should i top my plant in week 3 of flower?

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
okay boys so this might sound dumb but i am growing in a 2x2 grow tent and i trained my plant during the veg stage with LST aka low stress training but i never topped her and know during flower she has 1 top that is getting around 1200 umole but the rest of the plant is getting like 700/600 umole or ppfd or par or whatever u call it. so my question is should i top my plant so that the entire plant gets more light? here is picture :( if this is dumb idea lemme know :(

20231023_081312.jpg
 

PopAndSonGrows

Well-Known Member
Not advisable to top a plant that's already flowering. What I advise, pinch/snap the main stalk and lean over the tallest top (supercropping) and pull a couple of the large fan leaves that will now be on the "underside" of that leaned-over stalk.
 

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
Not advisable to top a plant that's already flowering. What I advise, pinch/snap the main stalk and lean over the tallest top (supercropping) and pull a couple of the large fan leaves that will now be on the "underside" of that leaned-over stalk.
thank you i will try and bend / snap the main stalk and lean it over and pull some fan leaves this sounds like better idea if it doesnt kill the top when i snap the stalk :D
 

PopAndSonGrows

Well-Known Member
thank you i will try and bend / snap the main stalk and lean it over and pull some fan leaves this sounds like better idea if it doesnt kill the top when i snap the stalk :D
You'll be fine. Even if you kill that top, you have plenty others. And, the only real way to learn these training techniques is to do them, and occasionally fuck them up, lol. It's how it goes
 

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
You'll be fine. Even if you kill that top, you have plenty others. And, the only real way to learn these training techniques is to do them, and occasionally fuck them up, lol. It's how it goes
well boss man after pinching my top and cutting the fan leaves off and stuff the middle is getting 1200umole and the corners are getting 800/900 umole so i guess its a little bit better? it looks like my led light just emits alot of light in the center and the corners get less light.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
well boss man after pinching my top and cutting the fan leaves off and stuff the middle is getting 1200umole and the corners are getting 800/900 umole so i guess its a little bit better? it looks like my led light just emits alot of light in the center and the corners get less light.
The rate of falloff in PPFD varies with the design of light and there are only a handful of lights that give a really uniform lightcast. The best light I've seen for a 2' is the Vipar XS 1500 Pro. It's very affordable, has a very good spectrum, and is highly uniform.

At 1200µmol, you're almost inevitably going to get light avoidance or damage unless you're using CO2. Are you using Photone? If so, you might be better off with a $32 Uni-T lux meter (Bluetooth).

[edit]
Per other posters, if you top the plant, you'll lose that % of your harvest but, based on the photos, you should have an excellent yield anyway. If it were me, I'd super crop but I tend to "err on the side of caution".
 

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
The rate of falloff in PPFD varies with the design of light and there are only a handful of lights that give a really uniform lightcast. The best light I've seen for a 2' is the Vipar XS 1500 Pro. It's very affordable, has a very good spectrum, and is highly uniform.

At 1200µmol, you're almost inevitably going to get light avoidance or damage unless you're using CO2. Are you using Photone? If so, you might be better off with a $32 Uni-T lux meter (Bluetooth).
thank you so much for your time i appreciate you seriously

Currently using a dr. meter digital led Lux meter and i found a chart online of lux to umol or whatever.

i was gonna buy the xs 1500 pro looks like a amazing par map but the problem is i want a UVB t5 h0 fixture in the middle of my tent like right in the middle so i am thinking about buying the migro array 2 so i can put a migro 310 uvb fixture in the middle.

the only thing i dont like is with the migro array 2 if you have it 6 inches away the center is 900 umol and the corners are 600 umol and with a uvb light i will hang my light like 14 inches above my plants :O at this height ill get like 500 umol in center and 250 in corners ? or somecrap :O super crappy low par i dont know what too do :(((

ive grown buds without any uv spectra and honestly i dont like the stone its super weak and crappy not potent at all so i need UV spectra.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
The rate of falloff in PPFD varies with the design of light and there are only a handful of lights that give a really uniform lightcast. The best light I've seen for a 2' is the Vipar XS 1500 Pro. It's very affordable, has a very good spectrum, and is highly uniform.
The distribution of light is fixture dependent, but light falloff is defined by physics; the inverse square law.
Twice the distance = 1/4 of the light intensity for any light source.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
thank you so much for your time i appreciate you seriously

Currently using a dr. meter digital led Lux meter and i found a chart online of lux to umol or whatever.

i was gonna buy the xs 1500 pro looks like a amazing par map but the problem is i want a UVB t5 h0 fixture in the middle of my tent like right in the middle so i am thinking about buying the migro array 2 so i can put a migro 310 uvb fixture in the middle.

the only thing i dont like is with the migro array 2 if you have it 6 inches away the center is 900 umol and the corners are 600 umol and with a uvb light i will hang my light like 14 inches above my plants :O at this height ill get like 500 umol in center and 250 in corners ? or somecrap :O super crappy low par i dont know what too do :(((

ive grown buds without any uv spectra and honestly i dont like the stone its super weak and crappy not potent at all so i need UV spectra.
Photone is the big dog for a software light meter but I put them all in the same category of "use only as a last resort". If you can calibrate the app, that's good but you're still in the position of having to put your $$$ phone into a tent. My preference, $$ no object, PAR meter (Li-Cor or Apogee $600); light meter (Uni-T Bluetooth model $32); manufacturer's recommendations; software solution.


I'm not knocking the software approach, per se. Full disclosure - I've been writing software since the late 80's, mostly running my own business but did work for Apple for three years (they're just another big company). I've corresponded with the guy who wrote Photone and…I feel his pain. It's a tough problem and it's always a moving target because companies that make phones change sensors. On that basis, and with alternatives that are known quantities and a lot cheaper than dropping a mobile into the drink, I'd avoid them.

And, yes, I've tested Photone, twice in fact. It failed completely with a blurple a few years back so I went with the Apogee and picked up the Uni-T.

The LUX to PPFD conversion factor varies according to spectrum. I've attached PDF that I wrote (it's actually in Excel). Check the list for your light. Perhaps there's a more accurate conversion factor. Having said that, it's tough to get 1200 out of a small light, even if the reading taken at the light face. Manufacturers just don't put a lot of engineering into lights that size. And you're not getting 1200µmols at a normal hang height of 12". Again, $32 for the Uni-T will "remove all doubt".

Re. Migro - I understand the attraction. I used a two bar Growcraft veg light but, for a seedling, it's overkill so I hang a Vipar XS 1500 (the older model :-( ) in the middle. Works really nicely.

My comment on the Migro lights (I knew you'd ask) — they're a relatively low power light and that's one of the reasons why Migro can sell at that price point. I noticed the price + PPFD difference as soon as I saw them for sale and figured it was a smart business move on Shane's part — sell a light that's not as strong as the competition but at a lower price. After all 800±µmols is "good enough", right?

I think my assumption was incorrect based on a YT video that Shane did when he interviewed Bruce Bugbee. I've watched most of, if not all of, Bugbee's videos and have read a lot of research into grow lighting by Bugbee, Westmoreland, Chandra, Zhee, and others so I suspect I have at least a decent understanding of the issues. When Bugbee talked about the light saturation point, Shane did not understand what Bugbee meant. The good doctor realized that and talked around it. The LSP for cannabis, in ambient CO2, is 800-1000µmols. in the video, Shane looks completely flummoxed about light levels that high. That floored me. First, if you don't know what the light saturation point means, you haven't read "the research". Hell, you haven't even really got into the basics either of plant bio or of grow lighting. On the other hand, what that made me think is that he wasn't selling a moderately powered line of lights because he truly didn't think that 900µmols was best. That line of thinking, which I attributed to him being a savvy businessman, might well have been a result of ignorance instead. Don't know one way or the other but it did give me a different perspective on his products.

Anyway, back to earth…

The design of the Migro array is a really great design, they're a very reasonably priced light, and grower's will get a good crop out those lights but there's a reason why they're priced where they are.

Re. UV - it's not the lack of UV that's getting sub-standard weed. Step back for a second and think about how many millions of tons of really good weed have been grown without UV enhancement. Second, have you checked into the research on UV? I read up a bit on it about a year ago and the research on it was unconvincing for me. Perhaps that's changed? If so, send some links if you would.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
The distribution of light is fixture dependent, but light falloff is defined by physics; the inverse square law.
Twice the distance = 1/4 of the light intensity for any light source.
No question about the inverse square law with the understanding that it's a function of one emitter with a plane surface. The inverse square law still describes attenuation from a grow light but a grow light has hundreds of diodes plus, in many cases, the LED surface has a lense or the surface of the diodes may not all be on the same plane, by design or otherwise. Add in reflections from the sides of the tent and it would get really hard to calculate the PPFD.

Dimmer settings are easy to approximate. It's almost 1:1. Estimating PPFD based on changed distance is a WAG. The only set of PPFD charts that comes to mind is at http://chilledgrowlights.com. They publish PPFD maps for their lights at a variety of heights and they also have lab tests for their light bars. It would be nice if other manufacturer's follower suit but at least most of the others are publishing something these days. It's a big, and very welcome, change from just a few years ago. Earlier today, I had to check out something on the Kind website and even they have opened the kimono.
 
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