Jack's 321 Questions

im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
shawnery said:
Can't you just use fulvic acid for organic chelation instead of looking for nutrients that are chelated or am I missing something?
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yes you can

but I don't because I don't like the scum the fulvic creates in my reservoir

if your mix is balanced you really don't need chelates.... I keep some around that I never use but it would be handy if every I needed a foliar spray of something specific for some reason or if I feel like experimenting

but mostly I just use the stem on rare occasion as a foliar and it works great
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Skybound420 said:
FWIW, I haven't mixed any of my products until the weekly res change and my concentrates are very diluted at 1 gram to 10ml, and everything now is in 9 different bottles. I have my eye on this Iron that turns out to be the same Iron you're using. Do you think it would be ok to mix into the STEM?

https://customhydronutrients.com/sprint-chelated-iron-fertilizer-c-1_50_100.html?zenid=9c09ba135633c88b922336900a63ac21

Edit - scratch that, IDK WTF I was looking at, but after rereading the bottle, there's no chelates in it, so I'll just add more iron sulfate till I can get a 2 out of it.
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I use the dtpa and it goes in the stock tank with calcium nitrate

if my memory serves I believe that's the correct and only way to use it in concentrate

again I don't want to speak out of turn but I think at least one of the other types of iron can be used in the sulfur stock tank and I want to say its iron edta but im not positive
again..its been a while since I refereshed my memory on reagents im not really using or haven't used in over a decade but for what its worth that should give you enough info to research it or just use the dtpa in the calcium stock side like I do

if your bent on adding it to the sulfur tank you may look into the other options...but I seem to also remember something about iron edta not being as safe to handle....but again I could be recalling incorrectly
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Skybound420 said:
When I started with the salts I was adding a fulvic/humic/kelp blend, but it would only stay suspended for about a day, then just settle on the bottom of the res. I now just use that in my compost teas.
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humic acid isn't water soluble it is for soil

I know I know
recently humic acid has been advertised and sold for hydro!!! it shouldn't be!!

fulvic acid and kelp are fine and if not over used will be soluble...but I don't use organic materials as a preference because I like to see my reservoir crystal clear without the scum and foam the organic additives will leave

so for that reason I don't bother with fulvic and I foliar feed kelp on rare occasions
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
They must've saw me coming as they say. Kelp4Less advertises it as water soluble. I found that out the hard way and no longer use it except in my compost tea. This is actually a lesson I learned the hard way years back about mixing synthetic nutes with organic nutes when I tried supplementing calimagic for CaMg+ which is General Organic's calmag. That shit hardly dissolved and left me with snot everywhere.

I think I'll just go with Iron Sulfate and stay clear of the chelated stuff. Looking at the label for Jack's, I can see where I got the idea for chelated metals, yet the STEM is all sulfates. I find that I need to up STEM's iron contents from 7.5% to 11%. Do you think you can help me figure out the math? I also must relive the PH nightmare from a few weeks back regarding my insistence to use silica. I grabbed some Potassium Silicate and hole shit that stuff is highly base. When using GH silica, I only needed to add minimal amounts of PH down, and usually not till 2 days after initial mix. With Potassium Silicate, it requires 1.5ml/Gal of PH down right from the start.

Fulvic-Humic-Kelp-Blend

Potassium Silicate

5-12-26.JPG
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Skybound420 said:
They must've saw me coming as they say. Kelp4Less advertises it as water soluble. I found that out the hard way and no longer use it except in my compost tea. This is actually a lesson I learned the hard way years back about mixing synthetic nutes with organic nutes when I tried supplementing calimagic for CaMg+ which is General Organic's calmag. That shit hardly dissolved and left me with snot everywhere.

I think I'll just go with Iron Sulfate and stay clear of the chelated stuff. Looking at the label for Jack's, I can see where I got the idea for chelated metals, yet the STEM is all sulfates. I find that I need to up STEM's iron contents from 7.5% to 11%. Do you think you can help me figure out the math? I also must relive the PH nightmare from a few weeks back regarding my insistence to use silica. I grabbed some Potassium Silicate and hole shit that stuff is highly base. When using GH silica, I only needed to add minimal amounts of PH down, and usually not till 2 days after initial mix. With Potassium Silicate, it requires 1.5ml/Gal of PH down right from the start.

Fulvic-Humic-Kelp-Blend

Potassium Silicate

View attachment 4242057
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I really think you should just use the stem at 0.1 grams per gallon and call it good
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Skybound420 said:
As it is now, all doses are 0.043 grams per gallon, .1 would be astronomically more. Maybe I can bump it up to an even 0.05 though?
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puts the iron at 2ppm

used it for years with no problem and many people have been using it for years

im currently using it on veg for my direct addition veg reservoir

I been using it for well over a decade

your doing great and you learn fast but don't over complicate things
 
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shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Thanks again!

I didn't think leaves changes for the better but the younger leaves are certainly showing more green. Everything else is as it was and old nute damage. My plants went from eating very little to ravenously consuming 200ppm in 3 days at the same ec level as with the old mix.
 

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shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Since all this info is here.

Any chance one of you would double check my figures? I'd rather admit I doubt my understanding of the app and my tendency to get things wrong then screw my girls.

KoolBloom,
N-2.0%
P2o5-45%
K2o-28%
Mg-1.0%
S-1.5%

Last grow I just used the same mix the entire grow and it did pretty well so I'm not sure of when to switch. Do I switch to bloom nutes the minute I switch or wait till the stretch is done?
 

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Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I lost all of my saved solutions when trying to edit the program files in an editor, so I had to reinstall, but didn't add any GH back in. Generally speaking though, when adding a custom solution, just transfer the percentages from the label into the respective fields in the app, but ensure to select P2O5 and K2O from the drop down menus, and the app will convert each respectively. This rule also applies to SiO2 if using silica. If the product label lists the contents as P, K or Si, then leave the drop downs alone, but if listed as P2O5, K2O or SiO2, then the drop downs are needed.
 
cleverpiggy

cleverpiggy

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have an opinion about switching from Dyna Bloom to Jacks 321 3 weeks into bloom. I am thinking probably not a good idea, why create trouble when all is going fine.
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
cleverpiggy said:
Does anyone have an opinion about switching from Dyna Bloom to Jacks 321 3 weeks into bloom. I am thinking probably not a good idea, why create trouble when all is going fine.
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I see no problem switching things mid way. I've done it several times with various components as I switched over to mixing my own concentrates.
 
thenasty1

thenasty1

Well-Known Member
cleverpiggy said:
Does anyone have an opinion about switching from Dyna Bloom to Jacks 321 3 weeks into bloom. I am thinking probably not a good idea, why create trouble when all is going fine.
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ive switched mid flower without issue
but if you are not out of your current nutes, and things are going well, id just let it ride and start the new stuff next run
 
Skybound420

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
If you learn how to use Hydro Buddy, you can input all of the percentages listed on your bottles (except AN) and use Hydro Buddy to create a new feed chart with your existing nutes and create the same type of numbers you'd get from Jack's 321 or any other recipe. They all use the same materials, except with the Jack's you're cutting out the buying of water, but since you already bought it, might as well keep using it till you have all the other salts and stuff. Shortly after starting with the salts, I found myself including certain liquids from my reserves of GH. I used GH Flora Micro as a micro amendment for a while till I got STEM, also used Armor Si for a while till I bought Potassium Silicate. I also stopped using Jack's and went with Peter's Pro 5-11-26 as that's easier for me to order. Ordering from Jack's directly is sketchy b/c their packaging has Jack's Hydroponic Nutrients stickered all over the box. When I got it, I was like WTF bro??? I'm not learning that lesson twice, but I was fortunate that Custom Hydro sells the Peters.

https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/making-your-own-nutrient-concentrates.455187/
 
G

Gno702

Active Member
firsttimeARE said:
I do 2.4g Jack's, 1.6g CaNO3 and don't use Epsom (my plants never miss it)

In mid flowering I've been reducing CaNO3 levels

I incorporate MKP from weeks 2-5. Then potassium sulfate I've been using to increase terps and bulk later flower. From weeks 6 and on.
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Question for you are you still running Jack's hydro ?? And are you still putting the mkp in ? And at how much are you putting in grams per gallon ?
I'm running at 3.6 Jack's
2.4 cal nit
1.2 Epsom
I'm at day30 anyways curious when to switch was thinking of running
2 g of Jack's
2 g cal nit
2 g Epsom
1.2 m. K. P
.5 most trace
Anu help would greatly appreciated
 
icetech

icetech

Well-Known Member
Just curious if someone could post a pic of their roots with jacks? or tell me if their roots are bright white or slightly tan? My plants are healthy and i don't see anything bad in the roots/buckets but the roots are a bit off white and not bright white, i'm not sure if it's the jacks staining them or if i have a issue that just hasn't kicked in fully yet.

P.S. I run sterile with H2O2.. are there any root boosters that work with jacks in a sterile setup? or just stay with jacks alone like i have?
 
R

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
icetech said:
Just curious if someone could post a pic of their roots with jacks? or tell me if their roots are bright white or slightly tan? My plants are healthy and i don't see anything bad in the roots/buckets but the roots are a bit off white and not bright white, i'm not sure if it's the jacks staining them or if i have a issue that just hasn't kicked in fully yet.

P.S. I run sterile with H2O2.. are there any root boosters that work with jacks in a sterile setup? or just stay with jacks alone like i have?
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When I use Jack's I use microbes for a feeding or 2 then I do a feeding with hydrogen peroxide then back to the microbes so I basically try to sterilize like twice a month. I run in coco with autopots so I don't ever look at my roots
 
icetech

icetech

Well-Known Member
Ryante55 said:
When I use Jack's I use microbes for a feeding or 2 then I do a feeding with hydrogen peroxide then back to the microbes so I basically try to sterilize like twice a month. I run in coco with autopots so I don't ever look at my roots
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Ah thanks, yeah i'm using H202 and no microbes. plants are happy just wondering bout the coloring.. i'm sure it's fine :)
 
R

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
icetech said:
Ah thanks, yeah i'm using H202 and no microbes. plants are happy just wondering bout the coloring.. i'm sure it's fine :)
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Microbes seem to keep the plants healthier in late flower in my experience I've always had yellowing earlier without the microbes. But if your doing dwc its probably different
 
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