Leaf damage? Dtw coco

Well looking at the report you have what is considered “very hard” water. Your calcium isn’t super high, but the chloride and sulfates are at the top of their ranges. 190 ppm total hardness plus the other stuff that isn’t included in that calculation. All the different stuff on that list can interact with the stuff in your nutrients and medium to create a guessing game.

I think better water would give you more control-able results.

I had water in the 300ppm range at one house I lived at and couldn’t get any plants to really grow right for a couple months. I started filling gallons at a local water filling station. It was like $5 for 25 gallons or something like that and I had to haul them back and forth from my grow. It was a pain in thee ass to say the least, but the plants grew beautifully after the switch.

That was stuck in my text box I couldnt get rid of it.

Thundercat said:

Well looking at the report you have what is considered “very hard” water. Your calcium isn’t super high, but the chloride and sulfates are at the top of their ranges. 190 ppm total hardness plus the other stuff that isn’t included in that calculation. All the different stuff on that list can interact with the stuff in your nutrients and medium to create a guessing game.

I think better water would give you more control-able results.

I had water in the 300ppm range at one house I lived at and couldn’t get any plants to really grow right for a couple months. I started filling gallons at a local water filling station. It was like $5 for 25 gallons or something like that and I had to haul them back and forth from my grow. It was a pain in thee ass to say the least, but the plants grew beautifully after the switch.

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Anyway, yeah thanks for the detailed response I havent really had someone look at it last time like that. I just tried relaying most of it and I guess it wasnt the same as this.

I screen shotted, noted will start to look into going that route but wont be easy.

Thundercat said:

Well looking at the report you have what is considered “very hard” water. Your calcium isn’t super high, but the chloride and sulfates are at the top of their ranges. 190 ppm total hardness plus the other stuff that isn’t included in that calculation. All the different stuff on that list can interact with the stuff in your nutrients and medium to create a guessing game.

I think better water would give you more control-able results.

I had water in the 300ppm range at one house I lived at and couldn’t get any plants to really grow right for a couple months. I started filling gallons at a local water filling station. It was like $5 for 25 gallons or something like that and I had to haul them back and forth from my grow. It was a pain in thee ass to say the least, but the plants grew beautifully after the switch.

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You should consider a RO system for your water.

twentyeight.threefive said:

You should consider a RO system for your water.

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Funny you mention that. I bought one at the end of that grow. I also moved to a different state. Then at the new house i didn’t even need the RO system, the water was awesome, lol. Thankfully I was able to return it and purchased some much needed ventilation instead.

Thundercat said:

Funny you mention that. I bought one at the end of that grow. I also moved to a different state. Then at the new house i didn’t even need the RO system, the water was awesome, lol. Thankfully I was able to return it and purchased some much needed ventilation instead.

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Sorry that was meant for the OP. I just thought quoting what you replied was relevant.

ec121 said:

I'd be interested in any information you can link (not furnished by a nutrient line) that states chemical flushing agents are the only way to get rid of a buildup.

Toxic buildup is salt that has crystalized out of solution. Water will dissolve salt crystals because salt is water soluble; it's just going to take a shitload to do it because it has crystalized.

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I'm usually the last person to suggest anyone buy snake oil additives\bogus products, but those overpriced bottles of sugar water and preservatives the nute companies sell do work as intended, and come highly reviewed. So good it will even start to strip the residues right out of the saucers/floodtrays before your very eyes, let alone the medium in the pots, when loads of water or extra low nutrient solution just won't cut it like that..

I haven't tried GH's florakleen, but its only $10 for a quart (You could probably ask for free sample bottles to test out..), and likely just as good as the other brands I've used. So not really a rip off IMO. You can use it in a spray bottle to keep all the lines and other stuff clean too, without hurting the plant. Spray the main stalk down, and the drip rings, etc

It would probably even help kleer out hard water mineral scale build ups too, I would imagine. I dunno though, because I still continue to truck in good 35ppm choriminated water from town every week, after all these years..

I agree that fixing the root issues like the water source and not letting toxic levels ever build up in the first place is the way to go. Using good water and a balanced nutrient profile. Salt buildup should never really be an issue.

I recall OP talking about inconsistancies in the watering, which can really lead to problems quick, and figured a good flushing with agents might help out quick, especially with runoff numbers that high, etc.