The CORRECT homemade TERPINATOR/RESINATOR formula!

Green Jam

Member
first of all thanks very much for you recipe, i was wandering if it could be used at quarter strength in veg cause on the Terpinator website they say you can use it at 5ml/Gal (1.25ml/L) but terpinator is 4%, this DIY recipe is 10% so 2.5 times more concentrated so can i start give the solution at 0.5ml/L (2ml/Gal) ? or even 0.25ml/L (1ml/G) ? i was hoping enhanc my terpene and resin production by starting as early as i can with this formula, is it possible or is it too early ? Thanks
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Here is another question. My ex-guru who kind of disappeared had me using a mix of Fulvic Acid, Kelp and Whey in small does in flower.
Kelp extracts contain Fulvic and Humic acids (Humic is in the Fulvic chain) - not much But it's there.
If your going to add a Fulvic/Humic. Only run products from BIOAG. Personally, I like FUL HUMIX.

Whey? How interesting.....Thing is, whey can be quite salty. I suppose the source would make quite a difference, like if it's the powdered protein. I can see the amino's as the thing he's was after. Thing is, Kelp extract has all those nice amino's and the left over protein from the whey would bother me....

As for the liquid form of whey that comes off of milk products - salty...
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
first of all thanks very much for you recipe, i was wandering if it could be used at quarter strength in veg cause on the Terpinator website they say you can use it at 5ml/Gal (1.25ml/L) but terpinator is 4%, this DIY recipe is 10% so 2.5 times more concentrated so can i start give the solution at 0.5ml/L (2ml/Gal) ? or even 0.25ml/L (1ml/G) ? i was hoping enhanc my terpene and resin production by starting as early as i can with this formula, is it possible or is it too early ? Thanks
You could halve the formula if you like.....use their charting....for veg and bloom.

I really don't see any real advantage for using it in veg! I mean, all their doing is feeding the "If it's good to use this much this long - Then starting in veg will give me more!" It won't......The charting I gave is a bit of "pushing" but it's a safe and effective amount to run....

I came up with the solution form - because someone asked for it.
Real deal short cut?
You can simply apply a 1/4 tsp of the powder (per gallon) from the flip to the finish. Feel cautious ? Then run it from week 3 on...
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
An N of 4 and a P of 20? Even if he's supping the N with Ca(NO3)2 at what, 15 - 16 % N that comes out to about 20-20-36 right? He still would have to use a 1/4 dose to be in ratio for cannabis - right?

I mean, I wish people could understand to post the ratio they actually apply......While the N does balance out the higher P, personally, I don't care for that high a P and using N to correct it. (high N showing in plants?)

On a related note: I've been playing with differing ratio's in my quest to answer personal questions on the no ambering front.....I basically only find average to longer bloom times for the differing ratio's I've feed.... This is also part of the reason for running some synthetic feed plants again.......As far as I can conclude. I'm affecting the plants production of ethylene gas and that's what giving me longer blooms....Sometimes that makes for a pretty looking bud. Not enough to run that way!

Anyway....I get your point Med.!
I've grown with both high & low levels of phosphorous and found that plants seem to grow faster in veg with higher levels. They also have stronger stems and are more sturdy overall. If your lights are relatively dim, the extra P can make them stretch too much, but under bright light, they just get bigger -- fast.
My next experiment is going to be with organic soil that has been fortified with tons of calcium (crab, fish bone & oyster shell) and supplement when necessary with a Nutriculture Mag Iron formula (by Plant Marvel). Only going to run one plant in the group like this; don't want to go all-in until I get a better feel.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I've grown with both high & low levels of phosphorous and found that plants seem to grow faster in veg with higher levels. They also have stronger stems and are more sturdy overall. If your lights are relatively dim, the extra P can make them stretch too much, but under bright light, they just get bigger -- fast.
My next experiment is going to be with organic soil that has been fortified with tons of calcium (crab, fish bone & oyster shell) and supplement when necessary with a Nutriculture Mag Iron formula (by Plant Marvel). Only going to run one plant in the group like this; don't want to go all-in until I get a better feel.
I'm the other way....I like less P. I have some soils that are high in P when built for certain strains.....heavy feeders mostly.
 
Hell yeah just need to add a pot of coffee to the mix and that shitll be like crack.jk I don't know if you should try it for real but


If you buy a 5lb of mono potassium phosphate and mix 1\3 that with 2\3 your brew you get big bud recipe
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Hell yeah just need to add a pot of coffee to the mix and that shitll be like crack.jk I don't know if you should try it for real but


If you buy a 5lb of mono potassium phosphate and mix 1\3 that with 2\3 your brew you get big bud recipe
MPP is way to high a P/K ratio...... For you to "make" Big BUD". Your goal is 0-1-3 NPK. To start, my K level is 10%, now add your 0-52-34 at 1/3 to 2/3.......Kinda off ain't ya!

1/4 strength MPP is 0-13-8.5 That might work as a late bloom booster.

For what your trying to do with a K sulfate supplement (add S and K levels to increase trich's and terps). Your not even getting near the purpose with MPP!

What you suggest. Is a "fail" for purpose.

Sorry
 
MPP is way to high a P/K ratio...... For you to "make" Big BUD". Your goal is 0-1-3 NPK. To start, my K level is 10%, now add your 0-52-34 at 1/3 to 2/3.......Kinda off ain't ya!

1/4 strength MPP is 0-13-8.5 That might work as a late bloom booster.

For what your trying to do with a K sulfate supplement (add S and K levels to increase trich's and terps). Your not even getting near the purpose with MPP!

What you suggest. Is a "fail" for purpose.

Sorry
I never tried any of these thanks for correcting me there drsmarty pants still I appreciate the the knowledge
 
Dude it was only a joke .that recipe was the best I could find. I figure by posting it someone would tell me if it would work. It worked so I can go ahead order this shit .I just want to grow good buds not argue with you.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Dude it was only a joke .that recipe was the best I could find. I figure by posting it someone would tell me if it would work. It worked so I can go ahead order this shit .I just want to grow good buds not argue with you.
You can not make a "Big Bud" with MPP. Not possible - wrong ratio of P&K.
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
You can not make a "Big Bud" with MPP. Not possible - wrong ratio of P&K.
curious about your reasoning for dark brown sugar over black strap molasses, what specifically about molasses makes it inferior to brown sugar , i understand it contains a decent amount of k as well as other trace minerals
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
curious about your reasoning for dark brown sugar over black strap molasses, what specifically about molasses makes it inferior to brown sugar , i understand it contains a decent amount of k as well as other trace minerals
I'm looking to make a supplement. I don't want the other things or more K value in a more concentrated form then DB sugar. I want K2SO4 and carbs. The Molasses takes more to get that level of carbs I want. That in turn increases the other compounds. I'm delivering all of those I want, in other ways.

Molasses is over rated by it's self also. I find the best use of molasses, to be for making AACT's.

Of course, feel free to figure out how much to use to exchange the carb % and do what you want....their your plants.
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
I'm looking to make a supplement. I don't want the other things or more K value in a more concentrated form then DB sugar. I want K2SO4 and carbs. The Molasses takes more to get that level of carbs I want. That in turn increases the other compounds. I'm delivering all of those I want, in other ways.

Molasses is over rated by it's self also. I find the best use of molasses, to be for making AACT's.

Of course, feel free to figure out how much to use to exchange the carb % and do what you want....their your plants.
So you prefer molasses over db sugar for teas?
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
I ran a bunch of the same strain versus what my mate did in the winter.

We used different nutes. The first run was a guru's custom brand. The second I used hydro-gardens dry.

Same tupur drip. I added in some brown sugar and molasses to the mix.

My mate got bigger buds but they were fluffier. My buds are close but much denser and rock hard. Is this what you find when you run the mix?
 

J-Icky

Well-Known Member
Ok so my math converting it from a gallon to a liter says I should use 100gram to a liter.

So why in the heck does my bag of pot. sulfate say to use 400grams a liter for fruiting or flowering plants. Seriously that would leave me with a solution that I would use a 1-2 ml a gallon for feeding my plants.
 
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