Questions about setting up my attic for a grow +rep

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oOBe RyeOo

Active Member
Questions:

1. How do I deal with my vents in my attic once I insulate it? Can I just cover them since I will be running some vents to the attic connecting it to my central air?

2. How important is the R-value when selecting insulation? I have a lot to insulate and the insulation looks like it's gonna cost me more than everything else to build the room.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
StonedBlownSkiller

StonedBlownSkiller

Well-Known Member
1. you still need some outbound exaust. i would run exaust to attic vent and cover rest.
2.good insulation quiets the blowers and holds its temps better.
in the attic, if its too hot ur plants will suffer so the insulation is worth money or you be battling heat like me.
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
the higher the r-value, the better the insulation, and thats pretty much it. your local climate needs to be taken into consideration more than anything else when selecting r-values. do you have extreme temp swings between summer and winter, like colorado, alaska, nevada? then you need a higher r value. or are you in a temperate climate, such as oregon, the carolinas, ga? then you need a lesser r value. insulation sux, but if you dont spend the cash to do it right, yourladies will roast all summer and freeze all winter, and youll be wondering why they grow so slow ;)

as long as the air in your attic is being exchanged, somehow, then you will be fine. the attic vents are in place to let superheated summertime air out of the attic, so that the extreme heat does not ruin your shingles and buckle the roof, so as long as your grow room is climate controlled, and any other space in the attic not being insulated and drywalled still has vents, you will be fine.
 
StonedBlownSkiller

StonedBlownSkiller

Well-Known Member
IAm5toned said:
the higher the r-value, the better the insulation, and thats pretty much it. your local climate needs to be taken into consideration more than anything else when selecting r-values. do you have extreme temp swings between summer and winter, like colorado, alaska, nevada? then you need a higher r value. or are you in a temperate climate, such as oregon, the carolinas, ga? then you need a lesser r value. insulation sux, but if you dont spend the cash to do it right, yourladies will roast all summer and freeze all winter, and youll be wondering why they grow so slow ;)

as long as the air in your attic is being exchanged, somehow, then you will be fine. the attic vents are in place to let superheated summertime air out of the attic, so that the extreme heat does not ruin your shingles and buckle the roof, so as long as your grow room is climate controlled, and any other space in the attic not being insulated and drywalled still has vents, you will be fine.
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i forgot to mention local climate and thats my problem,,,,ha thanks for coverin for me. lol
 
O

oOBe RyeOo

Active Member
IAm5toned said:
the higher the r-value, the better the insulation, and thats pretty much it. your local climate needs to be taken into consideration more than anything else when selecting r-values. do you have extreme temp swings between summer and winter, like colorado, alaska, nevada? then you need a higher r value. or are you in a temperate climate, such as oregon, the carolinas, ga? then you need a lesser r value. insulation sux, but if you dont spend the cash to do it right, yourladies will roast all summer and freeze all winter, and youll be wondering why they grow so slow ;)
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I figured as much:wall: I live around MI, IL, IN, OH, TN and KY area. During the summer it doesn't really get hotter than 100*f but it's been staying around 85 to high 90's this summer. Winters are not to bad but we do get snow and chilly winds (average around 17*f-35*f in January). Knowing that, do you think I could get away with R-13/19 or do I have to splurge for the R-30?

Thanks for all the help, Stoned. Might as well stick around since you've been answering all my questions lol. In 2 months I'll be ready to build once it's not so hot in the attic.
 
StonedBlownSkiller

StonedBlownSkiller

Well-Known Member
if your gonna run AC than get some medium insulation, cheap for real because lights will heat up in winter and you got AC for summer. if your lights arent hot enough than you can get a small heater. attics seem to hold heat good regardless since heat rises. all the heat in ur house will help heat it for winter. the AC will make a big difference. if you werent gonna use on I would say go balls to the wall with expensive insulation but.....youll be good with some reg insulation. basement insulation is best for whatever because it releases humidity.
 
O

oOBe RyeOo

Active Member
StonedBlownSkiller said:
if your gonna run AC than get some medium insulation, cheap for real because lights will heat up in winter and you got AC for summer. if your lights arent hot enough than you can get a small heater. attics seem to hold heat good regardless since heat rises. all the heat in ur house will help heat it for winter. the AC will make a big difference. if you werent gonna use on I would say go balls to the wall with expensive insulation but.....youll be good with some reg insulation. basement insulation is best for whatever because it releases humidity.
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During the winter I'll be able to run heat to the room through central air. So, I still don't know if what to do, don't want to go sub par and realize I needed the better stuff. Might just have to meet somewhere in the middle on this one.
 
StonedBlownSkiller

StonedBlownSkiller

Well-Known Member
oOBe RyeOo said:
During the winter I'll be able to run heat to the room through central air. So, I still don't know if what to do, don't want to go sub par and realize I needed the better stuff. Might just have to meet somewhere in the middle on this one.
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well I dont know your budget or grow are size but there is a insulated board for roofing. In Ohio we call it fuzz board. It is the same size sheets as OSB. It is so heat doesnt penetrate through you roof and keep heat out. it would be same for you if you insulated with it. it goes for about 6 bux a sheet.
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
were in the same geographical area..........

you could put r30 on the roof side of the room, and r 15 on the walls, and split the difference... the roof itself is going to be where the heat comes from, not the sides.
and SBS is 100% correct about not needing heat in the winter. a 400w alone usually puts off enough to heat a 12 x 12 inulated area very nicely. if it is still too cold, then you can get a tiny little space heater for lights out period.
 
StonedBlownSkiller

StonedBlownSkiller

Well-Known Member
IAm5toned said:
were in the same geographical area..........

you could put r30 on the roof side of the room, and r 15 on the walls, and split the difference... the roof itself is going to be where the heat comes from, not the sides.
and SBS is 100% correct about not needing heat in the winter. a 400w alone usually puts off enough to heat a 12 x 12 inulated area very nicely. if it is still too cold, then you can get a tiny little space heater for lights out period.
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yea what he said....lol
 
O

oOBe RyeOo

Active Member
IAm5toned said:
were in the same geographical area..........

you could put r30 on the roof side of the room, and r 15 on the walls, and split the difference... the roof itself is going to be where the heat comes from, not the sides.
and SBS is 100% correct about not needing heat in the winter. a 400w alone usually puts off enough to heat a 12 x 12 inulated area very nicely. if it is still too cold, then you can get a tiny little space heater for lights out period.
Click to expand...
Yeah, guess that's the road I'll have to take.

You're an electrician right? Could you tell me how I can put in a breaker in the breaker box without killing myself? Do you just throw the main breaker and you're good to go?
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
well its a little mor ecomplicated than that, but your on the right path.... shut off the main, remove the outer cover and the deadfront (sometimes there the same peice) snap the breaker in and make sure it is in the off position, make sure to remove the slot on the panel cover so the new breaker will fit, attach your new field wiring, put it all back together and turn on the main. then turn on the new breaker. adding a breaker is one of the easiest things to do. its harder to cut in a new plug to an existing wall than to add a new circuit to a panel in most situations.
 
O

oOBe RyeOo

Active Member
IAm5toned said:
well its a little mor ecomplicated than that, but your on the right path.... shut off the main, remove the outer cover and the deadfront (sometimes there the same peice) snap the breaker in and make sure it is in the off position, make sure to remove the slot on the panel cover so the new breaker will fit, attach your new field wiring, put it all back together and turn on the main. then turn on the new breaker. adding a breaker is one of the easiest things to do. its harder to cut in a new plug to an existing wall than to add a new circuit to a panel in most situations.
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Man, I thought I would be harder than that. I was hoping I can use some sort of rod to guide the new wires either to or from the attic.


Don't mean to bug you, just trying to plan for the worst and hope for the best. You know?
 
Mountainfarmer

Mountainfarmer

Well-Known Member
IAm5toned said:
were in the same geographical area..........

you could put r30 on the roof side of the room, and r 15 on the walls, and split the difference... the roof itself is going to be where the heat comes from, not the sides.
and SBS is 100% correct about not needing heat in the winter. a 400w alone usually puts off enough to heat a 12 x 12 inulated area very nicely. if it is still too cold, then you can get a tiny little space heater for lights out period.
Click to expand...
you will need heat when the lights are off. A little research will show that an attic is the absolute worst place to set up a grow. I think you will find it impossible to regulate without lots of costly modifications. Especially if the dwelling is inhabited.
 
J

joeybuds

Active Member
Quick Question, is the insulation a fire hazard? I have heard conflicting posts. The conclusion I came to is the wool is not flammable, just the paper barrier. Quote from U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission from 1977 "While mineral wools themselves pose no flammability problem, some of their paper vapor barriers are flammables."
 
TheRachShow

TheRachShow

Well-Known Member
joeybuds said:
Quick Question, is the insulation a fire hazard? I have heard conflicting posts. The conclusion I came to is the wool is not flammable, just the paper barrier. Quote from U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission from 1977 "While mineral wools themselves pose no flammability problem, some of their paper vapor barriers are flammables."
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Insulation is not flammable. If it were, it would not be a regulation by the government to insulate a house before it's built.

Now as to the insulation in an attic, I'm a licensed sub-contractor and I used to blow insulation into attics all the time. When you're insulating something like a grow room the R-Value is not going to be that big of a concern as the only difference is price. (between R Values) But if you do decide to start an attic grow, I highly suggest cutting in a new roof vent directly above from where you're going to have the room setup in or you won't be properly ventilated and it could be bad news for your plants.
 
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