Shatter/sap turned on me

Hey everyone, so I bought some shatter/sap Saturday, it was fine this morning, I left it in my car today during work, I imagine temps reached above 100 easily, but I wonder why it turned into more of a wax now and not the "shatter" o once had. Potency is there just doesn't look the same, some please explain my curiosity has the best of me

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Most concentrates I have purchased are not stable for a long amount of time, but to me they seem to auto-butter even if they are just exposed to air for a prolonged period. I never leave anything in the car here during the summer time, and that includes flower too. Can you upload a pic?

Yea see never happened before, I only leave it in my car because I can't just take it inside my job lol so my stuff waits for me in the car sometimes I don't go straight home after work and like to have my smoke on me, this all just got me a little curious

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Probably auto-buddered from the heat and moisture content. Moisture content might be a little higher due to blasting in warmer temps with high humidity.

Yea.. it's totally fine peacepipe2010. It just got too hot and changed consistency. I've had rockbudder from RR that would even do it just in my pocket!

My buddy a caregiver that makes errl says if your shatter is turning to wax than they are not making it right. It needs to be a stable. His shatters never do that when it is hot, they just get kinda oily and sticky but they resolidify when i go back indoors in the cooler air. I buy ounces from him all the time and my ac in my car doesnt work so he is doing something different.

Fazer1rlg said:

My buddy a caregiver that makes errl says if your shatter is turning to wax than they are not making it right. It needs to be a stable. His shatters never do that when it is hot, they just get kinda oily and sticky but they resolidify when i go back indoors in the cooler air. I buy ounces from him all the time and my ac in my car doesnt work so he is doing something different.

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Exactly! I make my own now too because I realized how little most dispensaries know or care about chemistry. Plus most places I found make it from lower quality material than I would use personally.

SnapsProvolone said:

Probably auto-buddered from the heat and moisture content. Moisture content might be a little higher due to blasting in warmer temps with high humidity.

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Snaps, I am curious.. Why do you say possibly due to the moisture content being higher?
I am not sure about the moisture content in the actual product, but I do know that in higher humidity areas it is much easier to make stable shatter that will not wax up, and since moving here have found that it is harder to make stable shatter, stuff seems to wax up here more often & it is easier to make wax here, but harder to make shatter. You have to be much more precise on your temps, etc here to get quality shatter in my experience. I assumed this was due to the lower humidity, I may very well be wrong though, this has just been my experiences after blasting for 6 years. I am not trying to argue by all means, but was just curious as to your reasoning for that.. Might learn something new!

Peacepipe, the only main disadvantage I can think of to that is you will probably burn off some of those terpenes being in that high of heat, so it will loose some of it flavor profile.

I'm thinking moisture content simply from experience. I've done runs when its cold outside and there is much less condensed frost on the pyrex, tubes and thus in the butane itself. Water from the air is ending up in the extraction at a greater percentage when ambient temperature is higher due to the greater differential. This, in my open blasting experience, has resulted in a greater tendency to auto budder post purge. Just my experience.

I've learned changing the oil in your vacuum pump regularly helps produce a better consistency of shatter. I think it has a lot to do with the pump "smoking" from the moisture goes back into the camber. If that makes any sense. Heat will definitely auto-butter anything though.

Get a StoK container for your dabs, my dabs don't go bad or lose potency at all in my container I only paid like 3$ for it, enough to store 1 gram approx.

Yodaweed said:

Get a StoK container for your dabs, my dabs don't go bad or lose potency at all in my container I only paid like 3$ for it, enough to store 1 gram approx.

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Haha that's what it was in I have 5 and I love them, don't you see it in the picture.... Lol

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You waxed it..plain and simple. Well its actually pretty complex.
It doesn't mean there was anything wrong with production methods. It usually means the opposite.
Someone mentioned chemistry, think about what makes shatter over goop. And I don't mean gooey poorly extracted material. What do you remember about extractions melting points and chain lengths or just amount of differing comoounds
Really good hash oil should wax up at room temp in a few days. If its true shatter it needs to be winterized and vacced for a good while. But what's the fun in that.

Try just reading the wikipedia page on nucleation and cavitation. Learn about crystallizing. Shit just go learn a bunch of chemistry. You can't come here asking such a question and expect a full response. Its not ONE question and based on false assumptions

Humidity definitely helps

qwizoking said:

You waxed it..plain and simple. Well its actually pretty complex.
It doesn't mean there was anything wrong with production methods. It usually means the opposite.
Someone mentioned chemistry, think about what makes shatter over goop. And I don't mean gooey poorly extracted material. What do you remember about extractions melting points and chain lengths or just amount of differing comoounds
Really good hash oil should wax up at room temp in a few days. If its true shatter it needs to be winterized and vacced for a good while. But what's the fun in that.

Try just reading the wikipedia page on nucleation and cavitation. Learn about crystallizing. Shit just go learn a bunch of chemistry. You can't come here asking such a question and expect a full response. Its not ONE question and based on false assumptions

Humidity definitely helps

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This is spot on great advice.

One thing to clarify though is that sap is affected by humidity content, not only environmental humidity but also the technique of extraction and the state of the product extracting from, whether it is "fresh frozen", "dried and cured", or "fully decarbed (old material)".

^^^These end terms^^^ for the product (trim,flowers) being extracted from are the key difference in the in final product (wax, sap, shatter, flake, honeycomb, amber etc) when it comes to commercially processing people's trash into stash. Of course now open blasting is illegal in CO on the commercial level but it IS ENTIRELY possible to make the finest extracts through open blasting best quality bud.

If you are using a good technique of extraction then you will be hot bath purging after the blasting is commenced so as to boil out the butane as quickly as possible. The fact that butane boils at 30f means that it is almost entirely purged by the time you see it go from boil to magma bubble.

It is at this point that you can whip it to induce more moisture content into the oil to increase overall volume and create a "honeycomb, or flake". Many mad chemists have a secret whipping strategy but really what is important here is freeing any microscopic trapped bubble of tane from your errl.

Depending on how you finish the batch will differentiate between shatter, wax, or flake...

To get a nice dry flakey crumble wax that is neither sticky nor wet you must maintain a relatively low temp and "slowly bake" your pyrex dish. Many mad chemists have a magical temp but for flake you really can't go above 130f, doing so will result in an overheated goo, not bad but you lose your market for all those flake fanatics out there. It greatly helps to use "fresh frozen" material as it tends to "autoflake" much better than "dried and cured", or "decarbed" material.

Important to note that in order to mass produce this quality flakey shit a vacuum oven is preferred although a thermostatically controlled heat mat will suffice.

An as for the shatter (non-absolute) a vacuum pump is your best friend as it greatly allows you to manipulate the end product. Whether your oil is amber or dark goo, one can still create "clean" shatter without a pump. but this next step is GOLD if you find yourself with a tray of oil all ready to be finished but it's dark and sappy do not fret! simply leave your pyrex on a seed heat mat overnight. the longer i leave it the smoother it tends to be. from a day to a wk i've settled upon a simple overnighter. the next morn while the tray is still warm i razer all the yummy gooey sap and place the razors on parchment. It is super important to keep the sap warm like 130-150 so that when you use your vac pump you see the expansion of any air you previously whipped into the product. Keep your vac until it cools fully and then place your razors into the fridge to easily separate the shatter from the blades.

what you have is a product that can be handled at room temp but breaks up like shards and also can look similar to cotton candy, honeycomb, or rock candy.

so to digress to the point of this thread a great shatter will easily goo up in higher temps. if you wanna fix it like i do with other friends bho, simply reheat, rewhip, pull a vac and refrigerate.

you'll have the BOMB oil that doesn't look like RSO....