Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
A picture is worth a thousand words. Until then . . . we're all still guessing.Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it.
From what age are you feeding at that strength? And, how different is that from when you were under HID?
Did you have issues trying to feed at the same strength you did using the old halides?
This might be where I'm going wrong.
Slow growth, lack of vigour, spindly stems, some interveinal chlorosis, and the leaves curling down away from the light rather than praying up for it. Generally slow shitty plants.
Nice. So what's your environment setup, ie temps/Rh/light distance etc
Thanks man
Maybe you're frying the seedlings with light – who knows? How are you measuring your PPFD? How many watts of light are you using over what area and at what hang height? If you're using strips I'm guessing you built the light yourself?
A picture is worth a thousand words. Ah, but I just said that.
Tip #1 If your tap water is hard, then it is usually a good source of calcium-carbonate and magnesium-carbonate (from limestone water sources). It can also be a good source of zinc, iron and copper due to leaching from the pipes. An exception is if you live near a desalination plant, in which case most of the hardness will likely be sodium.
If you use RO or demineralised water, then you will nearly always need an additional source of Ca and Mg, especially in coco (more of which later).
If you use tap water, your base EC must be added to the recomended EC. For example, with a base EC of 0.3 (my tap water), I can add 2.0 EC worth of nutrient for a total of 2.3.
But generally speaking, you also need to increase your EC under LED to compensate for lower transpiration. Just as you need to increase EC slightly in cooler weather and decrease it slilghtly in warmer weather. You need to adapt to the conditions.
In the mean time, a short story . . .