MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

Thats a good plan.
Test the nozzles in perfectly still air or you`ll be none the wiser to what pattern they generate
I guess you bought the highest pressure adv`s with an orange pin. Which colour nozzles did you get for testing? 7.5`s (grey) or 5`s (purple).
The 5`s work well in pairs with the other 2 outlets capped off using blind (orange) nozzles but a 4-way could be good in a 3x4 chamber. You`ll probably find the 7.5`s deliver too much mist at 90psi

I don`t know what thread the biocontrols nozzles use but the outlet end of an adv has a ~6mm bore by the looks of it with plenty of wall thickness to handle being tapped with a thread. The other option (more hassle) is to make up an adapter using netafim 3/8 screw bases and JG speedfit stop ends.

Atomizer said:

Thats a good plan.
Test the nozzles in perfectly still air or you`ll be none the wiser to what pattern they generate
I guess you bought the highest pressure adv`s with an orange pin. Which colour nozzles did you get for testing? 7.5`s (grey) or 5`s (purple).
The 5`s work well in pairs with the other 2 outlets capped off using blind (orange) nozzles but a 4-way could be good in a 3x4 chamber. You`ll probably find the 7.5`s deliver too much mist at 90psi

I don`t know what thread the biocontrols nozzles use but the outlet end of an adv has a ~6mm bore by the looks of it with plenty of wall thickness to handle being tapped with a thread. The other option (more hassle) is to make up an adapter using netafim 3/8 screw bases and JG speedfit stop ends.

Click to expand...

Yes I got the orange pin and they only had one choice for the nozzles on the 4 head fogger. It was the 8.1gph nozzle. Im not sure which one that is. I also got the .5 to .6 small blue dgt nozzles. I thought they might fit in the adv's... Do u know if they will fit?

yeah and i wasnt for sure how exactly i was going to fit the biocontrols but i thought with enough playin around i could figure something out. I was actually wanting to run 3 different manifolds with a shut off on all of them so you can run one at a time and have all the nozzle options hooked up at one time. When you wanted to try the netafim turn off the other two and if you wanted to try the biocontrols alone just have that on turned on and so on. Just an idea... It would be alot of tubing running throught the chamber I would think. But it would make it easy to see which on had the best results with running a different on with each crop.

Sounds like you have the 7.5LPH nozzles, they are the same grey colour as the 4-way cross assembly. Did you get a base with them? there`s a pic of a 3/8 screw-in base on page 3 of this thread.
I made an adapter for testing nozzles, its just a length of 15mm pex pipe to connect to the solenoid and a 15mm pushfit "stop-end" to blank off the other end, i drilled and tapped the stop-end to take a 3/8 netafim base. You could tap another for the biocontrols thread.
To see the response from the adv, you`ll need to use a solenoid in the test setup so the flow stops instantly, turning a regular tap off in a few milliseconds isn`t possible. When you do the testing, try replacing the adv with a straight connector to see the difference not having an adv makes
You could run independant nozzle circuits if each had its own solenoid, put a switch in the line from the cycle timer to each solenoid so you can switch off the ones you don`t want running.

I`ve not come across the blue dgt nozzles but its worth testing them to see what they do.

Atomizer said:

Sounds like you have the 7.5LPH nozzles, they are the same grey colour as the 4-way cross assembly. Did you get a base with them? there`s a pic of a 3/8 screw-in base on page 3 of this thread.
I made an adapter for testing nozzles, its just a length of 15mm pex pipe to connect to the solenoid and a 15mm pushfit "stop-end" to blank off the other end, i drilled and tapped the stop-end to take a 3/8 netafim base. You could tap another for the biocontrols thread.
To see the response from the adv, you`ll need to use a solenoid in the test setup so the flow stops instantly, turning a regular tap off in a few milliseconds isn`t possible. When you do the testing, try replacing the adv with a straight connector to see the difference not having an adv makes
You could run independant nozzle circuits if each had its own solenoid, put a switch in the line from the cycle timer to each solenoid so you can switch off the ones you don`t want running.

I`ve not come across the blue dgt nozzles but its worth testing them to see what they do.

Click to expand...

Yeah, i actually was thinkin about installing all the nozzles, each off a different main tube and have a have a shut off on each tube so i could use which ever nozzle i wanted. Might be too much of a mess in the chamber though...

travish413 said:

Yeah, i actually was thinkin about installing all the nozzles, each off a different main tube and have a have a shut off on each tube so i could use which ever nozzle i wanted. Might be too much of a mess in the chamber though...

Click to expand...

I was actually thinkin of doing the solenoid first and then branch off to the different circuits and just have a shut off on each circuit. so i could just use the shut off valves on the ones i didnt want to use. Do you think that would work or should i go with the solenoids?

Valves would work just as good.
You`d be better off running each nozzle type in its own chamber so you can make side by side comparisons over a few weeks. If you hook them all up to one solenoid and run them as a single system it`ll be a more level playing field.

Atomizer said:

Valves would work just as good.
You`d be better off running each nozzle type in its own chamber so you can make side by side comparisons over a few weeks. If you hook them all up to one solenoid and run them as a single system it`ll be a more level playing field.

Click to expand...

yeah, thats what id really like to do but i am kinda limited by space... i am going to run each nozzle type by itself in the same chamber. I will try to keep the variables as exact as i can with each different grow. this way will take alot longer for results but its the only way i can do it.

Half of my Delvan nozzles are here. Half are not. No adapters yet. For twice the price or more I dont think Stephen would have been any quicker though.

hahahaha.

I always appreciate a stephen joke... he spells it steve in his emails too... A man with an identity crisis, in sales no less!

sigh... Well,

I turn on the -mister- tomorrow in my veg chamber, time to coax some roots out of my rockwool. The clonex solution I bought seems to be inhibiting and not promoting root growth. The seedling stage is so slow, its been weeks now since I popped the beans and the plants, under a couple hundred watts of T5, are still are no bigger than three or four inches and only have two or three sets of tiny leaves. Frustrating. Don't know what else to do other than to drop the light cycle down.

Couple of things I wish I had done:

Gone bigger than a 1/4 horse, 2 1/2 gallon compressor.

and Figured out a gravity feed mechanism like I think ATO was talking bout'. I have no idea how to do that elegantly, by expanding off the one solenoid I already have. I was thinking that I could hold the water up by suction, but I would need a one way valve on my nozzle to do that.

Gotta start taking good lab notes too.

The one thing I also wanted to discuss again was how you guys plan on chilling your misting chamber. I decided to invest in a micro chiller to keep a sub reservoir chilled inside my insulated chamber, with the water level a foot and a half below the netcups, and a small pump to keep things moving.

AND I put a humidifier in the room to insure against transpiration stress...

Although I wish I also had the cash to fill up my propane tank.

You two were bickering about efficacy before a week or so ago... Things like CO2, a/c , and watts of light per square foot... Well I intend to go there with these nozzels, in fact, these are the last step for me to complete the process of bringing my room up to 'super enthusiast' levels.

I'm hoping to get my bitches to finish fat and very early with the help of the misters and later more experimentation into different spectrums of leds beyond the 700+ watts of 640 red I run now.

... and What discipline do you teach fatman?

I think you will find that just keeping your compressed air tank and nutrients cool will work initially. This will cool the chamber interiors, the roots and the chamber inner walls as long as the outside is insulated. Figure if your spraying 65 degree F air and water once second per minute, that would likely cool your system down an average of 10 to 15 degrees. So as long as your room temp is below that required for CO2 (75) that will be enough. If your room temp requires CO2 (over 75) then your chamber temperature if using CO2 can be also higher as long as you use netting or something to keep the long roots out of low DO standing water. Root rot is common where there is anerobic bacteria. That means warm water without dissolved oxygen and dying roots (organic matter). So if you have high temps simply keep the roots out of low DO standing water that contains dead organic matter. Matting, and drainage. The rest is up to adequate nutrients balanced with lots of O2 for the roots, adequate water, CO2 and lighting. With the heavy paramters humidity control will likely be needed to keep transpirtion potential high.

With a bit of over spraying allowinfg for waste water to carry away excess heat in the excess water things will likely be eaiser than with drain to waste where the intent is to have no waste so no fluid carried heat removal. I have lots of extra titanium tubing so if it comes down to it I will just put chilled refrigerant lines in my chambers. I h just buy cheap $99 to $199 Sears Kenmore window air conditioners and turn them into chillers. They exhaust all the heat out doors unlike the typical chillers.

I think cool compressed air will have the greatest effect on chamber temps depending how much air is delivered in a second or two. If you can control the room temps you shouldnt need to worry about the chamber temp too much.

Atomizer
How exactly do you dial in your psw for your pump. I have the 340 psw. I know i fill the diaphram tank with air to 2 or 3 psi below what i want it to cut in at. but not sure how I know what the cut in pressure will be once i adjust it from the factory setting...

BTW Im not sure what fitting you are talkin about on page 3 but i think i bought the exact same thing thats in the pic of yours. I bought a dan retofit adapter... I wasnt sure what it was but i didnt figure it would hurt to have on just in case

travish413 said:

Atomizer
How exactly do you dial in your psw for your pump. I have the 340 psw. I know i fill the diaphram tank with air to 2 or 3 psi below what i want it to cut in at. but not sure how I know what the cut in pressure will be once i adjust it from the factory setting...

Click to expand...

you need to have a pressure gauge in the system. then when you turn on the pump you will be able to adjust the pressure switch by watching the gauge.

a good idea also is to have a bypass valve before the solinoid so that you can release the flow in the system back to the res without having to fire the solinoid to the misters. reason being is when you have to adjust the pressure switch and you have girls in the system the only way to cycle the pump will be by firing the misters with the solenoid and this might take a few pump up-down cycles to get the adjustment where you want it and the whole time youll be drenching the roots.
you might think this doesnt matter cause its only every now and then that youll have to adjust the switch, but i noticed before i added a release line that these drenchings while adjusting the switches could take over a day for the delicate root hairs to recover back to normal.

i would also recomend the release line to purge any air out of the system, as i noticed air trapped in the system can have an effect on the pressure switches setting.

well i got my backup 12vdc pump and replacement solenoid. now alls i need to do is get the pump mounted with the battery and smart charger and i should be ready for a power outage if it should happen.

Hi Travish
I think the Dan is to fit the netafims to an existing Dan installation, there a 1/2" adapter that fits standard pipes too
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Netafim-Fogger-Assembly/productinfo/IR-NFFG/
The bases i use have a conical 3/8 whitworth thread and two "wings" to assist screwing it into a distribution pipe.

The pressure switch will have instructions but generally the large spring moves both cut-in and cut-out pressure, i class it as the "range" adjustment. The small spring usually adjusts only the cut-out pressure.
The factory setting for the cutout point may be above the tanks safe working pressure so its safer (and quicker) to set the pressure switch up without the accumulator initially to get it somewhere in the ballpark.

TF types a lot quicker than me.. congrats on the new pump

Atomizer said:

Hi Travish
I think the Dan is to fit the netafims to an existing Dan installation, there a 1/2" adapter that fits standard pipes too
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Netafim-Fogger-Assembly/productinfo/IR-NFFG/
The bases i use have a conical 3/8 whitworth thread and two "wings" to assist screwing it into a distribution pipe.

The pressure switch will have instructions but generally the large spring moves both cut-in and cut-out pressure, i class it as the "range" adjustment. The small spring usually adjusts only the cut-out pressure.
The factory setting for the cutout point may be above the tanks safe working pressure so its safer (and quicker) to set the pressure switch up without the accumulator initially to get it somewhere in the ballpark.

TF types a lot quicker than me.. congrats on the new pump

Click to expand...

yeah, i also got the 1/2in adapters. i wasnt sure what all i need so i bought everything that looked useful

Must be nice to be that rich
I guess the pressure switch is CXA-S3, the paperwork should have the factory settings listed somewhere. The pdf isn`t much help. http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/CXA_cat.pdf

Your switch instructions should be more comprehensive than mine, all i got was 3 lines of italian/english translation
A: Turn up completely differential nut (1)
B: Adjust range nut (2) to wished cut in pressure (pump start)
C: Turn down differential nut (1) up to wished cut out pressure.

Atomizer said:

Must be nice to be that rich
I guess the pressure switch is CXA-S3, the paperwork should have the factory settings listed somewhere. The pdf isn`t much help. http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/CXA_cat.pdf

Your switch instructions should be more comprehensive than mine, all i got was 3 lines of italian/english translation
A: Turn up completely differential nut (1)
B: Adjust range nut (2) to wished cut in pressure (pump start)
C: Turn down differential nut (1) up to wished cut out pressure.

Click to expand...

I got the cxa-r2... I am a bit confused tho... Isnt the psw that came with the pump serve the same purpose as this dwyer pressure switch? BTW I wish i was rich! lol I just left my wife so i feel like a millionaire I was thinkin that I wouldnt have to use this dwyer switch since the aquatec came with the 340 psw... Can you explain the different ways that i would use each of them. Or are they basically the same. I could just use them on two separate manifolds? I am really confused... sorry