Let's talk serious SCROG

come on prof... your so close but you went in the (hint) opposite direction on that last post.

It has to due with the loss of turgor pressure and environmental stimulation. Well, at least I am 99% sure it does, really pronounced effect on this grow which may be hard to see in the pictures. IT was like a light bulb went off in my head when I figured it out.

sample nugs for correct explanation. Full on 1/8 if you can cite the actually name of the phenomenon. I'll give you a huge hint. the first 4 letters are thigm

Thigmonasty! The stretch was caused by stress from vibrations? whats vibrating?

OK so I'm an annoying newbie. Forgive me. I have spent so much time on this forum reading through everyone's different opinions and advice, and have finally settled on this thread as it seems you guys know more and are less aggressive with us tender newbies! I was given a few seedlings last spring and threw them in the ground and halfway through the season got hooked! Now I want to do it right, indoors, and am trying to figure out my setup.

I'd love to be able to grow 1 lb at a time (maybe not the first time around, but why not aim high?!). I plan to buy a tent (4x4 or 5x5 - to leave a little room to get around?) and have been looking at possibly a dimmable 1000w hps/mh (otherwise a t5 for veg and 600 hps for flower). From what I understand this is a topic of great debate...but may 1000w be overkill for scrog for my purposes? I don't want to kill myself with electric bills and initial cost of setup, but if it really makes a difference in the outcome I'd rather spend a little extra to do it right the first time. I am also ordering the West Coast Masters' book recommended by someone back earlier in the thread so I'll try not to drive everyone crazy with dumb questions.

I really appreciate any and all advice!!!

The Dawg said:

Prop's On The Cab Brutha!!!My Cab Will Be 3ft Wide Also.What Kind Of Exhaust Fan You Running.Pic's Would Be Great.

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Hi dude, I've not been on this thread for a while so I apologise for the delay in response... I am using an 8" Systemair In-Line Fan, (^ See above)



I also upgraded my 6" Rhino Filter for an 8" Rhino Filter (^ See above)



...And above is my most up-to-date pic of my Royal-Haze, she is about to start her Flush Period.. I am going to do one week (1st week) with just PH Balanced water and CANNA Boost & 1X teaspoon of Cha-Ching... Then the following week it will be just plain PH Balanced water - untill she is chopped

Ps/ Below I've added a LINK to my thread, feel free to drop by and browse my efforts etc..



https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/320402-stelthys-600w-hps-project-new-64.html



I surpassed my 600 Watts of lighting and am now running 730W, I'am running a 'Full-Spectrum' lighting rig including UV-B...l


Hope ya'll like the pic/s - STELTHY

Ding ding ding.. It is thigmotropism or thigmonasty although I think the latter is more often used to describe plants that react quickly to touch ...think Venus fly trap. It makes complete sense as the plants directly in front of the fans are noticeably shorter. I did some digging around and many ..really most..plants respond to touch or wind movement by reducing vertical growth. Researches tend to agree that the movement of the stems causes tiny tears that reduce auxin movement as well as increase thickness of the stem. At any rate, I really think that is what is happening as all the plants are identical in those locations. I'll hook you up after harvest and you can let me know what you think.

Tman.. Welcome to the scrog . I don't think a 1,000 is overkill. The one question I would ask is how much height do you have ? 1k bulbs burn HOT and you need about 18" between plants and light. So if you are growing in a low basement that is going to limit you. Your defiantly going to want a sealed hood, a nice big one that casts a broad and even swath of light. A 4x4 space is the standard pattern that people suggest for a 1k.

The biggest thing you need to sort out is temps and hOw your going to manage them. Both cool in the day and warm at night.

legallyflying Just starting week 5 of my serious scrog.

12 plants, each in 8 gallon DWC, sitting under 3600 watts, CO2 burner and controller.

seriously.

No Light Movers? Your pony rig is bringing heat past each light increasing from one hood to the next... Just curious

Over the course of the years, I have found that the last few lamps in a rig like that tend to burn out more quickly as a result.

Looking good brother!
Woodsmantoker~

Yeah, I imagine that its a little hotter on the end of each run but really its not too bad. I have one of those laser temperature gauges and all the hood temps (the outside of the hood) are all about the same. within a couple tenths of degree. I guess the lamps could burn out quicker, but I get rid of them after 2-3 runs anyways so fuck it

I ditched the light mover and doubled my wattage instead.

Things are bulking up nicely, got allot riding on this crop...like paying my huge power bill.

Thigmotropism, now I must have misunderstood the meaning of it, I thought it meant a negative reaction to vibration (stretch) not a positive reaction and you are right, thigmonasty is when plants like Venus fly traps or other carnivorous flora use pressure changed on they're surface to cause a contraction.

Lookin' great stealthy! thanks for keeping us up to speed on your grow!

Again, to agree with Legally; there's almost no such thing as "overkill" if you can manage your temps the sky is pretty much the limit. I have heard of scientists lab testing "laser growing" its similar to LED only using light frequencies that the plant can use but with thousands of super charged light beams, so far keeping a room under 200 degrees has been the major hurdle but in small, well controlled tests some plants reacted and grew 700% faster than the HID control batch. I'm looking for the article now so I can link it, I think it was in "Scientific American" a few years back but they don't have it on they're site.

Jesus!! Lasers! Awesome. Yeah I got some dank laser hydro for donation. Lol

Stealth. Looking sick as hell dude. I love when the plants look like that (duh). For whatever it's worth, I flush for like 3 days and veteran smokers still say very smooth smoke. There isn't anything to really flush in DWC

Ok, came back today and have flowers popping up everywhere, I'll post pics tomorrow as I got in near their bedtime. Not ready to do this yet but how do you flush a scrog ? The buds through the screen and all. Molasses, are they needed ? Read a n article about the benefits. I'm done tucking, think I'm gonna let em go. Tomorrow is feeding day and need to know if I need to get molasses to go with the FloraNova Bloom... Oh I still can't tell sex but I just did a quick look today will examine closer tomorrow.

Ok thunderbay..were you really stoned when you typed that? Flushing with the buds through the screen? Huh? You flush a scrog jut like any other grow. You take the plants and gently swish them around in the toilet bowl, flushing every couple of minutes. Yes, your standing next to the toilet for a full week but it's worth it.

Ahhhh molassis. The favorite "sweetener" that people add, some without any idea at all what's going on. So here is the deal on molassis. Molassis can NOT be absorbed by the roots of the plant. Period, end of discussion. What molassis can do; and does do quite nicely is jump start the microbes in your medium. You never inoculated your soil? Why not? Then do it now. Microbes can eat and process nutrients in their mineral forms, thus making them available for plant uptake. Molassis and microbes is akin to children and candy, they just go nuts.

Important!!!! If your in hydro, you better have a damn good idea what is going on in your root zone. Molassis will also make bad microbes flourish as well ( and it can turn your rez into a big tote of compost with crazy PH.

Minus one grower point for not sexing your plants prior to flowering. Come on man, females are EASY to spot...they have white legs spread wide for crying out loud.

Excited to see the pictures!!

No, no, no. Guess by your tone you not getting what I'm asking.....I have 4 girls in a 2x4 area with a screen fixed to cabinet. As I understand flushing, you use 3x the amount of your container. Well my girls sit in 4 aluminum pans and don't have nearly the capacity to hold that much water., So no it's not hydro, it's soil.
It's still not the best camera (or photographer) but here are my attempt at porno

Oh yeah those white cups, my clones. I put the plants in the white cup and the white cup in a red, makes it easy to look at the roots w/o disturbing the plant. Nice roots... Since everything is in the same cabinet, clones are on 12/12 too....be damn if this don't seem like it's flowering too.......

I was just being a smart ass. I don't understand about the pans...don't they have a drain to them? Just water them till the water runs out. Then wait a little bit and water again. Then again.

of course your clones are flowering, they are under 12/12 light.

hey legally couldn't the stretch be from heater location... from the pics it looks like a heater is in the upper right hand corner.. or is that a/c? anyway it just got me thinking about the dyi info you posted for crop scheduling. Less cool down time more stretchy strectchy lol

That is the AC. Yeah, it could be from the AC location as the smallest plant is under the AC but there are fans and what not that blow the cold air around pretty quickly.

Actually I believe you have it backwards, the biggere the day/night temperature difference, the greater the stretch is going to be.

i believe from my experience higher night temperatures(into the seventies) reduce the amount of stretch you will have as well jus thought id throw that in...

hey this might be A STUPID ? but the picture that shows how to train the plant is that how u would tie it around the screen or do u lst when there young.just really confused on how to train them around the screen. my screen is 15in from the base of the plant and there 6in high now. trying to read everything rite so i can do half way well this grow.if anyone has any real life pictures of there plants being trained it would help alot. also, if anyone has any good ideas on how to train my plants there in a grow closet 2ft deep 3.5 wide and 5ft high with a 400 hid and co2 dwc nine site tub (have nine plants now but have to cut it down to six cause of maine med laws so six will be in the screen). any help would be great first med grow so i really want to do well so ill be alset.thanks

growpimp said:

hey this might be A STUPID ? but the picture that shows how to train the plant is that how u would tie it around the screen or do u lst when there young.just really confused on how to train them around the screen. my screen is 15in from the base of the plant and there 6in high now. trying to read everything rite so i can do half way well this grow.if anyone has any real life pictures of there plants being trained it would help alot. also, if anyone has any good ideas on how to train my plants there in a grow closet 2ft deep 3.5 wide and 5ft high with a 400 hid and co2 dwc nine site tub (have nine plants now but have to cut it down to six cause of maine med laws so six will be in the screen). any help would be great first med grow so i really want to do well so ill be alset.thanks

Click to expand...

6 plants is alot for your dimensions, if you plan on using scrog thats way too many, 2-3 plants will fill that space nicely.

Topping and lst are a big part of scrog, before your plant even hits the screen you should have anywhere from 10-50 tops, I start topping the plants when they are around 6 inches, I then top again every 3-4 inches (depending on internode spacing) so by the time my plants are 12-16 inches and hit the screen they are splayed out under it with 30-40 tops a piece. he thickest/tallest branches should be maneuvered to the outside and kept lower than the thinner branches, allow the plant to send auxins (growth hormone) to the smaller branches so they can bulk up, if it looks like a skinny branch will stay a skinny branch trim it off. Auxins will go to the tallest branches, this is why we keep the thickest branches lower at the beginning, they will catch up during the stretch. try not to "criss-cross" branches while training, they will put pressure on each other and can cause damage.

I tend to take the tallest branches and lay them horizontally under the screen, only allowing an inch or so to peek out, once the smaller branches have gained some girth lay them under the screen and give the larger branches time to catch up, its a bit of a game we play with the plants, trying to stunt growth in some spots and promote it in others, once you have an even canopy and are starting flower you can gently bend the branches that are growing faster to allow others to fill in the canopy. I often will give a light squeeze to a larger branch to inhibit its growth if its surpassing other branches too quickly. Uniformity is the name of the game, the tallest branch dictates how far your light has to be, in your case a 400w has very little light penetration so even a branch that is a few inches taller than it's neighbor will get that much more light, continue to grow taller and cause lower branches to remain weak and "fluffy".

Based on the size of your space you are going to get crowded quickly. Try only having 5-10 tops per plant, if your screens get over 80% full before flower you will need very intense airflow to avoid moisture issues, I'm actually having that issue right now with 2 plants in 4x4 under a 600w, lower branches were remaining damp because of my full canopy and I think I just barely managed to avoid a serious mold problem (no mold was found but temps and conditions were perfect over this past weekend for it).

speaking of which, here's some pics!

GORGEOUS!!! nice tech + grow + rep excellent!

I would agree. Six is waaaaay to many plants for that space. Six plants fill my 10.5' x 3.2' screen.

It's really not rocket science to train them. Just lst now to get many growing shoots, keeping pulling them back under the screen as they grow through. Flip when 3/4 full. Keep pulling under for a couple more days then let them go.