Is this from low humidity?

MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
Hi, my room is running at 80.6 degrees F and 30% humidity. I transplanted my clones that were in rockwool cubes straight into the 5 gallon pots. Roots Original soil with some coco fiber on top as a mulch. I've given them one veg feeding using the(Roots Organics Master Feeding Schedule). Transplanted 12 days ago. Watered them in with pure water really heavy, they showed stress till day 5 then started perking up. Watered with veg nutes and topdress about 6 days later. I'ts been 6 days since. Also, notice one plant with a few spider mite bites, so I sprayed all the plants pretty heavily with Azamax. Though they were doing the eagle claw leaf roll before that. It is mainly the Mendo Breath showing what I believe to be heat stress and/or humidity problem. What do ya'll think? Thank you for your time :)
 

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Bugeye

Well-Known Member
You are feeding them too soon and it is a little too warm. Try to get your temps down a couple degrees if you can. Just water only for a couple weeks. I don't think humidity is the issue.

You can water a little more frequently until their roots fill out the pot.

Azamax may or may not work with your mites. Applying it too heavy to over fed plants in high heat will burn them up. Mitey Wash is good stuff in my experience.
 

MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
You are feeding them too soon and it is a little too warm. Try to get your temps down a couple degrees if you can. Just water only for a couple weeks. I don't think humidity is the issue.

You can water a little more frequently until their roots fill out the pot.

Azamax may or may not work with your mites. Applying it too heavy to over fed plants in high heat will burn them up. Mitey Wash is good stuff in my experience.
You think the eagle claw is from mild nitrogen toxicity? That would definitely make sense. As for the temp its mostly 77 degress around the majority of the plants. Only a few spots hitting 80-82 and the co2 is at 1500ppm which ive read at that level 85 is ideal, but i personally think 80 is much better. Definitely got a few burn spots on the leaves after the Azamaxing, white patches looking like light burn and some light brownish, almost resembling mag deficiency. I'm only vegging for maybe 4 more days, otherwise they will get too tall. I usually trigger flower when they are the height they are at and they finish around 3 - 3 1/2 feet tall. Maybe wait to feed after a week into flower? But the master feeding schedule calls for feeding every watering, maybe not follow it to a T?
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
my guess is azomax is the culprit plants look stressed a bit give them a week and see what happens and try to bump up the RH its much needed
Humidity controls the rate of transpiration and how the nutrients are received by the plant. Just as with humans, if the humidity gets too low, our skin can become dry and flaky. We transpire by sweating more fluids out in lower humidity levels. The humidity level is like a pressure cap on the plant, keeping the moisture in the plant, allowing it to have proper transpiration rates of the fluids. Ideal humidity levels in a grow room range between 50% to 70% in vegetative growth, and 50% to 60% for flowering plants.

When humidity levels drop too low, the plants transpire at a rate much quicker than that of nutrient uptake. The nutrients or minerals do not transpire thru the plant, only the water does. So this leaves behind a concentrated level of nutrients in the plant that will actually cause a nutrient burn. Most people don’t realize in situations like these that the humidity could be responsible; usually thinking that it is too many nutrients in the reservoir. Just as a lack of CO2 can cause a plant to go dormant, low humidity can cause a plant to have nutrient problems, resulting from the transpiration rate being much too high in low humidity level environments.
 

Solar Flowered

Active Member
You think the eagle claw is from mild nitrogen toxicity? That would definitely make sense. As for the temp its mostly 77 degress around the majority of the plants. Only a few spots hitting 80-82 and the co2 is at 1500ppm which ive read at that level 85 is ideal, but i personally think 80 is much better. Definitely got a few burn spots on the leaves after the Azamaxing, white patches looking like light burn and some light brownish, almost resembling mag deficiency. I'm only vegging for maybe 4 more days, otherwise they will get too tall. I usually trigger flower when they are the height they are at and they finish around 3 - 3 1/2 feet tall. Maybe wait to feed after a week into flower? But the master feeding schedule calls for feeding every watering, maybe not follow it to a T?
I would cool things down about 5 degrees and make sure the soil bags are light before irrigation. A week of pH'd cal-mag would most likely help the leaves from turning yellow. Hope this helps. :)
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Overwatering.
not necessarily if other enviroments were in check i would agree that the issue lies in root system or temps but in this case with real low RH it could very well mean not enough water and a gradual build up of salts eventually leading to burnt roots and plant with the drooping its either over or under watering i am guessing the plant needs more water to nutrient ratio for starters
 

Solar Flowered

Active Member
not necessarily if other enviroments were in check i would agree that the issue lies in root system or temps but in this case with real low RH it could very well mean not enough water and a gradual build up of salts eventually leading to burnt roots and plant with the drooping its either over or under watering i am guessing the plant needs more water to nutrient ratio for starters
When I put my girls into the room where they sleep a try to run a humidity as low as possible. However, I only feed my plants 80% strength tops so any concentration of nutrients doesn't turn into a problem. However, what got me this year was heat damage from improper root management during a heat wave... and this dropping looks a bit similar to what I saw in my plants a few weeks ago.
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
I would cool things down about 5 degrees and make sure the soil bags are light before irrigation. A week of pH'd cal-mag would most likely help the leaves from turning yellow. Hope this helps. :)
why more Calmag ??? with higher temps comes more plant water uptake i used to grow at what most consider optimum temp range since bumping temps up to 86 - 88 i see improvements accross the board in veg and when in flower as weeks go by i drop my temps with wicked results
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
this looks like the case where possibly plants were still damp, from treatment and lights came on or recently transplanted but how can a plant be perfectly healthy when there is low RH .. go walk into a botanic garden and look at them plants thats the difference between healthy plant and everything working properly ,, then look at plants with very low VPD growers need to find the equilibrium water in air ratio its more important then lights
 

Solar Flowered

Active Member
this looks like the case where possibly plants were still damp, from treatment and lights came on or recently transplanted but how can a plant be perfectly healthy when there is low RH .. go walk into a botanic garden and look at them plants thats the difference between healthy plant and everything working properly ,, then look at plants with very low VPD growers need to find the equilibrium water in air ratio its more important then lights
I think if the plants were not stressed by the heat.. the low RH would have a minor negative effect on plant metabolism. I don't think as much emphasis needs to be put on low RH... Just zero diff or consistent temperatures when the plants are awake and when they are sleeping. One heat spike could mean weeks worth of recovery for the roots.

I also recommend cal-mag because I use well water.. and I always find watering with straight well water for me help rebound plants with root damage the quickest way possible.
 
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MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
So yeah definitely getting the eagle claw because they are overwatered. Just taking a 6 month break has made me feel like a beginner again lol. Should've been able to figure that one out. Almost watered again with Hygrozyme, but then remembered to go poke and prod a bunch of pots to see how much water was in the soil still. After thorough poking around they definitely were overwatered, going to let them do their thing a few more days and then when they're ready I'll give Hygrozyme with the next watering. Thanks for everyones input :)
 

James Bond23

New Member
So yeah definitely getting the eagle claw because they are overwatered. Just taking a 6 month break has made me feel like a beginner again lol. Should've been able to figure that one out. Almost watered again with Hygrozyme, but then remembered to go poke and prod a bunch of pots to see how much water was in the soil still. After thorough poking around they definitely were overwatered, going to let them do their thing a few more days and then when they're ready I'll give Hygrozyme with the next watering. Thanks for everyones input :)
[/QUOTE over watering let medium dry out before next water
 

bignugs68

Well-Known Member
Question about the grow...whats your ppfd?? Ive heard some people say stuff like "Dr bugbee recommends 1200/1200(ppfd/CO2 ppm)"

Is your ppfd that insanely high to demand CO2 in veg? I have no hands on experience FYI; just noticed something out of the norm to what I've read. If your ppfd is below 850, would the CO2 be a waste in veg? Save till your mid flower?? Just speculating growmie :bigjoint:
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
So yeah definitely getting the eagle claw because they are overwatered. Just taking a 6 month break has made me feel like a beginner again lol. Should've been able to figure that one out. Almost watered again with Hygrozyme, but then remembered to go poke and prod a bunch of pots to see how much water was in the soil still. After thorough poking around they definitely were overwatered, going to let them do their thing a few more days and then when they're ready I'll give Hygrozyme with the next watering. Thanks for everyones input :)
Hey so when you say “give them a few more days and when ready give zyme on next watering”, makes me think your watering practice is likely your biggest culprit. Don’t think about it as a “watering” but……simply adding moisture to your medium. Do this every single day with soil grown… don’t skip any days, don’t allow any dry out, but try to maintain a Goldilocks moisture level…. You’re adding moisture to the medium, NOT watering. The plant and work with the life in the soil and move the water around as needed. No need to put the poor system into a state of hydrophobic shock every three days cause the internet told you to let you soil dry out. The plant hates that shit more than rock salt. It’s constantly stressed, needs way way way more water. Especially when there’s no moisture in the air, it needs more at the roots than to compensate for way out of wack VPD…
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Question about the grow...whats your ppfd?? Ive heard some people say stuff like "Dr bugbee recommends 1200/1200(ppfd/CO2 ppm)"

Is your ppfd that insanely high to demand CO2 in veg? I have no hands on experience FYI; just noticed something out of the norm to what I've read. If your ppfd is below 850, would the CO2 be a waste in veg? Save till your mid flower?? Just speculating growmie :bigjoint:
Co2 still is usually a waste, it doesn’t make buds bigger, commercial operations consider yield increases from co2 an equation of total days in a cyxle to total weight. So when “they say 30% increase in yield” typically is because the co2 enriched HOT environment, allow veg, and early flower time to be cut down and could cut down say 2 weeks off the whole cycle, so if a 9 week cycle cut down to 7, total yield increases are dramatically increased on a calendar year, not so much in the actual size of flowers…
 
Id say Raise your light a good bit and make sure vents are open at bottom of tent looks like the need some cooler/fresher air maybe a little less light intensity
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Question about the grow...whats your ppfd?? Ive heard some people say stuff like "Dr bugbee recommends 1200/1200(ppfd/CO2 ppm)"

Is your ppfd that insanely high to demand CO2 in veg? I have no hands on experience FYI; just noticed something out of the norm to what I've read. If your ppfd is below 850, would the CO2 be a waste in veg? Save till your mid flower?? Just speculating growmie :bigjoint:
No. You get an immediate increase in yield by adding CO2 even at any stage of growth other than germination and even at modest light levels.

Most inputs in the grow environment do not increase yield once they reach the "sufficiency" stage. Once a plant gets enough water, stop. Once a plant is in the sufficiency zone for nutrients, adding more nutrients is expensive and, eventually toxic.

Temperature has a direct impact photosynthesis which leads to an increase in yield. The best evidence based information is that yield increases up to 85±°, though secondary metabolite levels are seriously degraded once temperature exceed 78° in flower.

The two inputs that improve yield past the sufficiency level are CO2 and light. If you're in a grow environment where you can run CO2, add it. You'll get about a 30% increase in yield at 1200-1500 ppm of CO2.

Below is a graphic from the Chanrda paper (attached) that shows the change in net photosynthesis ("net P") at varying temperatures, light levels, and CO2 concentrations.

Chandra - Cannabis photosynthesis vs PPFD and Temp.png

A lot of people in the cannabis world looked assumed that because net P started to roll off at about 500µmol, that the indicated that there was no sense in growing cannabis at light levels much higher than 500-600µmol.

That was an erroneous assumption.

Research clearly indicates that, as long as light is the limiting factor, yield increases in an almost linear manner as light levels increase. The highest levels of light that I've seen reported as being used was 2000µmol and the researcher, Mitch Westmoreland, discussed below, stated that, even at that level, yield continued to increase.

Going back to your issue — if you can add CO2, do so because it's cheap and will give about a 30% increase in yield at any light level. Interestingly, if CO2 levels drop by 20%, yield drops by 40% or somesuch. Too little CO2 is brutal. (At the current level of 420ppm for CO2, we are still not far from the dreaded 280ppm below many crops fail.)

Most personal growers can't add CO2 so the next best thing is to turn up the dimmer and get as much light on your grow as your plants can handle. The light saturation point for cannabis, which is the light level above which adding more light does not increase photosynthesis, is considered to be 800-1000 and it is strain dependent as well as being limited by how well a grow is set up.

If you look at the lighting recommendations from many light vendors, those values that are recommended in flower will result in light levels in the 1k range. Vendors recommendations are conservative in veg and there's no need to be. I routinely grow my plants at high light levels (600µmol by day 30 and increasing to 1k shortly as soon as possible thereafter) and have very good outcomes.

The most concise source for some of this information is in the You Tube videos that Mitch Westmoreland, PhD candidate under Bruce Bugbee, released in late 2023 in which he shares some of the results of the research that he's done for his thesis. It's chock full of good information and really is a "how to" do help ensure that you get the most from your cannabis grow. Highly recommended.
 

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