Powdery Mildew and Eagle 20

This was a great thread to read. I figured id add something for the op. You mentioned that you had pm starting on plants all around the greenhouse. I too had the same issue. Pm started on dying plants as the season changed. Some weeds were dying and as they slowly parished they would start to get pm which spread to the plants. I got rid of mine with baking soda, soap, and water. Only two aplications. But at the same time i would spray all the ground inside and around the greenhouse 10 feet out with a vinegar solution made from some cleaning grade vinegar found at walley world for a couple bucks a gallon. I found the recipe online and its way better than the super toxic herbicides. It killed everything i sprayed it on in two days and then when a few things started growing back i hit it again. 40 bucks and an atomizer fixed it.

HydroRed said:

As mentioned, the only way your gonna really "cure" anything is with a systemic, but they come with half lives. If you are looking to get rid of it to get you through to the end of a crop then H2o2,green cure,etc are what will help get you to the finish line. I'll agree that if jyou have it re-occouring then there is some element in your room that is allowing it to continue to find its way in your grow room whether it be by your pet, your ventiliation, clones you bring in etc. Make sure you have a hepa filter on your inlet, always wash up, kick off shoes at the door, keep pets out of the room, quarantine ALL outside sourced clones, extensive cleanings in between runs (bleach equipment,walls,floors), etc. Hope this helps.

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I concur, and have been practicing most of these sterile hygene methods, except I never kick my shoes off lol. I have carbon scrubbers, which filter OUT so I DONT think I really need a HEPA, but I bet it wouldn't hurt. Another thing Yoda mentioned was the Chitin method...which sounds very similar to what silica's role in a plant is... maybe the combination of the two will fend off the PM via the plants own defense mechanisms. ie/produce its own toxins to kill PM , or build up cell wall strength enough to where PM cant penetrate. These would be considered organic methods as 'systemic'?

Yodaweed said:

If your crop has been ruined you didn't grow it right, preventative measures and proper nutrients can and will prevent PM . The use of chitin and chitosan is proven to prevent powdery mildew ,botrytis and numerous other fungal pathogens.

Chitin fortifies a plant from the inside out, causing an "auto-immune" response that signals a plant to produce natural toxins which fend off its natural enemies like pests and fungal pathogens. The EPA says that chitin and chitosan (see FAQ's) defend against botrytis (grey mold), powdery mildew, early and late blight, fungal pathogens in the root zone (root rot) and root-feeding nematodes.

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Insect frass, yeah?

IronLunG710 said:

Insect frass, yeah?

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Yep , or crushed up crab/fish/lobster shells.

Yodaweed said:

Yep , or crushed up crab/fish/lobster shells.

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Nice, I am currently looking into obtaining a sample of chitinase from Trichoderma viride...via Creative Enzymes.com . I'm hoping it will have a synergistic effect with the Serenade ( Bacillus subtilis ). / that and re-cleaning everything with bleach

IronLunG710 said:

I concur, and have been practicing most of these sterile hygene methods, except I never kick my shoes off lol. I have carbon scrubbers, which filter OUT so I DONT think I really need a HEPA, but I bet it wouldn't hurt. Another thing Yoda mentioned was the Chitin method...which sounds very similar to what silica's role in a plant is... maybe the combination of the two will fend off the PM via the plants own defense mechanisms. ie/produce its own toxins to kill PM , or build up cell wall strength enough to where PM cant penetrate. These would be considered organic methods as 'systemic'?

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Hepa filter on the inlet. Carbon on the outlet. I rely on outside air for my rooms so I run a hepa filter on my inlet. I am also running UV lighting in my room with my HPS which the UV is supposed to keep pm in check. I currently dont have enough experience with the UV to form an opinion yet, but hear lots of good things about its addition to the grow room being very effective.

HydroRed said:

Hepa filter on the inlet. Carbon on the outlet. I rely on outside air for my rooms so I run a hepa filter on my inlet. I am also running UV lighting in my room with my HPS which the UV is supposed to keep pm in check. I currently dont have enough experience with the UV to form an opinion yet, but hear lots of good things about its addition to the grow room being very effective.

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Stellar idea, I have no filter on the intake side...and figured I would be safe considering there used to be a hepa filter in the adjacent room. I have accepted the fact that my only option is to start over with new genetics after some thorough cleaning. New genetics will have chitin and more silica in their fertilizer regimen, with increased filtration of air and a bi-weekly sulfur burn as preventative maintenance. keepin it 100rganic !

HydroRed said:

Hepa filter on the inlet. Carbon on the outlet. I rely on outside air for my rooms so I run a hepa filter on my inlet. I am also running UV lighting in my room with my HPS which the UV is supposed to keep pm in check. I currently dont have enough experience with the UV to form an opinion yet, but hear lots of good things about its addition to the grow room being very effective.

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Isn't uvc the one that kills mold spores? And that's like killer to everything unless I'm way off if I am let me know but pretty sure we want uvb and uva both don't kill mold spores as far as I know

Afgan King said:

Isn't uvc the one that kills mold spores? And that's like killer to everything unless I'm way off if I am let me know but pretty sure we want uvb and uva both don't kill mold spores as far as I know

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UV-C is pretty potent and is usually found in hospitals and such, and are also enclosed in HVAC systems as the air purifier. Im using the AgroMax 10K UV-A "Plus" bulbs which dont need to be put on a seperate timer. UV-B & C on the other hand require short intervals or damage will occour to the plant. My understanding is that all forms of UV work against PM, but some harder than others. I like the 10K UV-A's so far because they are far blue and appear to be working great along with the HPS's red spectrum. I think the bulbs I got are considered the "finishers" according to AgroMax. I'm hardly half way through my first flower with them so we'll see.

IronLunG710 said:

Stellar idea, I have no filter on the intake side...and figured I would be safe considering there used to be a hepa filter in the adjacent room. I have accepted the fact that my only option is to start over with new genetics after some thorough cleaning. New genetics will have chitin and more silica in their fertilizer regimen, with increased filtration of air and a bi-weekly sulfur burn as preventative maintenance. keepin it 100rganic !

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Ya unless you have a momma that you just cant stand to lose sometimes starting over is the right way to do it. I had got russet mites once and instead of battling with them I just killed off the mommas and closed up shop for a week and completely nuked the whole spot. I lost one of my favorite mommas but between the nuke and a solid maintenance schedule, I havent seen a bad bug since (knock on wood).

Afgan King said:

100% systemic please look it up.

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PM is 100% NOT systemic, systemic means that it is/can be absorbed into the plants tissue, dissolved into the liquid state, and is transported throughout the plant via the xylem and phloem. If you know anything about plants at all the xylem and phloem are the water and nutrient transport veins within the plant tissue like our own circulatory system.

Now back to the PM, which is a topical fungal disease 100% zero debate academic known fact, which can in no way be transformed into a dissolved liquid state that could be transported within the plants xylem or phloem to other areas of the plant. Pm is just that, topical fungus. The hyphae are like a small system of roots into the leaf material that being to eat the plants nutients and grow to the visible bloom stage. like weeds in the garden people often clean the tops away but dont kill the roots and the tops bloom again.

Systemic fungicides work because they attack the PM hyphae from the inside, aka the roots. NOT because PM is systemic, which it is not, but because the fungicide can be spread throughout the plant via xylem and phloem to make all the plat tissue uninhabitable for the PM spore ot take hold.

If anyone here thinks they can try to explain/prove that PM is systemic, how a fungal spore could possibly enter a plant cell in a leaf, then that cell be transported up the stalk and back out to other stems and leaves and move about inside the plant place to place, Please Please try...i have all the time in the world..... and actual science (published university research studies, not Jorge Cervantes <-- joke) )to back what i say,

i love all my stoner brothers out there but for F#&ks sake read some damn books and educate yourselves and stop spreading BS myths.

Afgan King said:

Isn't uvc the one that kills mold spores? And that's like killer to everything unless I'm way off if I am let me know but pretty sure we want uvb and uva both don't kill mold spores as far as I know

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Thank you Afgan King, great thread and info here. I;ve been growing (outdoors) for 30years now, never had a problem with PM until about 6 years ago, and didn't understand the life cycle until recently, you are absolutely right about being systemic Eagle 20 for the win!

I remember reading eagle 20.showed up in tests long after applied. Id be weary of spraying that in flower.
High ph water works
Sulphur and or copper
H202
Baking soda/ potassium bicarbonate
My friend had great success using geranium oil which is the active ingredient in sm90