Plants with multiple symptoms

Hydro_guy said:

It's ppm 825
EC 1.6

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Hydro_guy said:

Dude your guess is as good as mine lol I've read so many different things about lights. I think my ppfd readings are about 1450 directly under the lights and about 900-1000 on the periphery.

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1212ham said:

Way too much. I'd raise temperature to low-mid 80s, mine is 84.4F at the moment.

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Hydro_guy said:

Dude your guess is as good as mine lol I've read so many different things about lights. I think my ppfd readings are about 1450 directly under the lights and about 900-1000 on the periphery.

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HydroKid239 said:

More light = more food. I’m sure there are articles that can explain how increasing the light will increase demand for the plants to eat more. In this case I believe a deficiency is correct.. but dimming the light would decrease the demand. It’s all about dialing it in with the light and your feeds. A proper VPD is most likely required to achieve greater results with maxing your grow out. I however am not on that level. I’m on the level that would dim the light rather than push the feed because I know my environment isn’t perfect. I’d love to tag along and see where your adjustments take you. I could use all the info I can pick up as well.

More light = more food. I’m sure there are articles that can explain how increasing the light will increase demand for the plants to eat more. In this case I believe a deficiency is correct.. but dimming the light would decrease the demand. It’s all about dialing it in with the light and your feeds. A proper VPD is most likely required to achieve greater results with maxing your grow out. I however am not on that level. I’m on the level that would dim the light rather than push the feed because I know my environment isn’t perfect. I’d love to tag along and see where your adjustments take you. I could use all the info I can pick up as well.

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amneziaHaze said:

yea but no CO2 no teeth to eat soo soo you get fucked with strong light,
but i wonder why is your weed soo lightly colored? is that normal? or is the camera adding a lot of light

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HydroKid239 said:

More light = more food. I’m sure there are articles that can explain how increasing the light will increase demand for the plants to eat more. In this case I believe a deficiency is correct.. but dimming the light would decrease the demand. It’s all about dialing it in with the light and your feeds. A proper VPD is most likely required to achieve greater results with maxing your grow out. I however am not on that level. I’m on the level that would dim the light rather than push the feed because I know my environment isn’t perfect. I’d love to tag along and see where your adjustments take you. I could use all the info I can pick up as well.

More light = more food. I’m sure there are articles that can explain how increasing the light will increase demand for the plants to eat more. In this case I believe a deficiency is correct.. but dimming the light would decrease the demand. It’s all about dialing it in with the light and your feeds. A proper VPD is most likely required to achieve greater results with maxing your grow out. I however am not on that level. I’m on the level that would dim the light rather than push the feed because I know my environment isn’t perfect. I’d love to tag along and see where your adjustments take you. I could use all the info I can pick up as well.

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You cannot just say, "oh yes give the plants X amount of ppm". Because if you give a small plant 700 ppm, it will DIE very very quickly. (Especially on a .5 conversion scale).

Let me try to explain this by example.

Example 1:

We have a Aeroponics setup with a 20 gallon reservoir with 14 female plants that are currently 4 weeks into the vegetative growth stage. How much nutrients should be in the reservoir? Obviously, you don't want to add too much or they will burn to death, and you don't want to add too little or they will be deficient. So we go ahead and start small, and add 200 ppm. After a day you notice that the ppm meter reads 150 ppm in the reservoir. So you add more nutrients (in the recommended proportial ratios as listed on the bottle) and bring it up to 300 ppm. The next day you notice the ppm meter reads 290 ppm, so you add more nutrients and bring the reservoir up to 350 ppm. A few days pass by and you notice NO change on the ppm meter, but the reservoir water level has gone done considerably (soaked up by the plants). Why did the PPMs stay the same once the reservoir was increased to 350 ppm? Good question.

This means that the plants required a target nutrient concentration of 350 ppm so that the nutrient uptake RATE and water uptake RATE of the plants at this particular stage of growth are perfectly balanced. In other words, the plants would consume just enough nutrients, and just enough water keep the current ratio of nutrients to water in the reservoir at 350ppm. This is how you know you are at the right level of nutrients in your reservoir.

Example 2:

We have a Aeroponics setup with a 20 gallon reservoir with 14 female plants that are currently 6 weeks into the flowering growth stage. What should the nutrients be at? The ppms are currently set at 800 PPMs. A day passes by, and you notice that the PPMs have increased to 950 PPMs. You add some distilled water to the reservoir, and bring the PPMs down to 700 PPMs. Another day passes by, and you notice the PPM meter now reads 750 ppms. So you add more distilled water to bring the total reservoir nutrient concentration to 600 PPMs. A few days pass by and you notice the PPM meter still reads 600 PPMs. What does this mean?


Because the PPM level was constantly increasing when the PPMs were at 800, or 700, this implies that the plants were uptaking more water than nutrients. So more water was added to decrease the concentration of nutrients in the reservoir. Once the concentration (when I say concentration, this means the proportion of water to nutrients in the reservoir) was decreased to a target level of 600 PPM, the rate at which the plants were consuming water and the rate at which the plants were consuming nutrients allowed for the 600 PPM concentration to remain constant. This is the correct reservoir concentration for the plants at this growth stage.

As you can see, using this method is very easy, and it is very easy to apply to any strain, any type of EC meter, or hydro setup. It bases everything on the RATE at which the plants are consuming the nutrients, and water.

Any comments? "

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amneziaHaze said:

yea but no CO2 no teeth to eat soo soo you get fucked with strong light,
but i wonder why is your weed soo lightly colored? is that normal? or is the camera adding a lot of light

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HydroKid239 said:

See? Lol I stay so far away from needing co2 that I wasn’t even thinking of that. I’m about to go back to my corner

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amneziaHaze said:

you can raise 50% just by living in the same room as the tent soo dont think you cant control it

i got a post from long time ago that helped me determin best how much nutes she has.
"

hope it helps with determining nutes

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amneziaHaze said:

you can raise 50% just by living in the same room as the tent soo dont think you cant control it

i got a post from long time ago that helped me determin best how much nutes she has.
"

hope it helps with determining nutes

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amneziaHaze said:

there is allsoo a trick with ph but i am too high to remember but how it goes, tells you how she eats or doesnt eat....

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amneziaHaze said:

you can raise 50% just by living in the same room as the tent soo dont think you cant control it

i got a post from long time ago that helped me determin best how much nutes she has.
"

hope it helps with determining nutes

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OSBuds said:

View attachment 5099945

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rkymtnman said:

i have never used peroxide. but it does work well.

i have used both: sterile and good bacteria. for sterile, HTH pool shock and for good bacteria, southern ag garden friendly fungicide. both work great and both are pretty cheap to use.

with the myco, i would use the good bacteria along with it.

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