Light advice - seedlings Mars Hydro TS1000 or...

NewGrassCity said:

Awesome info. I am coming to grips realizing that I will only be able to grow 8 months out of the year.

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CrudeDude said:

If you’re looking for good temp and humidity controllers you could check out inkbirds devices online. If you have any brewery supply stores they will almost always carry them in stock. And they are rated for 1500 watts. A cheap window unit preferably with analog knobs not digital and a dehumidifier from walmart and a vicks humidifier is all you really need honestly to control the grow area. C02 isn’t worth it unless you’re running a closed loop setup etc. Using foam board and 8” ducting you can move the air to a room if the room doesn’t have a window. I’ve built stands for them and cut window units right into the canvas of tents and foil tapped etc. for less than $70 in controls you can automate your room easily. They make humidity controllers as well and you can plug both humidifier and dehumid devices into the same controller and set the set points to your liking etc. aside from checking water levels and adjusting ph I don’t need to be in my room hardly unless I want to be.

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BigStilton said:

Little update and a few questions...

I've transplanted all 3 today into larger garden mate fabric pots with a mixture of soil ( John Innes No.1 compost for young seedlings and plants - Mills DNA Soil + Cork) Majority of the soil being Mills DNA and sprinkled what I had left of Mycorrhizal Fungi.

I'm yet to water the new pots as they were still quite wet/damp...

Q1. I've used Mycorrhizal Fungi so obviously need to feed it Malassis which I have already mixed a table spoon into my watering can (see pics). Should I give them a light water with the mallasis water or will the plants be too shocked due to the transplant? I'm guessing it should be fine but just checking what people think.

Q2. Light distance, does the distance look OK?

Q3. This might be a strange question lol - However I have used this before without any issues and lets face it if it doesn't harm fish it shouldn't harm a plant? Anyway, Bioactive tapsafe plus to remove chlorine from the water quicker? Yeah I normally just leave the water sitting without the lid for a wile to let it evaporate but has anyone cheated to get rid of it quicker like I have?.

Q4. Drooping, Before I transplanted I noticed they seem to be drooping quite a bit I think I may have slightly overwatered them yesterday, unless someone can spot any other tell tale signs?

Q5. Some of the leaves are touching the soil, I know this can cause issues but is it too early to chop them off due to the stress of the transplant?

Cheers for any feedback, Happy Growing

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NewGrassCity said:

1. I would wait to water since pots were damp and you say you over watered before. The drooping is a sign of over watering. Plants also slightly droop just before the lights out period.

2. I would lower the light a little to prevent over stretching. Good rule of thumb is to have about 10-12 inches from light to the top of the canopy.

3. I’ve never used bio active, I just let evaporate and then adjust ph after 24 hours.

5. It’s okay for the leaves to touch soil in my personal experience. They will brown off eventually, then you can chop them off, assuming these are photos. If autos, I don’t chop anything at all to prevent stress and stunted yields.

I’m no expert by any means and am still learning myself. Hope this helps.

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BigStilton said:

The

The original pots were still wet/damp so the new pots / soil are dry so maybe i should lightly water round the sides to entice the roots to search outwards?

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BigStilton said:

Forgot to mention these are absolutely stinking already!! 18/6 light cycle. Any idea why lol? Going to have to get the carbon filter on the go.

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CrudeDude said:

Plants start to smell very early in veg, this is not uncommon at all. As for watering around the edges to entice roots to “search” you’re over thinking it my guy. It’s a weed. It’ll grow in the worst conditions. Over thinking it, you tend to over due it. now for your questions

1. Wait till your mediums dry at least 1-2” down. Your plants are established enough they don’t need to be babysat. Depending on your medium you shouldn’t be watering much at this point. Maybe once a day if that. Especially under a Mars led. Your plants are over watered imo. Drooping is one sign but another is paper thin leaves and leaves curling under not up. But like newgrasscity said, plants droop before lights out too. They sleep. You shouldn’t water in their dark cycle either(if you use pump and timers)

2. If you’re under a Mars ts1000 you need to be no further away than 14” from tops at your stage. As your girls grow you’ll move it closer. You can look up the info on Mars website for your light and use a lux meter to see what you’re at to dial in if you want to get technical or cut a 12” string and tape to light and use that as your gauge.

3. I use fish tank water conditioner all the time as well as ph down for fish tanks in my Rez all the time without issues so I’d say you’re probably good. Monitor the ppm before and after application to see if there’s any major effects you should address.

5. You can get mold from leaves touching soil that’s too wet for too long. Remove any fallen leaves as they will attract bugs that want to eat them and break them down. Especially in soil. Personally I pinch off the first two nodes when my girls reach 6 nodes anyway. (I leave the cotyledons though) Never had an issue. If I’m running a scrog I’ll defoliate like a stripper takes her clothes off and they love it. The plants not the stripper. I’m no expert but I’ve had plenty successful grows so take it for what it is. Any foliage below the 50% line that looks to be struggling or deficient I usually remove. If the branch doesn’t have at least 4 nodal points I remove it. No sense In growing a single branch with one bud site right? Hope that info helps.

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