Oh damn, now I see what these mini-splits are. I thought they were a single unitI think you have the right idea by staying small and figuring out all the details to getting your maximum GPW and the highest quality as well. I would not vent vent the hot air into your lung room your going to drive those temps up so fast your concrete walls wont help you much. This winter I heated my entire two story house with only the heat coming off the air cooled lights. We had temps in high teens for a few weeks and I never saw the temp drop below 68 degree Fahrenheit. What your saying about the portable AC sounds like common sense, but surprisingly most portable AC take air out of the room they are cooling and vent it out the window to cool the compressor. I was able to seal my last one pretty good by taking it apart entirely and building a box around the compressor and sealing it. Even with all of that effort I still had smells escaping, your best bet is a mini-split if you can afford it and have a good spot for it outside.
Mini-Splits are the ideal in my opinion. Yes you can get kits to install with precharged line with cord sets greater than 25'. You would want to buy a unit that has a winter package to go down to those temps, most will not on their own. When considering where to place out door unit realize that these things move a lot of air and that you shouldn't obstruct the air path, however, I would imagine putting it under a table or something like that would be find.
The dual hose ac is perfect.....I have one in my sealed room.....this is the only way to keep the co2 in. The unit does not take out any air, or put any back that wasn't already there. Go with that......I do have a seperate dehumidifier though. Better control, and a big pan because I can't drain into a floor. I just empty daily.
but what about exhausting smellthats what ive been told aswell,the portable ones that keep the air in keeping the room cool and Co2 in without bringing in air from outside,and only exhaust heat.
We've gone over all of this in the threadbut what about exhausting smell
I've been using chillers for a long time. I started off using Ice Boxes but now we have a water cooled air handler and we just duct the lights back to the air handler return.AS your not getting this right away here is something to think about also. Chiller's are almost 50% more effective at cooling than AC and you can buy an icebox to fit your lights or just blowing in the room to cool it.
http://www.growlightexpress.com/water-cooled-lights-8/ice-box-heat-exchanger-6-inch-306.html
http://www.growlightexpress.com/water-chillers-60/?zenid=au5h3ccivg28ruho6ftu4g0in7
To cool the water you would need 1/4 hp minimum water chiller per 1000 watt reflector-yes, chillers use energy but not as much energy as a/c! Remember how much more efficient water cooling is than air. If additional cooling is needed for hot environments the Ice Box Heat Exchanger itself can also be easily daisy chained for cooling power that is doubled, tripled, etc.
Fnominon that's not huge? 18000btu, it's a minisplitMight have to get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Klimaire-18000-ductless-conditioner-installation/dp/B002C01TVK
I wonder if a landlord is going to ask questions if i offer to put one of these in the garage at my own expense.
An opinion that's been drilled into everyone looking for one. Now let's say we were dead set and had no other options to cool a 4x4 tent with a 1k hps. Which company and model would you suggest on the understanding that COLD AIR is the most important thing.Hello. I am a new to rui, and this is my very first post. I happen to work for an appliance company, and happen to know from first hand experience that 8 out of 10 portable air conditioners do not work very well. They do work as a dehumidifier, as any thing that makes the air cold does, although there is usually not a rh% setting, it will function set on the temperature it is set at. Typically most units will either fill up a bucket with water that you will have to empty, or have a drain hose you will need to drain into something(and once the bucket fills, it will shut off if you cannot watch closely). The hoses (either 1 or 2 depending on the brand) are usually not very good quality, and would need some kind of support because they are thick and heavy. I had a basement bedroom once with no Windows, and what I did was to put a regular window a/c in the door frame on the floor, and seal the door frame around the air conditioner with towels, or something similar to keep the cool in. This would probably be the most efficient and least expensive, but not the most convenient. Granted, I only used mine as a bedroom cooling unit not a production cooling unit, but you can get the same or more BTU's of cooling. Another option would be to cut a hole in a wall, and use 2x4's to frame the opening to hold the window/wall air conditioner. The a/c would have to be able to be mounted in a wall, some aren't. I would recommend any other possible option other than a portable air conditioner. I would only use a portable if there was no other option. I hope this helps. Good luck.