Let's talk about this stupid immigration issue

fb360 · Feb 3, 2013

nontheist said:
If you were really on a budget it would have been far better to do 12' 6x6s for corner post concrete 3ft deep with center post anywhere for 14' to 20' depending on peak but being a greenhouse lower is better but snow will fuck you so area specific. With that setup you can hack ass frame around that and it wont go anywhere. Old barns all over the place 50 years old still standing using this simple cheap method. Truly not being a dickhead that roof will collapse it might make another year it might not that single 2x4 and poor bracing isn't enough especially if you have plastic strong enough to not give during high gusts. I don't know about Oregon but I live in an area during spring storms would pick that thing up and flip it upside down.

As laid out above, I would do essentially this, but with 4x4s for savings purposes

10' high, 2'deep gives you a 8' wall. Plenty of height, in fact equal to many standard houses

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
I linked "premium" grade lumber firstly, secondly, you had waste.

I would have no lumber horizontally across the bottom. Instead I would put 10x 4x4x10' load bearing beams around the GH. 4 for the corners, and 1xeast+west, 2xnoth+south
I would then use ~100' of 2x4 to put horizontals on top of the load bearing, as well as for the roof. I might need some more there, but if you do that, that shit will last through a hurricane...

I think you did good though, unlike nontheist.

hmmm, you linked to 2x4x10s, not 4x4x10s. and where is my door? and where is the framing for my extraction fans?

also, the long sides need to be buttressed unless you plan on sinking those 10 load bearing boards damn deep.

gotta finish the job, too.

fb360 · Feb 3, 2013

UncleBuck said:
hmmm, you linked to 2x4x10s, not 4x4x10s. and where is my door? and where is the framing for my extraction fans?

also, the long sides need to be buttressed unless you plan on sinking those 10 load bearing boards damn deep.

gotta finish the job, too.

They are going 2' deep in a 8"-1' diameter hole filled with concrete. They will not move.
That leaves you with 8' wall height, and unless you are a giant, even if you had a flat roof that'd be alright. We can use 2x of the 2x4s for a door frame with the already mentioned structure for another ~$8.

I forgot the exact size, but didn't you say something like 24'x12'? Giving it an area of 288ft^2, and a perimeter of 72'?
You could build a bomb shelter made of lumber for $300 at that size

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

nontheist said:
If you were really on a budget it would have been far better to do 12' 6x6s for corner post concrete 3ft deep with center post anywhere for 14' to 20' depending on peak but being a greenhouse lower is better but snow will fuck you so area specific. With that setup you can hack ass frame around that and it wont go anywhere. Old barns all over the place 50 years old still standing using this simple cheap method. Truly not being a dickhead that roof will collapse it might make another year it might not that single 2x4 and poor bracing isn't enough especially if you have plastic strong enough to not give during high gusts. I don't know about Oregon but I live in an area during spring storms would pick that thing up and flip it upside down.

fortunately, we do not get those spring storms too bad. and it does not have to endure snow, either. only has to last one summer, but it has to surely last that summer.

the roof as showing does actually look a bit frightful, so i should add that i added wood blocks from the scrap pile everywhere i could to get a few more screws through the roof and the base.

and the base is very well buttressed, too. i couldn't budge the thing if i tried, and neither can 40 mph wind gusts against well secured plastic. the winds killed the brittle plastic days before harvest and the frame didn't budge. all the tape held on, but the plastic got brittle and cracked against the strong winds where it was folded previously.

i'll have no worries if i have to use this frame again this year. although you did have a good point about not using treated wood if you want it to last longer. but again, this was not even meant to last until now when built for cheap.*

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
They are going 2' deep in a 8"-1' diameter hole filled with concrete. They will not move.
That leaves you with 8' wall height, and unless you are a giant, even if you had a flat roof that'd be alright. We can use 2x of the 2x4s for a door frame with the already mentioned structure for another ~$8.

I forgot the exact size, but didn't you say something like 24'x12'? Giving it an area of 288ft^2, and a perimeter of 72'?

it rains here until early july. then the rain stops until early october or late september. a flat roof here is death, we are not in AZ.

gotta angle the roof slightly and account for the concrete costs, including a wheelbarrow to mix it in.

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
As laid out above, I would do essentially this, but with 4x4s for savings purposes

10' high, 2'deep gives you a 8' wall. Plenty of height, in fact equal to many standard houses

need to angle the roof. the plants got to 9+ feet this year. :eyesmoke:

fb360 · Feb 3, 2013

UncleBuck said:
it rains here until early july. then the rain stops until early october or late september. a flat roof here is death, we are not in AZ.

gotta angle the roof slightly and account for the concrete costs, including a wheelbarrow to mix it in.

You definitely shouldn't make a flat roof, I was just stating worst case, you would still have a ceiling at 8' high in my design. Just to re-iterate, I never tried to insinuate you should make a flat roof; that would be retarded in OR

The cost would be ~300 just for the frame for a lifelong 24x12 GH. That doesn't include any siding or even the actual door. The cost would most likely total ~$1000 for a damn nice GH at that size

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

nontheist said:
If your greenhouse has walls dumbass

I guess you don't need seats or a seat belt for a car but all the same its recommended. Sitting around saying that you were smart enough but chose not support your roof from falling on your head to save 20 bucks is moronic. Trying to save face on a topic you know nothing about is really doing you in bucky.

First of all I am not giving your dumbass advise I am pointing out your flaws, i give two shits if it collapses on you or ends up sticking out of your prius's windshield.
You talking about hauling lumber in wife's prius then have the nerve to call someone gaylord lol.
That non-chain lumber yard will have better material not the subpar shit lowes and depot sale and are negotiable and deliver free (may have to wait a day or two) something that everyone in the contracting field knows. But you're right they would see your gay ass knew nothing and fucking cornhole you.

Unnecessary if you don't care that the roof could come crashing down on you at any given wind gust. Cap plates are absolutely necessary for building load-bearing walls.
I never said anything about OC stud width I am aware you're not insulating. Again that for throwing that out there and keep showing your ignorance.

First you have to be able to build to overbuild your load-bearing walls and amateur roof could fail at anytime. That might be your description of built but I highly doubt it's anyone else.

first, i hauled the materials in my infiniti luxury sedan through the sunroof.

secondly, what load do they have to bear? i am hanging 4 rolls of 10x25 plastic on them.

also, i did fall off the ladder while taping the plastic on and grabbed onto that useless beam you pointed out earlier, it held me just fine yet is so not-reinforced that it should only hold plastic. but it held me.

edit: the prius actually can fit an several 8' pieces lumber no problem, by the way. i get a kick out of loading my lumber into the prius, it's just LOL.

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
You definitely shouldn't make a flat roof, I was just stating worst case, you would still have a ceiling at 8' high in my design. Just to re-iterate, I never tried to insinuate you should make a flat roof' that would be retarded in OR

The cost would be ~300 just for the frame for a lifelong 24x12 GH. That doesn't include any siding or even the actual door. The cost would most likely total ~$1000 for a damn nice GH at that size

i have an easy 1000 to spend on my next GH, and believe me, it will be bigger than 12x24 :bigjoint:

i am thinking 30x30 for the same 6 plants. those bitches get large outdoors.

glad to see you realize the extra costs in the roof, that was my most hated part of the build when crunching my numbers for material cost.

nontheist · Feb 3, 2013

UncleBuck said:
first, i hauled the materials in my infiniti luxury sedan through the sunroof.

secondly, what load do they have to bear? i am hanging 4 rolls of 10x25 plastic on them.

also, i did fall off the ladder while taping the plastic on and grabbed onto that useless beam you pointed out earlier, it held me just fine yet is so not-reinforced that it should only hold plastic. but it held me.

edit: the prius actually can fit an several 8' pieces lumber no problem, by the way. i get a kick out of loading my lumber into the prius, it's just LOL.

Bucky the obvious sag shows it has more load than it can support. Your ahem "custom" rafter without joist are too much for a non capped wall. Also you keep trying to express the insignificance of the weight of plastic this isn't the problem it's the PSI that is created with area mass. a sheet of tin weighing 15bs can pitch a man and tools weighing 400lbs 30 feet in the air in an instant.

fb360 · Feb 3, 2013

UncleBuck said:
i have an easy 1000 to spend on my next GH, and believe me, it will be bigger than 12x24

i am thinking 30x30 for the same 6 plants. those bitches get large outdoors.

glad to see you realize the extra costs in the roof, that was my most hated part of the build when crunching my numbers for material cost.

I wish I could do outdoor, but my area isnt keen to it.

I don't know about making that big of a square (you would now need a center beam that runs all the way up). Make 15x40 if you want to go more sqft, and stagger the plant stance.

e;
You can do 30x30 but you have to do that one right or you will risk it collapsing

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
I wish I could do outdoor, but my area isnt keen to it.

I don't know about making that big of a square (you would now need a center beam that runs all the way up). Make 15x40 if you want to go more sqft, and stagger the plant stance.

e;
You can do 30x30 but you have to do that one right or you will risk it collapsing

you make a good point about not building a square structure, that would be risky. i'll keep that in mind if our locale changes and i have to build another one. i just want 100 sq ft per plant next time, hard to move in there otherwise.

and yes, the phoenix area is not exactly conducive to outdoor grows. nor are the HOAs for cookie cutter pulte home people such as yourself (boom, trolled).

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

nontheist said:
Bucky the obvious sag shows it has more load than it can support. Your ahem "custom" rafter without joist are too much for a non capped wall. Also you keep trying to express the insignificance of the weight of plastic this isn't the problem it's the PSI that is created with area mass. a sheet of tin weighing 15bs can pitch a man and tools weighing 400lbs 30 feet in the air in an instant.

the plastic gave out before the frame even made a sound this year, despite the obviously retarded rafters (again, i had to figure a way to set the 2x4x12s up there with no assistance). a few 2x2s corrected the sag when i barred the place up to deter thieves.*

you seem intent on top caps, i will ask my dad what he thinks next time we talk. i personally believe the extra wood scraps i screwed into place keep the thing plenty tight.

fb360 · Feb 3, 2013

UncleBuck said:
you make a good point about not building a square structure, that would be risky. i'll keep that in mind if our locale changes and i have to build another one. i just want 100 sq ft per plant next time, hard to move in there otherwise.

and yes, the phoenix area is not exactly conducive to outdoor grows. nor are the HOAs for cookie cutter pulte home people such as yourself (boom, trolled).

I could definitely make the sun work here, it's the location and types of people. Scottsdale is not a good place to grow outdoors for rippers and just inherently due to lots of people.

I would love to have enough space to grow outdoors here. The sun here is like nowhere else in the US, and I'm SURE I could grow year round (given during winter it's essentially a "flower from seed") as last year, dec 30th was 80F. This year, we had frost, but today was 75F

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
I could definitely make the sun work here, it's the location and types of people. Scottsdale is not a good place to grow outdoors for rippers and just inherently due to lots of people.

I would love to have enough space to grow outdoors here. The sun here is like nowhere else in the US, and I'm SURE I could grow year round (given during winter it's essentially a "flower from seed") as last year, dec 30th was 80F. This year, we had frost, but today was 75F

AZ was actually colder than we were when that cold spell came through. my citrus tree suffered and my parents' citrus tree nearly died. it was about 25 in gilbert from what i remember. probably about the same or worse in scottsdale.

but otherwise, year round would be easy in your parts. the tough part would be doing it while living in AZ :bigjoint:

thump easy · Feb 3, 2013

fb360 said:
I said you did a decent job. Looks structurally sound (for the most part) and like you have mentioned, utilizes the minimum amount of materials needed. Again though, I would make the roof a bit more sturdy by adding vertical beams that are in line with the ones for the wall.

Give me $100 and I could make the frame. The rest I'm unsure of the cost

e;
Here's my full EXPERT analysis:

That vertical beam on the east side is crucial for load baring of the roof (you have none so its cool). If you wanted to add considerable strength, or if you have roof loading, you would put a beam there. (notice the load bending/deforming the horizontal beam in the blue circle)

im not shure if your using one by's x but i wouldbuy some gusets and nail them to your trusses i would flip your 2 x 4's on end sideways instead of flat they work better and you wont get a bow in your wood also like everything flat like a real truss if you cant use gussets use small pieces of osb like tryangles and that works to a lil bit biger that your guset mabe like a foot down its more structual.. also if your using see threw panells you structure sill brace itself on the corners if plastic it sill rack with time and wind you need stuctual bracing on the corners every 16 penie nail has the strength of 150 lbs of pressure good luck

UncleBuck · Feb 3, 2013

thump easy said:
im not shure if your using one by's x but i wouldbuy some gusets and nail them to your trusses i would flip your 2 x 4's on end sideways instead of flat they work better and you wont get a bow in your wood also like everything flat like a real truss if you cant use gussets use small pieces of osb like tryangles and that works to a lil bit biger that your guset mabe like a foot down its more structual.. also if your using see threw panells you structure sill brace itself on the corners if plastic it sill rack with time and wind you need stuctual bracing on the corners every 16 penie nail has the strength of 150 lbs of pressure good luck

they were indeed gusseted with triangles of OSB, nodrama told me to do so and i did :eyesmoke:

thump easy · Feb 3, 2013

thats good i did big structures back in the day and some times the trusses passed inspection but the loaded didnt calc we had a fucken inspector that was way to much and we literally had to use osb over the trusses to make them stronger crazzy but it works and its stout..i usto work all kinds of angles some of the trickiest stuctures

its not letting me load but this house has half of it out of the picture the roof doesnt stop it conects to another structure of a house an RV shop and another garage they some how made the made it to us and i had to build some of the fucken trusses and get the ingineer to stamp them but this structure was a fucken head ack and a half but the home is realy fucken huge anyways we did this home form the footer all the way to roof ecept the electrical hvac and the pavers

its more pimped out on the inside i gota go man

Let's talk about this stupid immigration issue

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