Soil Report (4), Looking for Comments, Advice

This is a recent soil report and I have a question or two and looking for helpful comments.

I can see a micronutrient supplement without Iron will be needed.

I will transplant into this soil at the start of flowering, so Nitrogen should be okay.

Is there enough PK to see me thru a flowering cycle ?

Is Sodium (NA) going to be a problem?

Look at Big6 for your micronutrients without iron or look for supplements of the individual elements, but many of those come as sulphates I believe so that will push your sulphur levels up further. Also I believe I've seen mention that the Big6 and the likes are better as foliars than soil additives.


For individual additives look at places like mbferts.com & customhydronutrients.com; There's probably a lot of other sites you can use - there are others on here that would know far more about these places than myself.

The3rdMan said:

This is a recent soil report and I have a question or two and looking for helpful comments.

I can see a micronutrient supplement without Iron will be needed.

I will transplant into this soil at the start of flowering, so Nitrogen should be okay.

Is there enough PK to see me thru a flowering cycle ?

Is Sodium (NA) going to be a problem?

View attachment 4926843

View attachment 4926846

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Humic Acid’s are great for getting rid of excess sodium & salts. But make sure you get a finely ground completely 100% water soluble Humic with at least a 60% content then add 1/4tsp/5 Gal EVERY water. If you see purple stems or nutrient deficiency go up to 1tsp/5gal

I use this earthworks & seems to be working great. You can find it on Amazon

NewGrower2011 said:

Look at Big6 for your micronutrients without iron or look for supplements of the individual elements, but many of those come as sulphates I believe so that will push your sulphur levels up further. Also I believe I've seen mention that the Big6 and the likes are better as foliars than soil additives.

BuildASoil BIG 6 Micronutrients & Humic Acid Blend

Revitalize your soil with BuildASoil's BIG 6, a crucial blend of six micronutrients fortified with Humic Acid. Our extensive soil tests have revealed a unique formula that's rich in Boron, Cobalt, Copper, Manganese, Molybdenum, and Zinc, designed to correct imbalances and promote vigorous plant...

buildasoil.com

For individual additives look at places like mbferts.com & customhydronutrients.com; There's probably a lot of other sites you can use - there are others on here that would know far more about these places than myself.

Click to expand...

I have Big 6 from buildasoil but don't believe it has anything in it that will increase sulfur. Thank you for the links you posted.

I highly recommend TM-7 or Cytoplus from BioAG. 7 micronutrients with humic acid, the Cytoplus is pretty much TM-7 with seaweed powder added.

TM-7 should be a staple in every living soil garden, and you only need a very small amount.

That said, in your shoes I'd use the Big 6 product you already have as your soil is flush in Sulfur from the looks of it.

kratos015 said:

I highly recommend TM-7 or Cytoplus from BioAG. 7 micronutrients with humic acid, the Cytoplus is pretty much TM-7 with seaweed powder added.

TM-7 should be a staple in every living soil garden, and you only need a very small amount.

That said, in your shoes I'd use the Big 6 product you already have as your soil is flush in Sulfur from the looks of it.

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I do have TM-7 in case I do have an iron deficiency.

Do you see any potential for lockout being caused by the elevated levels of P, K, S, CA, , MG, or NA?

My 2c... Knowing what you have excesses of should help you in keeping a close eye for any negative / antagonistic effects, i.e. lockouts; Refer to a 'Mulders Chart' to see the relationships between the elements then keep an eye out for the anticipated effects.

There's so damn many variables you really just have to closely watch for the effects as things progress imo.

This chart looks like really common numbers for small pots indoors getting most of their nutrients in irrigation, 3 years or so into using the dirt. Did I guess right?

The next thing I would ask is, how much soil is this and how much soil per plant? I would approach a relatively large amount in outdoor beds differently than if it's a few hundred gallons of indoor pots. If it's a small amount it will be easier to fix completely and quickly. Outdoors I would be addressing this over a period of years.

If they're big dirt outdoor full term plants, you've got plenty of phos for a season. But in little indoor pots, they may actually still need some nutes by halfway through flower. You'd have to watch them, and it depends if you're doing 1/4lb'ers in 2.5 gals or 7 gals.

You have a level of potassium that could cause lockout, and the high salt levels will exacerbate this. If it's a small amount of soil the easiest solution will be to dilute with fresh inert medium. In a large garden you would be looking to pull that excess potassium and phosphorus out over time by just not adding more. Ph'ing your water a little low (6.0) will help the plants get more of the micro-nutrients that start to lock out due to excess potassium.

Your high iron isn't too too high, and it's probably coming from your water supply. Is it well water perhaps? I'd bet that's where the sulpher and calcium is coming from too. A sediment/carbon filter will reduce levels. I have high sulpher - iron - calcium well water, and in big outdoor dirt it's no big deal but in little pots that get daily irrigation I would have to filter if not r/o.

Overall advice is, if they're outside in big dirt I'd just be avoiding potassium for years, and phos for one year. Plenty of micro-nutrients multiple sources, make sure to hit that boron. If they're indoors I'd mix the dirt 50/50 with inert medium to put me back into easily workable range, just because it would be possible, and I'd ensure that I'm not wasting electricity and time.

I am growing indoor in 15 gallon pots. The iron comes from the Basalt rock dust. Other stuff comes from Karanja/Neem meal, Kelp, Crustacean meal, Gypsum, Oyster Shell flour, Insect Frass, & Craftblend from BAS.

I make my soil in 10 gallon batches. I was thinking about mixing 3-4 gallons of non fertilized soil as you suggest to bring the primary and secondary nutrients into the Optimal Zone but only if there was a potential for lockout. Instead, I was hoping that I had enough nutrients to carry me thru flower.

I contacted MYSOIL, the company that provided the soil test results, and we concluded the NA may be too high so we agreed to the following course of action.

1. The soil sample was taken from a 10 gallon batch. I will add 3 gallons of soil (consisting of peat moss, compost, EWC) to dilute this batch and lower P,K,S,CA,MG,NA, & FE. Since this would drop the Nitrogen below Optimal, I will add some Nitrogen (1 TSP Bloodmeal).

2. Also, use a micronutrient mix that does not contain Iron.