Pure psychedelic sativa 12/12 from seed 150W HPS grow

dunno about u guys, but for me it's so stressing not to see my girls for 1 week.. like sitting on needles 2000km away from them lol... on the other hand progress is wayyyy more noticeable than seeing them twice a day..

damn i wish could toke your cindies Kite with their trippyness maxed out. prob i'd see 3 dimensional "cartoons on my walls" lol

i hear ya man. let me tell you something, i left my plants for a week, threw them by the windowsill and made them a sip tray. they looked a little less green than usual, but healthier than ever from just leaving em be for a bit!

yeah man I just back from a business trip, scary as shit leaving the girls lol. But they are hardy plants! I know yours will be fine.

PS. Kite, nice harvest man, im jelly

b.real said:

i hear ya man. let me tell you something, i left my plants for a week, threw them by the windowsill and made them a sip tray. they looked a little less green than usual, but healthier than ever from just leaving em be for a bit!

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lol you contradicted yourself. "Less green than usual...but healthier than ever". But yeah...I tend to leave mine alone for a few days every once in a while so I can see some progress.

g00sEgg said:

lol you contradicted yourself. "Less green than usual...but healthier than ever". But yeah...I tend to leave mine alone for a few days every once in a while so I can see some progress.

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they grow better when they arent stressed by an abundance of nitrogen. im going to start knocking off A LOT of nitrogen in bloom to try and get the smoothest smoke possible.

my thc bomb was partially flushed and its so much more smooth than any of my other "green" pulls.

Taste and aroma are from drying curing correctly. Flushing pre harvest is harmful not beneficial and N is needed til the end

Kite High said:

Taste and aroma are from drying curing correctly. Flushing pre harvest is harmful not beneficial and N is needed til the end

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i was reading about the nitrogen cycle and what nitrogen really is (type of gas), and if the fertilizer is in the flower or sugar leaf after harvest, it wont make its way out of the bud during the dry. during the dry the stem closes its wounds and tries to keep all water and food inside. a cure can help distribute everything throughout the buds, so its not in a concetrated area in the bud, which only helps the product. the real deciding factor though is the flush.

a proper flush helps the bud be super smooth. my thc bomb is super smooth, my diesel was not flushed well and is harsh, and master kush was ok.

if you use synthetics, the direct element/mineral/whatever that hasnt been processed by a plant or animal first (organics through a fish, or through an earthworm or a horse as manure) then youll be inhaling harsh proteins.

franko from green house seeds suggests removing fan leaves 2-3 weeks before harvest in order for it to stop making so much sugar. when we grow food like tomatoes, we want proper startch in the fruits to give it a nice taste, all the way up until harvest, but when we want flowers to inhale we want everything out of them. .

flush article: http://www.strainhunters.com/site/index.php/index.html/_/articles/grow-articles/francos-tricks-on-flushing-the-medium-r44

i like a simple flush a week prior to harvest with tap water (low ec attaches to solutes in soil and pulls em out) and then a final flush couple days before harvest with filtered water if im not lazy. if i use a 64 oz pot i flush with 64 oz, sometimes a little more if im not lazy lol

sorry, he didnt say remove fan leaves 2-3 weeks before harvest he said this:

"Pre-harvesting means removing most of the large fan-leaves from the plants during the last days of the flowering cycle, before cutting them down for manicuring and drying. Pre-harvesting helps reducing the total amount of green material (water and chlorophyll) in the crop. Once the big fan-leaves (the ones that have no resin on) have been removed, the plants reduce the amount of photosynthesis, and produce less starches. This allows for sweeter and better-burning weed, and makes the whole harvesting process much easier and faster.
In conclusion, it is up to the grower to identify the weakest points of the grow, and improve from there. Curiosity and will to improve are the key factors to a green thumb. During flowering, a lot can be done to ensure a great crop; and it’s all worth it."

for you heavy feeders..this is the lockout thats "around the corner" that im glad you saved your plant from simisimis

"In earth, salts build up at a slower pace than in hydroponics, but it is also more difficult to wash them away. Once the fertilization program is under way, it will take 3 to 4 weeks for salts to start building up, and another week before it can do any harm to the plants. Therefore, it is advisable to start flushing plants that are growing in earth around week 5-6 of the cycle.
"

b.real said:

flush article: http://www.strainhunters.com/site/index.php/index.html/_/articles/grow-articles/francos-tricks-on-flushing-the-medium-r44

i like a simple flush a week prior to harvest with tap water (low ec attaches to solutes in soil and pulls em out) and then a final flush couple days before harvest with filtered water if im not lazy. if i use a 64 oz pot i flush with 64 oz, sometimes a little more if im not lazy lol

sorry, he didnt say remove fan leaves 2-3 weeks before harvest he said this:

"Pre-harvesting means removing most of the large fan-leaves from the plants during the last days of the flowering cycle, before cutting them down for manicuring and drying. Pre-harvesting helps reducing the total amount of green material (water and chlorophyll) in the crop. Once the big fan-leaves (the ones that have no resin on) have been removed, the plants reduce the amount of photosynthesis, and produce less starches. This allows for sweeter and better-burning weed, and makes the whole harvesting process much easier and faster.
In conclusion, it is up to the grower to identify the weakest points of the grow, and improve from there. Curiosity and will to improve are the key factors to a green thumb. During flowering, a lot can be done to ensure a great crop; and it’s all worth it."

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Stainhunters!! LMFAO!! Ok believe all their lies and learn the hard way. I am not arguing this again for the millionth time. It just bullshit hype and has not a shred of botany in it.

thats fine, i know that when my flowers are less green they are a lot more smooth. this is the main reason i started growing, street buds around here HURT.

to each his own.

b.real said:

thats fine, i know that when my flowers are less green they are a lot more smooth. this is the main reason i started growing, street buds around here HURT.

to each his own.

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Do you use high P bloom fertilizers to boost flower production?

currently 2-2-2 fish food and 4-4-4 organic meal granules. switching to 1-2-2 biobizz bloom i think

some examples of flushing. master kush was not properly flushed, so she was a bit harsh, but an amazing smoke none the less. cheesy kush.

(kush x skunk #1) perfect example/pheno of it



first ever acid/diesel harvest..gonna get my windowsill plants flat like a fish like my lstd nice pheno of acid. all smoke is the same, but some plants have different growing patterns. you can see the dark and the lighter plant..the small one was flushed better..guess big girl needed more water for flushing

awesome phenos from the same hermie acid parent. i grow the hermie every season and she gives me some seeds wauahaha

(chemdawg x super skunk x n.l.) one bad pheno. you can see the skunk in both of course..the crazy growing chemdawg in veg espeically, skunk ALWAYS wins after stretch.. n.l. im not so sure about it, its hidden haha



currently flushing jamaicas blackout kush. nice strong smell like chemdawg, but different. more chocolatey yess lol

nevermind...keep flushing....Keep em green

b.real you wrote so much about flushing, but none of how the plants were cured. i do not believe that flushing theory, not anymore as it is practice which 30+ years growers do not use.. i kept my plants all green till the end and cured them with humidipacks that has two way 62% rh control, taste from them was soft as silk. while my flushed plant was all yellow on harvest day, flushed and not fed for 10 days, tasted not only harsh but also had old grass taste... that one was drying and jar burping method... I'm planning to keep them green till the day i'll chop them

thats fine. ive grown plants green to end, and ive also flushed hard (by accident!), and i can tell you 100% the flushed bud is more smooth.

to dry i cut fan leaves and hang for 5-7 days. then i cut the flowers from the stems and i lay them down to dry for another 2-3 days (they dry a lot quicker when cut from the stalk). i then jar and burp 1-2 times a day.

if they flowers are still too damp and sticking together ill leave the jar open during the day and close it overnight since the humidity is usually higher at night.

Hey ho!

Finally got back home.. my god, weekend was exhausting... that's what happens when you go away from your family and friends for more than half a year.. Well anyway my plants survived, so here's the update.

Destroyer:
I think that it's pretty safe to say that destroyer really stopped stretching, cause in those 6 days it grew maybe half of an inch. It's green as (green)fuck lol. BUT I saw one very interesting change on it. Leaves got some shiny surface, plastic-like and this changed after I added potassium silicate. Must be related. It's impossible to see the stem, it's so heavily loaded with leaves and budsites and short internodes. I was wondering whether microkote takes parts in this plant structure or it's only genes, anyway I'm very happy with this plant. Those 4 colas are fattening and looking nice, although side branches which managed to get the same height as main colas are way skinnier. One of the main colas tops split into two, you can see that in pics. Looks like I said everything I wanted about destroyer, lets proceed further

Zamaldelica:
Oh bhoy.. I guess this is the time when quite a lot of people should start saying - "I told you so" ))))
well she decided to grow not the way I expected lol. side branches which was equal with main colas stretched like 5-7 inches, long internodes, not much of budsites, but main colas stayed in the same place, probably did not grow even an inch, but produced a bit of stigmas. It's a pity I did not take pictures yesterday before training so I could show you how it looked. Was too tired from journey. After training plant was again at the same level, but oh my.. it's becoming a real mess in there lol, however I still have that 1 foot of grow space for them. But really if for destroyer there's 7-8 weeks left, so for zamaldelica it should be still 12-14... they look sooo far away from each other. Also because zamal is so skinny and stretchy, I can see everything clearly in there, light can penetrate all the way to the bottom.
Yesterday I finally watered zamal (for the first time after leaching it) with silica and other nutes, she showed a bit of N deficiency on her lowest nodes. It really surprises me that those 5 gallons stayed wet for 14 days lol...

So.. The pics. There are a lot of them, I know, but some show lanky stems curled around the cage, some shows leaves affected by silica, some colas, so make sure you pay attention to the details, not just fast scroll them

Destroyer:


Zamaldelica:

Looking good man! Looks like Zamal is finally figuring out that whole flowering thing.

btw, i received tds meter today, not that i would use it a lot, just a thing to have in my growkit, so i wanted to ask somth. is european ppm the same as us? prob it is, just don't want to get surprised like with npk values )) another thing, if my tap water is like 298ppm, can you describe my water from this measure? thanks guys!