The Dons' Organic Garden

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
Never smoked yet 1st grow pretty sure don saos b4 its got some pk in it amd I think I may be wrong some thing blue frome uk just remember hearing blue thats all I know sonfar looking foreword 2 those pics sorry I dont know more think don t has been really really busy lately
 

Stinky_Jones

Well-Known Member
Ok. I’ll have another look through the thread to see what I can find. For example, are the SSDDs just keepers from one of Bodhi’s packs, or was it a special clone? I’d like to know ASAP though if anyone can help me. I don’t know what any of these are.

The Blue you’re referring to will be UK Livers. It’s a clone only Skunk #1 phenotype found by a bloke in the 80s with surname Liversidge. The same plant UK Cheese and Exodus Cheese etc. came from.

Here is an example of the OPGs. They’re still very young. I topped them and completely defoliated them to slow down their growth and let the branches thicken after these shots were taken. They will be vegged for 8 weeks more or so and by then will be huge, so I’ll be keeping them short and wide.
BC4F53CD-B51F-4131-984D-4AEC74153768.jpeg

After a week...
BD9D10E1-F513-4FB6-9FFE-0AA91416A41C.jpeg

Freshly transplanted...
CB66DA9D-AA12-4991-93FB-8DB8D7896EAF.jpeg

A week or so later...
FCA14A8E-F7D6-46AA-861E-71EC77BE2DD3.png

All three next to each other. These are deep 7” plastic pots. The white powder is diatomaceous earth.5D620551-A7A7-4678-9BD8-101AC3B40A2A.png

OPG #1 - Deep green in colour and a strong odor.DF247948-FD89-4CAC-948F-7D014AEA52E1.jpeg

OPG #2 8A383233-EB7F-40D0-9757-7E83AB8A56AF.jpeg

OPG #3 - same structure as #1 but no odor. I believe it will produce the most, but the depth and flavor of #1 will make it a better smoke.
8A35B02A-ADD2-49E5-BE01-FB37E5CFF145.jpeg
 

Stinky_Jones

Well-Known Member
They're coming along nicely and the growth is extremely fast. If I had a few packets of this strain I would pop 30-50 beans. I only had 6 of the OPGs, if I only get 1 female I will pop the other 3.

I purchased the PG, OPG and a couple of other strains from Jah Earth Collective over email and agreed to test some of Don's strains for him, given I grow organic.

The problem I have is that I only have 5 testers of each strain which isn't a sufficient amount for testing considering 50% are likely to be male which only leaves you with maybe 2-3 females, that's if they all pop. 2-3 females is not enough for a test and smoke report, maybe 10, but not 2 (especially for F1s). In saying that, only 3/5 SSDDs popped because 2 were quite poorly before germinating. So I may only get 1 female. As with the OPGs, every plant will be photographed down to the smoke report.

We'll see what Don says, but I'd rather grow a heap of one strain and focus all my time on that, than finding a couple of females in varied strains. I think it delivers people a truer indication of what they can expect when buying these seeds. Particular phenotypes documented and photographed will attract customers looking for a certain strain.

Either way, for now I will be popping all these testers and keeping this thread updated.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
Cool cant wait im growing in coco so I think it will be interesting 2 compare how thayndo in coco vs organic iv no smell yet at all but thay are small still ill be fillming my 1st toke of jah earth gear tho last pg I did but it died cuse I fucked up it smelt in veg and was a fast rooter and it grew quick
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
Im in coco with a viper nothing special using a one part base a humic and fulvic sup made out of leanordite I thougjt itmwould be cool 2 see how it doas compared 2 dons it wont jabe shit on his im sure that dudes a legend but will be interesting none the less
 

Stinky_Jones

Well-Known Member
OK. What space do you have and how many watts are you pulling from the wall? I'd transplant those ones you have into 2-3 gallon fabric pots and put them on a table. Run them DTW. Especially if you're in coco. Make a simple drip system on a timer.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
ye slowly getting towords a drip sytem on a timer I think im oulling 243 from the wall imIin 80 80 180 center meteres im doing had watered atm long story short my pfp is pretty accurate lol getting there gunna transplant 2 morro into some 3 galon bags im aiming 2 keep these small im learning so mutch in coco tho slowly but surely triel and error
 

Stinky_Jones

Well-Known Member
Thanks @DonBrennon for the history on the seeds. I'm under the impression they are not going to be produced because they're homemade F1s (except for Bodhi's). I'm not sure what JEC has in the works at the moment. I thought these were F1s from special cuts he was planning to produce, not just crosses from seeds from seedbanks. I've done plenty of that and have countless crosses.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
im fuken stoked cuse Iim gunna start gettin into breeding and will be soo mutch fun poping beans and seeing what phenos apear with tje crosses I dont think id be any good but u knever kno untill u try every one started some where I spose
 

ACitizenofColorado

Well-Known Member
Hey Don,

We spoke a while back.

I have followed your work for a while now and am extremely grateful for your contributions.

Did you ever do a follow up, identifying which of the 6 mixes performed best?

Also, I have a question regarding watering, if you wouldn't mind considering a constant issue of mine.

Your leaves are dark, rich green; mine are clearly lighter green with minor burning on the tips. I'm attributing this to two potential causes: under-watering or soil exhaustion. The plants are in 3, 5 or 7, and 10 gallon pots. All plants are showing about the same level of exhaustion.

So, the question about watering. The best plant I've ever grown was in a SIPS container; it performed far better than any other. It was a 10 gallon pot filled to about 8 gallons, leaving room for a thick layer of hay. I used a saucer and stand. The stand was placed into the saucer; the plant was placed on top. To perform as a SIPS system, the gaps in the plastic of the stand were filled with coco. Thus, the bottom of the plant was exposed to wet, packed coco in four places: a circle in the center and 3 other spots around the stand.

The plant vegged for about 10 or 14 days in this system before flipping to flower. During harvest, I noticed that massive roots had grown through the smart pot and into the coco packed within the plastic stand.

The main problem was humidity. Leaving 5 gallons of water sitting in saucers for hours in a 4x4 drove humidity too high. This problem was somewhat resolved by securing panda film skirts to the saucer and plant, creating a sufficiently closed system. During harvest for the run with plastic skirts, the roots protruded out of the entire smart pot to an extent I'd never seen.

One philosophy repeated in the threads is to only water when the pot is light, but this advice seems suited for hydro grows with salt nutrients. It also disturbs the root system, which I'm a bit unsure about.

The "water-when-light" method seems problematic as the drastic soil moisture shifts, probably, negatively impact the micro-herds. I'm confused. They say that if the pot dries out completely, it can help to do a compost tea; this implies that drying out impacts the micro-herd. In the "water-when-light" method, so long as the center of the pot doesn't dry out, it appears the argument is that the micro-herd in the wet area can move to the the dry area once hydrated again.

This is the only conclusion I can draw from my grows: that the SIPS system created a perfect watering system, and that the traditional "water-when-light" method results in apparent nutrient deficiencies not because the soil actually lacked those nutrients, but because it lacked the sustained micro-herd upon which nutrient availability depends.

I know this is a long question. Your leaves are motivatingly green. I could be completely wrong; I may just need to make new soil.

I was wondering if you could discuss your experiences regarding watering in organic systems. Does the "water-when-light" method work? Do you like blumats or constant drippers? If one used a dripper system, do you still allow any drying out? Or is a constant level of moisture preferred?

Also, in hydro, the mobility/availability of the nutrients depends upon their specific optimal PH range. Some hydro people explain one strategy of using a range of PH levels, starting from low and going to high, to create a full cycle of nutrient availability. Instead of shooting for a specific PH level (6.5 or whatever), they go for numerous cycles within a range (6.0-7.0).

This is really the question. In organic growing, is there anything similar to this? Do moisture variations within the soil cause variations of the available nutrients? Is there an optimal level of soil hydration to achieve, maybe measured in some way? Does the micro-herd make all nutrients bio-available at the same soil-moisture level? Or do shifts in soil-moisture cause shifts in herd behavior, resulting in changes in bioavailability?

If watering cycles aren't the issue, can you point me to any of your posts about how to supplement depleted soil through the end of veg and flower?

Your work is amazing. Sometime ago, I contacted you about trying to find some of your genetics here in Colorado. Not sure if you remember. I've been reading through your work over and over.

This thread is one of the most important contributions to the community and body of knowledge I've ever encountered. Thank you.

Again, have you already posted reports for the 6 different soil mixes?





View attachment 4049026
Testing some small batches out, folks.. 6 different variations of the 5 way living blend aka the sweet 1:1:1:1:1 recipe which many of my caregiver friends are liking more than the usual / intro 1/3 : 1/3 :1/3 blends !!

The testing team:
  • Pink Gravy clones
  • Bubba Meltdown clones
  • Ctf clones
  • Ogk x PG babies as well.

The 6 Variations:
  • Double peat
  • Double coir
  • Coir + peat
  • Coir + Douglas fir, well rotted, composted
  • Coir + leaf mould, fine textured
  • Coir + Glacial rich soil
These variations are then being mixed with:
  • 1 part castings
  • 1 part aeration 1 (in this case, rinsed rice hulls)
  • 1 pt aeration 2 (mineral lending +permanent.. in this case a charged Biochar, diatomite blend). Ie perlite free.
Then all are being amended to the same specs with our :
  • Rock Mineral blend, Paramagnetic + glacial
  • Organic Meal mix, @DT's referenced preferred %'s
Gonna be exciting to see the results unfold!!

Do stay tuned,

DT
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Ayy everyone!!
Big thanks, appreciate the patience 100%
..busy times indeed!

Our list of fire keepers, new cuts, and in house special heirloom projects etc was def listed few spots.. every once in a while we post it.. once I have time I can repost.. for sure!
(maybe I will put them in the summary thread since this one gets busy and start to mail it out monthly to the Jah Fam!?)

Right now, I'm (personally/mainly) working the popular OPGs & Grape Lime Ricky crosses.. mostly strawberry cookie / citrus fuel notes coming out of them, respectively, we will see if we get something suuuuuper scary stupid tasty and nicer than nice very very soon.. get to try a few different recipes and few different phenos, so its gonna be really good to check out. Thats when I can update on the soil recipes a bit more.. haven't forgotten about that!!

Based on visual cues / performances though, the 'intuitive / blended' recipe in an SIP is out performing all by far in terms of speed, water uptake..

The Gpa'co blend is the greenest, with some pics on IG showing the colas its creating from seed on the OPGs..

The double peat was the fastest to fuzz over and seem ready.. but time will tell on the results..

Gotta fly but will try get back asap!

Regarding watering though, SIP all the way, friends..

PS

the one Shotta Berry is crazy terpy and peircingly dank and very interesting... the one OPG is sooooo delish smelling.. hard to wait these last 2 wks... also working on the coveted pink jewel (see avatar to the left).. that one is smelling like Dat Piff . straight carrot tops, with a side of peppers, fruits and veggies.. with crazy coloration, expression and terps, so looking forward to that too..

Then one little (new) update to share is that we just got the upful Red Congolese in house.. the strain all the owners smoke in Van after hours at the secret meetings..

PSS

Question for you guys, though.. stinkiest strains you ever witnessed..the nukiest dankest kushes specifically if you may be so kind.. curious your thoughts and experiences on the best of the best around your ways! ?
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
you the man don my pkants ar doing really well I flipped a day or 2 ago will post a pic soon to show how thay do in coco my pfp is 21 days from seeds bottem right 3 are deep dreams and bottem keft is a pink gravy over feed a bit early earpy on at this point im considering only growing jah earth slolid as fuck cant wait 2 do that smoke report
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I was wondering if you could discuss your experiences regarding watering in organic systems. Does the "water-when-light" method work? Do you like blumats or constant drippers? If one used a dripper system, do you still allow any drying out? Or is a constant level of moisture preferred?
@ACitizenofColorado
Appreciate the huge complement, you're a good man among men


To revisit this a bit..

..currently don't use drippers or blu mats.. although I suppose I dislike cords and wires.. so to each their own..

I have tried lots of different ways and sizes but prefer to employ various styles of SIP technique now regardless of size,

which is a bit of an art in itself, yes.. choosing the right size depending on goals, timeframes, heights, cultivar types, needs, and environments .. the biggest of which is probably whether indoor or not, and then whether working with a legal medical disability / plant limit or not.

The water-when-light approach, though, overall, is a dangerous one in living organics, in my opinion.
Running your water low in hydro organics may cause more fog and mist, and be very good, as oxygen increases, but in living soil, it can be detrimental, especially in smaller pot sizes, (under 20 gal) where its effects are more pronounced and farther reaching / more damaging to the overall volume..

(Overwatering can be just as dangerous, true, especially if you chose weak aeration and its aged / compacted / etc.. or if it was over/under applied in the first place, for example, say below 35% or over 50%)
This is where aeration blends and variations of properties can help.. biochar, being a big one for me and newer fav of mine. Even a 1% or 2 can make a solid difference in water only applications.. 5% maybe best, but any % is huge, just like each % of oxygen can cause massive increases in activity.. as well as each ten degrees in temp shift can double microbial activity, up to a certain point.. 70• f or so being a sweet spot for soil temp for your average hybrid

Balancing the carbon and nitrogen a bit, the aeration and drainage, pot size, and lastly, fungi and bacteria, does really help keep it automatic and passive... the less you need to react and reinoculate, the better in my opinion..and allow for fairly constant levels of moisture..

If you do it right, whether organic or not, you can have an air conditioner and condenser feeding your float barrel, which automatically feeds your SIPs to certain levels..
or you can manually top your trays daily, and top em to a level they will drink by the next day,
or you can wick from a resi.. but lining the bottom of pots with charged rotting wood and or pumice are my current favorite go to's.

I have a couple different techniques Im playing with for building the bottoms, but to kis, I would say a 1 to 3 inch layer of either one or the other will do.. and allow you to sit the pot in a pool of water. I built mine higher but shluby likes the 1.5" height for sippingwhich is nice

This prevents an anaerobic layer of soaked soil at the bottom.. better to have a layer of air at the top and bottom..
and also allows the plant to create air roots at the top that sip air, while the ones down low reach for water, and the ones in between can focus on, well, everything in between!

Then when we see the top ring around the outer edge start to separate, just baste some water around that outer edges so it can swell back up again.. but never drown the top.. better to mess with minimum effective doses... and so even teas are bottom fed.. if you use a good mulch, and good size pot, you won't have to worry a tenth of much anyway.. teas can be totally avoidable.

(BTW.. for mulch, I'm strictly using our glacial and iron-rich blend I am coining "CBD-Sand" now..)
my neighbours have some bad bugs and its helped me keep my meds super bright and healthy.. the fungals dug into it right away, roots popped up through it, one plant (Pink Jewel) even had a good 15 pop through the other day, all fresh roots going for more air, really cool to see a plant react to a double watering in the SIP tray, right before your eyes almost!!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Ok. I’ll have another look through the thread to see what I can find. For example, are the SSDDs just keepers from one of Bodhi’s packs, or was it a special clone? I’d like to know ASAP though if anyone can help me. I don’t know what any of these are.

The Blue you’re referring to will be UK Livers. It’s a clone only Skunk #1 phenotype found by a bloke in the 80s with surname Liversidge. The same plant UK Cheese and Exodus Cheese etc. came from.

Here is an example of the OPGs. They’re still very young. I topped them and completely defoliated them to slow down their growth and let the branches thicken after these shots were taken. They will be vegged for 8 weeks more or so and by then will be huge, so I’ll be keeping them short and wide.
View attachment 4124859

After a week...
View attachment 4124860

Freshly transplanted...
View attachment 4124861

A week or so later...
View attachment 4124862

All three next to each other. These are deep 7” plastic pots. The white powder is diatomaceous earth.View attachment 4124864

OPG #1 - Deep green in colour and a strong odor.View attachment 4124865

OPG #2 View attachment 4124866

OPG #3 - same structure as #1 but no odor. I believe it will produce the most, but the depth and flavor of #1 will make it a better smoke.
View attachment 4124867

Beautiful style and layout eh guys

Nice and clean..

plants are beautiful too.. I would clone them all, just to be safe.. but especially one and two..
One of them might be the strawberry wafer cookie pheno, the other may be the pungent orange and grape..

Tiny bit hungry for mag this strain seems, but seems to pull all N in with ease.. love the corresponding lushness..

very hearty and healthy looking..
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Question for you guys and gals, once again.. stinkiest strains you ever witnessed..the nukiest dankest kushes specifically if you may be so kind.. curious your thoughts and experiences on the best of the best around your ways! ?
 
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