Need Ideas/Help on Building Ultimate Grow Labs

I am currently in the process of building out my ultimate grow space.

What I have - a 70foot x 16foot warehouse space with 12 foot high ceilings. There are currently 2 overhead skylights. a 100AMP 3 phase Delta power supply. There is also a 1500sqft storage area in the back. I also have access to any and all equipment. 120 pieces of 2x4x12 and 40 4x12x1/2" drywall sheets and all other construction supplies which I already have waiting at warehouse for build monday.

My plan has been to run 2 flower rooms at 12w x 16L x 12h. Also a veg room at 12w x 12L x 12h.

I plan on running 6 1000w over 3- 4x8 trays per room. I want large plants so I wanted 4-8 plants per light.

I also want to run it through a powerbox/flipbox so I only need 6 ballasts for 12 lights - 6 per flower room that flip. We are going to be putting in 240v outlets for the powerbox.

My question is how do I run all the hood cords out of the room to the ballasts and powerbox? Ive included the plans and a photo. We had to build this wall to seperate two spaces first. Is there a way to put longer cords on the hoods? I'm thinking i'd need 20ft if not a bit longer cord on the hoods to be able to reach the ballasts.

Also do you think the skylights would be adequete to vent. We plan on getting an AC soon, but for the time being just air cool our hoods.

Would anyone recommend the CAP lightcontrollers over a powerbox?
We just built the 70ft wall, and now next step is to build the seperate rooms. Any advice or help would be encouraged and appreciated.

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Do you have regular sheetrock or greenboard? I would go with greenboard, it resists mold and moisture much better...........good luck on the build....

Yes you can make the cords longer, i believe certain ballast manufactures will tell you the length that the ballast can power. You may need to upsize cords if you go too far due to voltage drop. Are you getting permits for this? If so it may (or may not) be ness to have a licensed electrician do all of this......
Yes the skylights should be enough, however the fan size may be tough to figure out. And i don't see a skylight for veg?
May be cheaper and easier to put a second set of ballasts (the veg ballasts) between the next 2 doors, will have to run 240 over there, but then you won't have to make those cords longer too, well probably not.
If you want to do this yourself i believe you can do most of it from the top access box on the Radiant hoods, but i really cant remember, could have just been the ground under there and you have to get into the mogul......
Looks amazing though, i am very jealous. Could i just use the storage area? lol Good luck.

can i ask.. why do you need this many PLANTS O.O.. thats just insane.

Have similar setup. I used flipboxes in the past. There all in the garbage now. I buy 1000w new ballasts for $120 each. Includes 25ft cords. and 10ft supply cord. I highly recommend u pick up 2 dual mode timers from Home depot. They have connections
for NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) And has digital timer built in for $65 ! Wire 3 ballasts from each room to Timer1 NC connection. Do the same for Timer2. Then the other 3 ballasts from each room to the NO connection. Set your timer
and when timer turns on one room the other turns off. Simple and very reliable !

the veg are going to run on their own seperate ballasts since their timing is different and can't use the flipboxes.

icyblaze...
48 plants insane? its medical grow for numerous patients.
??

so powerboxes aren't that reliable?

and i got regular drywall sheetrock. i realize its susceptible to mold so were going to paint it with mold resistant paint just to be safe.

damn you must make some good money sellin the doppe. boi.

maxed said:

and i got regular drywall sheetrock. i realize its susceptible to mold so were going to paint it with mold resistant paint just to be safe.

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There are a few brands of primer made specifically for new sheetrock. The shit rocks! Really gets a good initial bond and seal....

a few changes.

we made 3rooms at 16x18 and one dry room at 8x12. we had extra space so we figured what the hell.

So we got all the framing up. and halve the drywall yesterday. the electrician went in yesterday and attached all new 30A plugs/breakers/wiring to make each room independent. and juiced by a 30A and 2-20A breakers.

were going to insulate the walls today before we slap on last pieces of drywall so we can keep room temps even.

Now before the HVAC comes in I had a last question...

if i'm running co2 and have an exhaust, do i need an intake fan to bring in fresh air? or should I keep it completely CGE.

we dont have an AC unit yet, but hopefully have it put up and running within a month or so.

Co2 will be wasted if you are exhausting it without a controller made for that. What about sealing the rooms and venting the hoods, is that feasible?

Gotta agree w/Trueno. Exhausting CO2 enriched air is a waste. Sealed room is the way to go, it gives you much more precise control of the environment.
I question if 100 amps will be enough for this operation. 6x1000W lamps will use about 60 amps. When you add fans, pumps and AC units, you will easily exceed 100 amps. I don't know enough about electric service to know if running at 240 volt will make a difference. Maybe so.
Good luck,
Fred

a 100amp 3 phase should run 6kw no problem especially in 240v plenty of overhead.

As for co2, a room that size its not feasible to do anything but a sealed room with a burner unless you feel like getting tanks out the ass every few days. Also you're going to need an ac unit separate from the warehouse's unless the entire building is yours (if it is thats some weird fuckin dimensions for a full warehouse)

Also with as much space as you have id go more ape shit and probably go about 15kw or higher and upgrade your electrical to match. You could easily cram 20kw in there with room to spare assuming you aren't bound by plant number limits.

running at 240v does make a difference my 1000w pulls 9.8 amps at 120v and under the 240v it only pull 4.8.

so when you say sealed room and exhaust the hoods.... how would that be sealed? wouldnt i be exhausting my hoods?

i do have a hole above each room where there is a skylight, would i just vent through there.

but i would need to brind in fresh air correct?

and were running 2 flower rooms with 6k and one veg room with 4k.

were trying to master our plants, not grow as much as possible, less quality.

battery on comp is dying so i'll post todays progress later.

any hvac suggestions would be great.

thanks.

maxed said:

so when you say sealed room and exhaust the hoods.... how would that be sealed? wouldnt i be exhausting my hoods?

i do have a hole above each room where there is a skylight, would i just vent through there.

but i would need to brind in fresh air correct?

and were running 2 flower rooms with 6k and one veg room with 4k.

were trying to master our plants, not grow as much as possible, less quality.

battery on comp is dying so i'll post todays progress later.

any hvac suggestions would be great.

thanks.

Click to expand...

The room would be sealed completely, with the exception of an intake (which would be covered by your cool tube ducting), and an exhaust (where your cooltube exhaust leads to. You won't be exhausting air from your room, you draw in air that goes only into your cool tubes and then out the other side.

maxed said:

so when you say sealed room and exhaust the hoods.... how would that be sealed? wouldnt i be exhausting my hoods?

i do have a hole above each room where there is a skylight, would i just vent through there.

but i would need to brind in fresh air correct?

and were running 2 flower rooms with 6k and one veg room with 4k.

were trying to master our plants, not grow as much as possible, less quality.

battery on comp is dying so i'll post todays progress later.

any hvac suggestions would be great.

thanks.

Click to expand...

are you sure you have the expeirance to grow 48 plants and carry out a grow like this? some of your questions make it seem like this is your first grow???

I don't know the dimensions on those skylights but,,,,

I'd be sealing them and securing them. Seen too many nuts breaking in that way.

I see some other issues that are gonna twist yer brainpan all around and,

a. cause you to lose massive amounts of sleep
b. cause you to rip yer hair out
c. cause the money man to pull the purse strings shut

Yep, you have some chalkboarding to do before you get to far ahead of yerself.

I'm gonna sub this one.

bb57

maxed said:

I am currently in the process of building out my ultimate grow space.

What I have - a 70foot x 16foot warehouse space with 12 foot high ceilings. There are currently 2 overhead skylights. a 100AMP 3 phase Delta power supply. There is also a 1500sqft storage area in the back. I also have access to any and all equipment. 120 pieces of 2x4x12 and 40 4x12x1/2" drywall sheets and all other construction supplies which I already have waiting at warehouse for build monday.

My plan has been to run 2 flower rooms at 12w x 16L x 12h. Also a veg room at 12w x 12L x 12h.

I plan on running 6 1000w over 3- 4x8 trays per room. I want large plants so I wanted 4-8 plants per light.

I also want to run it through a powerbox/flipbox so I only need 6 ballasts for 12 lights - 6 per flower room that flip. We are going to be putting in 240v outlets for the powerbox.

My question is how do I run all the hood cords out of the room to the ballasts and powerbox? Ive included the plans and a photo. We had to build this wall to seperate two spaces first. Is there a way to put longer cords on the hoods? I'm thinking i'd need 20ft if not a bit longer cord on the hoods to be able to reach the ballasts.

Also do you think the skylights would be adequete to vent. We plan on getting an AC soon, but for the time being just air cool our hoods.

Would anyone recommend the CAP lightcontrollers over a powerbox?
We just built the 70ft wall, and now next step is to build the seperate rooms. Any advice or help would be encouraged and appreciated.
View attachment 1566725View attachment 1566726

Click to expand...

I'd say no on the C.A.P. controller, my friend owns a hydro store and C.A.P. products get repaired not replaced and you have to pay for shipping to send it back.

ive come down with flu so havent updated. will do tomorrow sometime.

we've gotten everything pretty much set. were just waiting on the electrician before we seal off our final wall and mud/tape the damn thing. then its flat white paint, trays, and hang the lights.

were going to run 2 HVAC from the back outside for intake/outtake air. we ordered 3 Kwikool AC units.


a. cause you to lose massive amounts of sleep -- haven't lost any yet
b. cause you to rip yer hair out -- already have too much anyhow
c. cause the money man to pull the purse strings shut -- i know when i can close my wallet, and were not there yet or even close.