2-3k and 2 -1750k. That configuration would provide an average color temp of around 2800k. That should cover late veg and all of flowering.
HOWEVER, before buying I would contact Dan at Timber and discuss what you're trying to accomplish. He will probably have other ideas that may be better. In any case you'd be getting a fully customizable light made to your specifications.
Click to expand...
Sounds like Dan’s the man - your explanation makes sense tho - thanks!
 
AKTG

AKTG

Active Member
Hello timber squad , I got the fatty VS 3500K spectrum based on flatrate and renfro recommendation.

question: do you guys use the Timber Fatty VS at seedling stage ? right now I have a sf2000 dimmed down to a 1/3 . Should I turned off my sf2000 , raise my fatty vs to 36” and run it on. 1/4 strength?


two the the seedlings we’re curling up , I think I overfed the nutrients , PPM was 650 , I drained out 5 gallons out of the res , then replaced with plain RO water , ppm is now 440 . Should I lower the ppl more ?
 

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FastFreddi

FastFreddi

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AKTG said:
Hello timber squad , I got the fatty VS 3500K spectrum based on flatrate and renfro recommendation.

question: do you guys use the Timber Fatty VS at seedling stage ? right now I have a sf2000 dimmed down to a 1/3 . Should I turned off my sf2000 , raise my fatty vs to 36” and run it on. 1/4 strength?


two the the seedlings we’re curling up , I think I overfed the nutrients , PPM was 650 , I drained out 5 gallons out of the res , then replaced with plain RO water , ppm is now 440 . Should I lower the ppl more ?
Click to expand...
Hi there...im in soil but as far as your lights. Either choice should work well.
I am currently running an sf2000 (along with a couple of Mars sp150's) in veg, once the size and training is adequate, I then move into my flower room, where I have my Timbers and a couple others.
As long as you acclimate the plants to the more powerful Timbers, you will be fine.
FF
 
race winslow

race winslow

Well-Known Member
AKTG said:
Hello timber squad , I got the fatty VS 3500K spectrum based on flatrate and renfro recommendation.

question: do you guys use the Timber Fatty VS at seedling stage ? right now I have a sf2000 dimmed down to a 1/3 . Should I turned off my sf2000 , raise my fatty vs to 36” and run it on. 1/4 strength?


two the the seedlings we’re curling up , I think I overfed the nutrients , PPM was 650 , I drained out 5 gallons out of the res , then replaced with plain RO water , ppm is now 440 . Should I lower the ppl more ?
Click to expand...
I'm running RDWC culture too. I Ph'd down some water and soaked the rockwool in it for bit before starting seeds. I'm using Cultured Solutions for nutrients. During the first 2 weeks they recommend a ppm of no higher than 200 and Ph around 6.3. As far as light goes, using dimmers is always tricky. To me the best indicator for light placement is leaf temperature. I use an infra red thermometer to measure mine. I'm currently around 69 degrees in early veg. Room temp is about 71. Your leaf and room/ambient temps should be about no more than 3-5 degrees apart. Also, an inline energy meter such as a Killa Watt meter will allow you to see how much amperage and wattage that you are drawing and should help to dial in your light more consistently. Finally, I would use the Fatty. I have mine about 20 inches above the plants and they are showing no stress at about 1/3 power.
 
twentyeight.threefive

twentyeight.threefive

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Just found this thread, glad I did. I was going to ask what you all run your Fatty VS @ in flower? I just ordered an outlet watt meter to see what I'm running at, but currently at ~28 inches to the canopy. I can only guess it's set around 60%-70% .
 
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