You waxed it..plain and simple. Well its actually pretty complex.
It doesn't mean there was anything wrong with production methods. It usually means the opposite.
Someone mentioned chemistry, think about what makes shatter over goop. And I don't mean gooey poorly extracted material. What do you remember about extractions melting points and chain lengths or just amount of differing comoounds
Really good hash oil should wax up at room temp in a few days. If its true shatter it needs to be winterized and vacced for a good while. But what's the fun in that.
Try just reading the wikipedia page on nucleation and cavitation. Learn about crystallizing. Shit just go learn a bunch of chemistry. You can't come here asking such a question and expect a full response. Its not ONE question and based on false assumptions
Humidity definitely helps
This is spot on great advice.
One thing to clarify though is that sap is affected by humidity content, not only environmental humidity but also the technique of extraction and the state of the product extracting from, whether it is "fresh frozen", "dried and cured", or "fully decarbed (old material)".
^^^These end terms^^^ for the product (trim,flowers) being extracted from are the key difference in the in final product (wax, sap, shatter, flake, honeycomb, amber etc) when it comes to commercially processing people's trash into stash. Of course now open blasting is illegal in CO on the commercial level but it IS ENTIRELY possible to make the finest extracts through open blasting best quality bud.
If you are using a good technique of extraction then you will be hot bath purging after the blasting is commenced so as to boil out the butane as quickly as possible. The fact that butane boils at 30f means that it is almost entirely purged by the time you see it go from boil to magma bubble.
It is at this point that you can whip it to induce more moisture content into the oil to increase overall volume and create a "honeycomb, or flake". Many mad chemists have a secret whipping strategy but really what is important here is freeing any microscopic trapped bubble of tane from your errl.
Depending on how you finish the batch will differentiate between shatter, wax, or flake...
To get a nice dry flakey crumble wax that is neither sticky nor wet you must maintain a relatively low temp and "slowly bake" your pyrex dish. Many mad chemists have a magical temp but for flake you really can't go above 130f, doing so will result in an overheated goo, not bad but you lose your market for all those flake fanatics out there. It greatly helps to use "fresh frozen" material as it tends to "autoflake" much better than "dried and cured", or "decarbed" material.
Important to note that in order to mass produce this quality flakey shit a vacuum oven is preferred although a thermostatically controlled heat mat will suffice.
An as for the shatter (non-absolute) a vacuum pump is your best friend as it greatly allows you to manipulate the end product. Whether your oil is amber or dark goo, one can still create "clean" shatter without a pump. but this next step is GOLD if you find yourself with a tray of oil all ready to be finished but it's dark and sappy do not fret! simply leave your pyrex on a seed heat mat overnight. the longer i leave it the smoother it tends to be. from a day to a wk i've settled upon a simple overnighter. the next morn while the tray is still warm i razer all the yummy gooey sap and place the razors on parchment. It is super important to keep the sap warm like 130-150 so that when you use your vac pump you see the expansion of any air you previously whipped into the product. Keep your vac until it cools fully and then place your razors into the fridge to easily separate the shatter from the blades.
what you have is a product that can be handled at room temp but breaks up like shards and also can look similar to cotton candy, honeycomb, or rock candy.
so to digress to the point of this thread a great shatter will easily goo up in higher temps. if you wanna fix it like i do with other friends bho, simply reheat, rewhip, pull a vac and refrigerate.
you'll have the BOMB oil that doesn't look like RSO....
