Hey thanks for responding Dawg, I originally posted do you use Vero 29 cobs or a Timber light but I remember reading through your Vero 29 4 & 5k build. From what I’ve seen on here and on other sites plenty of people have experienced the same exact issues with this particular cob vs using other lights. I’m trying to figure out why and how I can fix it so I can take full advantage of this light. I don’t really have an issue other than that. My last grow turned out really good besides some of the lower buds being a bit airy due to low light so I’m trying to fix that issue this time. I can’t take full advantage of the light and I can’t seem to figure out why. I do realize my ppm is high but figured if I stayed under 1200 using well water everything was okay, mega crops feeding calculator states the ppm during week 4 of flower should be 765 plus 250 for sweet candy and bud explosion so that’s 1015. I’m feeding less than the recommend amount and when I was using ro I had a really low ppm but began having issues like what I experienced previously and well water helped a lot then so why not try it again. I don’t foliar feed but your input is really helpful and I’ll remember to do it at light out. I definitely like the idea of using a 2 part calmag and will look up the products you mentioned. I’m using a no nitrogen calmag at this time due to the high amount in mega crop but wouldn’t mind having two separate products. I’m thinking maybe my 2’x4’ tent is just too small to utilize 3 cobs running at max power without running my extraction fan at max along with keeping the area the tent is in really cold so the heat doesn’t get too high.The Problem Is Not The Timber Lamp. Their Are Too Many Successful Grow's On This Website To Prove My Point. The Problem Is This Is Your Second Grow And You Are Very Vague In Most Of Your Responses Plus You Post No Pics And Your Ppm Numbers Are Double What They Should Be In Flower Much Less Veg. You Should Never Foil Feed With The Lamp On Period Foil Feeding Should Happen Right At Lights Out This Allows The Plant to Adsorb What Your Feeding It. When You Foil Feed With Lights On Your Giving Your Plant A Nutrient Burn Not A Feed!! 2ND Mistake I See Is Cal/Mag When You Up The Cal/Mag To Fix A Mag Problem You Create A Cal Lock Out. I Use A Cal Nitrate And A Mag Amp 2 Separate Products. Anyway I'm off To Work Happy Growing
I think that’s going to be the only way to use the light at max power. Raise the light to the roof and use strips for side lighting. Do you have a link to a side lighting strip setup?I Would raise your COB,s and drop in a few strips as side lights
cheers
Mark
I dont buy into completely that lower buds are fluffy and larfy from lack of light. We get big fat buds under the cannopy where theres like really little light if the plant is on point, but you need a nice happy vegg and a really good root ball along with a good cannopy. Some selective pruning/lolipoppin is good aswell, make sure the plant doesnt waste energy on stuff that wont develop well.I think that’s going to be the only way to use the light at max power. Raise the light to the roof and use strips for side lighting. Do you have a link to a side lighting strip setup?
Would raising the Timber to the roof and then lowering my plants in the tent provide more under canopy and side branch lighting vs running the light 18” away dimmed to 3/4 max power? That’s where I’m at now and so far the temps have been 80f-82f and humidity is at 48%. I’m thinking the leaf stress and burn issue could be from higher lux on the sides on the tent from reflection. I’m growing 3 Mephisto autos and the two on the outside are the plants experiencing the most issues now. The middle plant during veg showed signs of a magnesium deficiency, lightening between the veins, but could have been light stress.
I am noticing all the buds on the 3 plants this time are getting big including close to the bottom so maybe I won’t end up with a lot of stringy buds. I forgot to upload pictures last time. The lights are on and I’m sorry about that, maybe I’ll turn everything off tomorrow and take someI dont buy into completely that lower buds are fluffy and larfy from lack of light. We get big fat buds under the cannopy where theres like really little light if the plant is on point, but you need a nice happy vegg and a really good root ball along with a good cannopy. Some selective pruning/lolipoppin is good aswell, make sure the plant doesnt waste energy on stuff that wont develop well.
Yes, you are dead-nuts right but we have to use Mag/Sulph or we have LedDefficiency.
The above papers & notes should be enough to read or better yet study...
Not as easy as to laugh out loud ,though...
Magnesium is a very reactive element .
In the case of Epsom salts ,if applied on the soil / hydro tank some of the Magnesium may react with other compounds ,releasing sulfur oxide gas.In the case of foliar feeding some
Magnesium will be absorbed by the plant(s),while sulfur oxides might escape as gas.
Keep in mind that the amount of
sulfur off gassing from an ordinary
small rubber band ,can damage more
than a few LED devices if the ventilation is inadequate.Let alone
from half a spoon of Epsom salts ...
It’ s the internal reflector (made of actual sterling silver ) of the LED die (“chip”) that tarnishes to black,in contact with sulfur in the form of gas( H2S or S oxides ) .
Many of the pc white LEDs that operate at urban environments do lose 30% to 50%
of their output power ,long before
the 50K hour mark ,due to sulfurization.
Just my 2c.
Cheers.
how do you disolve it in water?Alternative for Magnesium foliar feeding : MgOH
aka Magnesium hydroxide .
dont think low solubility is any good for a foilar spray and avaiability to the plants.Maybe mix with another salt, calcinit or pot sulphate? Or maybe low solubility is a good thing, and ensures we don't apply excessive amounts.
A chelating agent should be used along . Anotherhow do you disolve it in water?
Maybe find a way to convert to a citrate or acetate?dont think low solubility is any good for a foilar spray and avaiability to the plants.
magneisum hydroxide itself shouldnt give much more then 1ppm in water, more like 0.1ppm (?) its 0.00122 g/100 ml.
any idea what would really work to make it sprayable and not kill the plant at the same time?
pot sulphate as solvent (if that would work anyway) should btw. share the same problem as magnesium sulphate.
instead of magnesium hydroxide, magnesium chloride can be maybe a substitute, this is also sold as plant fertilizer btw.
it just introduce quite high chloride levels quick too.