Is this Nutrient Burn or Light Burn?

Cigarz said:

What do you mean? You mean the ph of the water with nutrients in it? My nutrients are solids you mix them into water.

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Mix your nutrient solution as always and monitor its pH for next 24hr. Just let it sit and take measurement after 12hrs and than after 24hrs. You should see it drifting back to some point thanks to the water buffer capacity. Your nutrients already have enough calcium, it means your “deficiency” is not because you have not provided calcium, but it can be antagonized by to much K from your pH up or by other culprit like to much calcium (even if it is not in exchangable or soluble form) in your tap plus calcium in your base plus calcium from calmag plus calcium in your medium as dolomite lime and than shitload of pH up. That leads me to suggest skipping calmag as well as pHing to 6,3. If it not drifts back above 6,0 after one day sit, than adjust it to 5,8-6,2 and feed. When go plain forget about pH. At the end I would like to mention, that you need time to see improvement, doing so much things in short period of time gives you nothing to the future since you wont be able determine which one actually worked for you.

Heres some new pictures... still getting some of the rust colored spots on new leafs... any ideas?

Bukvičák said:

Mix your nutrient solution as always and monitor its pH for next 24hr. Just let it sit and take measurement after 12hrs and than after 24hrs. You should see it drifting back to some point thanks to the water buffer capacity. Your nutrients already have enough calcium, it means your “deficiency” is not because you have not provided calcium, but it can be antagonized by to much K from your pH up or by other culprit like to much calcium (even if it is not in exchangable or soluble form) in your tap plus calcium in your base plus calcium from calmag plus calcium in your medium as dolomite lime and than shitload of pH up. That leads me to suggest skipping calmag as well as pHing to 6,3. If it not drifts back above 6,0 after one day sit, than adjust it to 5,8-6,2 and feed. When go plain forget about pH. At the end I would like to mention, that you need time to see improvement, doing so much things in short period of time gives you nothing to the future since you wont be able determine which one actually worked for you.

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Good advice ill do this today. So how would i go about getting ph to 6.2-6.3? Or is that not important i thought 6.3 was the sweet spot.

Bukvičák said:

Mix your nutrient solution as always and monitor its pH for next 24hr. Just let it sit and take measurement after 12hrs and than after 24hrs. You should see it drifting back to some point thanks to the water buffer capacity. Your nutrients already have enough calcium, it means your “deficiency” is not because you have not provided calcium, but it can be antagonized by to much K from your pH up or by other culprit like to much calcium (even if it is not in exchangable or soluble form) in your tap plus calcium in your base plus calcium from calmag plus calcium in your medium as dolomite lime and than shitload of pH up. That leads me to suggest skipping calmag as well as pHing to 6,3. If it not drifts back above 6,0 after one day sit, than adjust it to 5,8-6,2 and feed. When go plain forget about pH. At the end I would like to mention, that you need time to see improvement, doing so much things in short period of time gives you nothing to the future since you wont be able determine which one actually worked for you.

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I'm thinking it might be phosphorous deficiency because of too much potassium? I really didnt use a lot of PH up like I said a cap full for 5 gallons but who knows. I'll lay off the PH up/down and calmag and nutrients ill just do straight PH water. I'll also test my nutrients water after 24 hours

Hmm so I tested water today just the base from my tap and its 6PH and 120-140PPM... hmm weird last time I checked it was 7PH and 180-200PPM. Maybe that was my issue... so now my question is how do I raise my PH because nutrients will bring it down quite a bit.

/e after adding nutrients and waiting 10 mins PPM is upto 600 and PH is down to around 5PH... so how do I bring my PH upto 6 without PHup? Also I checked EC and it's like 2.5... which is way high my nutrients call for 1EC how the heck do I lower it?

Cigarz said:

Hmm so I tested water today just the base from my tap and its 6PH and 120-140PPM... hmm weird last time I checked it was 7PH and 180-200PPM. Maybe that was my issue... so now my question is how do I raise my PH because nutrients will bring it down quite a bit.

/e after adding nutrients and waiting 10 mins PPM is upto 600 and PH is down to around 5PH... so how do I bring my PH upto 6 without PHup? Also I checked EC and it's like 2.5... which is way high my nutrients call for 1EC how the heck do I lower it?

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Once your tap waters pH changes fromday to day, than it changes its EC as well. There is no same tap water with different pH and same EC... check you pH pen for calibration! EC 2,5 is crazy high and I do not understand where it all came from when your base gives you like 500ppm in total, so let say your tap + base is around EC 1,5 and the rest is calcium magnesium and potassium??? BTW promix claims pH 5,6-6,2 on their pages, so where the 6,2-6,4 came from?

Cigarz said:

Hmm so I tested water today just the base from my tap and its 6PH and 120-140PPM... hmm weird last time I checked it was 7PH and 180-200PPM. Maybe that was my issue... so now my question is how do I raise my PH because nutrients will bring it down quite a bit.

/e after adding nutrients and waiting 10 mins PPM is upto 600 and PH is down to around 5PH... so how do I bring my PH upto 6 without PHup? Also I checked EC and it's like 2.5... which is way high my nutrients call for 1EC how the heck do I lower it?

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Oh now I see you mentioned also lower EC. My bad

Bukvičák said:

Once your tap waters pH changes fromday to day, than it changes its EC as well. There is no same tap water with different pH and same EC... check you pH pen for calibration! EC 2,5 is crazy high and I do not understand where it all came from when your base gives you like 500ppm in total, so let say your tap + base is around EC 1,5 and the rest is calcium magnesium and potassium??? BTW promix claims pH 5,6-6,2 on their pages, so where the 6,2-6,4 came from?

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Every person ive talked to and all the research ive seen says 6-6.3 is best for promix. Even a guy on this thread. Also calcium doesnt kick in until 6.3 and from what ive seen on graphs the best nutrient intake is 6.0-6.3 idk how ive always grown. Also i fucked up on my math, PPM is around 450-500 and EC is around 1.3-1.4 after being mixed with nutrients , once again i needed pH up because after adding nutrients my pH is 5... nothing i can really do i guess my base tap water is between 6 and 6.5 depending on a few factors, after im done adding 6 grams of nutrients my pH is all the way down to 5 which is no good... soo how do i raise ph without potassium? Also how do i raise phospherous? The rust colors on my leaves have to be there due to either nutrient defficiency or because of too much, i cant figure out what im doing wrong... never had this issue outdoors. Im growing 9 plants and the biggest ones the only one having an issue... all ive ever done is fill a bucket with tap drop in nutes and ph to around 6... so idk why my indoors suffering. Temps decent humidity is good lights are perfect im at a loss

Bukvičák said:

Oh now I see you mentioned also lower EC. My bad

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Why, do you recommend a ph lower than 6? A few have claimed that 5.6-5.8 is best but idk its hard since its not tech soil. I could try running with less ph or less nutrients?

Cigarz said:

Why, do you recommend a ph lower than 6? A few have claimed that 5.6-5.8 is best but idk its hard since its not tech soil. I could try running with less ph or less nutrients?

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I am just giving advices based on what worked in my environment and what I grew. I have also read the books but sometimes there is huge difference between theory and practice. I can say this does not work and than come a guy completely destroying what I said doing completely opposite things working very well for him but not for me. These mixes are all limed to 5,5 because its just peat (3,5 pH) perlite (neutral) and dolomite lime is pHing the peat. Since you are on logaritmic scale, so pH from 3,5 to 5,5 is 100 times more basic. Does not matter I give up. Since I feel from your every answer just offense and negation to my advices I am no more willing to go thru with you. Good luck!

Bukvičák said:

I am just giving advices based on what worked in my environment and what I grew. I have also read the books but sometimes there is huge difference between theory and practice. I can say this does not work and than come a guy completely destroying what I said doing completely opposite things working very well for him but not for me. These mixes are all limed to 5,5 because its just peat (3,5 pH) perlite (neutral) and dolomite lime is pHing the peat. Since you are on logaritmic scale, so pH from 3,5 to 5,5 is 100 times more basic. Does not matter I give up. Since I feel from your every answer just offense and negation to my advices I am no more willing to go thru with you. Good luck!

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Not sure why youre so offended, ive never once been rude and have followed all given advice. I feel alot of people on this forum lately are not super friendly. Oh well, you dont have to help me if its going to infuriate you. Ive never heard 3.5-5.5 being basic i thought 5.5-6.5 was basic idk.

Cigarz said:

Not sure why youre so offended, ive never once been rude and have followed all given advice. I feel alot of people on this forum lately are not super friendly. Oh well, you dont have to help me if its going to infuriate you. Ive never heard 3.5-5.5 being basic i thought 5.5-6.5 was basic idk.

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Okay I probably wrote it bad. 5,5 is 100 times less acidic than 3,5. Sense is the same...

edit: base is above 7

Reporting back...

So PH of my Tap Water is around 6.5-7PH depending which faucet etc. If I let it sit for around a day or two the PH goes up maybe .1-.2 nothing drastic. I've tried using calmag in between feedings and I've tried just using PH water... Nothing seems to be working and the problems getting worse, and now other plants are getting yellowing leaves. I also tried cutting my nutrient feed IN HALF, I feel like I've tried everything. I'm going to test my runoff PH/EC today and see what's going on, but again most people say runoff means nothing... Not sure what exactly I'm doing wrong, I grow outdoor every year without a hitch, but this indoor grow has been one problem after another.

Also I got my temps down to 75f and my humidity sits around 50-60%. Lights are about 24" above canopy at 60-70%.