Second Grow Problems With Vero Cobs

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
The Problem Is Not The Timber Lamp. Their Are Too Many Successful Grow's On This Website To Prove My Point. The Problem Is This Is Your Second Grow And You Are Very Vague In Most Of Your Responses Plus You Post No Pics And Your Ppm Numbers Are Double What They Should Be In Flower Much Less Veg. You Should Never Foil Feed With The Lamp On Period Foil Feeding Should Happen Right At Lights Out This Allows The Plant to Adsorb What Your Feeding It. When You Foil Feed With Lights On Your Giving Your Plant A Nutrient Burn Not A Feed!! 2ND Mistake I See Is Cal/Mag When You Up The Cal/Mag To Fix A Mag Problem You Create A Cal Lock Out. I Use A Cal Nitrate And A Mag Amp 2 Separate Products. Anyway I'm off To Work Happy Growing :hump:
 

StonedGimp

Active Member
The Problem Is Not The Timber Lamp. Their Are Too Many Successful Grow's On This Website To Prove My Point. The Problem Is This Is Your Second Grow And You Are Very Vague In Most Of Your Responses Plus You Post No Pics And Your Ppm Numbers Are Double What They Should Be In Flower Much Less Veg. You Should Never Foil Feed With The Lamp On Period Foil Feeding Should Happen Right At Lights Out This Allows The Plant to Adsorb What Your Feeding It. When You Foil Feed With Lights On Your Giving Your Plant A Nutrient Burn Not A Feed!! 2ND Mistake I See Is Cal/Mag When You Up The Cal/Mag To Fix A Mag Problem You Create A Cal Lock Out. I Use A Cal Nitrate And A Mag Amp 2 Separate Products. Anyway I'm off To Work Happy Growing :hump:
Hey thanks for responding Dawg, I originally posted do you use Vero 29 cobs or a Timber light but I remember reading through your Vero 29 4 & 5k build. From what I’ve seen on here and on other sites plenty of people have experienced the same exact issues with this particular cob vs using other lights. I’m trying to figure out why and how I can fix it so I can take full advantage of this light. I don’t really have an issue other than that. My last grow turned out really good besides some of the lower buds being a bit airy due to low light so I’m trying to fix that issue this time. I can’t take full advantage of the light and I can’t seem to figure out why. I do realize my ppm is high but figured if I stayed under 1200 using well water everything was okay, mega crops feeding calculator states the ppm during week 4 of flower should be 765 plus 250 for sweet candy and bud explosion so that’s 1015. I’m feeding less than the recommend amount and when I was using ro I had a really low ppm but began having issues like what I experienced previously and well water helped a lot then so why not try it again. I don’t foliar feed but your input is really helpful and I’ll remember to do it at light out. I definitely like the idea of using a 2 part calmag and will look up the products you mentioned. I’m using a no nitrogen calmag at this time due to the high amount in mega crop but wouldn’t mind having two separate products. I’m thinking maybe my 2’x4’ tent is just too small to utilize 3 cobs running at max power without running my extraction fan at max along with keeping the area the tent is in really cold so the heat doesn’t get too high.
 
Last edited:

StonedGimp

Active Member
I Would raise your COB,s and drop in a few strips as side lights
cheers
Mark
I think that’s going to be the only way to use the light at max power. Raise the light to the roof and use strips for side lighting. Do you have a link to a side lighting strip setup?

Would raising the Timber to the roof and then lowering my plants in the tent provide more under canopy and side branch lighting vs running the light 18” away dimmed to 3/4 max power? That’s where I’m at now and so far the temps have been 80f-82f and humidity is at 48%. I’m thinking the leaf stress and burn issue could be from higher lux on the sides on the tent from reflection. I’m growing 3 Mephisto autos and the two on the outside are the plants experiencing the most issues now. The middle plant during veg showed signs of a magnesium deficiency, lightening between the veins, but could have been light stress.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I think that’s going to be the only way to use the light at max power. Raise the light to the roof and use strips for side lighting. Do you have a link to a side lighting strip setup?

Would raising the Timber to the roof and then lowering my plants in the tent provide more under canopy and side branch lighting vs running the light 18” away dimmed to 3/4 max power? That’s where I’m at now and so far the temps have been 80f-82f and humidity is at 48%. I’m thinking the leaf stress and burn issue could be from higher lux on the sides on the tent from reflection. I’m growing 3 Mephisto autos and the two on the outside are the plants experiencing the most issues now. The middle plant during veg showed signs of a magnesium deficiency, lightening between the veins, but could have been light stress.
I dont buy into completely that lower buds are fluffy and larfy from lack of light. We get big fat buds under the cannopy where theres like really little light if the plant is on point, but you need a nice happy vegg and a really good root ball along with a good cannopy. Some selective pruning/lolipoppin is good aswell, make sure the plant doesnt waste energy on stuff that wont develop well.
 

StonedGimp

Active Member
I dont buy into completely that lower buds are fluffy and larfy from lack of light. We get big fat buds under the cannopy where theres like really little light if the plant is on point, but you need a nice happy vegg and a really good root ball along with a good cannopy. Some selective pruning/lolipoppin is good aswell, make sure the plant doesnt waste energy on stuff that wont develop well.
I am noticing all the buds on the 3 plants this time are getting big including close to the bottom so maybe I won’t end up with a lot of stringy buds. I forgot to upload pictures last time. The lights are on and I’m sorry about that, maybe I’ll turn everything off tomorrow and take some

Mephisto Cosmic Queen Sativa Hybrid5AD6F87D-7FEE-455E-BFA5-510B53AD2A2D.jpeg8CD7A9DF-87AF-4133-9C28-7DC555ABD84D.jpeg

Mephisto Ghost Toof Indica Hybrid
EE13EED4-E761-4A88-A083-2C86F700CAE8.jpeg3EF2949E-E0B8-4076-9D30-34A678284677.jpeg

Mephisto Creme Da La Chem Indica Hybrid4B501C89-42F4-4B89-A904-34D8BF4AB865.jpeg
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill







The above papers & notes should be enough to read or better yet study...
Not as easy as to laugh out loud ,though...


Magnesium is a very reactive element .
In the case of Epsom salts ,if applied on the soil / hydro tank some of the Magnesium may react with other compounds ,releasing sulfur oxide gas.In the case of foliar feeding some
Magnesium will be absorbed by the plant(s),while sulfur oxides might escape as gas.

Keep in mind that the amount of
sulfur off gassing from an ordinary
small rubber band ,can damage more
than a few LED devices if the ventilation is inadequate.Let alone
from half a spoon of Epsom salts ...

It’ s the internal reflector (made of actual sterling silver ) of the LED die (“chip”) that tarnishes to black,in contact with sulfur in the form of gas( H2S or S oxides ) .
Many of the pc white LEDs that operate at urban environments do lose 30% to 50%
of their output power ,long before
the 50K hour mark ,due to sulfurization.

Just my 2c.
Cheers.
Yes, you are dead-nuts right but we have to use Mag/Sulph or we have LedDefficiency.
The only two main factors in the lifespan of a diode is:
A) Heat = AKA Build Quality of the unit.
B) Environmental Damage (what you explained along with a ton of other hazards) to raw doides with no primary cover like 1,3+5w chips have. That's why i only advocate Sealed Diode Horticultural lighting.
Those are the 2 diode killers.
So, OMG, All those guys fighting LedDefficiency using Epsom foliar spray under their Raw Diode Lights are perrty much not trying to hear us rn. Oh, well.
 

welight

Well-Known Member
I would agree auto's dont need as much light but I believe they want a fuller spectrum to account for lower light levels ie 90 CRI+. Side lighting is a whole subject matter but I have customers who swear by in terms of yield
Cheers
Mark
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Seems like spectrum effects like emmerson is stronger in low light which would also support this. Auto grower seems to have a lot more love for the blurple than reg growers
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Here's My 2x4 Running 295 Watts Of Citizen Cobs. Plus I Have Added My Own Timber Grow Light Thread. Judging From Your Pics You Are Over Feeding Your Plants. Next Grow Drop Your Ppms By 1/2 And See What You Get. If It Was A Light Problem Your Pistils/ Hairs Would Be Burnt Looking And Receding. Also Turn Down Your Extraction Fan To Low And Raise Your Canopy Temperature 80/85 Is The Sweet Spot For Led's :hump:


IMG_7455.JPG
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
Maybe mix with another salt, calcinit or pot sulphate? Or maybe low solubility is a good thing, and ensures we don't apply excessive amounts.
dont think low solubility is any good for a foilar spray and avaiability to the plants.
magneisum hydroxide itself shouldnt give much more then 1ppm in water, more like 0.1ppm (?) its 0.00122 g/100 ml.

any idea what would really work to make it sprayable and not kill the plant at the same time?
pot sulphate as solvent (if that would work anyway) should btw. share the same problem as magnesium sulphate.

instead of magnesium hydroxide, magnesium chloride can be maybe a substitute, this is also sold as plant fertilizer btw.
it just introduce quite high chloride levels quick too.
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
dont think low solubility is any good for a foilar spray and avaiability to the plants.
magneisum hydroxide itself shouldnt give much more then 1ppm in water, more like 0.1ppm (?) its 0.00122 g/100 ml.

any idea what would really work to make it sprayable and not kill the plant at the same time?
pot sulphate as solvent (if that would work anyway) should btw. share the same problem as magnesium sulphate.

instead of magnesium hydroxide, magnesium chloride can be maybe a substitute, this is also sold as plant fertilizer btw.
it just introduce quite high chloride levels quick too.
Maybe find a way to convert to a citrate or acetate?
(Have to be cautious if you are in EU or UK. Due to actions of certain people with backpacks, (and asshats splashing shit in peoples faces) some laws have been updated. Products which the serious gardener might have been able to buy for their hobby, might contain substances that have now become "reportable substances". Vendors have to cover themselves and submit report details. Check EU reg No 98/2013, or google "uk reportable substances 1.2".)
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
well, i would need a complete receipe or any other real description before i would try anything there on the plants.
my internet serached didnt brought up much.
dont think its that trivial making magneisum hydroxide plant avaiable, like its not so easy to chealte calcium maybe (which is expensive stuff).
Youre right with the laws one should be carefull with what he buys.
Magnesium Nitrate isnt easy to get btw., just one source in my country and its in suspension form allready... could mean something.
woud conclude the good old, good to have calmag, which is often only calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate is then the best.
 
Top