Please tell me what this is?

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
High CEC compared what....


"Common CEC ranges in New York Sandy soils low in organic matter have a very low CEC (less than 3 cmolc/kg) while heavier clay soils or soils high in organic matter generally have a much higher CEC (greater than 20 cmolc/kg)." From cornell university


Some phd prick from cornell calls it low CEC i will too, so theirs that, cation anion exchange in my mind was an organic media...so thanks for making me refesh and relearn

Because of its positive charged media has more K, P and makes Ca unavalaible. Causing P to competes even more with Ca and Mg so you add more. It should be noted that the K ,and even more so, the Ca is held and mostly unavailable. K is dynamic and will slowly be released and be made available in coco coir as exchangeable potassium, this should nto be confused with amended forms of K in soil based media.
 
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rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
More from cornel since im not going to argue with the guru alone


"Low CEC soils are more likely to develop potassium and magnesium (and other cation) deficiencies, while high CEC soils are less susceptible to LEACHING losses of these cations. So, for sandy soils, a large one-time addition of cations e.g. potassium can lead to large leaching losses (soil isn’t able to hold on to the excess K). More frequent additions of smaller amounts are better. o The lower the CEC, the faster the soil pH will decrease with time. So, sandy soils need to be limed more often than clay soils. o The higher the CEC, the larger the quantity of lime that must be added to increase the soil pH; sandy soils need less lime than clay soils to increase the pH to desired levels."
Cornel


From yournown source

"In this case as the concentration of Potassium increases, the availability of both Calcium and Magnesium decreases. It is more commonly known as locking out. When combined with the effects of pH and temperature, precipitation of these salts can occur. The effect works the other way when Calcium increases, potassium availability decreases. Additionally, Potassium has the ability to almost move at will throughout a plant, it is mostly unregulated; a characteristic all plants have adapted by harnessing these ions to do work as they move around.(whats epxressed here is what naturally happends between C,P,K in any inert media-Rusty)

Consequently, plants that do not have enough of some ions like Calcium (there are several) from under feeding or washing out, will show deficiency in these and other elements while the Potassium builds up in the plant tissue ultimately to express as margin burning on the leaf surface, mostly at the tip."

This happens because P and MG get absorbed together(in any media) and P competes with Ca, all while MG and Ca compete with K. Simple throwing more nutrients at it wont help.

time to correct and balance your feed
 
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rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
I feed them once/twice daily. I am currently using big bloom, tiger bloom, beasty bloomz, terpinator, bloombastic, and I just recently started using cal mag again. (I didn’t think there was a need for it with tap water) Is this too much? I have backed off from 1600-1800 ppm to 900-1100 ppm and I’m very unsure. The peyote critical seemed to like the higher nutes and I am going to start feeding them separate since they are liking different strengths! Is there any way to explain the NPK for easy understanding...like how do I keep the ratios correct with so many different things?? Any help is GREATLY appreciated! I posted pics below.
That a lot of bloom products, ill chekc out them out and get back to you, ill have to go over their formulations, do you feed at a specified bottle rate i.e.
 

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
If you can rinse, leach, lechate that media with pH water and reintroduce a properly made feed for your stage of bloom.


High temps mean more transpiration which means more uptake of water aka feedhis is more then likely the source of your actual problem . Continue with the big bloom and tiger bloom.

If you are not in the last few weeks of flower the ripening/hardening stage of fruit development take that beastie blooms right out, your PPM will drop but you can add it as a boost feed on waterings without feed. Later, up your base by10- 20% to compensate, and try feeding just proper pH water inbetween feedings.


If you are in that rippeing stage Since you have high temps and healthy plants try to feed at a high rate. Day 1 feed with the two base blooms products use other additives normally, and then on the next todays half your base feed rate and boost with beastie blooms half rate. This allows the plant to take up your base feed with the booster feed without competition from minors or that extra P and K. And mimics what you do when using big tank feeds and need to boost additives as you top off.
 
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