LEDs Stripping Back the BS. Vegging 6 Clones under 22 Watts

Woa. Such an informative thread, brother. <nerdgasm> :subbed:

This thread is dope ill be checking in here and there, good work great knowledge.

Been trying to figure out what the jargon means related to the numbers appearing after 'SMD", so did a search

If you have a comprehensive link, please post


http://www.flexfireleds.com/pages/Comparison-between-3528-LEDs-and-5050-LEDs.html

I can't give you a comprehensive link, or even all that much, but you've piqued my interest to find out what exactly the differences are, too.

What's interesting to note is that the Cree XM-L2 is 5mmx5mm, so... technically, that's a 5050, too?

http://www.no1ledlight.com/cob-encapsulation-advantages-compared-with-traditional-smd-encapsulation-1/
The main differences between SMD and COB is the thermal path, I guess. Lower thermal resistance equates to higher efficiency and longer life.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/150635175/1-the-Difference-of-3014-3528-2835-Led-Chip
The 2835 has the highest efficiency, closely followed by the 5630.

I wonder if the difference between chips has less to do with the chip itself, and more to do with the case/materials used and the thermal resistance those materials create.

i FOUND THIS INTERESTING CLEARLY THERE IS MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE The new type LED Tube light use SMD 2835 0.2W LED chips.This chip is thinner than 3528 and 3014, so the light efficiency is more uniform.and at the bottom of the chip with heat sink,can heat dissipation better.All in all,LED Tube with SMD 2835 chips is a good choice for you.

Gearing up for my Hydro Halo Drip 2.0.

Seeds were placed in south facing kitchen window, but so far only 2 have popped, so this morning I decided to move them to the tent where clones are almost done.

This is a temporary fix. I will move them later so they can start getting 20/4

I figured out why my night temps were barely better than day. When I added the insulation I covered the air inlet down low. Last night temps were 74, which is ~ 7* lower than day, so decent at least

Once again I rearranged the location of the ice jugs. No change with lights on, but jugs now in between fan (next to in coming floor air vent) and exhaust, so night temps should drop ~ 70 from ~ 80 day. While there, I decided to check pH/ppms

Very interesting

Clone #1 (supp with ufo) ppms had risen from ~250 to 520 + pH dropped from ~6.2 > 5.1
Clone #2 stable pH 6.1, ppms 250

Flush

I am now flushing with structured water, which is RO water vortexed through my demagnetizer, then, poured through a pvc tube filled with river rocks.

I leave the plants in this aerated water for 5-10 minutes, then put them back in fresh nutes, which are also made with structured water.

Clone #1 nutes still fluctuates more than #2; higher pH though, not bad this time UP (ut was going way don), 6.5 & ppms from 250 up to 560

Clone #2 pretty much stable 6.3 and 250

Fresh Nutes (also using structured water) ~ 490/ 6.2.

I add ~ 8 ozs of pure structured water each day between flush/fresh nutes

Cree 9.5 WW globes- one cracked and has a tiny hole where it exploded, but it is working,so to be replaced later

Hey PF, just cruising around ended up here. Looking forward to following your grows.

It seems like they have added ~ 50% weight in the last 5 days, still calyxes remain small, that aside, lots and lots of trics. I am having issues with my auto-focus after dropping the camera 2ft.

Clone #1 main cola is not as full as her lower branches- most of which got cut off when I took the shot.

Clone #2 is a beast

Brain-Fart

I have been thinking about how to do this for a long, long time

I came up with 'how' while helping someone else with their rez issues

Plus, I have been thinking how to swap my 4 head 35 L/M pump from my 2 DWC pails (without compromising them), so I could use it to double the air stones in the seedlings tote. The more oxygenated the nutes the better. The airspace between the water line and the bottom of the net pots becomes super saturated with microscopic nutes, which are most bioavailable

I have 2 small 160 gph pumps on hand, awaiting the seedlings to get bigger. These pumps will be used in each HH rez to pump nutes through the HH Spray Rings.

Also, I think cascading the nutes over river rocks will provide a constant supply of CHI (energy) to the nutes

Here are the pics. I had to cut the tubing from the first pic to clear the bottom of the net pots. It would be much easier and better if I had 5 G pails instead of 3g.

Roots are amazingly small compared to size of plants.

Hey PF man you got it down pretty tight! Cfl's and LED'S can work really well(obviously) but are funny entities. I see from your pics that they are not receiving enough light to swell up at the end and give you that additional weight. With your efforts and your set up you should consider another light of some kind, Your right there... they want to pop but just don't have the energy. Looking mighty tasty....Good Luck

SirG, You are 100% correct, sir.

I am staying with LEDs, but the damn tech is changing so fast, I did not want to get too deep into it. Plus I wanted 2400-2700 tubes, but they are not readily available, though 2700s might be special ordered ($$$$$). In searching hard for them I came across the replacement for tubes...

I hope to have 2 @ 2 x 2 panels (45-60w each) to add for next grow

Just in time for the Sat seeds BrandX is sending

ALSO, looks like I will be beta testing a new A51 light

I wouldn't think about telling you to change lighting, looks to me you understand the nature of LED'S pretty well. Those 2x2 panels should make things swell up for sure. Nice!

It finally dawned on me to hook up my HH Ring

Here's an interesting article/interview about EZ water

http://articles.*******.com/sites/articles/archive/2013/08/18/exclusion-zone-water.aspx?e_cid=20130818Z1_SNL_Art_1&utm_source=snl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20130818Z1