The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

regarding broken panels.
I killed a few of mine myself, the frame simply wasnt stiff enough.... ouch.
Guess this happens more often, also take care while tightening the screws while mounting.

I changed my frame from simple L-frame to some more rigid alu construction made of t-slot profiles.

Also i was able to repair my boards with my oven.

Put 2 broken boards in ca 460 fahrenheit, or 240 celsius.
When solder was fluid i simply replaced the broken led with a workin one (take care for the orientation!, dont mess that up).

It is a pain in the ass doing this in a regular oven, heat is creepin in your eyes while you need to do precise quick work.
But well, it worked.
Repaired 5 overall, am a happy camper now.

Note: on first try you can try to simply resolder it, without replaicng the diode, like the xbox one guys did (red ring syndrome)

The boards darken a bit, depends on good you are with the temparature and time needed, but thats just cosmetic to the paint.
The leds take it like a champ.
 
most often issue in my case was that the bending made a led crack internally, which "confuses" the hole row, replacing the broken led fixed the whole row in my case.
You will need one donor board of course, or get some single leds at digikey or else for the repair.
Oh and to all who try, all on your own risk, best is to take a oven who isnt used for food.

btw. i am using 6x 288 leds boards at 3000k.
I have this configurations 2 times, one for a 2.5x2.5 tent and one in a 3x3" tent..
One is driven by a hlg240h-1750mA b -t ype and one by a HLG320-2100mA also b-type dimming (each driver drives 6 x 288 panels)
Choosed the constant current mode drivers instead of 48V ones, higher voltage less ampere = thinner gauge needed, better for remote placed led drivers.

On one config i drive my panels with ca 875mA and on the other with ca. 1050mA, slightly lower in real.
Will have to go really close to the canopy with them, still trying what works bestm hard to say now how good it will work.
 
cobshopgrow said:
btw. i am using 6x 288 leds boards at 3000k.
I have this configurations 2 times, one for a 2.5x2.5 tent and one in a 3x3" tent..
Click to expand...
I can tell you right away that its going to work very well, the small tent is already overlit imo.
Damn, my mantra is leverage diode count but you take it to the next level: one qbs worth of diodes per square foot. Get a light meter under that cause im pretty sure you will be +1100 ppfd at least in the small tent. We have 2000 chips over 12 foot2, about 185 per foot2 and 30 board watts per foot is more than enough. Even done it with 20w and good total yields.
 
thank you Rocket.
I also hope there is enough light over the canopy.
Just have a simple lux meter, no par meter.
So far i will aim for 55k lux at the tops of the flower with the 3000k 301b diodes.
You think thats a good idea?

took some measurements and 55k means to be real close, maybe 2" away from the light on the small hlg240 config, may a inch more on the hlg320 config.
This data is from the head, take it with a grain of salt.
My lights itself are roughly 27" by 27" or 680 by 660mm, quite a nice coverage.
 
I got max of 145W of lm561c over 2x2.5' and it's overkill. Altho I only have 2.5' height. I run those at 90W max. That's 18W per sqr'. And that's 576 chips in there. Running it at full blast plant's will get too compact and too stressed by the light by the time they hit 1'

Edit: that's for veg
 
those are low numbers, didnt thought. (just read thats for veg, there i would aim for 33k lux at the tops, flowering 55k, simply the number who are stated everywhere FOR SUN).

Had the 30w in my mind while calculating the setups, comming from a CXB3590 setup (5 pcs driven by a hlg240-1400 used in the 2.5x2.5) this seemed to be ok.

I may missed that, but may someone posted a conversion factor which i can use for my lm301b 3000k and my lux meter?

May will get a par meter, one day, dont see the urgent need as long i know good number in lux to work with and adjust the distance i will be fine.

I encountered,compared tho the old cxb3590 setup that the spread is much more uniform.
The CXB one gave me reading of 90k lux direct under a led (short distance) and on a lot spots it was may 9k left.
The LM301b Panel put out only 50k but therefore everywhere.
Those number above arent precise, just to give a idea.
 
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55k lux sounds really low for 2" away. If your lux meter is set for sunlight this might be why, sun light have a lot more ppfd per lum. Iirc 1 radiant watt of sun light is around 90 lum, one radiant watt of 3000k sammies is about 320-330lum

From seeing what kind of watts youre using id seriously doubt those numbers youre geting are valid. Some sensors dont register all the light, only the light coming clearly from the top.

Wheres your boards from?
 
Rocket Soul said:
Welcome to the dark side WW, glad you made it :)
I run the china boards with 3 mm alu backing, 50-60w and never had a reason to measure the temps as theyve been just warm to the touch. What temps at 80w?
How do you rate them compared to your other builds with digikey or the like sourced strips?
Click to expand...

They seem to grow just as good. I'm not running them myself. They were built for a guy on IG. And a local guy here I built one for. And he is rockn the shit out of 8 boards. Two 320/48 drivers. They get warm on the backs. But not hot. You can lay the back of your hand on the back of the boards. Hes running them 16" over the tops. And getting excellent penetration with them. I have some personal 301bs with 660s added that rita gave me for free with my order. I'm gonna run them super soft with Sammy's around the outside of them and see how they do.
 
Moflow said:
I've a couple of qb288 v1 boards running on 650ma. I Can't see any problems running them soft.
500mA will give you ~ 23 watts.
What driver are you thinking of using?
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A Meanwell APC-35-500. (or a 25-350)

The light's going to be put into a small open cabinet with no real airflow so has to be efficient. (PSU will be outside the cabinet)

Edit: No real airflow
 
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Rocket Soul said:
55k lux sounds really low for 2" away. If your lux meter is set for sunlight this might be why, sun light have a lot more ppfd per lum. Iirc 1 radiant watt of sun light is around 90 lum, one radiant watt of 3000k sammies is about 320-330lum

From seeing what kind of watts youre using id seriously doubt those numbers youre geting are valid. Some sensors dont register all the light, only the light coming clearly from the top.

Wheres your boards from?
Click to expand...

my numbers are way of am sure, please excuse, will meassure better soon with the lux meter i have (30 bucks amazon one, nothing fancy but looks ok so far).
Have the light not on full power now, just switched to bloom a few days ago.

boards itself are kingbrite, should be ok.
 
should be far above the 200 lumen per watt line or?
pretty nice!
but for sure not much penetration.

Moflow said:
I've a couple of qb288 v1 boards running on 650ma. I Can't see any problems running them soft.
500mA will give you ~ 23 watts.
What driver are you thinking of using?
Click to expand...

may i ask which distance to the canopy you use with those in full flower?
 
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