Dude, yea. Its a bit tight in there.haha too much plant in the GH so u gotta take shots outside now? lol keep it up cruz
I hope so. Time to start stacking, I can deal with about another 6 inches or so.At least they're budding and the stretch should be about done.
Man, I'm lovin it. thanks for hangin out.looking very nice cruzer, very nice!!
I second that! or is it third?hell yeah they are!
Ha!i just had a brilliant flash of insight.
i wonder how the SantaCRuzOGkush
would do SCROG'd... lol... scuse me, i think im just a trifl stoned.
Its actually very simple. Just go buy a press fit "t" from the local hardware store, they cost about $5, and hook the res fill(green) and sink RO line(blue) together and then run a line from the open port on the t to the float valve in your res. Then just drain into a drain or where ever you want and hook up the supply line. Turn on the water and let it fill your res. Check ppms of the water to verify operation. Hope this helps.Thanks bud, Yea, I need to do more training today. I wish I could just take off all the top panels and let them go.
This R/o has got me stiumped though. looks like the line comes from a water supply through a sediment filter then through a valve, then the ro membraine then to the storage tank, when you open the faucet the wayer comes back out of the storage tank, through the charcoal filter then to the faucet. Seems like the system needs the storage tank to work.
If I am right how the hell am I gonna hook this to a res.
Yup, I hear ya man. I read the metal tank is preasurised 6 to 8 lbs. The way I got it figured is it needs presure to push water up and get an even flow out of the faucet. I dont need that, I just want it to drip into a res through a float valve.Working on the same thing my self cruzer. I already have mine setup and i just now want to switch it over to how your thinking bigger RO tank then the one we got with the system. Only problem i am seeing is the pressure on mine goes way down when i try to just shutoff the tank and go from the Intake water line to the RO faucet. My conclusions and i fucking hope i am wrong but its only going to work good with the metal tank that came with the system and how ever much that holds is going to be your max you can get at one time before the metal tank can fill back up. Then you can just empty it into your bigger Self made RO tank with Float valve, still not sure how that would work out the shutting off of the New tank filling so the Metal tank could fill back up all is manual work in my head lmao and that's not helping really just a headache.
Cant wait to hear your ideas on it cruzer after you have been able to work with it.
Thanks murfy, Yea That is what I had in mind, well just crimping the green line. Almost the same deal. but I think that valve needs some back presure to close the intake. No, it doesn't make a lot of water, just a couple gallons a day. I use about 15 gallons a week in the cab grow. My water supply is here at the green house. I plan on installing the r/o here at the GH and run a line to the cabs, (about 200 feet) If it makes enough I will try adding a second res here at the GH to go hydro for winter and spring harvests.without looking at the manual-
View attachment 1098069
the valve has to be a check valve of some sort to eliminate siphoning?
eliminate the tee, and the tank. use an elbow at that joint instead. still pressurized but without the reserve. uninstall the sillcock from the end and put a float at the end.
these don't produce much water do they? the small tank is the same as an r/o res. so if your demand is more than what is readily available from the unit you're covered.
i can't remember if you run an r/o res or just one for nutes, but one would seemlike a good idea. just change the tanks. where the tank is on the unit now, just change it to a larger sealed vessel. like those six gallon buckets with the screw on gasketed lids.
bulkhead fittings would be a good idea for putting nipples on a bucket. they make them threaded or slip on.
View attachment 1098168
THATS what I was looking for!Its actually very simple. Just go buy a press fit "t" from the local hardware store, they cost about $5, and hook the res fill(green) and sink RO line(blue) together and then run a line from the open port on the t to the float valve in your res. Then just drain into a drain or where ever you want and hook up the supply line. Turn on the water and let it fill your res. Check ppms of the water to verify operation. Hope this helps.
Thanks bud, Yea, I need to do more training today. I wish I could just take off all the top panels and let them go.
This R/o has got me stiumped though. looks like the line comes from a water supply through a sediment filter then through a valve, then the ro membraine then to the storage tank, when you open the faucet the wayer comes back out of the storage tank, through the charcoal filter then to the faucet. Seems like the system needs the storage tank to work.
If I am right how the hell am I gonna hook this to a res.
I went through all the same shit when I put mine in(I use the same sink version). To put it simply, there are basically 2 ro lines. The tank line that fills when water isnt being used, and the ro line that drains ro water from the tank and when the tank is empty it dribbles water strait from the filter. You can just cap off the tank line, but its hard to find caps. Its a lot easier to just "T" it in with the main ro line. You should have a ppm of 5-30, so make sure you check when its all setup. An make sure you dont have the drain line hooked into your ro line(thats what I accidentally did when I first hooked mine up. That must be ran to a drain or into your yard or something. And jsut as a heads up, these kind of ro's have a rediculously low flow rate(mine's 10gal a day)so if your trying to fill a 20gal res, expect it to take 2 days.Yup, I hear ya man. I read the metal tank is preasurised 6 to 8 lbs. The way I got it figured is it needs presure to push water up and get an even flow out of the faucet. I dont need that, I just want it to drip into a res through a float valve.
Thanks murfy, Yea That is what I had in mind, well just crimping the green line. Almost the same deal. but I think that valve needs some back presure to close the intake. No, it doesn't make a lot of water, just a couple gallons a day. I use about 15 gallons a week in the cab grow. My water supply is here at the green house. I plan on installing the r/o here at the GH and run a line to the cabs, (about 200 feet) If it makes enough I will try adding a second res here at the GH to go hydro for winter and spring harvests.
THATS what I was looking for!
I had a feeling there was a simple fix. So remove the tank from the picture, and after the tee thats there already, install a second tee connecting green to blue then come off that to a res. I dont understand how it's gonna work. It seems to me I would get a mix of water, 1/2 thats been though the charcoal filter (blue line) and half that hasn't (green line) but I trust your words man. I'll go get one today and try it.
Thanks for the updated info cruz!!Yea thats about right. 1 to 5
The waste water is full of brine and isnt good for anything from what I understand. I wouldnt water my lawn with it but maybe wash a car cause soft water is full of salt. Who knows? I'm just happy I got it run to a drain.
Now I got a float valve in a res to see if when the float closes and the water stops it closes the intake and stops the waste line. I dont want this thing running all the time.