The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
LST mean Low Stress Training witch is realy just tieing them down so you end up with a even canopy makeing better use of your light, 2 plants will get big you could do 4 but thats not alot of space for 4 plants if there 12" high they will probaly be more then 12" wide, and you do know they will atleast double in size in flowering right? as for watering it is better to water more often, keeping the coco moist will help pervent problems so id say water once a day, atleast every other day
cheers mate thats helpful think im guna go for the 2 plants might try the LST to. i think i may get away we lettin them grow 5ft in total so do you think i should let them veg till bigger like 18"?
 

acidbox420

Active Member
cheers mate thats helpful think im guna go for the 2 plants might try the LST to. i think i may get away we lettin them grow 5ft in total so do you think i should let them veg till bigger like 18"?
since its such a small space i think at a certain point your canopy will be to thick for the light to get down to all the lower growth but i think you can get away with 18" veg then flower
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
Hi, if you have Canna coco pro plus would you need to start feeding nutes straight away? I have heard so many mixed opinions.

Should seedlings just b fed water for the first 2 weeks of the plants life?
No nutes are need for the first week or 2 when using the pro plus... it has a EC of 1.3 so that should last you for a little while.
im confused just read this, do you feed with nutes from the start or wait 1-2wk? do you think jberry read it wrong and thought he was talkin about terra pro plus?

im usin coco pro plus and dont want to mess up can any other pro plus users help?
 

G37Kush

Active Member
Im lurking around here and there but I only have time for RIU about once a week these days and I know i have probably missed some questions here and on other threads :(

If anyone really needs my help then a private message is probably the best way to grab my attention if i miss/dont respond to a question.

Im still down to help anyone who wants my help... It may take slightly longer for me to respond then it was a few months ago but i will do my best and just PM me if i miss your posts.
This is my first Coco Grow and Ive been having nute deficiencies in all 3 of my plants.

Medium-60% Coco, 40% Perlite, 1 in. of Hydroton.3 Gallon Pots

White Whino- Last watering 3 days ago I flushed with 5 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag PHed down to 5.8. Run-off was 220ppm and PH was 6.0
25in. tall 6 weeks of vegging
photo(32).jpgphoto(33).jpg

White Rhino(2)-Last watering 8 days ago I flushed with 5 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag PHed down to 5.8. Run-off was 230 ppms and PH was 5.9.
15in. tall 5 Weeks in vegging
photo(30).jpgphoto(31).jpg

AK-48-Last watering 10 days ago I watered with 1 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag, 300ppms of Grow Big, and 5ml of Hygrozyme. Run-off was 412 ppms and PH was 6.3.
19in. tall 5 weeks in Vegging
photo(37).jpgphoto(36).jpgphoto(35).jpg

I was planning on flushing the AK-48 plant within the next day or two because she has almost wicked all the water out of her pot. Will flushing the same way I did the other two plants going to help or do you suggest doing something else?

The nutes I have are Grow Big,Tiger Bloom, Big Bloom,Calmag, Hygrozyme, and PH down.

Do I need to be adding Coco fertilizers or is Foxfarm ok? And Ive been using the water,feed,water schedule. Am I supposed to be adding nutes everytime?
I wanna start flowering already but I want to get all 3 plants healthy first.
 

acidbox420

Active Member
This is my first Coco Grow and Ive been having nute deficiencies in all 3 of my plants.

Medium-60% Coco, 40% Perlite, 1 in. of Hydroton.3 Gallon Pots

White Whino- Last watering 3 days ago I flushed with 5 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag PHed down to 5.8. Run-off was 220ppm and PH was 6.0
25in. tall 6 weeks of vegging
View attachment 1198706View attachment 1198710

White Rhino(2)-Last watering 8 days ago I flushed with 5 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag PHed down to 5.8. Run-off was 230 ppms and PH was 5.9.
15in. tall 5 Weeks in vegging
View attachment 1198737View attachment 1198741

AK-48-Last watering 10 days ago I watered with 1 gal of RO water with 150 ppms of Calmag, 300ppms of Grow Big, and 5ml of Hygrozyme. Run-off was 412 ppms and PH was 6.3.
19in. tall 5 weeks in Vegging
View attachment 1198745View attachment 1198746View attachment 1198747

I was planning on flushing the AK-48 plant within the next day or two because she has almost wicked all the water out of her pot. Will flushing the same way I did the other two plants going to help or do you suggest doing something else?

The nutes I have are Grow Big,Tiger Bloom, Big Bloom,Calmag, Hygrozyme, and PH down.

Do I need to be adding Coco fertilizers or is Foxfarm ok? And Ive been using the water,feed,water schedule. Am I supposed to be adding nutes everytime?
I wanna start flowering already but I want to get all 3 plants healthy first.

Why 3 days ago you prolly dont keep the coco moist enough and thats prolly why your haveing problems
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
im confused just read this, do you feed with nutes from the start or wait 1-2wk? do you think jberry read it wrong and thought he was talkin about terra pro plus?

im usin coco pro plus and dont want to mess up can any other pro plus users help?
Hey guys, sorry about the mix up on my end, hopefully i didnt screw anybody up...
I was indeed talking about the Terra Pro and was not even aware of the Coco Pro. I use "Canna Coco Natural". They dont carry the
Coco Pro in my area and im curious if it may only be sold in the UK?

Anyhow, Rhizotonic can be used from the very start amd evem as a seed soak... I would use a small amount of base nutes once the seedling has developed its first or second set of true leaves or starts to lighten in color. Start the base nutes at 1/8 - 1/4 strength and work it up. Your pro plus has a little higher EC then the natural version that i use so be light handed with the feeding at first and dont feed them too early... the seeds themself should have enough nutrients within them to supply itself for the first week at least.

This is the best advise i could give you since i havent actually used the pro plus version of canna coco but according to canna's description, the pro-plus and the natural versions are the same except the pro plus has a slightly higher EC due to a stronger buffering.

Here is the details of the two versions of coco:

Canna Coco NATURAL:

"Coco Natural is manufactured in the same way as Coco Professional Plus. The buffering of CANNA Coco Natural is not as heavy as Coco Professional Plus. Meaning that you have more control over the buffering process. Due to the light buffering and also light pre-soaking this product is a lot lighter. (less water in the bag) You have a little more work in your grow room though by letting it soak in water a bit more. All in all this is a very trustworthy Coco. Just not as easy to use as CANNA Coco Professional Plus."


Canna Coco PROFESSIONAL PLUS:

"CANNA Coco Professional Plus is the professional plant medium that offers the gardener and his plants many advantages. CANNA Coco Professional Plus consists of 100% coco flakes, produced in India while processing coconuts. It is specially prepared for fast growing plants. The production process is subject to strict quality controls so we can vouch for this product?s quality. CANNA Coco Professional Plus is a pure, organic product with a homogeneous structure and has had a full buffering, eliminating the side effects of growing on coir. Thanks to CANNA's unique production process CANNA Coco Professional Plus is free of harmful viruses and soil diseases."
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
g37, If you start adding nutes everytime you water then i think your issues will clear up... you also have a calcium def so i would add a little more cal/mag then you have been using... try 200-250 ppm's.
 

G37Kush

Active Member
I wait until the pot feels light. And the top of the coco is dry. Is coco different to where it has to be moist all the time?
 

JRTokin

Active Member
Hey whats up JB! Good to have you back man! Im not sure whether you could check this out and let me know what you think?

Been having no end of problems, but now starting to see yellowing of lower leaves with brown spots which eventually go brown crisp and then die. Been upping nutes to compensate what thought was a nute issue curently feeding at 1.8 EC (on most tolerant strain 1.6 on others) 2 weeks into flowering with cal mag at 0.5EC.

Had massive issues with the PH, Despite flushing twice have been unable to get this under 6.7 on one of the plants. all plants range from 6.4 - 6.9 Currently in 2nd week of flower.

Heres some of the leaves which were picked off the bottom of the plant since last week

DSCN2865.jpgDSCN2863.jpgDSCN2862.jpgDSCN2864.jpg

Leaves are now also developing brown spots in between veins, not on edges and are still yellowing only on bottom, top growth seems healthy.

If you could help me out i would really appreciate this been racking my brain for a week thinking what to do and not wanting to make this worse by taking the wrong course of action.
 

G37Kush

Active Member
So in coco soil I have to add my nutes everytime I water and not every other watering? And since my AK-48 plant had a PH of 6.3 last time. I wanted to flush to bring the PH down to 5.8. What should I be putting in the 5gal flush mix? Last time I used 150ppms of Calmag and ph down to 5.8. Should I be adding grow big and hygrozyme also?
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
So in coco soil I have to add my nutes everytime I water and not every other watering? And since my AK-48 plant had a PH of 6.3 last time. I wanted to flush to bring the PH down to 5.8. What should I be putting in the 5gal flush mix? Last time I used 150ppms of Calmag and ph down to 5.8. Should I be adding grow big and hygrozyme also?
-coco isnt soil, it's shredded coconut coir fiber.
-yes add nutes everytime u water.
-I wouldnt worry about flushing, just mix up your nutrients at normal strength and adjust the ph to aprox. 5.8, then water enough that u get a good amount of run off.

I cant remember any details about fox farm nutrients off the top of my head so i cant advise you on that.
You can use the hygrozyme... it is a enzyme product for breaking down dead root matter so it can be used anytime as long as the plant has established decent roots. Most people start using enzyme products around the time they stop using a root enhancing product. If you weren't using anything for root health then one may want to begin the enzyme sooner.

It looks like you could use a boost in Phosphorous and Calcium... maybe more. Just up your cal/mag a bit and up your flowering nutes a little also.
 

LeeroySlim

Active Member
hey mate is great to have u back.

im starting an outdoor coco grow in 100gal pots
my line up is the whole cana range rizo, zyme, PK and boost
im also adding cyco a+b and cyco c a+b are like bushmaster and cyco c is like gravity
ill be runnning cyco swell in the last few weeks its just a flowering inhancer.
what are your thoughts on my line should i add anything to it? im thinking of adding silica for strengthe these plants yield me over 2 pound each indoor so im thinking out door should yield more.
also is it a waste to use a product like bushmaster if hieght isnt an issue?
 

G37Kush

Active Member
Thanx alot jberry. Ya I was getting really worries because my other white rhino and AK-48 were goin almost a week until they were ready to be watered again. Should I still be watering only when the soil gets dry so I don't over-water them?
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, sorry about the mix up on my end, hopefully i didnt screw anybody up...
I was indeed talking about the Terra Pro and was not even aware of the Coco Pro. I use "Canna Coco Natural". They dont carry the
Coco Pro in my area and im curious if it may only be sold in the UK?

Anyhow, Rhizotonic can be used from the very start amd evem as a seed soak... I would use a small amount of base nutes once the seedling has developed its first or second set of true leaves or starts to lighten in color. Start the base nutes at 1/8 - 1/4 strength and work it up. Your pro plus has a little higher EC then the natural version that i use so be light handed with the feeding at first and dont feed them too early... the seeds themself should have enough nutrients within them to supply itself for the first week at least.

This is the best advise i could give you since i havent actually used the pro plus version of canna coco but according to canna's description, the pro-plus and the natural versions are the same except the pro plus has a slightly higher EC due to a stronger buffering.

Here is the details of the two versions of coco:

Canna Coco NATURAL:

"Coco Natural is manufactured in the same way as Coco Professional Plus. The buffering of CANNA Coco Natural is not as heavy as Coco Professional Plus. Meaning that you have more control over the buffering process. Due to the light buffering and also light pre-soaking this product is a lot lighter. (less water in the bag) You have a little more work in your grow room though by letting it soak in water a bit more. All in all this is a very trustworthy Coco. Just not as easy to use as CANNA Coco Professional Plus."


Canna Coco PROFESSIONAL PLUS:

"CANNA Coco Professional Plus is the professional plant medium that offers the gardener and his plants many advantages. CANNA Coco Professional Plus consists of 100% coco flakes, produced in India while processing coconuts. It is specially prepared for fast growing plants. The production process is subject to strict quality controls so we can vouch for this product?s quality. CANNA Coco Professional Plus is a pure, organic product with a homogeneous structure and has had a full buffering, eliminating the side effects of growing on coir. Thanks to CANNA's unique production process CANNA Coco Professional Plus is free of harmful viruses and soil diseases."

hi jberry and thanks for gettin bk to me i thought you must a mest up and thought terra thats why i was askin around , so what do you think of my set up(page 71)?
i hav'nt started my grow yet and want to get every right hopefully so any advice would be great cheers bud
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Hey whats up JB! Good to have you back man! Im not sure whether you could check this out and let me know what you think?

Been having no end of problems, but now starting to see yellowing of lower leaves with brown spots which eventually go brown crisp and then die. Been upping nutes to compensate what thought was a nute issue curently feeding at 1.8 EC (on most tolerant strain 1.6 on others) 2 weeks into flowering with cal mag at 0.5EC.

Had massive issues with the PH, Despite flushing twice have been unable to get this under 6.7 on one of the plants. all plants range from 6.4 - 6.9 Currently in 2nd week of flower.

Heres some of the leaves which were picked off the bottom of the plant since last week

View attachment 1199093View attachment 1199105View attachment 1199120View attachment 1199129

Leaves are now also developing brown spots in between veins, not on edges and are still yellowing only on bottom, top growth seems healthy.

If you could help me out i would really appreciate this been racking my brain for a week thinking what to do and not wanting to make this worse by taking the wrong course of action.
Looks like u got several deficiencies going on Mg N and possible Ca P... Probably partially from lock out due to your high pH, but I also think you may need to raise the strength of your nutes unless you have experienced fert burn at higher a EC. Also, a few heavy waterings with the nutrient solution pH'd to 5.6-5.8 with plenty of run off should pull your pH back to a better range.

Deficiencies are extremely common in the first 2 weeks of flowering.
Foliar feeding with a mild complete/semi-complete nutrient solution or kelp extract will be the fastest and most efficient way to take additional action... You can use epson salt for the Mg def and it should be fine to combine with a kelp product... Compost teas are good too.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
hey mate is great to have u back.

im starting an outdoor coco grow in 100gal pots
my line up is the whole cana range rizo, zyme, PK and boost
im also adding cyco a+b and cyco c a+b are like bushmaster and cyco c is like gravity
ill be runnning cyco swell in the last few weeks its just a flowering inhancer.
what are your thoughts on my line should i add anything to it? im thinking of adding silica for strengthe these plants yield me over 2 pound each indoor so im thinking out door should yield more.
also is it a waste to use a product like bushmaster if hieght isnt an issue?
yea silica is good... just go easy on it cuz it contain K and so does the coco so this can cause lockouts and or burns... You can use it as a foliar if you want but it raises the pH a lot... No matter how you use it, just be sure to add it before your other nutrients or you will get clouding and nutrient fall out.

Bushmaster, Phosphoload, and other products that "stop vertical growth" contain the hormone paclobutrazol which is a Plant Growth Regulator. It produces more compact plants and enhances flowering and fruiting. Used on fruit trees to inhibit vegetative growth and to improve fruit set; on pot-grown ornamentals and flower crops.

This hormone can be tricky to use and cause unwanted effects if used in the wrong dose or at the wrong time (it burns plants easy when using a coco coir medium!)... it can also decrease quality but if it is used just right, it can almost double your yields... Bud rot can also be a issue due to buds being so big and dense and i have seen amazing results with this stuff.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Thanx alot jberry. Ya I was getting really worries because my other white rhino and AK-48 were goin almost a week until they were ready to be watered again. Should I still be watering only when the soil gets dry so I don't over-water them?
no u shouldnt let coco dry out... its hydro so u arent going to overwater them.
 
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