Let's talk serious SCROG

luv2grow

luv2grow

Well-Known Member
profgrow said:
After a better look at your leaves (hard to see but i get the picture) when I have had leaf burn like that (burnt serrations not just leaf tips) it has been a nutrient issue. I have never had it happen in soil unless I had mild root rot. how wet is your soil when you water? maybe try a higher ph range, soil doesn't mind the low to mid 6's, decomposition in soil can cause alkalinity so if you are giving them water that is in the mid 5's it can drop to the high 4's due to organic matter breaking down. I might even go as far as to flush the system with 6.5 ph and see if you can get the salts out of there. I'm also going to add that less than 400 ppm is like giving plants tap water, they are trying to produce buds and have no place to draw energy from, my water comes out of the tap at about 300 ppm. I have gotten shocked looks from other growers when I tell them that by week 2 of flower my girls are drinking 2k ppm mix, then they come and see my happy, healthy plants and say "dood, I want that shit!". The suggested feeding regimen on most nutrient bottles is less than half of what plants can use to thrive.

These opinions are all "shots in the dark" because I can't literally see your setup but in my experience these are things that may be a factor.

In summation; I hate soil. It's close to impossible to really control your plant's nutrient uptake, every soil compound has different properties and the more I pick over soil grows on these forums the more I see people having nutrient issues and ph problems, I'm not going to bash anyone for growing in soil because I did it for years but as strains become more hybridized they become more sensitive to environment, as an example; I grew a strain once called "original purple haze" (also known as old timers haze) its an older strain with very little crossbreeding in its lineage, I gave it water straight from the tap, no ph and filled with chlorine, it never had any issues, took all its nutes from the soil and finished in about 20 weeks (yes, thats not a typo, 20 weeks almost killed me) its as close to wild as you can get and hearty like an oak tree.
Different strains react differently to the environment, the last 20 years has seen an explosion of 8 week finishes and full 50/50 hybrids, these plants are ideal for seasoned growers because they are designed by seasoned growers. I tend to follow the breeders recommendation whenever available, if they say "this strain likes hydro" it generally means they had issues growing it in soil.[/QUOTE

Yeah the leaves you r seeing are the leaves in question from the pvc screen. Thats the only part of that plant... doesn't look good., which makes me believe its off gassing.. But im right there with you about soil. Its fun for a bit, but not the best route. Im slowly switching into my rdwc system. Just had to get some room to use it. I'll look into the nuets later and see what i can come up with.
Click to expand...
 
profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
thunderbay said:
how much should i trust my moisture meter? that ppm stuff is mostly for hydro etc not soil ?
Click to expand...
I never trust spike-in-soil moisture meters, never had one work well for me.

ppm can be used in hydro or soil, when it comes to soil it just means the ppm of the water you use on it. Lower ppms are fine if you have a rich soil base, they just need to be raised later in flower as the plant will have sucked the soil of all its nutes.
 
thunderbay

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
2 things, I had under the screen pretty much cleaned up but it's looking ruff under there now, donno if it's because of the lights under canvas for my cuttings....maybe. Should I trim under canvas again, read you should only trim once. The next thing, when I transplanted to big pots soil was about an inch from the top, now it's compacted I guess, to 3-4 inches from the top and some roots are showing, should I add soil ? pics
 

Attachments

profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
thunderbay said:
2 things, I had under the screen pretty much cleaned up but it's looking ruff under there now, donno if it's because of the lights under canvas for my cuttings....maybe. Should I trim under canvas again, read you should only trim once. The next thing, when I transplanted to big pots soil was about an inch from the top, now it's compacted I guess, to 3-4 inches from the top and some roots are showing, should I add soil ? pics
Click to expand...
You can add soil or not, won't make too much of a difference in my experience.

As long as those lights are under your canopy the underside will grow and the top's growth will slow.

It's ok to clean out the underbrush multiple times, just give a few days/week between major trimmings. All those fan leaves are doing for you at the moment is pulling nutrient from the tops but don't bother trimming until you get rid of those cfls and seedlings, seedlings need very little light, they can be tucked away in a cabinet or box with only one light source and be just fine.
 
profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
So I broke down and got a big fat 6in 400+ cfm fan the other day. Temps were climbing and now that I'm using my tent to heat my house I wanted more power pushing the air from the hood. I ended up having to use a lot more ducting than I wanted to, at first it was secured to the roof of the tent but it was very loud so i put it on the floor and it quieted down a bit. It's still blowing enough to keep my house toasty and canopy temps are 80 consistently with the 600w only 12 inches above the tops.

Here's a terrible pic of the new fan.



Oh, heres a fun pic of one of the buds from the U shaped scrog I chopped down.

 
SFguy

SFguy

Well-Known Member
i havnt finished this yet, but im contemplating doing a 6x6 scrog with my 1k maybe i cud go bigger cause i have a 6 ft rail?? maybe
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
SFguy said:
i havnt finished this yet, but im contemplating doing a 6x6 scrog with my 1k maybe i cud go bigger cause i have a 6 ft rail?? maybe
Click to expand...
Sounds like a great plan if you want to grow popcorn. No substitute for wattage my friend. There is only so much a mover can do. 36 watts/sq ft ? I would never advise that. 50/sq is the standard. Perhaps 40 with a mover. Really depends on your hood but a 6' light spread? Huh?
 
S

SammyBerne

Member
profgrow said:
Oh, heres a fun pic of one of the buds from the U shaped scrog I chopped down.

Click to expand...

U shaped buds from a u shaped scrog.... love it

Just read all 51 pages of this thread, great info. Can't wait to start my own scrog.

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to share your experiences.
 
profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
Maybe I'm wrong on this but for me it seems marijuana growers should be a team, a bit of competition is ok but we need to work together to benefit the community. I owe the better portion of my knowledge to the growers on these forums, when I have a question theres always someone in our community with an answer. I know its cheesy but "knowledge is power" and the more knowledge we share the more powerful we become.
 
SFguy

SFguy

Well-Known Member
HEY FLYIN THANKS FOR THE INPUT, IM NOT GROWIN POPCORN... JUST EATIN IT BUT ANYWAYS HAVE YOU USED A MOVER BEFORE? IM GROWIN A 6X6 area with 25 plants with the mover right now, and commin out with buds like above... my canopy is about 24 inches deep and my 1 k is like 10-15 inches away from the tops with no burning cause the mover.. im at work right now but ill try to get some pics of day 23 12/12 tonight
 
luv2grow

luv2grow

Well-Known Member
Movers do work wonders. I luv mine. I think he was talking about a 6ft square isn't ideal... only he knows but if you read the thread he's right on with good info. And better yet you don't have to take the advice lol. Its your choice. Welcome to the thread... we all have our styles. I know personally a 6 ft square for me would be a pain in the ass to train and maintain. Just getting around a two ft wide by 6 ft long screen can be fun at times. Im not saying it can't be done.. just personal preference. Can't wait for some pics 8) and welcome
 
SFguy

SFguy

Well-Known Member
haha luv 2 grow.. ya i didnt think that far ahead ya 6x6 wud be a biatch to get under.. +rep for both of u.. an i dint mean to caps lock i was just too lazy to retype.. sorry for yellin
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I had three 600's on a mover. I didn't like the mover, well, I mean it was fine and all but nothing comPared to more wattage
 
thunderbay

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
I don't remember how this went last time time wise but I took cuttings 18 days ago and no roots at all. The plants look healthy sitting in the cup SANY0010.jpghumber6.jpg (think they woulda wilted and died by now). Now my girls that are in flower now had roots when I got them and they took off. Now I really can't complaint cause I didn't follow any traditional growing methods (experimenting) just threw them in cups and started watering them as needed. Oh and I did move them from below the canvas to above the canvas under 2-23 watt cfls. All this to ask...... under the circumstances shouldn't I see some roots after 18 days ??
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Hmm, that does seem like a long time with no roots. in my not so humble opinion, there are three main factors to successful cloning. Well four, but lets just assume you know how to dip your scapel or razor blade in rubbing alcohol.

1. Some strains are just a bitch to clone. Don't know why. But if you have clones this strain before then obviously that is not the issue.

2. You have to use a cloning powder or gell. I did a shoot out between the expensive jell shit at the grow store and the powder in little foil packets at home depot. They work the same. Trying to clone without it though I had much less success.

3. Finally.. and what I have found to be most important... TEMPERATURE!! When I put a heating pad under my cloning tray, it took half the time for the roots to grow. I was really really amazed.

So, I would say that if your cups are just sitting out somewhere that you need to boost temperatures and make sure to keep the substrate damp. They won't sprout root in a dry environment. I would pull them out, make fresh cuts, re-dip in rooting compound and try again.
 
profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
thunderbay said:
I don't remember how this went last time time wise but I took cuttings 18 days ago and no roots at all. The plants look healthy sitting in the cup View attachment 1879258View attachment 1879260 (think they woulda wilted and died by now). Now my girls that are in flower now had roots when I got them and they took off. Now I really can't complaint cause I didn't follow any traditional growing methods (experimenting) just threw them in cups and started watering them as needed. Oh and I did move them from below the canvas to above the canvas under 2-23 watt cfls. All this to ask...... under the circumstances shouldn't I see some roots after 18 days ??
Click to expand...

There are a few things that could be happening to cause you to be rooting slowly.

1. Too much humidity; Plants use roots to access water, if they are getting plenty through they're leaves they will be slow to root, they don't need to so why bother? I dont spray or give my clones any sort of moisture other than to the area I want rooting, make those suckers work for water.

2. Temperature; if the temp is too low they wont root but I'm going to assume this isn't the case as they don't seem to be wilting.

3. Ph; high alkalinity or base can inhibit root growth, the plant can't uptake enough water/low level nutrient to justify spending it's energy on roots.
 
profgrow

profgrow

Active Member
legallyflying said:
Hmm, that does seem like a long time with no roots. in my not so humble opinion, there are three main factors to successful cloning. Well four, but lets just assume you know how to dip your scapel or razor blade in rubbing alcohol.

1. Some strains are just a bitch to clone. Don't know why. But if you have clones this strain before then obviously that is not the issue.

2. You have to use a cloning powder or gell. I did a shoot out between the expensive jell shit at the grow store and the powder in little foil packets at home depot. They work the same. Trying to clone without it though I had much less success.

3. Finally.. and what I have found to be most important... TEMPERATURE!! When I put a heating pad under my cloning tray, it took half the time for the roots to grow. I was really really amazed.

So, I would say that if your cups are just sitting out somewhere that you need to boost temperatures and make sure to keep the substrate damp. They won't sprout root in a dry environment. I would pull them out, make fresh cuts, re-dip in rooting compound and try again.
Click to expand...

We both posted basically the same thing at the same time... love it. Same minute even.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top