Strongest fungicide?

Thegermling said:
Either way man if you get tested with it in your flower and you’re legal it’s over. All that flower gets trashed.
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Yep. You're correct and I'm not going to argue that. All I'm saying is people love to argue on the internet but provide no evidence. I have linked to multiple national medicine websites with my proof.... I'll wait for other people to post theirs. Until then I've proved my point in this thread.

There are right and wrong ways to use things and that applies to all areas of life...

Cheers
 
420_Graze_It said:
You don't need to be using Eagle 20 to ingest those chemicals. The main concern with the cannabis community is burning E20 creates hydrogen cyanide.

Guess what? burning ANY plant material, even WITHOUT E20 on it, produces cyanohydrins. When you mix water (saliva in your mouth, throat, etc) with cyanohydrins, it will also produce.... you guessed it! Hydrogen Cyanide.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21694708

All the people bashing E20 don't even understand this. If you burn/decarb plant matter you will still get hydrogen cyanide. Either way its in such tiny amounts you won't see much of an issue. It's the difference between eating off of a plate with traces of dish detergent on it, and eating the entire damn tide pod.

This is the problem with the internet, people hear or read something and it becomes a giant game of telephone where people regurgitate things they know nothing about. When you have a scientific background like myself, I will take your posts more seriously.
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Once again....where did I ever try to imply any facts or figures...or even bring up eagle 20 or any other product? I didnt... so go spew your love for fungicide somewhere else or at someone else.
 
ganga gurl420 said:
Once again....where did I ever try to imply any facts or figures...or even bring up eagle 20 or any other product? I didnt... so go spew your love for fungicide somewhere else or at someone else.
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Your stance against pesticides/fungicides has been pretty clear in every post on this thread. I was simply stating, chemicals or not, you are still ingesting hydrogen cyanide. Enjoy your day.
 
Sam&Max said:
eagle20? what else is strong?

and is there something strong which can be burned safely?
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See. This is the reason I started growing my own weed, back in mid 70's when the gov't was spraying fields with poison.
This guy is an idiot. And lazy. And potentially dangerous ... because he just doesn't care about anything except the quick and easy way.
He's the one that will run a red light while texting because he's in a hurry and he doesn't give a husky fack about me and is convinced that he is invincible.

He is probably young, and therefore selfish.
His mind is closed, and small.
He will find friends here.
 
Roger A. Shrubber said:
half life is a useful term, if used in the proper context...spinosad is a pretty safe pesticide, as things go, and it has a short half life, which means in a couple of days there is a negligible amount on the plant, so if you never use it in flower, by the time a plant is finished, any traces should be gone, or so infinitesimal as to not matter....
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thanks for the info, but the text at which I was referring to said something about a half-life of 66 days. which is a bit much when compared to the time of a grow which is +3 months. Yeah, so I can live with a chemical compound that will be reduced to a tiny fraction of what it once was.

420_Graze_It said:
MYCLOBUTANIL - National Library of Medicine HSDB Database
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420_Graze_It said:
You don't need to be using Eagle 20 to ingest those chemicals. The main concern with the cannabis community is burning E20 creates hydrogen cyanide.

Guess what? burning ANY plant material, even WITHOUT E20 on it, produces cyanohydrins. When you mix water (saliva in your mouth, throat, etc) with cyanohydrins, it will also produce.... you guessed it! Hydrogen Cyanide.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21694708

All the people bashing E20 don't even understand this. If you burn/decarb plant matter you will still get hydrogen cyanide. Either way its in such tiny amounts you won't see much of an issue. It's the difference between eating off of a plate with traces of dish detergent on it, and eating the entire damn tide pod.

This is the problem with the internet, people hear or read something and it becomes a giant game of telephone where people regurgitate things they know nothing about. When you have a scientific background like myself, I will take your posts more seriously.
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http://triangleturf.net/labels/dow/DOW-Eagle 20EW MSDS.pdf

2. Hazards Identification Emergency OverviewColor: White Physical State: Liquid. Odor:Ester Hazards of product:CAUTION! May cause eye irritation. May be harmful if inhaled. May cause central nervous system effects. May cause anesthetic effects. May cause respiratory tract irritation. Isolate area. Keep upwind of spill. Toxic fumes may be released in fire situations. Suspect cancer hazard. May cause cancer. OSHA Hazard Communication StandardThis product is a “Hazardous Chemical” as defined by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard, 29 CFR 1910.1200


https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo...marijuana-growers-hit-a-snag-toxic-pesticides

you smarter than all of these people? you smarter than the people who run the tobacco industry, which has banned the use of eagle 20? the only other crop in the country that is smoked, and the evil, money grubbing bastards that run it went "oh fuck, that shit is too toxic even for us".....¿
 
Fuck all this shitty millenial advise and simply GROW HEALTHY PLANTS

No one has troubles with any of this shit, except people growing growstore snake oil trash.

Step 1: Good microbes don't allow bad ones.

Step 2: fuck the npk food pyramid at the grow store, its nonsense. Feed plants like they are actual living creatures not test tubes.

Step 3: Make your microbes happy, with minerals.

Step 4 beat the fuck out of whoever taught you to grow moldy bamboo instead of hash resin.
 
Kassiopeija said:
Very interesting, never heard of that before. But is this bacteria also competing against Mykorrhiza that's right in the soil? Or other beneficial bacteria in living soil?

"GENERAL INFORMATlON
Garden Friendly Fungicide is a broad-spectrum preventative biofun-gicide/bactericide for control or suppression of fungal and bacterial plant diseases. The active ingredient of Garden Friendly Fungicide is a naturally occurring strain (D747) of the beneficial bacterium Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Garden Friendly Fungicide also colo-nizes plant root hairs, preventing establishment of disease-causing fungi and bacteria "
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I saw that on the label also, and couldn't find an answer. Most studies were field trials on apples and tomatoes, and root crops as I recall
 
Has anyone came across or used this product? They say it's all natural.....
Bud Rot Stop
healthy-leaf-and-bud.jpg



From the website :

Healthy Leaf And Bud is a new and safe way to eliminate bud rot (botrytis). Bud Rot Stop is a broad application leaf conditioner that conditions the leaf to ensure it’s able to defend itself against fungal attack.
Bud Rot Stop contains a strain of naturally occurring bacteria that grows for a short time (requires a minimum of 4 hours growth) on the leaf of the plant. During this growth, the bacteria produces secondary metabolites that work on one level by forming a physical barrier on the leaf surfaces to prevent attachment of the pathogens to plant cell tissues. On a second level, the lipopeptides form mixed micelles on plant surfaces that perforate the membranes of fungal cells and spores to prevent growth, suppressing the reproduction of the botrytis spores. This prior innoculation with beneficial bacteria will encourage systemic-acquired resistance (SAR) within the plant to increase plant health. Fully compliant to agricultural legislation, this 100% natural organic concentrate is diluted to apply with a trigger spray

Any thoughts.....?
 
Roger A. Shrubber said:
http://triangleturf.net/labels/dow/DOW-Eagle 20EW MSDS.pdf

2. Hazards Identification Emergency OverviewColor: White Physical State: Liquid. Odor:Ester Hazards of product:CAUTION! May cause eye irritation. May be harmful if inhaled. May cause central nervous system effects. May cause anesthetic effects. May cause respiratory tract irritation. Isolate area. Keep upwind of spill. Toxic fumes may be released in fire situations. Suspect cancer hazard. May cause cancer. OSHA Hazard Communication StandardThis product is a “Hazardous Chemical” as defined by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard, 29 CFR 1910.1200


https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo...marijuana-growers-hit-a-snag-toxic-pesticides

you smarter than all of these people? you smarter than the people who run the tobacco industry, which has banned the use of eagle 20? the only other crop in the country that is smoked, and the evil, money grubbing bastards that run it went "oh fuck, that shit is too toxic even for us".....¿
Click to expand...

I see a lot of "may" in there. That is an MSDS sheet, not a scientific study. Sugar also "may" cause diabetes.
 
Moflow said:
Has anyone came across or used this product? They say it's all natural.....
Bud Rot Stop
View attachment 4428403



From the website :

Healthy Leaf And Bud is a new and safe way to eliminate bud rot (botrytis). Bud Rot Stop is a broad application leaf conditioner that conditions the leaf to ensure it’s able to defend itself against fungal attack.
Bud Rot Stop contains a strain of naturally occurring bacteria that grows for a short time (requires a minimum of 4 hours growth) on the leaf of the plant. During this growth, the bacteria produces secondary metabolites that work on one level by forming a physical barrier on the leaf surfaces to prevent attachment of the pathogens to plant cell tissues. On a second level, the lipopeptides form mixed micelles on plant surfaces that perforate the membranes of fungal cells and spores to prevent growth, suppressing the reproduction of the botrytis spores. This prior innoculation with beneficial bacteria will encourage systemic-acquired resistance (SAR) within the plant to increase plant health. Fully compliant to agricultural legislation, this 100% natural organic concentrate is diluted to apply with a trigger spray

Any thoughts.....?
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website says its a bacterial product, so as soon as the bacteria die off, they're gone..much better idea than eagle 20
 
420_Graze_It said:
I see a lot of "may" in there. That is an MSDS sheet, not a scientific study. Sugar also "may" cause diabetes.
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split all the hairs you want, there's no reason to use a potentially harmful product when there's no compelling reason to do so except expedience and/or greed....if people used good practices in their grow rooms, and kept things clean, there would be a lot less reason to ever have to use this crap, but that's work, and they don't want to work, they want to spray some shit on the mess to make it go away, but it doesn't go away, not for a long fucking time. it just moves into the lungs and endocrine systems of all the people who smoke the shit
by your logic, using a small amount of a product that contains asbestos daily won't hurt you...maybe, but why try to find out?
a small amount of insect feces is allowed in food, that doesn't mean you have to add some if this batch doesn't have any
 
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Roger A. Shrubber said:
split all the hairs you want, there's no reason to use a potentially harmful product when there's no compelling reason to do so except expedience and/or greed....if people used good practices in the grow rooms, and kept things clean, there would be a lot less reason to ever have to use this crap, but that's work, and they don't want to work, they want to spray some shit on the mess to make it go away, but it doesn't go away, not for a long fucking time. it just moves into the lungs and endocrine systems of all the people who smoke the shit
by your logic, using a small amount of a product that contains asbestos daily won't hurt you...maybe, but why try to find out?
a small amount of insect feces is allowed in food, that doesn't mean you have to add some if this batch doesn't have any
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I absolutely agree. No compelling reason to use one, and I myself don't even use it. Just stating facts and responding to the initial poster, who asked for a strong product.

People want to get in a holy war of organic vs. pesticide and that's fine. I'm simply providing facts with my 20+ years experience with Cannabis and a degree in Horticulture.

Cheers
 
No one needs a degree in horticulture to understand that when a label has hazardous health warnings on it ...that perhaps a person should not use it. I know, I know.... I'm just a crazy hippie organic crazy person.
Smh
 
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420_Graze_It said:
I absolutely agree. No compelling reason to use one, and I myself don't even use it. Just stating facts and responding to the initial poster, who asked for a strong product.

People want to get in a holy war of organic vs. pesticide and that's fine. I'm simply providing facts with my 20+ years experience with Cannabis and a degree in Horticulture.

Cheers
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i'm actually a noncombatant, most of the time. i use spinosad in veg, and will throw in some pyrethrin if it's a particularly tough infestation, but those plants do not get put into flower until they're clean, and need no further treatment. and i keep my grow room clean, so i've never actually had a reason to use any antifungals, but i do clean tthe whole room top to bottom at least every three months, and use a spray of physan 20 to keep anything from ever getting started. it's a pain in the ass, but it's a lot less of a pain in the ass than dealing with pm or botrytus.
 
ganga gurl420 said:
No one needs a degree in horticulture to understand that when a label has hazardous health warnings on the label ...that perhaps a person should not use it. I know, I know.... I'm just a crazy hippie organic crazy person.
Smh
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i agree with you, but...i also kind of agree with him...there's nothing wrong with using some chemicals in a responsible manner...the key words are some and responsible...some things should never be used, ever, like paclobutazol, myclobutanyl, mitacloprid...and some things that are ok to eat may or may not be ok to smoke...a lot more research has to be done in that area.
 
Kassiopeija said:
Very interesting, never heard of that before. But is this bacteria also competing against Mykorrhiza that's right in the soil? Or other beneficial bacteria in living soil?

"GENERAL INFORMATlON
Garden Friendly Fungicide is a broad-spectrum preventative biofun-gicide/bactericide for control or suppression of fungal and bacterial plant diseases. The active ingredient of Garden Friendly Fungicide is a naturally occurring strain (D747) of the beneficial bacterium Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Garden Friendly Fungicide also colo-nizes plant root hairs, preventing establishment of disease-causing fungi and bacteria "
Click to expand...
100K x's more concentrated than Hydroguard. I run DWC Cucumbers in 90 degree solution. Garden Friendly so I would believe all the good guys live.
 
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