Soil Test Results

MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
You wouldn't believe that flak that I caught over the years about this very subject!!! Even after I had soil test results, people were considering me dumb for testing my soil. I was angry about it for a long time and I felt like I shouldn't be sharing this info and that EVERYONE should walk the same path that I did. Scrutiny and ridicule was the only thing that I got when I made threads!!! That is why I am so quick to tell people to go fuck themselves. 95% of people on here are chomping at the bit to misguide you. Keep in mind, most of the experienced gardeners don't have motivation to return to this website and help people(competition)... I felt the same urge and I almost didn't respond because I basically repeated the same info that I provided at the beginning of the thread. I expected to catch flak from a "know it all". Sorry, this topic has made me disgruntled towards this thread. I've been called stupid too many times on here and there are not many people that I care to talk to!!!

"You can't have too many nutrients in compost" "are you sure that yellowing is not caused by Mg def or something else" "why do you test your soil, it don't matter in organic soils" "the test that you used is not accurate" "why do you keep talking about excess levels of P"

I almost want to go back and archive all the stupid shit people have said to me about this topic!!! Shunned and excommunicated until I just don't care about people's problems.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
One last thing... The reason that I don't use Azomite is because Aluminum is a major component of this specific volcanic ash.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Here is a prime example of the threads that I enjoy watching. Nobody has a FUCKING CLUE about what is going on here. The soil test is $30 but everyone has too much pride or are just plain dumb. Mn def looks exactly like Mg def because they both affect chloroplast production. That is why your plants looked better after moving the lights back, not stressing them for chlorophyll production. The plants that are getting blasted by light are faded while the plants on the edge look darker. Anyways, this thread is for a good laugh. Look at all of the clowns guessing at what the problem is. Nobody knows what is going on, but there are a LOT of opinions!!!

I was guilty of using too much aeration and that also is not good for zinc and other micros. Phosphorus and sandy soils are bad for micros! Copy and Paste:

Foliar sprays fix the problem for the plant but they don’t fix the problem in the soil. The results of your soil test will give specific recommendations for amending the soil based on the zinc levels and the construction of your soil. This usually includes working chelated zinc into the soil. In addition to adding zinc to the soil, you should add compost or other organic matter to sandy soil to help the soil manage zinc better. Cut back on high-phosphorus fertilizers because they reduce the amount of zinc available to the plants.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Zinc And Plant Growth: What Is The Function Of Zinc In Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/zinc-and-plant-growth.htm
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Here is a prime example of the threads that I enjoy watching. Nobody has a FUCKING CLUE about what is going on here. The soil test is $30 but everyone has too much pride or are just plain dumb. Mn def looks exactly like Mg def because they both affect chloroplast production. That is why your plants looked better after moving the lights back, not stressing them for chlorophyll production. The plants that are getting blasted by light are faded while the plants on the edge look darker. Anyways, this thread is for a good laugh. Look at all of the clowns guessing at what the problem is. Nobody knows what is going on, but there are a LOT of opinions!!!

I was guilty of using too much aeration and that also is not good for zinc and other micros. Phosphorus and sandy soils are bad for micros! Copy and Paste:

Foliar sprays fix the problem for the plant but they don’t fix the problem in the soil. The results of your soil test will give specific recommendations for amending the soil based on the zinc levels and the construction of your soil. This usually includes working chelated zinc into the soil. In addition to adding zinc to the soil, you should add compost or other organic matter to sandy soil to help the soil manage zinc better. Cut back on high-phosphorus fertilizers because they reduce the amount of zinc available to the plants.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Zinc And Plant Growth: What Is The Function Of Zinc In Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/zinc-and-plant-growth.htm
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Mustang not sure about all the dumb shit people have said concerning your test but I 100% appreciate the help as it appears you are in the same boat relatively speaking as I am.

I’m going to try and hit them with the foliar you mentioned and go from there. Maybe the azomite and other rock dusts in my soil will become available as more of the NPK is used up/they breakdown. I will keep you posted here.

Thanks again for the help
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Growitpondifarm said:
Mustang not sure about all the dumb shit people have said concerning your test but I 100% appreciate the help as it appears you are in the same boat relatively speaking as I am.

I’m going to try and hit them with the foliar you mentioned and go from there. Maybe the azomite and other rock dusts in my soil will become available as more of the NPK is used up/they breakdown. I will keep you posted here.

Thanks again for the help
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I don't mean to come across as bitter or anything... I just finished one of the shittiest harvests ever!!! What I read about Mn and Zn deficiencies is that they are devastating. I didn't understand that and I don't think that most people do, but 95% of people don't test their soil. I just had a friend over that was asking me questions and I was showing her the test results that I had from Logan Labs and the Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test. It shown that I was fine with the micro's but high in P. The Soil Savvy test shown that my P levels were fine but the micro's were low. It means that the micros are there but are being tied up by the P and the P is showing normal amounts on the Soil Savvy test.

Here is my deal. I have plants in the same soil and they are starting to show def problems... Which means I am too late to fix the soil, maybe? I still haven't flowered them yet, but I am thinking about adding Zn and Mn sulfate to my watering anyways and holding off on flipping them to flower. I'm going to transplant from 2gal to 8gal pots and I am going to amend the same soil that I had in the test results with Zn, Mn, and maybe a touch of copper sulfate... Here is the thing though, we both have extreme amounts of sulfur. However, I read that sulfur only affects the Ph and any side-effects are from the Ph and not directly from the excess S. Everything that I am adding is a sulfate in case you missed it lol. So, I am probably going to deal with Ph issues next... What I learned to do about excess sulfur and Na is put the soil in pots and water the SHIT out of them. What I read about Na excess is to just wash it, but with 48'' of water. That is a lot of water. It's probably one of the biggest things that I was missing when I was aging the soil, it needs to have water run through it and wash off the excess. My lawn usually loves it when I do this!
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
I don't mean to come across as bitter or anything... I just finished one of the shittiest harvests ever!!! What I read about Mn and Zn deficiencies is that they are devastating. I didn't understand that and I don't think that most people do, but 95% of people don't test their soil. I just had a friend over that was asking me questions and I was showing her the test results that I had from Logan Labs and the Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test. It shown that I was fine with the micro's but high in P. The Soil Savvy test shown that my P levels were fine but the micro's were low. It means that the micros are there but are being tied up by the P and the P is showing normal amounts on the Soil Savvy test.

Here is my deal. I have plants in the same soil and they are starting to show def problems... Which means I am too late to fix the soil, maybe? I still haven't flowered them yet, but I am thinking about adding Zn and Mn sulfate to my watering anyways and holding off on flipping them to flower. I'm going to transplant from 2gal to 8gal pots and I am going to amend the same soil that I had in the test results with Zn, Mn, and maybe a touch of copper sulfate... Here is the thing though, we both have extreme amounts of sulfur. However, I read that sulfur only affects the Ph and any side-effects are from the Ph and not directly from the excess S. Everything that I am adding is a sulfate in case you missed it lol. So, I am probably going to deal with Ph issues next... What I learned to do about excess sulfur and Na is put the soil in pots and water the SHIT out of them. What I read about Na excess is to just wash it, but with 48'' of water. That is a lot of water. It's probably one of the biggest things that I was missing when I was aging the soil, it needs to have water run through it and wash off the excess. My lawn usually loves it when I do this!
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Mustang did you use these as foliars during flower? I’m nervous spraying anything past a week or so into light flip.

I’m hoping I can hit these right after a switch them and they can make to the end. Maybe some of the P Will be eaten up and allow the micros that I know are in my mix to become available.

I totally underestimated how my micro levels from my soil test would effect this run. But I will make sure this doesn’t happen again that’s for sure!
 
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Wetdog

Well-Known Member
The fastest 'quick fix' I've seen and used is the (don't laugh), Ironite "mineral mix".. Not the ones that stress "fertilizer" on the label. My 20# bag is around 10 yrs old and focuses just on the minerals. Stuff that I glanced at recently seems to be more focused on the NPK and I had to look hard for the old mineral mix I use. People laugh when I mention Ironite till they try some.

For the Azomite, Greensand and the like, I don't count on it much for several months at least and not till the following year to be fully available. Rock dust seems to take even longer, more like a couple of years. The Ironite comes in handy with "fresh" mixes.

The Al in the Azomite is a bit overblown considering what has to happen to cause a toxicity. Mainly, a pH of ~4.5 or lower, or excess overapplication of Humic/Fulvic acid. It is the third most abundant element after oxygen and silicon and is in pretty much everything.

Wet
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Growitpondifarm said:
Mustang did you use these as foliars during flower? I’m nervous spraying anything past a week or so into light flip.
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Not supposed to spray past the 3rd week of flower, still I 100% don't like to spray plants... Maybe I will get over it?
Growitpondifarm said:
I totally underestimated how my micro levels from my soil test would effect this run. But I will make sure this doesn’t happen again that’s for sure!
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I did too!!! The article that I read stated that Zn and Mn deficiencies are devastating and I believe it now.
Wetdog said:
The fastest 'quick fix' I've seen and used is the (don't laugh), Ironite "mineral mix".
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I've seen this at HomeDepot before. Most of the Iron amendments will be focused on fixing P tox and it is probably the same stuff as the Fertilome, just in granular form.
Wetdog said:
The Al in the Azomite is a bit overblown considering what has to happen to cause a toxicity.
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Your probably right. It is people on this forum that put that thought in my head... Here is some of the things that I heard on this forum: "bone/blood meal carries MadCow disease" "Azomite is roughly 30% aluminum" "Granite is radioactive" "kelp has mercury in it" "feather meal has arsenic from chemical stripping of the feathers". I know that there is more lol
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
The fastest 'quick fix' I've seen and used is the (don't laugh), Ironite "mineral mix".. Not the ones that stress "fertilizer" on the label. My 20# bag is around 10 yrs old and focuses just on the minerals. Stuff that I glanced at recently seems to be more focused on the NPK and I had to look hard for the old mineral mix I use. People laugh when I mention Ironite till they try some.

For the Azomite, Greensand and the like, I don't count on it much for several months at least and not till the following year to be fully available. Rock dust seems to take even longer, more like a couple of years. The Ironite comes in handy with "fresh" mixes.

The Al in the Azomite is a bit overblown considering what has to happen to cause a toxicity. Mainly, a pH of ~4.5 or lower, or excess overapplication of Humic/Fulvic acid. It is the third most abundant element after oxygen and silicon and is in pretty much everything.

Wet
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I didn't realize that I was replying to you earlier lol... I've been thinking about previous conversations that we had about potassium and greensand. I sent a soil test to an online consultant one time and they confused the shit out of me, she told me that K was the problem when it was really the P. The creator of the Soil Savvy test said that K should the only thing that needs to be higher for our plants. So, I don't think that K was as big of a problem as I thought. It was most likely the rock phosphate that really screwed me!
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
So little update,

I added a pinch of the ironite to each pot, it seems like this stuff shouldn’t hurt the soil biology too bad. I also hit everything with a good thorough foliar of the fertilome mustang recommended last night. I’m hoping to see improvements over next few days because as of now they are not happy in here, minus the one smaller Jawa that got planted about a month behind and was just recently up potted.
Here are some pics of the unhappy garden, right after a little watering.
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Extra sad Jawa Pie
E6148E1A-0509-4408-8610-E55189B4E93D.jpeg

Man learning a ton on soil composition and it’s proper ratios concerning NPK values and minerals. Gotta stay positive and take this run as a learning experience. I’m definitely going to shy away from the freshly composted manures for my next soil mixup. I think the excess of P, which just so happens to be the hardest and most toxic of the macros to deal with, comes from that source. Let’s hope that delivering the much needed micros via the foliage will allow me to salvage this cycle. I was hoping to flip these today but I’m going to give them another 7 days and see if they improve, thanks to everyone who has tagged along and offered their input.
 

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Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Jeeze Fucking Louise! That's a classic iron deficiency!

I have no clue about Fertilome, never used it, but just what constitutes a 'pinch' of ironite?

For those size pots I would really suggest a heavy 1/4 cup of ironite, watered in well. I'm not a fan of foliars and it doesn't seem to be doing much for your plants. Besides the 1/4 cup top dress, take another pinch or 2 of ironite, dissolve it in warm water and pour it around the stem about 4" OUT from the stem. It won't fully dissolve, but will partially and that's good enough to get it going.

Wet
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
Jeeze Fucking Louise! That's a classic iron deficiency!

I have no clue about Fertilome, never used it, but just what constitutes a 'pinch' of ironite?

For those size pots I would really suggest a heavy 1/4 cup of ironite, watered in well. I'm not a fan of foliars and it doesn't seem to be doing much for your plants. Besides the 1/4 cup top dress, take another pinch or 2 of ironite, dissolve it in warm water and pour it around the stem about 4" OUT from the stem. It won't fully dissolve, but will partially and that's good enough to get it going.

Wet
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Yup I have diagnosed the problem for sure. I put around tbsp or so. I’ll add more tonight and pour a little liquid version in too.

Have been reading a lot about the foliar application of chelated iron which is what fertilome is, plus other micros, every ag source I have read says foliar is super effect at quick fix for iron deficiency, especially when caused by excess P. Wet, any reason you recommend no more spraying ? Was planning on hitting them again in one weeks time. Again just going off of literature I read online, outside of canna world.
 
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Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Well, waiting for a week would qualify as "for the moment". LOL Some get carried away with daily or even several times per day.

Reading more about root exudates, it just seems they do a better job with when, where, and how much is absorbed. Leaves will absorb, but it's not their primary job like it is for the roots.

Water in the Ironite well and you should see results before the week is out. It's pretty fast.

The box/bag did specify *Mineral Mix*, yes? That's all it used to be, but lately I've seen one at least that stressed the fertilizer aspect. I was really, WTF? If I need minerals I'm not looking for NPK and vice versa.

Wet
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
It did say mineral mix but t also has an NPK value of 1-0-1 as long as that middle number is 0 I’m ok haha. I couldn’t find any ironite product with any less of an NPK value.
 
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
What a difference a couple days make. Already seeing the vigor start to return along with new growth. Color still hasn’t rebounded but I’m hoping the new meet growth will be darker and continue in the trend.
Thanks to wet and mustang for all the help here. Really appreciate it, if I’m happy with progress I will be flipping lights Thursday.

D4331F9B-01D3-4ACC-9E97-3D7F0D482D7F.jpeg
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Growitpondifarm said:
What a difference a couple days make. Already seeing the vigor start to return along with new growth. Color still hasn’t rebounded but I’m hoping the new meet growth will be darker and continue in the trend.
Thanks to wet and mustang for all the help here. Really appreciate it, if I’m happy with progress I will be flipping lights Thursday.

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Your a step ahead of me! I think that I let my deficiency run too long... I sure hope that we have this figured out!!! I thought that my soil was good to go, so I started a couple of seed packs and had very poor germination rates and they just look horrible! Anyways, I mixed more soil and I have another test kit on hand... I am going to run a lot of water through the soil before I have it tested this time, my sulfur and sodium were very high last time.
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Vegging plants that I am waiting on like you are...
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Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Your a step ahead of me! I think that I let my deficiency run too long... I sure hope that we have this figured out!!! I thought that my soil was good to go, so I started a couple of seed packs and had very poor germination rates and they just look horrible! Anyways, I mixed more soil and I have another test kit on hand... I am going to run a lot of water through the soil before I have it tested this time, my sulfur and sodium were very high last time.
View attachment 4166889
Vegging plants that I am waiting on like you are...
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Yea yours are a more all around light in color where mine seemed to start with new growth. Either way maybe try the ironite that wet recommended? Seemed to hell for mine. What I’m concerned with now is getting the mineral levels where they need to be and keeping them there for the flowering cycle.
 
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