This chart looks like really common numbers for small pots indoors getting most of their nutrients in irrigation, 3 years or so into using the dirt. Did I guess right?
The next thing I would ask is, how much soil is this and how much soil per plant? I would approach a relatively large amount in outdoor beds differently than if it's a few hundred gallons of indoor pots. If it's a small amount it will be easier to fix completely and quickly. Outdoors I would be addressing this over a period of years.
If they're big dirt outdoor full term plants, you've got plenty of phos for a season. But in little indoor pots, they may actually still need some nutes by halfway through flower. You'd have to watch them, and it depends if you're doing 1/4lb'ers in 2.5 gals or 7 gals.
You have a level of potassium that could cause lockout, and the high salt levels will exacerbate this. If it's a small amount of soil the easiest solution will be to dilute with fresh inert medium. In a large garden you would be looking to pull that excess potassium and phosphorus out over time by just not adding more. Ph'ing your water a little low (6.0) will help the plants get more of the micro-nutrients that start to lock out due to excess potassium.
Your high iron isn't too too high, and it's probably coming from your water supply. Is it well water perhaps? I'd bet that's where the sulpher and calcium is coming from too. A sediment/carbon filter will reduce levels. I have high sulpher - iron - calcium well water, and in big outdoor dirt it's no big deal but in little pots that get daily irrigation I would have to filter if not r/o.
Overall advice is, if they're outside in big dirt I'd just be avoiding potassium for years, and phos for one year. Plenty of micro-nutrients multiple sources, make sure to hit that boron. If they're indoors I'd mix the dirt 50/50 with inert medium to put me back into easily workable range, just because it would be possible, and I'd ensure that I'm not wasting electricity and time.
