Strankon
Active Member
So your answer to creating positive pressure is using duct tape?how ghetto is that?, you want to create negative pressure throughout your entire ventilation system. (passive)
Light distance question?
- Thread starter Futurama89
- Start date
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
The same volume of air will be lost from the leaks in the hood if you are pulling or pushing air through it. So yes, ghetto or not, ductape helps to seal your hood...cfms are cfms, pushing or pulling......static pressures are static pressures......axial fans are designed to accomplish these things. Dayton blowers or squirrel cages on the other hand are a bit of a different story......
ismokealotofpot
New Member
hay futurama if I were you I would just take down that light for now and save it for a rainy day. fluorescent lights work wonders for vedging plants plus they wont give off any heat. your plants can touch them and not get burned. i have three footers under some t8s right now and they are looking pretty sexy.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
A breath of common sense. Fuckin aye Pal. Best advice yet......
+ WitchDoctor +
Well-Known Member
This is from Can's website FAQ: How much CFM is lost through a 25ft. Section of ducting?Approximately 3%(Straight hard cast) to 7%(Flex Ducting)[FONT='Courier New', Courier, mono]1% to 4% Additional loss for every 90° Bend[/FONT]
So it's safe to say we were warranted in warning him about all the extra ducting.
This is also from their website: Is it recommended to push or pull through the filter?It is recommended to pull air through the filter, the reason for this is because the filters utilize the most surface area of carbon to clean the air and you use the most of the pre filter to block dirt and debris from entering your carbon pore structure. Another advantage of pulling air through the filter is that your going to have clean air running through your fan instead of air possibly laden with VOCs, dust, and other airborne particles that could stick to the fan blades and create air resistance.
So it's safe to say you're wrong about everything you've said, and despite good advice from someone "10 years in the business" like homeboy over here, you continued to make a fool of yourself while I was at the zoo looking at Arctic polar bears play in the grass.
I'm not asking for an apology or anything lol, just want you to cool your jets on arguing with people about stuff you really don't know about in the first place. You're "assuming" that blowing and sucking are the same thing (I'm really trying to keep this post appropriate here lol) and we are "knowing" that sucking is more efficient, and you're still arguing with us instead of taking the advice....or doing what most people would and just talk to people that don't think you're wrong...
Peace man.
BTW, can I get some fuckin +rep in this bitch? I could still be at the zoo instead of googling dumb shit that I already know haha.
+ WitchDoctor +
Well-Known Member
For the record, if you're running a long series...nothing wrong with throwing a small or low cfm fan somewhere in the middle to help keep the air moving....but that's not what we're talking about here.
Futurama89
Active Member
yeah man but theres nor where near the same amount of lumen output from any t-5 fixture as a 600w mh, and MH produce a differnet/broader light sprectrum then t-5's.
from my research t-5s are boss for like rooting clones or the first 2-3 weeks from seed then switch to some MH but i didnt have enough for a t-5 so i went for the MH light, check out a grow that vegs with a 600wMH or a 1000wMH BEEEEEEFY stalks and big leaves!
Im wondering the benefits of the flexible stuff from the stiff stuff, what i have is commercial grade thick aluminum HVAC tubing, doesnt pulsate or flex when air is being pushed through it, and i also noticed that when using the flexible kind(i have both) that it would collapse or pinch off easily...
I originally had the can fan in the top left corner with flexible ducting running off the hood, and the fan was SUCKING air from the hood then pushing it out the uppper vent port, but i found that at night or while at work the flexible tubing would collapse or pinch off, also its heat retention is ballsack that tubing gets mad mad hot.
im not trying to offend or anything dont need another phillipchritian incident, honestly trying to learn here and not being a douche at all hahahaha
ok guys relax lol being a vortex fan / or what ever it sucks and blows out with same amount of CFM either way so which ever way op wants to run it is his choice many prefer to suck it out so placeing it on other end
as i am not a tent grower but pretty sure there are lower flaps on tent to allow fresh air in and if there isn't i suggest making a few 4" holes on all lower 4 corners with flaps allowing passive air to enter or another route could be placing some sort of Y right after fan to force fresh air in and passive vents will alow it to leave tent without it blowing up like a ballon lol
Thats what i would do cheers
Aslo i find it ridiculious to run a 600 watter what 8" from tops cmon guys your just looking for trouble even with a vented hood
if your plants are new to the power i would slowkly introduce them allow them to learn to transpire from heat etc so placing 600 approx 20" from tops and every few days lowering them till there around 13" is perfect place a hand on tops make sure there not heating up to much
13" will allow other plant to get lighting cheers
as i am not a tent grower but pretty sure there are lower flaps on tent to allow fresh air in and if there isn't i suggest making a few 4" holes on all lower 4 corners with flaps allowing passive air to enter or another route could be placing some sort of Y right after fan to force fresh air in and passive vents will alow it to leave tent without it blowing up like a ballon lol
Thats what i would do cheers
Aslo i find it ridiculious to run a 600 watter what 8" from tops cmon guys your just looking for trouble even with a vented hood
if your plants are new to the power i would slowkly introduce them allow them to learn to transpire from heat etc so placing 600 approx 20" from tops and every few days lowering them till there around 13" is perfect place a hand on tops make sure there not heating up to much
13" will allow other plant to get lighting cheers
+ WitchDoctor +
Well-Known Member
Honestly, you do probably lose a little more air with the flexible ducting, but if you want to be able to raise and lower the reflector, you want to use flexible ducting. But if you want to make the best out of what you're working with and you're concerned about the possible cfm you'd be losing, you can raise your light up higher and keep using the ducting your using, just don't raise or lower your reflector more than 6 inches, lower the table or prop or whatever you use to prop the laundry basket up instead. Then you don't lose cfm from using flexible ducting, or from extending down so far into the tent.
Either way it's not life or death, you're just vegging to take them outdoors right? It's a nice setup either way, but bringing that light up higher will make exhausting it more efficient either way. It's up to you. Good luck!!
I agree, that 8 inches is too close, at least for me. I have never been able to pull that out without burning the top flowers. I can get away with 12 inches for sure, with fans and proper ventilation...but not any closer than that and I've got problems.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
Smoother the interior surface, the better the air flow..air creates friction........
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
Futurama89 dont waste your time on the "Diagram King", just not worth it........
nuglets
New Member
man, read what phillip said to you in the first 2 quotes. then read your response. maybe you didn't mean it to be but all the capital letters and punctuations comes off as very condescending. i thought so and so did the other guy. maybe that wasn't what you meant but it sure looked that way bro. he gave you solid advice that basically the other guy just expanded on. most everyone know that you pull air through a fan. philips response was definitely HARSH bro. don't get me wrong. but quit acting like you weren't being a little bit of a douche with that response. plus bro, i give phillip the benefit of the doubt. do a little research man. he's got 2 threads that outh to be stickies. all he does is help people design rooms with a software program. that's it. just pop in and he'll take the time to draw up a room for you and then help you work it out. then he's got a thread that he just explains how water cooling works to people and tries to work out solutions for people. shit dude, he even get's people discounts on grow equipment from his distributor. he's helped out thousands of people on this forum with no alternative motive. plus he's a really good grower and he know his shit about design, construction, and electricity. just saying bro; maybe you need to look in the mirror before you start acting like you're innocent.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
CanFan recommends pushing the air through the hood. Just the way Futurama has it set up. Heres the link:
http://canfilters.com/faq.html
When Air cooling lights, should you push or pull your airflow?We recommend to push the air through your air cooled lights to avoid overheating your fan and to create a positive air pressure in your ducting and light hoods.Approximately 150 - 200 CFM is required to air cool a 1000W Bulb.
http://canfilters.com/faq.html
When Air cooling lights, should you push or pull your airflow?We recommend to push the air through your air cooled lights to avoid overheating your fan and to create a positive air pressure in your ducting and light hoods.Approximately 150 - 200 CFM is required to air cool a 1000W Bulb.
ismokealotofpot
New Member
OP i think your making a mistake 4 t8 double bulb fixtures with 7000 lumen ski lite bulbes= 56000 lumens at a fraction of the cost.
+ WitchDoctor +
Well-Known Member
Look buddy, I understand some people have a hard time being proved wrong and don't like to let go of it...but since you didn't let go I'll explain to you what "positive pressure" means in your ducting.
When you run a series of reflectors and you use an inline fan to exhaust, you put a fan at the beginning of the series and a fan at the end of the series. That's how you create positive pressure. What sounds like "positive pressure" about putting a fan at the beginning of a series and asking it to push air not only through ALL of the ducting, which happens to bend and take corners which causes you to lose cfm, then have to be pushed and blown ALL AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE REFLECTORS! I'm not upset, just needed to make sure you SEE THAT PART. How the fuck would you create any kind of pressure at all, let alone a positive one, by pushing air around like that. Now, if you pretend you've got some common sense...picture this. You put a fan on the END OF THE SERIES instead, so that instead of pushing air through when the air can't see where it's going, you're PULLING the air through so that it KNOWS where it's going.
I'll make the simplest analogy I can think of after a wake and bake: Pretend you're standing in the middle of a HUGE dark SCARY cave. You have two ways to go. To your left, their is a rope. You can hold on to it as you find your way out of the dark scary cave so that you don't bump in to walls and get lost. Or you can go to the right, with no fucking rope, and bounce around the walls like an idiot for a few hours getting ALL HOT AND SWEATY!
Haha. Back to positive pressure. So now hopefully the practicality of this is setting in for you....so here's what POSITIVE PRESSURE does: Let's say you've got a 6" 424 cfm fan exhausting 3 1000w reflectors in a series across a room. The fan is exhausting from the end of the series. You turn the fan on...but there's no rope there yet. Nobody has traveled the deep dark cave. So you put a smaller fan at the beginning of the series to push a little air through (throw the rope in case you're still not following) so that the bigger fan at the end has something to hold on to and doesn't have to work super hard to GRAB all the air (rope).
Hope this helps. Oh, I'll also paste again the other reason that we do this....because carbon filters work the same way. You can try to push air through them all you want, but the air is tell you to F off lol.
Is it recommended to push or pull through the filter?It is recommended to pull air through the filter, the reason for this is because the filters utilize the most surface area of carbon to clean the air and you use the most of the pre filter to block dirt and debris from entering your carbon pore structure. Another advantage of pulling air through the filter is that your going to have clean air running through your fan instead of air possibly laden with VOC’s, dust, and other airborne particles that could stick to the fan blades and create air resistance.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
Like I said, Canfan themselves say to pull through the filter and then blow through the hood. This accomplished a few things:
Your not pulling hot air from the hood through your fan, keeping it cooler.
Your not creating a negative pressure in your exit ducting/hood, possibly exhausting odor/un scrubbed air when using a filter.
My quote is taken from the same page WD quote is taken from.....I provided a link so you all can read it for yourselves...My advice to Futurama is correct and has been from the start...
WD your analogies are stoner logic at its finest....
Your not pulling hot air from the hood through your fan, keeping it cooler.
Your not creating a negative pressure in your exit ducting/hood, possibly exhausting odor/un scrubbed air when using a filter.
My quote is taken from the same page WD quote is taken from.....I provided a link so you all can read it for yourselves...My advice to Futurama is correct and has been from the start...
WD your analogies are stoner logic at its finest....
fandango
Well-Known Member
Back to the question,
running 1000w,took the glass off my hood,distance is 24" to lead buds,temp at canopy is 30c,closer buds are getting cooked,looks like fan leaves that are curled up and baked dry,really slows down bud development....I just wack em off and smoke em up
running 1000w,took the glass off my hood,distance is 24" to lead buds,temp at canopy is 30c,closer buds are getting cooked,looks like fan leaves that are curled up and baked dry,really slows down bud development....I just wack em off and smoke em up
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
I am not sure why its so hard for you guys to read what Canfan has posted in the FAQ page. You yourselves said see what they say. Guess what, they say the same thing I said in my very first post in this thread. His setup is just fine.............here it is again.
When Air cooling lights, should you push or pull your airflow?We recommend to push the air through your air cooled lights to avoid overheating your fan and to create a positive air pressure in your ducting and light hoods.Approximately 150 - 200 CFM is required to air cool a 1000W Bulb
You know an architect can design a sky scraper. But that does not mean he has the skills to pour the concrete or weld the steel........yes Phillip, this is directed at you......
Sorry Futurama for having to argue in your thread....
When Air cooling lights, should you push or pull your airflow?We recommend to push the air through your air cooled lights to avoid overheating your fan and to create a positive air pressure in your ducting and light hoods.Approximately 150 - 200 CFM is required to air cool a 1000W Bulb
You know an architect can design a sky scraper. But that does not mean he has the skills to pour the concrete or weld the steel........yes Phillip, this is directed at you......
Sorry Futurama for having to argue in your thread....