NEED HELP CHOOSING A LIGHT

nc208

Well-Known Member
Get what you're saying here, but still don't understand how people are like, "$1000 LED? Or $200 HPS? Well, the HPS is $20 a month more in electricity, so let me drop $1000 on a light instead..."

That's a loooooooot of months worth of getting great buds with hps....if you can deal with the heat HID still wins in my book.
Just my 2 cents.
400w of HPS or 400w of LEDs? Which will give you a bigger yield? Forget the electricity savings unless your a big player. For example each room at my work uses 288 1000w de. 25 flower rooms, which is roughly 7,200,000 watts or 7200Kw being used per hour. This is when your 30% savings in electricity pays for the increased purchase of lights in 6 months. 400w of LED will crush the HPS, same with 1000w of led will crush 1000w HPS. Ill take the increased harvests as paying back the higher cost.
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
400w of HPS or 400w of LEDs? Which will give you a bigger yield? Forget the electricity savings unless your a big player. For example each room at my work uses 288 1000w de. 25 flower rooms, which is roughly 7,200,000 watts or 7200Kw being used per hour. This is when your 30% savings in electricity pays for the increased purchase of lights in 6 months. 400w of LED will crush the HPS, same with 1000w of led will crush 1000w HPS. Ill take the increased harvests as paying back the higher cost.
I completely agree with you. IF you're a commercial grower with 7.2mil watts running. LED makes sense.
I'm more referring to the few here who claim LED is the NEW YEET/HPS IS DEAD, all while watching them harvest 3 ounces per plant from their $1000+ light @ 600 watts...
 

chiefbootknocker

Well-Known Member
Im confused... cant u just spread the 700w over the 3 lights... running them each more efficiently therefor generating less heat.... If i need heat i pop a V2 off the driver.. and just a string of 2 instead iof 3 off the same wattage... generates a few degress in the tent if i need to add heat for the VPD if i dont want to run the dehu


The 700 is over 3 lights. Room was running 86 with that much wattage. That's too hot. I don't know what V2 or VPD is so I'm not completely following you, but one thing is for sure efficiency means jack shit to me. Light means everything. If whatever light is in the tent does not produce I could care less what it pulls in order to be efficient. I would rather my electric bill be $30 higher from running whatever light and pull 2 Lb than have 200g of whispy buds that I harvested but did so super efficiently.


EDIT: I guess the best way I can put where I'm coming from is that I like to get the max grams I can from the space I have to work with. I suppose if all you know is LED then I suspect you think you are doing good with what you have, but if you have a 4x4 and pull what I have said that I can get under HPS please let me know that light and I will jump right on board, but it can't be a light over $250 or else I'm not into it.
 
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Datcoldboi

Well-Known Member
I'd check out Timber too. I'm sure there's a discount code out there somewhere. I don't have any Timber lights, but they're nice. I have all HLG for LED's.
Do you know if that timber model has UV & IR in its spectrum?
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
"1 watt of electricity produces 3.412 British Thermal Unit (BTU) of heat per hour regardless of light type incandescent, HPS, CDL, LED, fluorescent, induction, etc. Therefore, a 1,000W HPS grow light (1,060W with ballast loss) generates 3,617 BTU per hour heat"

The hps will output heat just like an LED. LEDs heat mostly goes out of the back of the LEDs and lacks infrared heat so there's that. Also If you use a cooltube on HPS you are getting less light because the glass acts like a screen and I think you lose about 30% going off the top of my head

1000w of led will be the same heat output as 1000w of HPS. The difference is the efficiency of the light especially over time.

Hps requires bulb changes so take that into account when comparing. High quality LEDs will last a long time and will most likely need a driver change before a board goes bad
Thanks for the info... ill still try and come back after my test ina week or so cuz im convinced i was drawing more ppfd per watt w my last LED build over my HPS...
and i still think the real advantage is in tertiary costs and flexability... like i said im new to this but it seems to me theres not much research on high quality nugs.. craft nugs.. theres a lot of info on how to grow commercially... bugbee et all.. 15000ppfd balls to the walls... but in terms of craft nugs.. its like the last study was done in 1986 ... thats a year before i was born lol.. Maybe 1500ppfd will produce the higest quality nugs IDK... but it seems to me thatd be Budweiser nugs and we are searching for the Alchemist...
Im really not sure about how to do this to produce the best quality nugs or where the research is going to go so i want some plasticity built in here... it seems to me the highest quality nugs have come from the tropics and the hindu kush
(moutains).. so im trying to build a room that can replicate those conditions and light specturms and go from there. Im calling it Bahamastan.. It just seemed a lot harder w the HPS..
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
I completely agree with you. IF you're a commercial grower with 7.2mil watts running. LED makes sense.
I'm more referring to the few here who claim LED is the NEW YEET/HPS IS DEAD, all while watching them harvest 3 ounces per plant from their $1000+ light @ 600 watts...
u can make a excellent LED and push 650 watts for under $500 very easily... 4-6 HLG96V2s on 2 320 drivers boom. it was my first grow and i blew it w the ppfd before i got my meter... way too low for the first month... still pushed out over a pound... I wouldnt base my purchasing decisions on the worste common denominator... Take the average or look to people who know what their doing..
So u say a $1000 LED will produce 3 ounces... but its really a $500 LED will produce 20 ounces (evn when u blow it
)...
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
u can make a excellent LED and push 650 watts for under $500 very easily... 4-6 HLG96V2s on 2 320 drivers boom. it was my first grow and i blew it w the ppfd before i got my meter... way too low for the first month... still pushed out over a pound... I wouldnt base my purchasing decisions on the worste common denominator... Take the average or look to people who know what their doing..
So u say a $1000 LED will produce 3 ounces... but its really a $500 LED will produce 20 ounces (evn when u blow it
)...
So,
A $500/600W LED produced 600 grams....sounds a lot like a what a $150/600W HPS will do...
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
don't forget to add in cost of bulb changes, when you do that they are actually a lot closer in price and more considerable
Very true, but quick question. Has anyone checked with HLG or Timber about how much it is for them to replace a strip or a Cob in 3 years when one blows out and the technology is "old" and no one is making those generation of strips or Cobs anymore?

Not everyone here knows how to read a wiring schematic...
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
So,
A $500/600W LED produced 600 grams....sounds a lot like a what a $150/600W HPS will do...
Dude.. the light drives everything... it is the most important thing.. u want to drop mroe on the tent than the light? im n iot trying to be rude but thats bad advice
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
It is nice being able to dim my LEDS to save power as well, which is another benefit; saving power
I think they will last at least 5-10 years before anything breaks hopefully. I run them at 80% or so of the maximum power
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
Dude.. the light drives everything... it is the most important thing.. u want to drop mroe on the tent than the light? im n iot trying to be rude but thats bad advice
Run whatever you like. It's everyone's personal opinion.
But please, don't buy into the consumer bullshit of... "it's better because it costs more"....
That doesn't make anything "better" just more expensive.
 

Flatrate

Well-Known Member
Very true, but quick question. Has anyone checked with HLG or Timber about how much it is for them to replace a strip or a Cob in 3 years when one blows out and the technology is "old" and no one is making those generation of strips or Cobs anymore?

Not everyone here knows how to read a wiring schematic...
I got Timbers and just copied this from their site, I guess I am covered.

Q: What is your warranty?

A:
We offer a (3) three year warranty on all components. Additionally, the power supplies we use in all of our products come with a (7) seven year manufacturer warranty. Bridgelux warrants their VERO29 COBs for 10 years as well.



@RainDan please correct me if I am wrong.
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
I got Timbers and just copied this from their site, I guess I am covered.

Q: What is your warranty?

A:
We offer a (3) three year warranty on all components. Additionally, the power supplies we use in all of our products come with a (7) seven year manufacturer warranty. Bridgelux warrants their VERO29 COBs for 10 years as well.



@RainDan please correct me if I am wrong.
Nice.
That's definitely a company I'd stand behind.

Edit.... does make me wonder what the warranty cards from Alibaba look like though... ;)
 

nc208

Well-Known Member
I got Timbers and just copied this from their site, I guess I am covered.

Q: What is your warranty?

A:
We offer a (3) three year warranty on all components. Additionally, the power supplies we use in all of our products come with a (7) seven year manufacturer warranty. Bridgelux warrants their VERO29 COBs for 10 years as well.



@RainDan please correct me if I am wrong.
The driver warranty is confusing, meanwell only supports the company who purchased the driver as I found out during some questions about a driver I got off Alibaba. Since Alibaba wasn't a vendor of theirs they don't warranty their stuff and you have to deal with the seller who has the ability to do a warranty claim. So you just have to hope whichever seller you use is still around in years to come to help you. I'm not sure if this is the same case with HLG and Timber so it is a bit better to pick a company that will still be around in 4-5 years. Which is another reason to use a well built company vs someone unheard of or new.
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
Run whatever you like. It's everyone's personal opinion.
But please, don't buy into the consumer bullshit of... "it's better because it costs more"....
That doesn't make anything "better" just more expensive.
I get it... but its better... All manufactorer specs aside.. thst was my point... spend th extra money... its not just about bulb rplacment either.... or a watt for photon efficiency comparison either.... its the flexability... in the pic below i just flipped them to Veg... its only costing me 135W to hit the 400ppfd im looking for..... its a small canopy.. move the oights in turn them down move them closer.... U cant do this w the HPS... idk what to call it other than tertiary costs....
 

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chiefbootknocker

Well-Known Member
What amazes me is people growing pot worried about electric costs. Let's be real here for a second; You don't grow pot and worry about electric costs. You're trying to replicate the sun for fuck sake.
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
What amazes me is people growing pot worried about electric costs. Let's be real here for a second; You don't grow pot and worry about electric costs. You're trying to replicate the sun for fuck sake.
Ahhh no. just NO.... You want ur pot u like ur pot... cool bro... I do to.... Im also very interested in photobiology.. and building things... Its fun for mee to put thought into how I can get X amount of photons to the plant the best possible way... I like the science and i like trying to implemenet that science... thats like saying " i dont know why when people do things.... some of them try and do it the right way... why are thy doing that?
 
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