My girl's are dying :(

greenlip

Member
hi everyone this is my 1st time trying to grow anything, i got 8 white rhino cutting's in 2'' rockwool cubes with roots showing from a friend'
I put them into 5'' rockwool cubes then put them in my 2.2m wide by 1.2m deep by 2.4m tall growtent i have been vegging them for 2 week's today. 18 on 6 off with a dual spectrum 600 watt dimmd down to 400 by my ballest my tent temp is 75-85f most of the time its 80f and rh is
40-50% i am very new to all of this so if im making no sence im very sorry :( the problem is my leaves are turning yellow bending up and twisting they had signs of burn when i had the clones but the guy said they will be fine and it did get better till i fed them that is, at 1st i did not have a ph stick only that crap you mix in a tube and shake i also had no ph up or down so i phoned my friend and he said for now just use the ionic grow i gave you as it will drop the ph levels ... well being the tit that i am i gave them 12 ml of ionic grow to lower the ph in my soft tap water
as the days went on the signs of nute burn started to show so i went and got ph up n down and carryd on using the ph tube that you shake and layd off the ionic grow for a week . they started to look better for about 3 days then they started twisting at the leaves and some turnd very dark green and fell off with lots of yellow leaves, so i went out and got a ph stick 2 days ago and it turnd out what i thought was a ph of 5.8 with the color tube method was really 2.5ph !!!! i was feeding them when ever the rock wool was dry or really light about every 3 -4 days , now that i have a ph stick im feeding them at ph5.8 with only 2ml per ltr of ionic grow i have put tinfoil over the top of the rockwool with the dim side facing up as i was told to but my babys are getting worse by the day and i really dont know what to do, they have sign's that look like sumthing has been eating at them but, the tent is allways zipd up and has that mesh wire that keeps the pests out i have checkd all the leaves for critter's and there are none. but they are still getting worse seeing as i have made a good few mistakes allready i thought it would be best to post here where an expert can tell me what to do should i flush them with ph'd water or do i need to buy some kind of nutes to heal them if they do make it they will be going into a wilma big 8 pot drip feed system in 8 18 ltr tubs so please if anyone would be kind enuff as to tell me what i should do i would be so grateful DSCF3060.jpghelp 3.jpghelp1.jpghelp2.jpg
 

MRGreenThum

Active Member
Hey just wondering why you went from 2 in rockwool to 5 in, and you didnt just put them in the hydroton when they where rooted? Looks like your doing a drip system. I woulda never transplanted them from that point, and it seems like from your description the ph is still off and you over fed them bad. I would leach the cubes with some plain phed water, then after they dry out again start on a low fertilizer mix. When are you gonna move them into the hydroton?
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Ok so I am gonna say your on the right track the ph vial is pretty accurate . But you need to keep even moisture often with rockwool... A ec or ppm meater would help tons in hydro. But just going with 5ml per gallon of feed should be ok with weekly leaching of the rockwool with plain h20 . I used to water twice a day with a cycling timer and a pump slowly working my ec from 1.1 to 1.9-2.3 then leaching with humic fulvic and sugars ment for hydro....
Don't panic and look into keeping even temps and even moisture so salts cannot buildup
 

MRGreenThum

Active Member
But just to say I dont run hydro, and I dont know all about it so somebody might come along and say disreegard my answer. Thats fine if they do cause hydro is deffinently not my shit!

Dont forget to pray to motha ganja! That always helps to, I know she dont want to see her babys die, and neither do we here at RIU.
 

Icannabis

Well-Known Member
it's good that you got a ph pen...the little tube was it general hydro ph test kit I've used those as a back up for years?...if it's red it means stop...you need a ppm or ec meter another thing you need...and to saves those poor clones...the rockwool cubes should've had enough nutrient in them to get you into veg with nothing more than water...did you soak the cube before you put the plants in? another thing if you've got roots out the bottom of the big cubes it's veg time put them in the big pots and fire up the system at a ppm of 250-300...but to the cubes if you prepared the cubes like the gordan package said then get water and ph it to 6 and use nothing but water till the plant start to recover and cut the old yellow and dead leaves off there toast...oh and a word of advice don't get crazy with nutrients in the beginning wait till you flower to blast them veg is the easy part...I don't run over 600 ppm the whole time on most grows...I hope this helps dude...good growing
 

greenlip

Member
1st off thank you all sooooo much for helping me :) when i had the clones in 2" rockwool with roots showing outside the bottom and sides, i did ask the guy if i can put them right into hydro but he said no 1 because i dont have the dripline's or what ever they are calld in stock till monday for the wilma kit and 2 he said its best to allways put them into 5'' rockwool for bigger yield the only reason im doing a grow is because i have spina bifida and im not able to stand longer then 30 mins without really bad pain untill i tryd white rhino that is iv been smoking for years and no weed has helpd with my pain then last month a friend gave me sum white rhino saying it had alot of medical goodness init and wow is all i can say its better then any painkiller out there so a month later i started my own dedicated white rhino only tent not knowing how many factors there is to growing weed, and seeing them die after giving over £820 thats $1274.03 for you yanks :) its heart breaking to see them like this as for the 1st ph test kit i used if it was green it ment the ph was at 7 and dark yellow was 5.8 light yellow 5.6 i got it to light yellow then checkd it with my new ph pen and it gave a reading of 2.5 so i went to get a fresh cup of water thinking my ph pen must be faulty and it showd a ph of 7 from the tap so it was working so i think iv fed them 3 times with a ph of around 2 for about a week and like i said im at week 2 today as for soaking the 5'' rockwool first the guy at the shop said that i did not need to just damp it abit but after doing much reading on here i know that was not the right thing to do i should of left them soak for 24 hours in a ph of 5.6 if im right :/ also when you say leach the cubes with some plain phed water does that mean tip ph'd water thru the cube i really am new to this but due to my back problems im not going anywhere so im more then willing to learn ANYTHING anyone has to say i have allready been awake for 2 day's doing nothing but reading , but the more i read the more conconfused i get i have taken pics of every plant one by one from day one so if anyone wants to see the stages of where things started to look bad id be more then happy to put sum pics up as for having roots showing out of the big cubes there is nothing i have been vegging them just in rock wool like the guy at the hydostore told me to and i really thought they would be abit taller then 5'' tallest and shortest just over 2'' sum of them have shrunk alot from when i tryd flushing them in 2.sumthing ph'd water and the cubes are getting this white dust all over them is that normal and again thank you all for helping it means alot to me :)
 

MRGreenThum

Active Member
Ok I understand on why you switched to the 5 in rockwool. But if youwould have had the drip line set up you coulda went straight into that with the 2 in cubes. and leaching is pretty much flushing, just not as hard core! That ph pen will be your best friend, that and a ppm pen/meter.

As far as your white dust, I would google or search RIU for Powder mildew. Hope thats not what your talking about.
 

NiigataOp

Active Member
from what I've gathered. the lighting is not an issue. the new growth looks good. its only the bottom fans. whatever happened, im going to guess nute burn. has all cleared up and your good to go. just keep an eye on things and make sure the that none of the other leaves start turning then you have a problem.
 

NiigataOp

Active Member
i had the same thing happen to me a little while back when I went from 1/2 to full nutes.

if nothing less it gives the plant character.
 

MRGreenThum

Active Member
Here I got this from a post from mogie, I hope this isnt what you have!

Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can seriously damage indoor and outdoor crops. Powdery mildew can rapidly infect crops in both vegetative and flowering stages, coating leaves, stems and buds in fungus.

Powdery mildew typically thrives in cool, damp, shaded and poorly ventilated areas. Airborne spores brought into the grow room land on leaf surfaces and will germinate given favorable conditions. High night humidity levels often trigger the growth of mildew spores. Powdery mildew can attack indoor crops year round.

Powdery mildew is almost impossible to stop in late flowering, so early detection and control is essential. Perpetual harvest, dense scrog/sog systems, and damp basement grows are particularly vulnerable to powdery mildew. Note: strains vary in their susceptibility.

This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options. Please read Bongaloid’s Powdery Mildew FAQ for more information.

Identification, Symptoms and damage:
Early signs of powdery mildew include white powder/fuzzy patches on leaves (usually low in the canopy) and a fuzzy white coating on lower stems. Note: powdery mildew can be wiped off the leaves for a quick visual check.

(photo provided by turtle power) (photo provided by just one blunt)

These fuzzy mycelium patches produce airborne spores that rapidly attack adjacent plants; mildew will eventually coat leaves and entire plants, reducing photosynthesis, plant vigor and bud quality.

Plants on the edge of a garden, in corners and under stress are attacked first; infection usually starts in the lower canopy where conditions are optimal. As infection progresses, mildew will spread to the top of the plants and finally attack the buds.

Infected buds may appear normal; but are internally dusted with white powder (which cannot be removed by drying), and have a stale, musty/moldy smell when dry. Smoking or trimming infected buds can cause sickness and lung infections, and is not recommended. Infected leaves should be discarded. Lower buds are the most susceptible.

Powdery mildew is difficult to 100% eradicate; control requires prevention, early detection, and pro-active measures.

Preventive gardening:
Preventative gardening techniques can be effective in defending against powdery mildew.

Maintain healthy plants. Stressed plants are often attacked first, so it is important to monitor and remove unhealthy plants.

Detection. Inspect corners, edge and lower portions of the garden frequently. Remove infected leaves, or move infected plants out of the main garden.

Dont water plants at night. Reduce or stop watering before the lights have gone out to help evaporate and reduce room humidity (thnx dutchmaster).

Reduce plant density. Spread plants apart to improve air circulation. Don’t place plants directly against walls or into corners, typically areas of poor air circulation. Pull plants 6”-1’ away from walls or reflective surfaces, and blow air to these areas.

Pruning. Remove the lowest leaves as the plants mature and prune the bottom 1/3 of the plant during veg to increase airflow inside the lower canopy. Remove all unnecessary growth. Put an oscillating fan down low to blow through this pruned area.

Foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can sometimes cause excessive nighttime humidity levels. Discontinue if mildew appears.

Harvest early if mildew is a problem.

Here is the link if you wanna check the actual thread it was in.https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/8356-white-powder-kills-leaves.html
 

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
I must of missed how many ppms you're feeding
It looks like you may of been feeding a few to
many ppms and after a while this is the effect.
 

greenlip

Member
1st off this is the nicest forum i have ever been on and most helpfull i can tell there is alot of stoned/high typing going on here as i can feel the love :) at the moment the girls are asleep, as for me this is now day 3 of no sleep as i wont stop researching untill my brain cant take anymore it's kind of a ocd thing i have , does this forum have a pic upload limit as i have taken pic's everyday and dont want to break the rules here , but at the same time i want to show as much as i can and kind of make this a RIU community grow if you get me where anyone' with an idea just tell me and i'll do it im here to learn as for buying more things id like to go the diy rute if its possible due to a violent alcoholic father who leeve's his wife with insane bills, and every penny i get goes to my mother to help her thru her divorce and bills. iv allready had to sell my much loved custom built pc that cost me over £4600 to build for you stateside thats $7163.58 and had to sell it for $1000 due to needing quick cash :( so cash is a little tight at the moment but if need be ill get the cash sum how 1st thing on my list is a ppm meter and im also thinking a sulfur burner due to mildew on the 2 '' rockwool thats inside the 5'' rockwool went very dark green within 24 hours from my research im guessing it was due to the wet rockwool not coverd under light' so i put tinfoil on dull side showing the next day but sum of the cubes are still dark green , as for this powder buildup on my rockwool thank you so much Mrgreenthumb for bringin this to my attention' especially the sickness and lung infection part, i dont really have a good close up shot of the chalk powder like buildup on the rockwool but i will in 1 hours when i wake them up you also noted stale, musty/moldy smell and this i did notice 2 days ago the rock wool was starting to smell like 2 week old dirty water , if it come's to worse would i be able to take cuttings and start from scratch or is this a dumb thing to ask also like to note when i did a flush on rock wool i only did it to one of them in case i was doing sumthing wrong id rather lose one then all 8 and from reading up i did it way wrong i now know that if it holds one galon you use 2 to flush it an so on but i used over a liter to flush one cube :( by the time i finishd flushing it , it lookd like a square tampon all puffd up with water i did shake it off but 2 days later the one i did flush has shrunk and all the leaves have curld in so im guessing that one is a gonna' i have been using a oscillating fan on them since day one as i read it give's good strong stem's my intake fan is 5'' and is sucking in nowhere near as much air as the outake fan does the outake fan is bigger then the intake i read this was the right thing to do also like to note my tent sucks in when the girls are asleep but when they are awake its fine as i can open the bottom flaps , would also like to note when they are alseep my humidity reader shows it goes up to around 75% what is the best humidity for my plants during light on and off as i have been told different readings by a few ppl and really im not sure whats best , my temps when lights are off lowest they go are 45 i think im not really sure i do have a note book where i have write everything down as in times fed times of rh and temps so on im sorry for such long comments but i really cannot stress how importent this crop is to me as i cant even buy a smoke due to giving my mother all the money i make i will upload pics asap and again thank you all that help it means alot to me :) .......... here are sum pics day by day if you need a close up of a plant on a certain day i have them aswell :) day 1.JPGDAY 2.jpgday 3.jpgday 4.jpgday 5.jpgday 6.jpgday 7.jpgday 8.jpgday 9.jpgday 10.jpgday 12.jpgday 14.jpg
 

NiigataOp

Active Member
alright just calm down and relax. everything is going to be alright. thats one of the most beautiful qualities of a plant. If you have a connected green leaf and a root you have life.

everything looks fine and relax. they look healthy. these are cutting and while they are building roots they are feeding off themselves. I read somewhere kinda tested it, and a plant stores two weeks of food in its leaves.
 

greenlip

Member
if they store food in the leaves , then should i just let the yellow dryd one fall off on there own incase it's taking food from them i dont want to pull anything off unless i have 2 :)
 

NiigataOp

Active Member
personal grow and trimming strategies lol if your training for 4 or 6 main buds I like to trim and shape them early at the third or fourth depending on the height of the plant, but many people have there own techniques.
 

NiigataOp

Active Member
but yours hell let them grow out and see how many heavy stems develop and go from there so see what another week does and then see what you think
 

bungholemadness

Active Member
they do store nutes and thats why a good flush between veg./flower and at end really speed up the plants metabolizem and always pull off dead or dying material great place for mildew and soil gnats to attack!
 
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