ODD, new hood = Nitrogen Toxicity?

Trippyness said:

These new genetics?
Might just some oddity happening.
Lay off the top dress until they need it.

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nope same seeds, all Sativa dominate, I think between the changing of the hood, rotating plants 180 degress, stress, and top dress, have all added up to this. I think its wise to (less is best) attitude. plain water for a week or so, see if they shake out of it.

Doomhammer69 said:

nope same seeds, all Sativa dominate, I think between the changing of the hood, rotating plants 180 degress, stress, and top dress, have all added up to this. I think its wise to (less is best) attitude. plain water for a week or so, see if they shake out of it.

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you have a wormbin?
or a source of microbes?
compost pile?

Doomhammer69 said:

nope same seeds, all Sativa dominate, I think between the changing of the hood, rotating plants 180 degress, stress, and top dress, have all added up to this. I think its wise to (less is best) attitude. plain water for a week or so, see if they shake out of it.

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Hood should not of done much if you didnt change the light at all.
If anything you would have seen bleeching or nute burn. Just water for a week.
Question, you using microbes?

greasemonkeymann said:

you have a wormbin?
or a source of microbes?
compost pile?

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No I just amend FFOF with http://downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/ (the Acid Mix and Bio- Live, and I mix in Budswell The Guano Company https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/the-guano-co/ along with MIcroriza, I add some with the transplant at the roots. Thats about it. Then about a week or two before flower I make up some guano and banana tea, I add some of that Acid mix also, its my understanding Potassium is good for flavor and smell. Every thing has been TITS since this morning the only change has been the hood and 5 degree increase, and a top dress a week ago, the direction read, 1 cup for plants established that are 3-5 feet tall. So thats what I did, I have done that before on previous grows, with no problem, although I did go off the fox farm site directions rather than the bag, ... I do let that sit for a month before I start my two week old seedlings in it.
My next grow I plan on ordering some of this http://bosscompost.com/

Doomhammer69 said:

No I just amend FFOF with http://downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/ (the Acid Mix and Bio- Live, and I mix in Budswell The Guano Company https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/the-guano-co/ along with MIcroriza, I add some with the transplant at the roots. Thats about it. Then about a week or two before flower I make up some guano and banana tea, I add some of that Acid mix also, its my understanding Potassium is good for flavor and smell. Every thing has been TITS since this morning the only change has been the hood and 5 degree increase, and a top dress a week ago, the direction read, 1 cup for plants established that are 3-5 feet tall. So thats what I did, I have done that before on previous grows, with no problem, although I did go off the fox farm site directions rather than the bag, ... I do let that sit for a month before I start my two week old seedlings in it.
My next grow I plan on ordering some of this http://bosscompost.com/

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well, that's another can o worms there, but potassium on it's own isn't any more for the taste or smell than any other macro, it's all about the Liebig's law
now sulfur on the other hand...
and honestly if you want to truly unlock the full potential of organics you MUST have a reliable source of fresh microbes.
a lot of your nutrients isn't being available to your plants

greasemonkeymann said:

well, that's another can o worms there, but potassium on it's own isn't any more for the taste or smell than any other macro, it's all about the Liebig's law
now sulfur on the other hand...
and honestly if you want to truly unlock the full potential of organics you MUST have a reliable source of fresh microbes.
a lot of your nutrients isn't being available to your plants

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I thought I was getting Micros from the fox farm and Humus, then when the soil is amended that is what they feed on, then when I make my tea's that just adds the the population? The plants have been doing wonderfully.

alright heading to Boss compost now to get me a 5 gallon bucket for the next grow, Ill be in 4-7 gallon buckets, what is left I will use for tea's Do you think its to late to top dress my week 4 flower garden?

Doomhammer69 said:

I thought I was getting Micros from the fox farm and Humus, then when the soil is amended that is what they feed on, then when I make my tea's that just adds the the population? The plants have been doing wonderfully.

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in a reaaaaal tiny way, yea the microbes are there too, but not even remotely on the same page as a fresh source of compost or castings
like we are talking a couple thousand maybe, vs perhaps billions

Doomhammer69 said:

alright heading to Boss compost now to get me a 5 gallon bucket for the next grow, Ill be in 4-7 gallon buckets, what is left I will use for tea's Do you think its to late to top dress my week 4 flower garden?

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i understand your desire and urge to feed them but oftentimes doing that is counterintuitive.. also didn't you just do that?
the whole premise behind organics is to closely replicate mothernature, meaning the nutrients are already in the soil and already cycled

greasemonkeymann said:

i understand your desire and urge to feed them but oftentimes doing that is counterintuitive.. also didn't you just do that?
the whole premise behind organics is to closely replicate mothernature, meaning the nutrients are already in the soil and already cycled

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Ok, I was able to get 10 gallons for 5 bucks, I will add this to my soil l have cooking right now. This is from the company "
We sell COMPOST, NOT raw manure, NOT raw peat moss. The B.O.S.S. Compost is organic matter that has been eaten-up and digested by Aerobic Bacteria. Once the organic matter has been broken down into this form, the plant roots can then utilize these nutrients.

We start out with the best organic matters like baby poultry bird bedding, horse, steer, and dairy cow manures. These manure bases are then combined with alfalfa, straw, corn husks, ground deciduous/coniferous tree branches, and decayed animal feed.

While composting for over 28 years B.O.S.S. Compost HAS NOT and DOES NOT deal with animal mortalities, industrial oil waste, city sludge, or any other human bio-solids, when making compost. Think of all the things you flush down. We’re NOT about to sell it BACK to you to put on your front lawn. Chemicals meeting chemicals while in the sewage system form new compounds. We’re not convinced that composting can make it safe. Sludge waste and bio-solids will have its place in fertilizing isolated highway median strips, and reclaiming strip-mining land. We make our compost formulas from the highest quality organic materials so that we can meet the Rocky Mountain Organics Council’s compost classification list, and the US Composting Council’s TMECC testing standards.

We compost on our designated and USR#1190 permitted compost site in Weld County, Colorado. At this facility we use a specially engineered compost turner that spins its cutting knives at a rate of 900 RPM’s. This fast rotation of the knives not only shreds the compost, but it also injects fresh oxygen into these windrows to help facilitate the aerobic bacterial action. This healthy micro-life heats up the compost windrows to over 150 degrees F during the weeks of composting. This ‘cooking’ process then destroys harmful pathogens and neutralizes weed seeds. Our compost is NOT 'static pile' cooked. We make sure to keep all material temperatures high: this assures fresh aerobic breakdown of compost while cooking. REMEMBER: This rich, healthy micro-life is the KEY to helping unlock the exchange action between the nutrients and the roots in your soil.

EVERY organic material we formulate and process into our composts has a PURPOSE. It’s not the amount of raw organic matter you put into your soil, but it’s the PURITY and the QUALITY of the finished compost: PLUS the healthy, active MICRO-LIFE that does the soil conditioning and aids with strong plant performance." I hope this is closer to organic. This winter I will look into getting a work farm.

This is what I got Black tea Compost "
BLACK TEA COMPOST
This is our top of the line Class 1 Compost that is rich in water absorbing organic matter, while being low in salts. We also formulate this compost to have a neutral/low PH to help counteract and remediate Colorado’s high alkaline soils. With these natural advantages, this Black Tea Compost helps in with seed germination when used as topdressing. We make this special compost by combining enzyme rich animal feed, baby poultry bird bedding, and high-quality horse bedding that contains flailed wood shavings, alfalfa, and straw. After all these ingredients have been mixed, composted, and cured we end up with premium compost diverse in healthy micro-live.

looking at worm bins now, reading up on how to raise them.

Doomhammer69 said:

looking at worm bins now, reading up on how to raise them.

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can you post a good pic of the compost up close?
you can tell if it's quality or not
sounds like it is, although chicken manure I have no exp with
you may wanna cut it a lil
chicken manure is hot, even composted, it's just the way that it is, being urea based along with the normal guano

Chicken and Horse, they had a dairy compost also , but the guy said to use that on lawns and such, he said for gardens and container plants you want the black tea compost. I added an entire 5 gallon bucket to that blue plastic bin, which had in it 2 bags of FFoF, and the amendments, humus, earth worm castings, Guano,

I dug into the middle of the pile

these are the other amendments I mentioned, also there is a bag of earthworm casting, ( the bad is gone in the trash) and General Organics Alaskan Humus

FFOF is supposed to be roughly 1.1 ec out of the bag, notorious for bad bags. Emailed them and some guy told me EC does not matter for soil so I stopped buying their shit.
Even if you get a good bag at 1.1 ec or whatever it doesnt leave much room for feeding, for instance add a nice strong 1.5 EC feed irigation to 1.1 EC soil and you will be in damaging range for salts.. Soil EC can get out of wack quick that way. I got one bag of FFOF that maxed out my EC meter...

You should do some slurry EC tests on your soil and see what you got before adding anything at least. And deffo check it before you plant.

tonygreen said:

FFOF is supposed to be roughly 1.1 ec out of the bag, notorious for bad bags. Emailed them and some guy told me EC does not matter for soil so I stopped buying their shit.
Even if you get a good bag at 1.1 ec or whatever it doesnt leave much room for feeding, for instance add a nice strong 1.5 EC feed irigation to 1.1 EC soil and you will be in damaging range for salts.. Soil EC can get out of wack quick that way. I got one bag of FFOF that maxed out my EC meter...

You should do some slurry EC tests on your soil and see what you got before adding anything at least. And deffo check it before you plant.

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Thanks for heads up, I have never checked EC, I some kind of noob lol, For years always grew with FFOF and their three nutrients line , last year I started using Down to earth products with great results. This grow, every thing up to week four flower was beautiful, my Soil ph meter is reading 6.5 still which is good. I just took some picks of the fall out of what has started the other day. This is only ;happening on one plant as of now, however all 4 have the dark green leaves and the little claw going on,

Im positive I just over feed with top dressing, Just watered for the first time since the first sightings of dark green leaves and clawing. all water to runoff. Going to ride it out.

I came across a site , and I hope its not Root aphids, I have never seen so much as a gnat in my room let alone anything other than a spider here and there, Going to look closely tomorrow.

looks like mites to me, i like to alternate pyrethin and spinosad, about 5 days apart, 3 sprayings of each.

Roger A. Shrubber said:

looks like mites to me, i like to alternate pyrethin and spinosad, about 5 days apart, 3 sprayings of each.

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This morining I have went over all the plants with a fine tooth comb ( magnifying glass) and I m not seeing anything.

then what ate your plants?...nothing?......get the stuff and spray